My cady hesitates from stop when accelerating just initially and then runs fine while driving. I have changed plugs, electronic ing, wires cap, rebuilt carb fuel filter. What can be causing this???
View 10 RepliesOur 2015 es350 with 2,500 miles hesitates when accelerating from a dead stop, such as from a stop light. We are told this is to be expected with this vehicle. The dealership test-drove the car and say there's no problem. But this hesitation is unlike any other car we've experienced.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2010 accent 2.0 with 110k. When accelerating from a stop it seems to hesitate or miss in the first 20 ft or so. The service engine light has not come on which indicates to me it's not in the emission sensors. Where to start looking?
View 10 RepliesI have a '99 passat 1.8t Tiptronic. 106,000 miles. Recently I've been getting a bad hesitation when accelerating from a stop. At half throttle the car kinda bogs down and hesitates then as the rpms get higher it seems to clear out and accelerate smoother. At the same time the car doesn't have the same sack it used to. I checked he plugs, found them very fouled. Replaced them and the problem got a little better, but definitely still there. There has to be a reason the plugs fouled. There is no CEL so I don't really know what to check first.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 LS 460 with about 50,000 miles. Some 18 months ago, at about 35,000 miles,right after a service, I began to experience hesitation/lack of power when accelerating from a stop. Lexus fixed this by doing a software update to the transmission.
All was well till last month, when again right after a service, the car hesitated and totally lacked power , most noticeable from a rolling stop. Revs would very gradually climb to 5,000, with foot flat on accelerator, yet car barely moving. Once speed built up to highway speeds, car reacted normally. Took it back to Park Place Lexus who held the car for 10 days and did a major job changing the cylinder head, I think per L-SB-0033-08.
A month later, the hesitation/lack of power is even worse then before! I suspect the issue is the transmission, and the big surgery on the engine done last month was not required. After nearly being hit trying to merge with traffic today, the vehicle is back at the dealership, and I took their head tech for a drive. He experienced the problem, but did not venture a solution. He told me they take instructions on what to do directly from Lexus.
I have 2003 Buick Century. I started having problems with the car after coming to a stop, accelerating - the car starts to go hesitates, then jerks a bit to go. This does not happen every time after a stop but when it does the service engine soon light comes on. Initially I got the P0401 code (I think) and took it in to a mechanic. They could not find anything wrong with the car but did clean out the EGR valve, that didn't work, they worked on my transmission and replaced other parts, still no success.
I took the car to another mechanic who replaced the EGR valve and several other small parts. I still had the problem but this time the error code was P0420. I took it back again and replaced the spark plugs, O/2 sensor, catalytic converter. That hasn't fixed the problem. The mechanic said that they have taken my car for several test drives and the car has not demonstrated the problem. The error message still reads P0420 even after all of the parts have been replaced. The 2nd mechanic has washed his hands of my problem.
F250 5.4L have had a new fuel pump installed and new spark plugs (one blew out). When accelerating, or at a stop i get a kinda hesitation. It did it when I first bought the truck but put correct size tires on it and it went away. What it may be? I don't have a check engine light or anything and at cruise speed no problem--it's just when a slight load is put on the engine?
View 1 RepliesI recently bought a 2013 gx and noticed a few things.
1. At high speeds 50+ mph the car downshifts quite often during rapid deceleration.
2. When coming to a near stop but not completely, and accelerate moderately to fast, lot of times there is a jerkiness when stepping on pedal initially. Is this normal or could it be something with the differential gearbox?
Have a 2007 Sonata (2.4 L inline 4) and been plagued with rough/shaking car when initially started and pull to stop, and generally goes away when fully warmed up. Recently had oil change and service area switched me to a lower viscosity oil (5W30 to 5W20) and checked a solenoid and it was fine. Also did a fuel service treatment I suppose in an attempt to flush out stuff........I was a little surprised he didn't pursue talking about tuning up aspects but maybe none of those codes flashed......a repeating code I do have is Code 11.........though I confess when the codes refer to emission stuff I sort of ignore them.......
View 12 RepliesI have a 2006 CTS, 3.6. 128k miles. Always changed the oil myself at 3,000 miles religiously. A few months ago, the car began to "jump" or hesitate when accellerator pushed. Not right away, but after car reached about 30 mph. Again when on it reached about60 mph on highway. It cruises fine, but if you push it, it stutters a bit and the check engine light flashes, Then regains it's composure and away it goes. I noticed that when I changed the oil, the filter is filthy, filthy. Always has been. Use the right oil and all.
Now, I take it to a local national automotive chain and they tell me it is misfiring on #6 and needs plugs, coils and the works. So I had them do it. The car still jumps at same intervals. So i take it back and now it is misfiring on ALL plugs ( or so the computer says). Now the mechanic tells me that the timing chains are all buggered up and the engine needs to be replaced. So I seek another it to another garage and they say that they see the same codes, but don't think it is in need of new engine. They would like to keep it anid see if they can find the problem. A week passes and they can't diagnose the problem.
I am experiencing what feels like a "bump in the rear" when initially starting from a dead stop. It feels like a car behind me tapped the bumper or that the truck "hunkers down" first, then moves. Tranny seems fine also. Once moving, there is no problem whatsoever. There atre no noises, leaks, or other symptoms. Also, when coming to a stop, it feels the same way just before the truck completely stops. If I drift forward a little, then apply the accelerator, it does not "slip" or hunker down.
Took it to the dealer and they claim that they can't find anything wrong and may just be the suspension releasing? The truck does this whether loaded or not?
2001 F250 CC Lariat SB 7.3
Why would the car remote stop function AT THE EXACT SAME TIME that AM radio interference starts? At first both would function fine all day until it got hot outside - then both would go wrong. now it both problems occur all the time. - Replacing the remote batteries didn't work. - The interference doesn't vary with engine speed.
Its a 2003 CTS.
I've noticed that my V6 and the 2 dealer's loaners have the same subtle hesitation in 3rd and 4th when acceleration. Casual, everyday accelerating. Less noticeable if you hit it hard.
View 5 RepliesA friend of mine has a 1989 240 I'm trying to get road worthy so he can sell it. After regapping, cleaning intake, cleaning idler, new sender, new in-tank fuel pump, and new MAF (all needed to be replaced) the engine still has issues accelerating from idle.
Did the usual diagnostics (#2, #6 LED flash modes). Even took apart the throttle body sensor to make sure that was functioning.
Idle is good and smooth. If I slowly open up the throttle the engine behaves well enough, but if I ope up the throttle to, say, 1/8th from idle the engine will hesitate POORLY. I can even make the engine die. I can drop the throttle to zero and rev back up fine so long the revs don't go down to idle. I made double-sure the throttle sensor clicks from the idle position (the sensor just has two spst switches to detect zero and high throttle).
Engine sounds fine otherwise. No problem opening up to full throttle once I get the revs a little above idle.
I have a 07 Camry LE. I recently replaced the belt tensioner and belt. A couple, maybe three weeks later its having symptoms of hesitation when accelerating and when at a stop. The rpm's are stable but seem to dip below its operating specification, causing the car to come to a wobble felt just like when you're in too low a gear when driving a standard vehicle. I suspect it may be air related but that's just a guess. I have not looked under the hood yet since its dark out and would like to get some feedback on this problem. Another probable cause I suspect is the fuel filter. The car has 113,000 miles and i doubt its ever been changed (I am the second owner).
Before I changed the tensioner I could be a stop and then suddenly press the accelerator to avoid oncoming traffic. The car will stall and die sometimes. It's has only done this to me on two occasions. Both at the same location. Rapid acceleration at this point was on an incline. If it matters.
1992 WT pick up 263,000 miles had new head gasket installed valves lapped and tune up it was doing it before and does get better when truck warms up, but still can hesitate at times. When cold you have to feather gas pedal to truck accelerating, you can hear truck motor pop through throttle body but will continue to speed up.
View 2 RepliesWith Eco off my sport has a nice bog/hesitation when accelerating. Doesn't matter if ac is on or not. I'm also using shell from the same station I've always used for years. The 2.0 is still pretty new. My cruze turbo had the same kind of issue and turned out to be the spark plug gap was too small from the factory.
View 1 RepliesI have a VW golf 2.0L AEG with 5 speed manual with 150,000 miles. Lately, it has been hesitating when I accelerate, not all the time but intermittently. It also shakes when I downshift, especially in lower gears. I have replaced the dog bone, the spark plugs, fuel filter, clean the MAF and tried another ignition coil. Nothing really worked. The only that worked a little (like a day) is when I disconnected the MAF sensor. I tried to do it again without much success. I scanned the car with VAG COM and I have no code.
The original clutch and original fuel pump are on the car. I checked the timing belt and it is in good shape. I was thinking that I may need a new clutch but I don't have nay slipping, just the vibrations when I downshift. I thought maybe the motor mounts are bad but I don't see excessive play when I rev up the engine. I sprayed the spark plug wires and ignition coil with water without any issues. What I should do next? Motor mounts or clutch? Bring it to VW for diagnosis?
I traded in my 2015 for a 2016. I had the hesitation in my 2015 when moderately accelerating out of corners. So far in the last 1000 miles on my 2016, no hesitation.
View 2 RepliesI bought a cheap golf in february. It's an akl engine (1.6sr). Everything was fine on the way home. The car then wasn't used for like a month or two, and was stored outside. When we started using the car it gradually got more and more stuttering. At first it was just a slight stutter when accelerating, but now it's horrible. It will stutter and hesitate like crazy when accelerating or under load, but will cruise just fine at normal rpms. So far I have changed the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and a bad spark plug wire, but nothing has worked. I bought a vag scanner but couldn't find any codes. The idle isn't too bad but not perfect. What the problem can be?
View 10 RepliesI have sent my 2008 ES350, 47K to a dealer since it has a bit hesitation on accelerating; RPM goes upto 3K easily to get engaged to next one.
The dealer told me that no hardware problem but they did update a tranny firmware. They added that it may work right away or work after 3~4 fuelings.
What would be next step?