Cadillac - Dts :: Tires Keep Losing Air
Dec 26, 2012
I own a 2006 Cadillac DTS. In May 2012, I purchased four Tiger Paw tires from local dealership. Dealer filled them with Nitrogen. The tires were constantly losing air (about 1/2 lb/day). I went back to the dealership many times and they refilled the tires, but I was never given an adequate explanation as to why the tires kept losing air. I then went to a local repair shop and was told tags were left on the tires. After removal of the tags, two of the four tires are better. Other two still lose approximately 1/2 lb/day. I went back to the car dealership again and now I am being told there is corrosion on the wheels and that is the reason for the air loss. (They are insisting the corrosion was not there 7 months ago when I purchased the tires). They want to remove the corrosion. Is there anything else to consider concerning the continual loss of air pressure?
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Was driving one day, and when I came to a stop sign, the car just died.. I couldn't start it up, so I pushed it to the side of the road.. I tried to turn the key again, and it fired right up... No issues for about a week, but then I came outside one morning, and the car was completely dead. No interior lights, dash wouldn't light up, nothing. (no cranking noise when you try to turn the key) I assumed it was because the battery was old, and the car had just been sitting there for about a week without being started up. I was about to give it a jump, but when I opened the door, the lights came on. I put the key in the ignition, the dash lit up, and the car fired right up.. No issues for about a week, until again, came outside, car was completely dead..
I used my other car to run up to the store, and when I came back, decided I would try to start up the DeVille again. Randomly, upon opening the door, the cabin lights lit up, and sure enough, car fired right up... no one had touched the car while I was gone.. I drove the car up to a shop near my house, where they tested the battery, which tested good. Terminals are all clean, and he made note that the ground connection to the car was also firm and clean. He offered to run a diagnostic the following Tuesday for $125. I returned home, drove the car once more over the weekend, but when I went to start the car Monday, it was again, completely dead. It's been over a week now, and I haven't been fortunate enough to get it to start. I again tried this morning in hopes that I would get lucky, but it's still completely dead.
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I have a 2005 Cadillac CTS with 23k miles. It was my grandmothers car and is in excellent shape. It has had regular service and has had no mechanical problems. I have noticed recently that there is a humming noise that corresponds with the rotation of the tires. It seems to be coming from the left side and is almost unnoticeable at slow speeds but around 55-60 mph it is very noticeable. I had the wheels rotated with the last oil change and it seemed to stay the same, although the left rear tire is now on the left front. That tire loses pressure and I check it weekly. It's always a few pounds low. Could a bad tire be the cause of the noise? There is no vibration in the steering wheel and it doesn't get louder when I turn the wheel to one side of the other like a wheel bearing might.
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On a front wheel Cadillac (2011) DTS, can I use only two snow tires--installed in the front?? These cars have stablization systems which are profound. I never had a problem with the rear end swinging out in my 2005 Sedan de ville. It looks to me as if the tire dealers just want to sell more tires, as they all suggest 4 snow tires. Aren't the rear tires just "along for the ride?" They have no torque.
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I just picked up a 1991 Buick Regal for a good deal, but already the repair costs to get this thing up to speed are mounting :
Right now I'm dealing with all four tires losing pressure. The 24 year old car still has its original wheels (15 inch aluminum) and I'm assuming that they are losing pressure at the seal. The tires are only about a year old and the stems look okay, so do you think I'm on the right track?
There is one strange part to all of this: The vehicle with its equipped tires is rated at 30 PSI and if I fill them to 30 they are all down about five pounds within a few hours or after a drive. However, they do not lose more than or much more than 5 PSI. The front tires lose more air and lose it faster, but the lowest I've seen them is 23. Is only losing a few pounds of air and not going flat evidence of a seal leak or am I in the twilight zone?
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I just bought a used 2009 VW GTI which is a lovely car as you can see from this picture:[URl]. As you can also see from that picture I live in one of the many snowy states. The roads now resemble the lunar surface except with deeper craters and potholes. When I bought the car, I was stupid enough to be talked into a $500 5 year warranty. Or was I? I've driven the car for almost a month and have replaced 2 tires due to pothole damage. At this rate, I'm way ahead on the warranty. The car has 18" low profile tires which seem sensitive to being banged into the rim of potholes. Is there something about my driving that's causing this issue? I don't really speed and the last blowout happened at around 30mph. Is this something I just have to live with? Can I replace the tires w/ normal tires?
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I purchased a used 2003 Echo last week. The all season tires are on 15 inch rims. I would like to buy snow tires for this car. The question is - snow tires on 15 in rims or snow tires on 14 in rims? I understand that 15 inch rims was an option selected on the original purchase. Without this option, the car would have had 14 inch rims.
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The first start when I leave the garage works fine while the car is cold, but after several stops each time I try to start the car, I have to turn the key 2-6 times, then it starts. Had battery checked & it's ok and I hook safety belt prior to starting and also new starter was installed 3 mos. ago.
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On occasion, my 2003 Cadillac Seville SLS will indicate that the car is low on oil and I should stop driving. When I checked the oil, it has never been low. Prior to this happening, the gas hand began to dance between 1/4 of a tank and a full tank. I am not sure if these issue are related or if I have two separate issues.
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I have replaced the battery, and start relay. Sometimes it starts like a new car. Other times nothing. All the lights and radio work, no sound from engine when you turn the key. 2001 Cadillac STS...
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I am having an issue with my car not starting due to the alarm i see you can bypass but i was wondering if i have an aftermarket alarm installed would that take care of the problem.
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My 2006 Cadillac misfires when I attempt to accelerate. My mechanic doesn't know what to do?
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About once each summer on a hot day, my Cadillac Catera won't restart until it cools for 15-20 minutes. I turn the key and the dash idiot lights come on but the starter does nothing. It only happens rarely and only on a hot day.
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93 fleetwood - bought new - sounds like water sloshing around behine the radio in the a/c ducts. also when fan is on, it blows out fog, like moisture in vents/ducts. is this a water drain/hole plugged up allowing water to flow where it isn't suppose to. i can picture water flowing out of the vents in a heavy rain.
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At times when going to start our 1998 Caddy you can turn the key and ..... nothing happens, no clicking ... nothing. Everything else works but it is like you are not even turning the key. Is there a weak spot on these cars?
I am familiar with solenoid/starter issues but this seems a bit different for some reason.
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I have a 2006 CTS, 3.6. 128k miles. Always changed the oil myself at 3,000 miles religiously. A few months ago, the car began to "jump" or hesitate when accellerator pushed. Not right away, but after car reached about 30 mph. Again when on it reached about60 mph on highway. It cruises fine, but if you push it, it stutters a bit and the check engine light flashes, Then regains it's composure and away it goes. I noticed that when I changed the oil, the filter is filthy, filthy. Always has been. Use the right oil and all.
Now, I take it to a local national automotive chain and they tell me it is misfiring on #6 and needs plugs, coils and the works. So I had them do it. The car still jumps at same intervals. So i take it back and now it is misfiring on ALL plugs ( or so the computer says). Now the mechanic tells me that the timing chains are all buggered up and the engine needs to be replaced. So I seek another it to another garage and they say that they see the same codes, but don't think it is in need of new engine. They would like to keep it anid see if they can find the problem. A week passes and they can't diagnose the problem.
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I own a 2009 Cadillac Escalade (no I don't write rap tunes) and for the past 5 years it has been an excellent vehicle to drive. It still is, but under certain conditions I am experiencing a shudder which lowers the confidence that I usually have in my vehicle. Specifically, when I am climbing a hill and the transmission is in a higher gear, say 4th and the RPMs are relatively low, say 1800, I feel a shudder as the car goes up the hill. When I let my foot off the gas the shudder stops. If I manually shift into a lower gear and raise the RPMs, the engine responds with power galore and I climb the hill without any effort and without any shudder (most of the time). The engine is smooth and is not sputtering when this shudder happens. I do not hear any unusual sounds under the car when this happens.
I took it to the GM dealer and they did all they could (analyzed the car for codes, monitored fuel flow rates, searched for GM bulletins, etc) but their response was "we experienced the shudder but cannot find the issue - bring it back when it gets worse". I read that BG44K will do a good job of cleaning the fuel system in the engine so I tried that but nothing changed. I have about 50K miles on the car and did my 50K maintenance just before a cross-country trip; on the way back from this long trip is when this issue started. The 50K maintenance included changing the transmission fluid and cleaning the filter (not replacing it), changing the differential oil, the transfer case oil, engine oil and filter, inspecting the vehicle, etc. I will continue to drive the vehicle and will bring it back to the dealer if it gets worse, but I'm wondering what I'm supposed to do if it never does and I continually experience this shudder. Or what happens if it gets worse all of a sudden and I'm unable to drive the car up a hill at all?
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The service engine soon sign came on awhile ago. I immediately took it to a garage and they said they can't find a code. My mechanic friend checked it and found a lean combustion condition. What could be causing this issue and what can I do about it. This yellow service engine soon light is driving my nuts!!!
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I have a 1993 Cadillac STS which I just purchased with low miles and clean carfax. Local car. Everything works like a dream and drives beautiful. All of the sudden it just shuts off ()Northstar engine() and I have to place it in park and start it again. It usually just happens on slow traffic. No engine service light so I can't get the auto shop to get me an error code. What it might be?
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I have a 1992 Cadillac DeVille with 25,000 miles on it. It’s never been driven in the winter and garaged when not being driven.Last year, it was running rough, so I took it to the dealer. They changed the spark plugs and wires. There seemed to be some improvement after that. After about 500 miles, it started to rn rough again. I returned to the dealer who changed the spark plugs again and replaced two of the fuel injectors. Still no improvement. A few hundred miles later, I took it to a local mechanic. He replaced four more fuel injectors and there seemed to be some improvement.After another few hundred miles, the engine started to run rough again, the fuel dropped down from about 20 mpg to 10 mpg, and it stalls at traffic stops or if the brake is applied. After 30 minutes of idling it will use 5 gallons of gas. There are no strange odors or visible leakage.
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fan does not run even when temp is at 210
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