Cadillac - Cts :: 2002 - Stalling At Different Times / No Lights
Oct 16, 2012
My Caddy 2002 keeps stalling at different times. This last time (Saturday night) I was on the freeway in the middle of 10 lanes of traffic, dark and the car just died. No lights; no power, nothing. I managed to get to the side of the road and was able to restart it again. This has happened about 10 times in the last 5 years and I have paid to have it repaired about 4 times paying about 340 each time. At first they said it was sensors and now they say it is the ignition. Very frustrating and scary on the freeway.
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I have a 1992 Cadillac Brougham Hearse (Eagle Coach Co.) with a 305 V-8 that I’ve been having the following problem with. It had gotten to where it would start up, run at idle for 10 to 15 minutes and start cutting out, sputter and then die and would not restart afterwards. The next day, go out, starts right up and same thing after idling 10-15 minutes, cuts out and dies. So, I immediately think, fuel filter and or fuel pump! So, I replace the in tank fuel pump, sending unit and the in line fuel filter. Results remained the same. I’ve even swapped out the coil, ignition control module (ICM), starter and fuel pump relays from a like car and am still having the same results. Fuel gauge is reading between ¾ and ½ tank of fuel. Wondering what to look at next?
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I have a 1998 Cadillac Seville STS which has recently developed an intermittent stalling issue. Here are the details:
Happens occasionally when I'm slowing down or coasting, such as turning into a parking lot or going around a sharp entrance ramp-Has not yet happened during acceleration-No bucking or jerking while accelerating-No apparent warning that it is going to stall-Has happened once each of my last two trips
The first few times it happened my fuel level was pretty low, and one of the times I tried several times to restart it and it would start but die right away. I managed to get it started again, then I filled the tank and tested the fuel pressure at the rail, and I got 45-50 psi with the key turned but without the engine running.
After that time, I have not had any difficulty restarting it when it stalls. I held the valve in basically the same position that it is installed (meaning I didn't turn it upside down) and sprayed in the opening with throttle body cleaner (not carb cleaner). I then used a "pipe cleaner" to clean the inside, and I also worked the plunger up and down after I sprayed it.
I had a few "false alarms" in the past thinking it was fixed, so I wanted to wait until I was sure before posting. I now have to lose the habit of constantly glancing at the tach to see if it's about to stall. It would be interesting to know why cleaning the EGR valve fixed it.
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My Brother-in-law recently lent us his 1995 Toyota Sienna which had 196,000 miles. After returning it, he asked if we had any problems with it. We questioned why he thought we would have and he said that the vehicle was stalling at various times when the idle was low - i.e. at a stop light etc. This happened intermittently and his mechanic could not diagnose the issue. Other than this, the vehicle operates fine.
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my 1997 town and country van with the 3.8 liter engine keeps stalling at unpredictable times. sometimes when it is cold first thing in the morning, other times when fully warmed up at a stop light and sometimes on the interstate at 70 mph. The tach drops to zero, the speedometer drops to zero, the check engine light blinks on and then back off, the computer doesn't record any error codes. it causes the cruise control to drop out while on the hiway. the engine always starts right back up, for how long, its unpredictable. Mechanics have replaced the three engine sensors twice, checked and cleaned wiring contacts at sensors and engine computer. And also the Knock sensor has already been disconnected per a chrysler bulletin. At highway speeds the engine usually bucks and then keeps running, but sometimes dies.
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I own an 87 Buick Lesabre Limited Coupe [URL] ..... I have driven it for the past 6 years with no major problems, but just now it has begun to have a stalling problem. The engine just shuts off at random times. Doesn't matter if you're at a red light or driving in traffic. She will stall, then after 5 minutes will start up again, and stall again. So, I took to it to my mechanic & he changed the ignition module & mass air sensor. I picked it up, and the 'Service Engine Soon' light went on, and then she stalled a few minutes later.
So, I drove her back to the shop (stalling several times on the way), and my mechanic changed the crank position sensor, and she still died. He read the trouble code 42, so he changed the ignition module again. I picked her up yesterday, and she made it home without stalling, but the 'Service Engine Soon' light still goes on after 5 minutes of idling, which leads me to believe that the problem lies somewhere else. Could it be an electrical problem (wiring, fuses, computer) that is causing the 'service engine soon' light to go on & the car to shut off? What else could it be?
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I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport, 4.0L (6 cylinder) that has 128,000 miles on it. Within the last two months it has started lurching 1 to 3 times per week. It only lurches once but always when the engine is hot and when accelerating. The engine light does not come on. It also loses power for several seconds at other times. Lastly, it has stalled two times in three weeks when I am coming to a stop. The spark plugs and air filter were changed last week. The injectors were also cleaned.
I do not have the skills to fix it and am taking it to the dealership which is very expensive - thus the money drain. Any thoughts on what might be going on? Or is it better to just cut my losses and look for another car. I would really like to keep this car for another year because I am in graduate school but am not willing to continue with the money drain.
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2004 Explorer 4WD XLT 4.0 6cyl - Mileage is 117,000 - Check Engine Light came on - Pulled the code of PO193. Had the Fuel Pressure Sensor changed, Plugs and wires and check engine light is still on after being re-set several times? Car is stalling at times when going from park to drive - It seems to idle ok in park but, when in drive at a red light, the tac will bounce a little and it seems like it's not getting enough fuel and will stall out at anytime. Is there a fuel filer that can be changed? Should I have the fuel injection checked and cleaned along with a fuel filter. Seems to be getting poor gas mileage.
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We have a 2002 Cadillac Eldorado that started filling up with water. There is literally inches of standing water on the floor, condensation on all the windows, and all the upholstery is soggy. I've vacuumed it out and left the doors open to try to aid in airing/drying it out, but when I go back in an hour the water has accumulated on the floor again.
My husband drilled a few holes in the floor to allow the water to drain out, and we removed the back seat to see if we could find where the water was coming from. The water accumulates in the seat compartment where the seat was removed, and though the holes in the floor drain the water somewhat, it still collects there. Now there is mold/mildew starting to develop and I've used a bleach water solution to try to arrest that, but I'm really getting sick of dealing with this car.
He says we can't sell it until we get another 8000 miles out of it, but we can't drive it when it's all wet like this, and he doesn't want to put any more money into it--
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The check coolant message comes on my message center on my 2002 Caddy Deville. I have checked this and there is plenty of coolant. Can this be repaired without removing and installing a new coolant overflow tank?
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2005 Escalade-rear tail lights-water in tail assembly. Bulbs blew. Replaced bulbs. Will not come on when I turn on headlights. They do come on when you depress the brakes and when you use the hazards or signals.
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My A/C is blowing Cold on the drivers side and very hot on the passenger side. I need to know if it could only be the Right Actuator or if it could be that or the temp control module or low refrigerant or low coolant. I am Disabled and need to know how to track it down before i order an actuator.
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I recently bought a 2002 VW Passat 2 weeks ago. I love the car and the drive, but the acceleration is excellent at times, and very slow at times. Also the car gives me a stutter step every once in a while while at low speeds....I bought the car in Mass so I have 13 days left for the dealer warranty. What it is?
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My '96 V8 seems to be inhabited by ghosts. These ghosts make their presence known by illuminating the brake lights at odd times. On several occasions during the last (very cold) few weeks, I have opened the garage to find the brake lights on. I open the door....look back....and they stay on. I sit down....look back....and they are off.
A few moments ago I started up to bed, and as I was turning off lights in the house, I saw an creepy red glow out by the garages. I had left the Phaeton out as it is dirty, and I am lazy. This time I had to tap the brake pedal to get the lights off.
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My 2002 4.8L Silverado recently started having this intermittent starting problem.
A few days ago I got in to start it, turned the key and nothing happened. Lights, radio and power locks all were working fine but engine would not crank or turn over. Turned the key off and on a few times and then the truck started fine.
It started fine for about 3 days. Then got in to start it the next day and this happened again. Turn the key and nothing. Lights, power locks, radio all working ok. Turned the key off and on multiple times but still nothing. So I cleaned the battery cable connections and fully charged the battery, even though it checked out ok. Tried it again and same thing was happening.
This time I looked at the ignition and starting relays under the hood in the electrical box. I swapped a few of them around, tried to start it each time and still nothing.
So I had the vehicle towed to the dealership to be checked. The next day the service man calls me to tell me when they went to check it, the truck is starting fine.
I am not sure if this is a starter problem, ignition switch problem or maybe the computer. The thing is, I can't drive it like this because it is no longer reliable.
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My 2002 explorer, 4.0l engine. My 4x4 light on the dash blinks 10 times and I've found that sometimes the 4 wheel drive locks in. When i pull into a parking space on dry road I can feel the front of the truck Jerking when trying to park. I hit the 4x4 auto button on the dash a couple of times and the 4 x 4 will disengage. While driving on dry road yesterday the 4x4 light started blinking and I felt the 4x4 slam in. The 4x4 light still blinks and I can't disengage the 4 x 4 this time. The truck has 140,000 miles on it. I'm thinking its the 4x4 control module but I'm not sure.
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2003 Honda Accord Coupe V6 .. My car has been making a weird sound lately. After I start the car and get it up to about 10mph it makes a "pumping" sound 4 times and the ABS, TCS, and caution lights come ON. Sometimes after I stop and start again it makes the noise again and then the three warning lights go OFF. The sound is noticeable but if the radio is on you can barely hear it. It is not louder or more quiet with the windows down.
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My 2002 Toyota Camry XLE keeps stalling when the car is idling. I recently replaced the battery and tested the alternator and they are both fine. What could be causing the stalling?
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My car (2002 Camry, 65K Miles) stalls when I take foot off the gas pedal, this starter four days ago then it worked fine couple days later and the problem is back again. I did some research and cleaned throttle body, do I need to clean or replace IAC valve and EGR valve?
I also read on the forum to check the vaccum hoses for leaks, looking for more info on location fo the vacuum hoses and how to clean or replace them?
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My 2002 Honda CRV has had occasional problems starting over the years i.e. takes 2 times to start engine. But lately it is struggling more to start i.e., engine turns over but you can hear it struggling to start i.e. sounds like dead battery but in fact battery is brand new. Now it can take 3 turns to start and this morning it took 5 tries. The problem is no mechanic can find out what is wrong i.e. starter, fuel line, electrical or what? because it always starts when in the shop. I have even taken it to the Honda dealer and they could not find the problem. This is a random problem but seems to be getting worse and happening more often. I am worried I will be stuck somewhere when the car does not start AT ALL one day.
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My 02 f150 Xl intermittently chimes 4 times while running. No door ajar light, no dome light on, no seatbelt light lit.. All these lights work as expected. What I am hearing and how to get it to stop?
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