Cabrio - Clutches :: 2001 - Click Clack Sounds While Reversing?
Aug 31, 2011
We just got a used 2001 VW Cabrio through a private sale and are unfortunately encountering the first issues a few days after.
It has a manual transmission.
When reversing, the car makes a clack clack sound.The clack clack sound is faster if the car reverses faster.The sound is loud when reversing with the the clutch pedal up.The sound faints, but still exists with the clutch pedal down.The sound disappears when the clutch stick is disengaged from a gear, even though the car keeps rolling backwards.
We know from the receipts, that the car had clutch work done in April.
Before hitting up mechanics, we are trying to find out if this is merely a clutch issue or if this could likely be the entire transmission, or whether we are totally off and its something else entirely.
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I have a 2000 LS, V6, that won't start, had the battery and alternator checked and are fine, last week i notice when I turn the switch to start up there was a 1 or 2 second delay then it would start, the other day the wife called me at work to tell she she was out and it wouldn't start as I was talikng to her she tried it and it started right up, didn't do it again until this morning, check the fuses and all were ok, it started 2 times then about 30 minutes, nothing, and i mean nothing, the security on the dash doesn't indicate a problem, I turn the switch everything lights ups as it should, everything works(radio...etc.) go to start and nothing but click, sounds like it comes from the fuse/relay box under the hood, starter maybe? relay?
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The heater on my 2001 ford F150 is not heating. The blower is working, the inlet hose is hot, the outlet hose is cold. Removal of hoses confirms that there is very limited flow through the heater core. I flushed it but got only minimal improvement. However when I back flush (reversing the flow through the core) the flow is great. Here's the question: Can I reverse the flow through the heater core on a permanent basis? It seems this would give the needed flow of hot fluid through the core to allow heating. Is there a problem with doing this?
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I started the car and was reversing from the drive when I noticed the car was in neutral instead of reverse and had rolled back itself on the incline I stuck it in reverse whilst rolling and a warning light came on. Although the car runs fine every time I start the car, a red square picture of a car with an exclamation mark in the middle of it flashes with the word problem underneath it. and on the dash there is a red triangle with an exclamation mark on the right and a yellow lit engine picture on the left side of the dash.
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I recently purchased a used 2001 Chevy Blazer with a manual transmission. In order to start it, I have to push very hard on the clutch, almost through the floor. Is there some type of adjustment to make starting a little easier? Also, when I push on the parking brake, it also goes right to the floor and seems like it barely engages.
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Okay I have a 2006 Hyundai Elantra with 56,000 miles. Whenever I have been driving for a while in town and and the car is heated up, I get a clicking/popping noise coming from the front end whenever I reverse, turn the wheel, and then brake.
I've been testing it more but it won't always click or pop when i turn the wheel, but when I push the pedal down to stop it clicks and pops a lot. And then as I turn the wheel back without being on the brake pedal it'll click a little bit more.
Normally this would sound like a suspension problem but the fact that I have to push the pedal down to "activate" the sound has me baffled. And the weird thing is, is sometimes when I'm turning into a parking spot at low speeds it will click just a little bit..
It almost feels like the brake lines are getting tangled up and making sounds. I know that's not the case but I'm trying to describe the sound. It's not the normal pop you would get when a tie rod is going out. It doesn't really sound like its metal on metal. And it doesn't constantly click while reversing or turning like it would if it were the CV axle.
The car stops just fine though.. I'd even say the brakes are pretty touchy. The other issue I have with brake sounds is coming from the back. When I'm slowing down ... at around 15 mph it will click in the back every rotation. It has to be coming from the drum brakes. That doesn't concern me so much as it probably is time for new pads or something in the hardware needs tweaking.
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New here. I have a 2001 F150 which i love but lately has been an issue. I started it up a few weeks ago after it set over night. i threw it in to reverse and notice it hesitating while reversing and it has small trouble accelerating but does buck and jerk while trying to maintain speed. So I took it to my well trusted mechanic and he ran compression test and ran the highly prolific OTC scanner on it and nothing. I have changed my mass flow sensor and I dont show any misfires or any codes pending. I did replace a busted catalytic convertor a couple months back. Im running out of places to turn.
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I bought a 2004 Honda Accord over the summer. Now the the weather is cooler, I drive with the windows down, and I have noticed there is a "clack" sound when I change gears. It is hard to describe the sound, but it sounds like someone hitting a plate of metal with a hammer. I only hear this sound in first, second and third gear. The engine gets too loud in fourth and fifth gear, so it may just be drowning out the "clack".
I never remember hearing such a sound when I drove a manual transmission back in the late 90s. Is this sound an indicator of a problem? Do I need to take the car into a shop to have them take a look at it?
Additional Information:
Mileage: 106,000I am not the original owner, I purchased it at CarMax, and there was only one owner for the entire life of the car until CarMax bought it. The car looks like it was really cared for by the original owner. CarMax said that the clutch was fine, but...you never know with salesmen.
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30-40 seconds after shutting down the engine, i can hear a single "clack/click" noise coming from under the hood, near the right wheel. Is it normal? What's moving, some sort of electrovalve/actuator?
I hear it being out of the car, inside it's not so easy to listen. It's well after I turn off the key and it does it only once. It's not really near the wheel, with the hood open i located the CLACK behind the engine (on the side near the windscreen), could it be something related with fap / etc.?
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I know there's a normal humming/buzzing that occurs when you open the driver's door after the car has been sitting for a while (fuel pump/starter/something -- apparently allows the car to start easily?). I realize that's normal. But I've noticed that over the last few days I'm now getting what sounds like a loud clack (almost as if the seat belt buckle is hitting some other piece of metal). It only happens in conjunction with the humming/buzzing after the car has been sitting for a while. What it might be? I'm trying to avoid going in for service until my 5k or until something major happens. I have a lot of these will come back, "No problem found", so I'd rather not waste my time.
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What makes a 6.0 or 7.3 "clack"? I am not experienced enough with internals of a diesel to understand it.
Reason I ask, is my 6.0 is clackier than ANY other 6.0 or 7.3 that I have encountered. I mean it really cackles. Injector timing?
the engine was "bulletproofed" and (as the seller stated to me) was "flashed with a custom designed tune made by a Powerstroke specialist"... to which I have no further information on. This I assume was done for longevity and not performance.
Its quiet on the highway, but in town and stop-starts or low-speed acceleration it is crazy crackly.
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2001 Santa Fe with a 6 cylinder. Died a while ago at CVS when my kid was driving it. I went there, jump started it, bingo all set. Drove it home. Shut it off, tried to restart, nothing happens. For safety's sake, since my daughter drives it, I bought a new battery. Installed it. Nothing but a click. Then winter came, and since we have an extra car, I left the Santa Fe to sit for a while.
Spring arrives, I install a new starter, charge the battery, turn the key, just get a click. Tested the old starter for giggles, it was fine.
Voltage at the hot terminal on the starter is 12.5v. Voltage at the solenoid when the key is turned to the start position is 12.5v. But still no start. I turned the crank easily by hand, so the motor is not locked up. I even tried hotwiring it but even that was fruitless.
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Bought a 2004 GX470 a few months ago. Took it into the local Toyota dealer for oil change (40+ miles to nearest Lexus)
They told me I needed to replace front brake pads, so I did that. Immediately after they finished I noticed what I would describe as a clack or clank sound when pressing or releasing the brake pedal.
This sound was not there before. I went back inside and told them, the tech came out and listened and said it would probably go away. I took the car back in a couple weeks later and they applied some type of lube which didn't work. The service rep said that the only way to remove sound was to replace some type of pin.
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My friend is willing to lend me her Cabrio that she had let sit for about a year. I replaced the battery and tried to start it. The alarm went off (we lost the key-remote thingy) and it did not start. The lights all worked but once we tried to turn it over it just went Click-click. The alarm shut off once we disconnected the battery.
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