About once each summer on a hot day, my Cadillac Catera won't restart until it cools for 15-20 minutes. I turn the key and the dash idiot lights come on but the starter does nothing. It only happens rarely and only on a hot day.
View 1 RepliesPassat B6, 2009 TDI CR, 140 bhp, DSG.
Having an issue that's bugging me. all cold starts are fine. However, if I drive a short distance then try to restart the engine cranks, sounds like it catches but stalls.
It takes 2-4 retries to get it going, i'm not releasing the key too early as this happens even when I hold the key in.
I've not been able to get a VAG-COM on it yet but would like to know whether this is likely to be something simple or, if it's time to sell the car?
The service engine soon sign came on awhile ago. I immediately took it to a garage and they said they can't find a code. My mechanic friend checked it and found a lean combustion condition. What could be causing this issue and what can I do about it. This yellow service engine soon light is driving my nuts!!!
View 16 RepliesI have a 1993 Cadillac STS which I just purchased with low miles and clean carfax. Local car. Everything works like a dream and drives beautiful. All of the sudden it just shuts off ()Northstar engine() and I have to place it in park and start it again. It usually just happens on slow traffic. No engine service light so I can't get the auto shop to get me an error code. What it might be?
View 16 Repliesfan does not run even when temp is at 210
View 2 RepliesRecently my check engine light came on on my 98 Cadillac Deville. I went to Autozone and got a free engine diagnostic and was given a printout of a bunch of stuff I did not understand, the technician told me it was just an issue with the light, and it could be fixed with unhooking the black end of my battery for 10m. Just a little bit ago, i popped the hood, and touched the black end of the battery to see how i could unplug it. When i touched it I heard a click and now there is no power to my car. Every time i jiggle the negative end I hear a click from the right side of the engine and nothing happens. I did not even unhook the battery.
View 1 RepliesI have changed radiator cap & there is no coolant circulating even when at 199. But you can remove cap it is luke warm.
View 2 RepliesOK--2001.5 1.8t Tip, 85k, nothing but Mobil1 since day one religiously. At around 81k miles the t/belt tensioner seized & let the belt jump and bend a few valves. Had VW do the repair under the p.t. warranty. Engine now runs very well again except there is a knock noise that sounds an awful lot like a crank or rod bearing. The noise is worse with the engine fully warmed up and in drive or reverse. Took it back to VW, they said it's a bearing in the a/c compressor. Sounded like B.S. to me, since the noise is no different with or without the a/c on. I picked up the car & removed the a/c belt at home & found the noise was exactly the same. I've about had it with VW on this issue. Been back 3 times with the noise complaint, & the noise is getting worse!!
View 1 RepliesI have a 92 Deville. I drove a pretty good distance today and on the way home stopped at the store and left the car on in the parking lot. I got in and the engine died as I tried to pull out of the lot. When I try to start the car all the lights come on but nothing happens, no clicks or anything. Lights don't even go dim. Could this be the alternator? I know that the starter suddenly dying won't cut off the engine like that. Everything seemed fine before idk what gave out?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 Cadillac Deville with about 120,000 miles on it. The SES light came on and I had some maintenance done at STS. The light came back on the night I picked it up. I took it back the next day, they said it was related to the transmission and they do not do transmission repairs. They cleared the light and said if it came back on they could flush the transmission and maybe that would take care of the problem or they suggested I should take it to a transmission repair shop. The error codes are p0741 & p1860. Once in a while at the beginning of a drive I experience a sluggish acceleration, it does not last long( a second or 2) and then runs fine for the remainder of the drive.
View 6 RepliesThe check coolant message comes on my message center on my 2002 Caddy Deville. I have checked this and there is plenty of coolant. Can this be repaired without removing and installing a new coolant overflow tank?
View 4 RepliesMy car is idling rough and the Service Engine light blinks on/off continuously. I ran the codes and they are P0301, P0401 and P1258. What this could be? I changed the plugs, wires and ignition coils about a year ago. Catalytic converter was replaced around the same time but the O2 sensors hasn't been changed. Could that be the cause?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 Escalade that I have maintained since day 1. Occasionally when driving the car it will say system disability and reduced engine power, which drops the speed to 20 and I can give all the gas I want it will not go. Happening on and off for 5 months. I can shut it on and off a couple times and it will go back to normal. Have taken it in a couple times to dealer and they have drove it and drove it and it behaves. They believe it is the Throttle body and sensor. But for the price of it, just replace the fuel pump 2 weeks ago, they suggest to see it happening to give me a 100% diagnosis. For now they believe it is that. Should I fix it or wait till it happens and slowly putt into the dealership.
View 4 RepliesMy 2004 Cadillac CTS 3.6L started running rough, check engine light flashed on and off. Codes P0300 and P0303. The car has about 119000 miles. Could this just be the plugs? The car has been running fine up to today.
View 2 RepliesMy car started overheating and when I got under the hood I noticed that one of the belts was torn up pretty good. I'm guessing that this belt runs the fans or something. I am wondering what the name of this belt is and how hard it would be to replace?
The picture looks too small to be able to see it, but it's the belt on the right side of the engine block, next to the oil dipstick. The second picture loaded upside down.
1995 Cadillac DeVille 4.9 L Check engine soon light comes on, battery voltage high. When I increase speed the head lamps get brighter when I decrease speed the head lamps get dimmer. I changed the alternator because that's what a mechanic said I needed but I still have the problen battery voltage high. Will this damage the battery or other components? Should I stop driving the car.
View 5 RepliesMy 1999 escort 2.0L sohc is having idle issues. It idles perfectly after a cold start. When the engine warms up, the engine starts to lope, and often dies. I've searched for leaks and replaced parts that are the most obvious possible reasons. Also replaced some parts that were questionable. The head was cracked and the gasket blown. It was obviously like that for quite some time. There was only a leak between the coolant and cylinder.
So far I've replaced: fuel pump, fuel filter, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump(trashed), thermostat, cts, radiator fan switch, head w/gasket, radiator cap, iac valve, ccrm, pcm/ecu, tps, cleaned maf sensor, cleaned intake, cleaned injectors, new injector o-rings, spark plugs, coil, checked and cleaned pcv valve. Knock sensor is ordered, and O2 sensor will be installed soon.
The loping goes away with the headlight and/or A/C on. The car previously would overheat without the cooling fan switching on, hence the cooling parts being replaced.
With about 32K miles, I started getting a knock in the morning that would go away when warmed up. When I took the car in for service, I mentioned it and the service adviser said, it sounds like the timing chain tensioner leaking down, we have seen that.
Well it was not the tensioners, I was informed that, it was low oil pressure that did NOT trigger the oil light or any warnings, and my main bearings and a rod bearing were shot, it seems that the oil pump was not putting out as it should. Supposedly, it was only putting out 10 PSI. Oddly enough once the engine warmed up, there was no lifter/tappet noise that would indicate low oil pressure that I have experienced in the past with other engines.
The oil has been changed on time, the oil was clean, and the engine was not abused. Other than this the car ran fine. So the short block was replaced under warranty. This is a 3.5 V6.
This is quite disturbing, that some type of low oil pressure message or idiot light was not flashing on my dash. I have seen oil pumps from other manufacturers produce low oil pressure if the pressure relieve valve was stuck open.
On my 94 Honda Del Sol. When I start up and the engine is cold, it runs fine. Soon, after it warms up, low rpm acceleration is rough until it hits about 2500 rpm. then it gets smooth. If I accelerate slowly during this period, it can be ok. If i open it up at higher rpm., it runs great.
View 4 RepliesAbout a week and a half ago I took my 2008 ISF to Lexus to have them check out the ticking noise. My car has 63K miles on it and I notice the ticking noise after it is fully warmed up. I normally have just been driving it in Sport-Manual too. The sound seems to come from the driver's side fender well area and I hear it best when it is in drive in my garage or at a drive thru.
At first Lexus couldn't duplicate the sound even after driving the car. So I went to the dealership and drove the car about 10 mins for them to hear. The service advisor and a technician heard it this time. They had to call the regional Field Technical Service rep for direction on how to proceed. The FTS person recommend swapping the driver's side high pressure fuel pump to the passenger side to see if the noise followed the pump. I guess they've had problems in the past with the high pressure pumps on the LS models. I again went down to the dealer to drive the car and the noise stayed on the driver's side.
I know this issue has been posted and discussed multiple times on early Gen 3 Prius'. That said, I don't see much on it regarding the Prius v ( lowercase v for the Prius v wagon, not an uppercase ). There is also of course a TSB for earlier Prius' that had the issue.
I can readily replicate the issue in that almost every time I 'think' it may happen the next time I start the vehicle, it does in fact do so.
If I move the vehicle from the garage to the driveway or around in the driveway to clear snow, the ICE fires for a few seconds then I shut it off as the car is where I need it. Upon the next ICE start, there is a horrible knocking under the hood somewhere. Different from the previous messages and the TSB itself is that I never get an error code or MIL.
I'm to the point where if I move the car, I let it warm up completely. I figure I'm better off wasting fuel than subjecting my Prius to whatever horrible thing is happening under the hood if I don't.