I have a 2004 Cadillac it started to miss when your idling, a check engine light when on and it was #5 plug not firing so I changed the plugs in front 4 of them and also bought a coil pack and replaced that, but it still misses. What else can I check before thinking its a sticky Valve or internal engine problems.
View 6 RepliesOn occasion, my 2003 Cadillac Seville SLS will indicate that the car is low on oil and I should stop driving. When I checked the oil, it has never been low. Prior to this happening, the gas hand began to dance between 1/4 of a tank and a full tank. I am not sure if these issue are related or if I have two separate issues.
View 2 RepliesThe service engine soon sign came on awhile ago. I immediately took it to a garage and they said they can't find a code. My mechanic friend checked it and found a lean combustion condition. What could be causing this issue and what can I do about it. This yellow service engine soon light is driving my nuts!!!
View 16 RepliesI have a 2001 seville. The problem that I have is that the abs and traction icons come on the dash sporadically. When this happens the ventilation system shuts down. When the lights go out ,the ventilation system works fine. The dealership tells me that the two systems are not connected. They tell me that I need a new module. I would like to hear other diagnoses of the problem and repair.
View 1 RepliesI have 2002 Cadillac Seville SLS. From time the icons for the brake and abs do not go off after the car starts up. I'll be driving for anywhere between a few minutes to an hour or so and they well go off and an audio tone goes off. Sometimes they will not come back on for the remainder of my trip, at other times times they will appear again then go off again. There is no indication that there is anything wrong with the brakes. Also, when the icons go off and the heater is on the fan will accelerate. What may be going on?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1998 Cadillac Seville STS which has recently developed an intermittent stalling issue. Here are the details:
Happens occasionally when I'm slowing down or coasting, such as turning into a parking lot or going around a sharp entrance ramp-Has not yet happened during acceleration-No bucking or jerking while accelerating-No apparent warning that it is going to stall-Has happened once each of my last two trips
The first few times it happened my fuel level was pretty low, and one of the times I tried several times to restart it and it would start but die right away. I managed to get it started again, then I filled the tank and tested the fuel pressure at the rail, and I got 45-50 psi with the key turned but without the engine running.
After that time, I have not had any difficulty restarting it when it stalls. I held the valve in basically the same position that it is installed (meaning I didn't turn it upside down) and sprayed in the opening with throttle body cleaner (not carb cleaner). I then used a "pipe cleaner" to clean the inside, and I also worked the plunger up and down after I sprayed it.
I had a few "false alarms" in the past thinking it was fixed, so I wanted to wait until I was sure before posting. I now have to lose the habit of constantly glancing at the tach to see if it's about to stall. It would be interesting to know why cleaning the EGR valve fixed it.
I have a 2005 5.4 F-150. First off it came to me on a rollback because the owner tried to replace his plugs after he noticed it missing and of course broke one off. So after I extracted the plug from #8 cylinder and installed a new plug I cranked the truck and it was idling very rough and had a terrible miss around 1200rpm. I pulled the codes and got several misfire codes and ignition coil faults on #5,6 and 7 cylinder. Popped in 3 known good coils in these 3 cylinders with no difference.
On Mode 6 on my diagnostic software you could watch the misfire count steadily increase on #7 and every now and then there would be a single misfire on #5 and 6. It also had several codes for O2 sensors biased, stuck rich on that bank. Well since it had a brand new plug and coil, I popped an injector in #7 and havent had a single misfire on it since and it also started idling alot better and all the O2 codes went away. The problem I am having now is #5, 6 and now 8 will randomly misfire, sometimes build up a steady count on one of them, sometimes just skip around between them.
The truck has brand new plugs in all 8 and new coils on this bank also. The truck has 115,000 on it and does have some cam phaser noise on the bank causing the problem, but its not too terribly bad, I have heard alot worse. My problem is something on that bank only as the passenger side bank is fine. I am wanting to say cam phaser now since this is the side with the noise. I have changed them before but have just experienced the noise, never one running like this because of it. Possibly jumped time a little?
Bought my DTS with 46,000 miles, one year ago. I have driven 31,000 miles since. Once in a while, maybe once a month, at 65 or 70 mph it will just hiccup once and keep going. Just one quick miss. About 6 or 8 times in a year it has just died going 30mph or pulling into a driveway or up to stop sign. It does not sputter or miss, simply just dies instantly. So far it has always started right back up. The only code it has ever shown, was mass air flow sensor twice. It looks ok and I did clean it.
View 1 RepliesMy sons 04 f150 started to miss then quit on him then wouldn't start so he had a buddy pull it to a neighbors I went to check it out an hr later the first time i tried to start it it started ran for 2 sec then quit tried again and it would just crank no start went back 3 hrs later with my code reader no codes but he did say check eng was on when it quit first time so i try starting started up so i headed for home, it started running rough twice on way home but seem to come out of it both times.
View 1 RepliesApparently yesterday (no known reason) my sons truck started to develop a miss (so it feels like to me).
2005 f150 5.4 auto 215000km 4x4 stx. No specific cylinder codes. All general codes.
P1000
P1464
P1550
P1703
P1780
None of which I can see causing the miss. No check engine lite, no other codes. Not sure what to look at next. I am starting to disconnect the coil packs one at a time and see if I can pin down the cylinder.
My car is idling rough and the Service Engine light blinks on/off continuously. I ran the codes and they are P0301, P0401 and P1258. What this could be? I changed the plugs, wires and ignition coils about a year ago. Catalytic converter was replaced around the same time but the O2 sensors hasn't been changed. Could that be the cause?
View 1 RepliesI have a MK4 Golf 2003 1.9Tdi PD100 , the problem is that the engine seems to miss when idling , so the question really is how can I tell which cylinder is missing , it seems to do it every 10 seconds or so and the engine shakes slightly at the time as if it were missing ! .
I suppose it would be easier if the cylinder was missing all the time , then maybe I could crack open a line at a time ! , but can you do that on a PD engine !
I am having a problem with my 2006 Saab 9-3 Aero Combi Wagon w/130k miles. When idling, driving up hills, and accelerating to pass, the engine seems to miss multiple cylinders. I've had all spark plugs replaced within the last year, and all the cylinder coils were checked after bringing the car in for this problem (one was replaced). I took the car in yesterday to address this problem and the mechanic stated that he didn't know what to do. The check engine light is on, and the mechanic told me that the readout states that their might have been a problem with the gas cap, but they checked it out and it looked sound. Could this be a fuel pressure problem? spark plug wires?
View 5 RepliesMy brother in law drives a 97 Vr6 Passat (150K miles) that has started acting up. I'm a mechanic by trade, but he lives 800 miles away. The car started to miss and run erratically, and finally died. He took it to his regular mechanic and they installed a cam sensor. This worked, but it still ran poorly. They ran a compression check and say it has 180 psi in all holes on one bank, and 100 in all holes in the other. They are ready to condemn the engine.
View 2 RepliesQuestion, my truck started to have a miss under normal acceleration, when I really get on it, it clears up? I also noticed a bad sulfer smell at idle. Im thinking the cat is possibly plugged? Truck had 172000ish on it, and the cat is original. I did do a big tune up this past fall, new plugs, coil packs, air and fuel filter. Should I put a new cat on it? And a new oxygen sensor?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2000 Ls 3.9 V8 125,000 miles that started idling rough.I checked for codes and got p0171 (bank 1 lean), p0175 (bank 2 rich) and p0307(cylinder 7 misfire). I swapped cop and sparkplug from cylinder 7 to cylinder 5 and erased the codes.I ran the engine for a while and rechecked the codes to see if the misfire followed the cop and plug. They did not. I still get p0171,p0175 and p0307 (cylinder 7 misfire).
View 7 RepliesMY gc started cutting out a few weeks ago while idling in gear. I changed out the four plugs I could get the wires off. It's a v6. It started running better for a couple of days. I need to know of any way to get the stuck boot off. I also have a feeling there is something else wrong. Anything else that might be causing it to cut out. It has progressed to cutting out while going down the highway.
View 4 RepliesCar started idling funny and stalling. Finally wouldn't start. Changed crusty spark plugs, started up once, then stalled and wont start again. Checked for spark, no spark. Changed crust dist cap and rotor and ignition coil and still no spark. Checked ignitor activity and appears to be working.
What else is there? There's a little doofer next to the coil that looks like it has two wires come out of it, looks magnetic (has metal shavings on it, probably from old rotor)... Could the ignition switch be the problem? It cranks, but no spark.
Last week my wife's passat started idling a little off and then the check engine came on. So I connected my scanner to the car (not VAG-COM) and the two codes that were stored were P2015 and P2008. From what I can find online it has something to do with the flapper motor but the description of each code is:
P2015 - Intake manifold runner position
P2008 - Intake manifold runner control circuit
I have a 1997 volvo 850 that has started intermittently stalling. It usually happens when i'm idling, like at a stop sign or traffic light, but recently it did it on the freeway. I have taken it 6 times to the mechanic (5 times to one and finally having learned my lesson the last time to a new one) and they say it is one of 4 things, but can't figure out which of those 4 things it is until it stalls on them. which it hasn't done. it acts perfectly when at the mechanic's and then they always give it back to me, only for it to happen again. the last time the car ran beautifully for 6 weeks before stalling out on me again....... oh, and once they replaced my fuel pump which seemed to work for a while.
View 2 Replies2002 santafe 4x4 v6. about week earlier I had a cel for temp sensor voltage high. so I replaced it. then... my power steering cooling loop by radiator started to leak from corrosion and for some reason my coolant gauge was reading about a needle with from the red. (maybe from getting ps fluid on it? idk) so I went to investigate why it was leaking and I thought the cooling loop pluged into a cooler on radiator so I removed my lower front engine mound and motor mount by the timing belt so I could raise engine up a2" to get a better look. when I saw it was just a loop and that was my leak I ordered replacement. It came in I swapped it out. Pretty easy . Decided to do a radiator flush and replace thermostat. Why I was at it. I drained radiator and took the old thermostat out. was gonna leave it out for the flush to cycle better. When I started it up it was idling around 4k rpms. I figured it might be because of thermostat so I put the new one in.
Started it up and same thing.... I check all the vac lines I could find all were tight. I unplugged them one at a time at throttle body/intake tube and blocked it off with my finger and it was still idling high. It also started surging. going from 2k to 4k and going back and forth. I checked the maf and it was clean as a whistle. No leaks on intake pipe. If I put my hand over maf it sucks the tube towards the throttle body. no air leaks anywhere. Took off iac valve its clean. I plugged the holes where it is on tb and started it up and no change in what its doing. also the throttle body flap is closed the hole time. Iac seems to be properly opening and closing. when I watched it after I unbolted it. I sprayed brake cleaner all over manifold to check for air leaks no change in high idle. I also took off the evap valve hose to tb and plugged it at tbody and no success.
I checked my sensor connectors and there tight and no wires are pulled out. I have yet to check cam sensor connection. (does it have a cam sensor?) I unplugged battery over night. this morning it ran at 2k rpm for two mins then surged to 4k. could it be my throttle position sensor? is there a way I can check with multi meter? Ive done a lot of research and it seems like a common problem with Hyundai but people don't leave a what fixed it post after they figure it out. they just leave the threads hanging. I hope I can figure this out.
When I get home tonight Ill plug where the brake booster vac line goes in. I looked at the hose and it was super tight and didn't seem to be leaking but maybe booster is idk. Ill also check wires to all 02 sensors. but if o2 sensor wire was broke wouldn't it throw a cel? Also no check engine light. but id did have an abs light come on the other day. was thinking maybe an abs sensor at the wheel but I am not sure. That light was on for a week before this issue started. It was never revving up until I started working on the other issues from my research I am guessing throttle position sensor. I am going to multimeter it tonight.