I am having a hard time getting the low EGR flow check engine code to clear. The EGR valve and tube from the exhaust manifold were replaced, the wiring harness verified, the passage channel between the EGR valve and the intake manifold cleaned out...but the check engine light remains... what to try next?
View 12 RepliesI was going to look into getting a replacement EGR valve from AutoZone, which I did. After installing the valve and on my way to reset the check engine light, it went away and has not come back.
View 1 RepliesWe had the transmission in our Buick Terraza overhauled with 196,000 miles on it. The van had about 250,000 miles on it and we took it on vacation this summer when lo and behold, we were left stranded 800 miles from home when the transmission went out. We managed to make it home and eventually got the van home when my wife asked...what are you going to do with it? To which I responded, I am going to replace it myself with a transmission that has a better than 12 mo, 12,000 mile warranty.
Long story short, I bought a rebuilt Jasper transmission which comes with a 3 year, 100,000 mile warranty. When I was taking the transmission out though, I noticed that the brace that attaches the transmission to the right rear side of the engine was loose. There are 3 bolts that hold the brace to the engine and all three had bottomed out in the engine block. Me question...is this right...or did the previous garage that overhauled the transmission use bolts that were too long...or maybe they need a washer under them. With them being loose, there is some sloppiness to the bracket so I didn't know if it was designed that way to account for any variances in the transmission housing.
I have an 01 Explorer Sportrac with a 4.0, 105,000 milles. Got the check engine light with the EGR low flow code. I get this code about once a year and a new DPFE usually takes care of it. I get the sensor from Advanced Auto which explains the short life I am guessing. Last time i replaced the sensor the light came back on a couple weeks later.
After highway driving smoke starts pouring freon under the hood, passenger side, but by the time I get the hood opened its done. Cant tell where it is coming from. Could a faulty DPFE cause the smoke or do you think the EGR valve may be sticking? I was going to try a Ford DPFE this time but I hate to just throw parts at it. Where do the smoke is coming out of, air filter box????? cant see anything else over there related to the EGR system......
My check engine light keeps coming on sporadically and giving me a PO101 error code...then I'll reset it after making sure my MPG hasn't dipped a significant amount (which is my "concrete" way of gauging if it's performance is impaired) and it'll come on 1-600 miles later. There's no consistency in environment or conditions that are triggering this sensor, at least it's not obvious to me. I finally looked under the hood at the filter and it's a little dirty, but not nearly dark enough for it to be the problem.
View 4 RepliesMy check engine light was throwing the code P1121 for the coolant flow valve. Toyota replaced it under a warranty enhancement (I have 134k on it), and since then my mpgs have gone from 46 to 50.
My AC is working much better now, too. My theory is that the valve can be in a semi-failure mode for a long time before throwing a code. Now that My coolant is flowing the way that it should, heat is being dissipated more efficiently.
I cleaned my k&n air filter on my 02 passat 1.8 turbo let it dry oiled it very lightly, and 50 miles later I get a check engine light on, pulled the code 16486 and it says Mass or Volume Air Flow Circ Low Input. Cleared the code put a frame in until I can get it filter. Why that would throw me that code, k&n oil gumming up my sensor??
View 2 RepliesI just got a Check Engine light on yesterday. I went to Autozone and got an OBD-II Trouble Code: P0401, Insufficient EGR Flow Insufficient. The Autozone guy showed me an EGR valve for $164 and said it maybe blocked or something. I also checked with a friend who says that as long as the engine is not overheating it should be okay for driving for now.
So the far the car runs just fine, I haven't experienced any issues out of normal. Does the code mean the value need to be replaced?
It came on yesterday and went out on it's own today then came back on later. The code is PO354. the manual says the "D" ignition coil primary is open or has a problem. I don't believe it because the engine runs fine. Opinions?
View 14 RepliesI have a CEL on my 2007 Avalon so I decided to take it to Autozone to get a scan. Error code P0015 was returned. This code has to do with B Camshaft Position, Timing Over Retarded (Bank 1). I've done a little research and I've read that this could possibly from a dirty screen on the Oil Control Valve, the OCV itself, or the Cam Position Sensor. Before replacing parts, what I would like to do first is to check/clean the screen on the OCV. Secondly, I would like to swap the Cam Position Sensor to a different bank and see if the other bank throws an error. If the other bank throws an error, then I know the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced. With this said, I am having trouble locating the OCV and CPS. Where the valve and sensor is located. A diagram would be useful.
View 14 RepliesI replaced the water pump. Huge problem. I will get rid of the car before I replace that again. But, it is replaced and the car is functioning.
Unfortunately, the check engine light remains on and I still get p0327(knock sensor) code and car has a slight ruff run.I have the Actron code reader(fairly cheap, but effective) and it will clear the vsc but not the check engine. Upon restart, the check engine light reappears in 7 seconds followed by the vsc symbol. This has been for a week now. So I have been dreading tackling this project next. But I figure if I'm doing this, I better change the rear plugs and maybe the rear coil packs as well.
Don't want to do this, but whether I do it or send it to the dealership, once is all I'm gonna do. I say all of this and yesterday, the check engine light goes away on its own and full power is back and ruff run gone.
I still plan to go into the engine this year because my car just hit 120,000 miles and i have to change my plugs. If it recurs, I will change it all. I will just wait. Only going in once.
I bought a 2005 Volvo V70 with 75,500 miles on Nov. 13. On Nov. 15, the check engine light went on, and I returned to the dealership for a solenoid replacement. The check engine light went on again on Nov. 17, oil pan replaced. On Nov. 19, the light went on again, timing belt replaced. On Nov. 22, the light went on again. Each time the code was the same--sometimes in conjunction with other codes--but one code was consistent. We returned the car on Nov. 22 and asked for a refund in keeping with the Massachusetts lemon law (an attempt at repair 3+ times). The dealer refused, saying the check engine light and computer code were not the same as an attempted repair. He took the car and said he was going to call Volvo Tech in. However, he says the light "went off" and never came back on even though his staff has test driven it 170 miles in the past three days. He's "releasing our car" to us, even though he has made no repair. Tell me--is trying to address the same computer code considered a "repair"?
View 13 Replieswhere best place to start looking for what's causing p0442 code on my 2005 rx330? and its not the gas cap... also have a "c" code identified for the VSC light, states that its wheel speed sensor. evidently wrote the wrong code down, i had it listed as a c1290 but in looking them up i couldn't find that one.
View 6 RepliesMy 2005 Camry check engine light is on. The trouble code is P0138, bank 1 sensor 2 oxygen sensor. Engine is the 2AF-ZE. Not a California emission car. Car is Japan built. It has two O2 sensors. What is the correct OEM part #? I believe it would be a Denso?
View 2 RepliesSo, I have my check engine light and the code is p0327 (knock sensor). Clear cose but it returns. Going on for 3 days now. I was suspicious that something else is going on. I also remembered I've been using a little more antifreeze in the reservoir. So, today I needed to watch the coolant. I ran the car for an hr and I found a lot. Red coolant on my belt, the back passenger side of my engine and it was caked on with coolant. I think the water pump is going up.
I was concerned that coolant was also leaking from the intake manifold but it's only the right side, so I'm pretty sure the coolant is being slung around from the belt. I rinsed the engine down and the knock sensor code went away. Temporarily, until more coolant got back there. Do you think I will need to replace the knock sensor along with the water pump or should the sensor work ok after some intense cleaning after the water pump replacement?
My 2005 Dodge Dokota 4.7L V8 152,000 miles has an intermittent check engine light (CEL) code P0420 ('catalylst efficiency') that turns itself off.
1) 151,000 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer.
2) 151,948 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer (Cat Conv).
3) 152,200 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at local auto parts store.
4) 152,597 CEL on. No checks.
5) 152,815 CEL turned off on its own
6) 152,849 CEL on. No checks.
7) 153,137 CEL turned off on its own.
Twice in this time CEL has came on soon after a fill up from near empty.
Engine runs fine, 18-19 mpg highway.
Have seen numerous on-line reports of other possible causes:
a) base engine problems (coolant or oil) -- coolant temp sensor
b) Air inleakage -- air systems or manifold
c) Lazy front O2 sensor
d) fuel pumps
e) timing or misfire
f) what else? - (gas cap, other...)
What to check first or categories to eliminate?
I know that the air injection system is supposed to kick on during a cold start, which it does, but i get the check engine code that it has "incorrect flow"...... What could this be?!
View 2 RepliesHad the check engine light in the 2005 F150 (90,000 miles) come on. Got the code checked and its P0420. I know that has to do with the cat threshold levels etc. so I believe I am looking to replace the o2 sensor, if I am not mistaken.
How hard of a job is this? Ive done a decent amount of engine work and worked in a shop in high school. Just looking to see if that is the right thing to try first, replacing the sensor, before replacing the cat.
Also I know its the right bank, but if I am not mistaken there is a before and after the cat o2 sensor, which do i replace? Both?
Ok so I just replaced my mass air flow sensor about a week ago. My check engine light just came back on and when I scanned it it said mass air flow sensor. What could be causing this to happen again? The codes are P0102, P0440, P0440.
View 4 RepliesMy car just turned 85k miles. The day it turned 85k, I recieved a message from dealer saying their records indicate car is due for 85k service. Coincidence? Note: I do not have my service done at the local toyota shop. They have not seen car since last warranty work probably 2+ years ago.
Also at about this same time, the service engine light came on, (oil change needed). Since I only use mobil 1 in the car with genuine Toyota filters, I am not to concerned if the car gets another 500 miles on it while scheduling a service. However, this time, returning from a short trip on Sunday, the VSR (traction control) and the check engine light came on. Only Code is p0015 left bank. Monday, warning lights are gone, and oil change is scheduled for Wednesday.
Is the VSR and the P0015 related.
For the past couple weeks my check engine light has come on due to the code reading high purge flow sensor. I checked my gas cap, lines that run from motor to the gas tank and the purge flow that's under the intake. Can't figure out what is exactly going on. And it has 53k miles and runs just fine...
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