My car occasionally locks me out! When I lock the car using the driver's side automatic lock, it works fine, but then it won't let me back in. My repair shop says the left-side locking mechanism needs to be replaced but they can't get the part. The car is a 1992 Cadillac Brougham that I've had since new. The car is in great shape and runs like a top.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1992 Cadillac Brougham Hearse (Eagle Coach Co.) with a 305 V-8 that I’ve been having the following problem with. It had gotten to where it would start up, run at idle for 10 to 15 minutes and start cutting out, sputter and then die and would not restart afterwards. The next day, go out, starts right up and same thing after idling 10-15 minutes, cuts out and dies. So, I immediately think, fuel filter and or fuel pump! So, I replace the in tank fuel pump, sending unit and the in line fuel filter. Results remained the same. I’ve even swapped out the coil, ignition control module (ICM), starter and fuel pump relays from a like car and am still having the same results. Fuel gauge is reading between ¾ and ½ tank of fuel. Wondering what to look at next?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1985 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham. I bought it from someone who had it sitting for a couple years and the fuel pump needed replaced, no problem. It ran fine for about 2 weeks after getting it fixed, then it started giving me problems. The transmission seemed to be having issues shifting gears at lower speeds, but acted fine once I got up to 55+. The mileage dropped from 16 mpg to 4 mpg. It started stalling out whenever my foot wasn't on the gas, and then finally it quit running altogether.
I had a mechanically inclined family member take a look and he said it seemed to be starving for gas but other than that he had no idea, it tries to start but can't turn over. In the past year I have had the fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, and fuel injectors replaced but I'm not sure what else to look at. I'm hoping it isn't the transmission, we all know how expensive those are.
My 2011 Prius apparently had a broken lock actuator on the driver's door, and knowing that the dealer would charge me over $500 for installation of a new actuator, I decided to order a new $5 motor off of ebay, and change the little motor inside the actuator myself. Everything was going fine until I put everything back together, and gave it a try. Now my door won't unlock at all. All of the other doors work fine. I've tried the little key from the keyfob, and turning it kinda feels mushy. My guess is that something is wrong with my re-installation of the cables.
View 1 Replies1999 Suburban
Although the key slides into the lock easily, it's a bear to turn the key left and right. I tried squirting some graphite into the key hole and working it with the key but that didn't do much if anything.
Is there a way to lube the internals that a homeowner--not mechanic--can do?
What tips or gotchas do I need to watch out for when replacing the driver door lock mechanism with a used one from the junkyard (assume working well)?
Is it difficult to sync the unit with the remote or is it as easy as inserting the key in the lock and turning it both directions like I've read?
What's up with those stupid plastic compression pins that hold the lock mechanism to the inner door skin? Those things are terrible! I tried using some small 10mm bolts instead but it totally screwed up the alignment of the door handle
Are those little plastic things one time use, like I'm thinking? Why can't my local dealer get me replacement ones?
I have a persistent prob with the lock mechanism on the rear door of my mk4 golf, I don't suppose there is a picture tutorial on this subject. I have looked but can only find for the front door.
View 1 RepliesCan I disable the automatic door lock mechanism? Maybe pull a fuse? All of a sudden the locks start locking and unlocking over and over and the lights dim. I would like to disable the automatic and use the key to lock and unlock the doors. It is a 2002, F-250-Super Duty 4x4 SuperCab.
View 5 RepliesSo, I got my explorer about 3 months ago and it has never locked, the door ajar light was always on and I fixed that by using some WD-40.
Now that the door light is off, the explorer beeps once when i lock it using the key fob but it doesn't actually lock. When I use the lock switch in the rear (by the spare wheel tools) it will lock and unlock. The driver's door lock switch won't lock or unlock, the passenger will unlock but won't lock.
Stock alarm system.
I just purchased an '02 Camry. All doors lock with remote and interior door lock buttons. Only driver door unlocks with remote and door lock buttons. I have seen other posts with this issue, but not a clear solution.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 4 door Sonata, and the Driver door power door lock does not always function. It make a noise like it is working, but most of the time it does not lock or unlock the door. The other doors work fine, and I need to manually lock and unlock the driver door with the key. I'm told that the problem is probably the door lock motor. Looking for some detailed instructions on how to remove and replace this motor?
View 4 RepliesI do have an Accent 2002 automatic 1,6 L. All doors have a power lock door motor EXCEPT driver door. The only way to lock or unlock ALL doors is with the key.
If I unlock the driver door, all door unlock. I know I have to add a motor to the mechanism in the driver door, but I don't know what to add exactly...
I own a 2005 prius that I purchased used this year. This morning I had my first issue. I turned on the car and it gave me the following error message:
"Transmission p lock mechanism is abnormal. Park your car in a flat place and apply parking brake completely."
The parking break wasn't on and I was already parked in a basically flat parking space. I couldn't move my car because it wouldn't go into drive or reverse or neutral. (The car turned on, but the engine wouldn't start). I tried turning the car off, but the car also wouldn't turn off. I let the car sit for 5 minutes then tried again and the car turned off. When it turned back on, everything was fine.
My questions is: Do I need to bring this into a mechanic? The car seems to work fine now, but I don't want to be stranded again or do damage to the car by driving it with an issue.
I spent write a bit of time and this process is living proof i can't do it.
View 5 RepliesAfter trying to start my '08 Prius, the following message appears on my touch screen about 2-3 times a month: "The transmission PARK lock mechanism is abnormal. Park your car at a flat place and apply the parking brake completely". I try to patiently wait it out while I apply the parking brake, unapply it etc. Finally, all dash lights will go out, and I can then start the car.
View 5 RepliesA month or two ago I started getting the error message on my screen while driving. There is a problem with the Transmission P lock mechanism. Park you car on a flat surface and fully apply the parking brake. After reading up on the error, I replaced the 12-volt battery. (it was the original)
View 2 RepliesMy 2005 Prius has about 140,000 miles. I had been getting the intermittent warning message, "Caution: The transmission lock mechanism is abnormal" although the vehicle has been able to start and drive just fine. I replaced the 12v battery, which was suggested in several other threads. However, the warning keeps reappearing. Possibly related, my gear shift knob is "sticky". I'm able to get it into each gear (and the transmission remains in the gear selected), but the knob does not move smoothly like it used to.
View 2 Replies2007 Prius here. A few months ago I had a similar problem. Basically when putting my hand on the door sensor, the doors would cycle through unlocking (noise, lights flash etc) without actually unlocking. If I keep pulling the handle after each attempt it seems to go forever.
The front passenger door also did not lock under any circumstance.
Took it into Toyota, they absolutely screwed me I now realize, $900 to replace a door actuator in that passenger door.
Worked fine for a few weeks. Then all of a sudden, problem started again. Just like last time, slowly slowly over the course of 2 months, it got worse and worse until today I could not open the driver side front or rear door at all.
Everytime i hit the lock button on my keyfob the passenger door locks and the alarm goes on but my door does not lock no matter what. i tried locking the door first then getting out. Hitting the button a few times.
View 5 RepliesOn occasion my drivers side door will not unlock, I have a SEL with the key less sensors so as I try to get in the car it unlocks all the rest of the doors but not the drivers, I have to go to the other side and physically use the inside latch and then that door unlocks. I notice this when I run the remote start cycle twice more than anything.
View 4 Replies97 extended cab -three door, The third door for rear access just clicked and something inside snapped loose. Now it won't release and open.
Where do I start to get into the latching mechanism?
will the upholstery come off while closed?
Do I drill the two rivets at the handle to get into it and open it?