Buick - Transmissions - Parkavenue :: 1996 - Move Shifter In And Out For Getting Right Spot To Go Into Reverse
Apr 26, 2016
My 1996 Buick Park Avenue had problems finding reverse. You would have to move the shifter in and out of reverse and get it in just the right spot to go into reverse. once it is going in reverse you can hear a slight ticking sound like the park gear isn't totally disengaged. now it is nearly impossible to find reverse and when you put it in neutral its like it is in park.
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The problem began with the battery going down slowly while the car sat. Then the blower motor wouldn't shut off, even with the key turned off. With the blower motor disconnected, the battery no longer discharges. I bought and installed a (used) climate control panel but the problem persists. I'm not sure where to go from here.
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I drive a 1996 Buick Park Avenue Ultra and my front dash blowers do not blow air (hot or cold). The defroster and the floor vents work fine, but not the front vents. I have heard this means something is wrong which has put my HVAC system in "default mode." Could this be a disconnected vaccum line somewhere and if so, where do I look for it? How do I troubleshoot this? I should also add that the electronic controls and display all seem fine. ParkAveUltra
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When I started my car and put it in reverse, it didn't move. It felt like my front, right wheel was in a divet or was being blocked somehow (intuitively it seemed like if I accelerated enough, it would eventually move, but since there was nothing physically stopping it - that I could see - I didn't want to break something by doing that). I tried putting it in drive and neutral and the same issue was still there. I put the car up on a jack and checked one wheel at a time - I could move each wheel completely around in both directions.
I could move the steering wheel all the way to the right and to the left. I tried turning off the 4-wheel drive and that didn't do anything. At this point I'm concerned it could be the transmission or the drive shaft, but I'm not sure what to look for in order to know if I need to get it towed to a shop (hoping I can avoid this) or if there's a simple test I can do, or a way to "reset" something if it may be locked. I haven't had anything happen to the car that would have been of concern.
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I am considering buying a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan with a reported transmission problem. Mileage is around 120k, and the price MIGHT be reasonable even if a trans rebuild would be necessary. I have not seen the vehicle yet, so I'm not yet committed to anything.
Seller claims the car shifts just fine going forward but will not move in reverse. Is this immediately clear that rebuild is going to be necessary? Are there less invasive repairs possible such as valves or controls or other parts which might solve this problem?
I suppose a Caravan transmission at 120,000miles is probably nearing the end of its lifetime, at least that was true of older ones. But like I said, the price is low enough that the cost of a rebuild might be justifiable if all else about the vehicle looks good. I want to have a better sense of the prospects before I invest time in going to look at this...it's about 50 miles away. I have a local transmission shop that I trust and which has reasonable prices
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Here is what I have:
2009 Santa Fe 3.3L AWD
70k KMs / 43k Miles
Temp has been very cold, -20C / -4 F
Car starts up without any problems. Try to put car in Reverse and the shifter is very hard to move, if it moves at all. When I am able to get it into Reverse, I then try to put it in Drive and it does not "engage" the "D" and the car behaves like its in Neutral. Moving the shifter back to Park, Neutral, Drive is very difficult and sometimes it will not go into Park. The dash lights do not illuminate the selected P, R, N, D.
However, once the car is warmed up (no longer on C on the temperature gauge) I can with a little effort move the shifter freely (but more effort than it should take) and the car behaves normally. Gear shifts are smooth and in general it is operating normally.
The dash lights do illuminate the selected P, R, N, D. I've checked the Trans fluid level and it appears to be normal and was planning to change it this w-e but I'm no longer sure it will work. Even if it has never been changed.
Also note that I have recently changed a wheel/hub bearing due to a noise that sounds a lot like loud tires on a highway. The bearing change did not eliminate the noise and I assumed that I've changed the wrong one. The noise does not appear to be coming from the Trans, but I cant be 100% sure. The noise is speed related and occurs only after about 20KM/h 16MPH. Unsure if they are related..
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I have a 09' 4cyl automatic engine with 54k.
About 30min ago when when I parked the shifter would not move past neutral into reverse and go into park. I can go from D into neutral or the next slot over for manual shifting. Naturally this causes a problem as you can't take the key out of the ignition if its not in park.
I took a screw driver and popped open the cap for the shift release button and used that to move it into park. Turned car off, back on, etc etc seemed fine. So when I tried moving it into reverse and it wouldn't budge. It instead would make a electronic click or snap coming form the steering column but more back toward the engine. Like more into the dash area but back in it. It would make this noise every time I attempted to move it but it wasn't a continuous sound. Just once with each jerk to the side to move it out of park.
So the car works fine except for this. I used it with the screw driver/shift release to unlock it and it drives fine. Goes into reverse and back in park but if I move it into neutral or drive it will not go back into reverse or park.
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My cousin has a 2007 Ford Taurus with the pushrod 3.0L. It has the console shifter and it is hard to move the shift lever into Park from Reverse. The shifer moves out of park and to every other gear with normal effort. The gear indicator correctly displays the shifter position. It drives/shifts perfectly fine. The only problem is that it is hard to move the shifter from Reverse into Park. It feels like there is a rubbery, or somewhat mushy threshold/resistance that needs to be overcome with a moderate amount of effort to get the shifter into park. Once the shifter is in Park it feels normal meaning you don't have to hold or force the shifter to stay in park.
It is frustrating because it seems most other people have a problem with the shfiter being hard to move from Park to Reverse or Neutral, but she is having the opposite issue. Will it hurt the car to keep shoving the shifter into park when necessary without getting it fixed?
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1996 F250. I think its a Ford works great until yesterday. Put it in reverse had to rev it up to get it to move and when it did kind shook and sliped an does back up but doesn't like it....
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My daughter's 2002 Saturn S-series coupe has a manual transmission. Lately it has been jumping out of 2nd gear, and occassionally 4th and reverse. What is the most likely cause?
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I have recently been having some movement in the rear of my car...I can mainly feel it when I am going under 20 mph. I have had replaced the two rear tires with other used tires cuz my original tires were going bald. Can this be the problem? Can Broken belts on the tires or "BAD TIRES" can cause this or is it another problem I should be worried about i.e sway bar links/ sway bar, etc.? 2000 buick PA 3.8
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My Buick Park Ave 2000 is having an acceleration problem. It seems to be skipping at different times. It happens more often at lower speeds than higher speeds. It still happens at higher speeds though. I was on a long trip of about 180 miles and on the highway it seemed fine. What do you think is causing this? I did take it to a garage and they couldn't find anything wrong with it and of course true to form nothing happened when they took it for a spin. They did computer checks and everything was fine.
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I own a 1999 Buick Park Avenue - that stalls. There is no pattern to the stalling.It stalls when I start driving, after I have been driving for a long period or when I just begin driving. It stalls when I turn a corner or on the highway, when I am at a stop sign or a red light. It is baffling. My mechanic has tried a number of solutions, including replacing the crankshaft sensor, however, it still stalls.
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Get in my car, try to start it and BAM it hits me. As I turn the key, the engine cranks up quick, kinda too quick, if you ask me. As I go to adjust my radio, I feel my car start to jump around and shake pretty rough. As I look at my gauges, I see my check engine light start to flash. So instead of trying to drive away, I turn it off and try to start it again. Same thing happens!! So I try it again and finally a normal start. Whew, I thought that was close. But oddly enough my check engine light comes on and stays on this time, no more flashing and the engine feels fine. What the problem could be? Is it safe to drive my car?
2000 Buick Park Avenue 3.8 auto....
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I recently had the radiator on my car replaced and wen I got it back the temperature and gas gauge needles are both blown past the HOT sign and past the full sign on my gas gauge and is sitting under the little black piece under the the cold side and under the empty side. it was obviously messed with and completely turned around but why is it like this? will it reset itself or should I take i.e., back to the mechanic to have it fixed by him?
2000 buick park avenue....
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I have a 1995 Park Avenue 3.8 with 278,000 miles. Runs fine until about 3rd gear and 55mph when if under any load at all the whole car jumps and shutters. If not under load, like going up-hill, no shutter or skip and runs smooth. If accelerator pressed at all, even when running smooth the shutter begins. Normally does not shutter at lower speeds.
Thought it was the transmission, so serviced the transmission. No improvement.
Took car to local transmission repair. They drove and do not think it is the transmission. They did check pressure at the throttle body, gas flow - let gas flow into clear container, no debris or water - and pressure was in the 52 range. Dropped some on acceleration while in park.
Shop did scan the computer, no codes. Check engine light is not on. Checked fuel filter and it was good.
They also checked all the spark plug wires and indications were that all were firing and in good order. They misted the wires with a spray bottle to see if they could detect electrical leaks - did not find any.
The car is not driven that often and was very low on gas. After leaving the transmission shop, bought gas and initially the car ran great with no hesitation or shutter even at 55mph. Shutter returned within about a mile. The car acts as if it has time to fill a container with gas it runs fine until the container looses some of the gas then it runs rough, or if you are driving along and try to take more than the normal flow out of the container the car runs rough - if they makes any sense.
Bought new gas filler cap just in case. No change.
The fuel filter and fuel pump were replaced at the same time about 2 years ago.
The EGR was replaced about 1 1/2 years ago. New plugs and wires about 1 1/2 years ago.
There is sometimes, but not all the time, a loud pitched whistle which seems to be coming from the area of the gas tank. Oddly enough if the car is in park and running while the whistle is happening, if the brake is pressed, the whistle changes in pitch to a louder and fuller whistle. When the brake is released, the whistle pitch drops in volume and more of a shrill whistle. Same happens moving transmission from P to R.
I feel I have a fuel problem, however, fuel flow, pressure, etc., seem to be ok. The mechanic drove the car with pressure gauge attached to the throttle body and didn't seem to feel that the gas was the problem upon returning from the drive.
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I have a 1993 Buick Park Ave Ultra with 127,000 mi and it has a rattle like noise in the engine. I took it to the mechanic and he said it was the supercharger and that if that went out the car would not run. I would like info on the supercharger, eg. is it critical for just riding around town and exactly what it does, and how expense is it to fix/replace.
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I recently bought a 1997 Park Avenue and have a couple of repair questions.1) The car is in need of struts/shocks. The rear has air shocks. Before I purchase new air shocks, how do I test the compressor to make sure there is no problem? If the compressor is bad, is it possible to install conversion shocks and do away with the compressor/ air shocks?2) The previous owner says the cruise control does not work. On rare occasions it will work for a brief time during the winter. What things can I check out? Someone suggested checking the brake light switch.
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I own a 1999 Park Avenue Ultra. Recently it's developed a problem where the engine just stops when I'm driving. It happens at all speeds--on the highway, on local roads, in parking lots, or just idling. Starting up the car after it stalls is not problem; it always starts right up. The car stalls at least once a day after it's all warmed up. Additional stalls can occur, but there is no quantifiable interval between additional stalls. This car has spent most of its 148,000 miles in the upper Midwest. This past winter I drove to car to Arizona, and that's when the stalling started. One mechanic looked at the car, but couldn't find anything wrong and couldn't get it to stall when he took it out for an extended drive. What the problem might be?
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The cruise control stopped working. The "Cruise" light comes on, but the speed does not hold.Where should I start looking? Where is the control module?
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on an 1979 Buick Park Ave, can't change from 1st gear to drive. Preliminary diagnosis is a low vacuum at the transmission regulator valve(?). Car has 207,xxx miles. Is this a carburetor problem that may be clogged with carbon deposits, or what else can be causing the problem. Gear change needs a higher vacuum on the transmission regulator
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