Buick - Skylark :: 1995 - Coolant Leak From Thermostat Housing
Feb 12, 2015
I have a 95 skylark 4 cylinder, i have what appears to be a coolant leak from the thermostat housing and i also have coolant mixing with my oil. Can the leak from the housing cause the coolant to mix with the oil? If not what else could be the issue?
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I have a coolant leak coming from I am assuming the thermostat housing or thermostat. My question is, is there a gasket behind this that I am assuming is bad or is the thermostat bad.
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I'm trying to figure where the coolant leak is. Appears to originate on the driver's side front, right near the thermostat housing. Since the engine tilts back the entire drivers side is wet. The thermostat gasket appears to be OK, but it does have a lot of miles on it.
If it's not the thermostat then can coolant leak from the cross over tube. And is the cross over removable without taking off the intake. There appears to be a bolt coming up from underneath on the passenger side.
Also, does coolant flow through this plastic intake. If it does, then the leak could be some where else, if not, then it's probably the thermostat.
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My serp belt started squealing so I pulled the thermostat housing to inspect the rubber gasket. It looked OK, but I cleaned up both surfaces and replaced with a new gasket, and put it back together. The housing was replaced just a couple months ago along with new hoses. It was not corroded and OK to reuse.
Started the truck up and saw a slowish/steady drip of red Cat ELC dripping on the driveway. Opened the hood up again and carefully inspected around the thermostat housing - no coolant is leaking there.
I did notice the same slow/steady drip coming from just behind and beneath the thermostat housing. See in pic, this is where it is dripping. One other question, what is this plug for on the side of the water pump?
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My explorer with 4.0 sohc is starting to leak fluid out of the thermostat housing. How hard is this to do and what can I expect in cost to do it myself. I dont drive this explorer but about 2 miles each way to work as I live on a military post. I have been putting it off ( just keep adding coolant and water) every couple of days. I have noticed that the engine temp doesnt not get up to half way like it use too. Maybe 1/4 of the way on the gauge now. I have always flushed coolant system very two years. It is starting to get some rush in the overflow bottle now too. Other then that she runs good and no other engine issues. She does have a 136k on her.
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Finally got around to replacing my Thermostat because the DIY here made it look so much easier than removing the alternator and such. Did everything exactly as described and after assembling everything with the new t-stat and O-ring I am getting a constant leak from the housing. I tried removing everything and reassembling...all the bolts are tight. Plastic housing isn't cracked and seems to be in great shape. Everything lines up properly but coolant is just running out of the bottom of the housing. Am I missing some magical trick here?
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I set out to do a coolant flush but ran into an increasing number of problems. When I went to replace the thermostat I discovered one of the three bolts would not come out due to the inside thread on the thermostat housing being stripped. I purchased a brand new housing and O-ring.
When I reinstalled the thermostat (also Motorcraft brand) with the above O-ring and attached all the hoses I had a severe leak between the thermostat housing and the intake hose connecter. I diagnosed the problem as the O-ring slipping off of the lip or ledge inside the thermostat housing and not sealing all the way around.
The Motorcraft O-ring seemed like the diameter was too big for the interior lip of the thermostat housing because the ring would pop up on one side whenever I tried to fully seat it on the interior lip. I went to AutoZone and purchased an orange Duralast O-ring, and while it seemed to be a little smaller diameter than the Motorcraft it too slipped off when I tightened down the housing.
I have tried everything, and every time I tightened down the housing I did it very slowly and carefully doing an 1/4 turn at a time with the three bolts but still the O-ring would slip off.
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Bought a 04 GLI had the bad engine, had the engine installed sat at the shop for nearly a year. Towed car to my house to finish it and now I am running into their lack of knowledge and fixing their crap. Now the current issue...On the thermostat housing, a nipple that comes off the side has nothing connected and leaking coolant.
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So I noticed when I check the oil, there is a very small amount of water at the end of the dipstick and also water mixing with oil around the oil cap. It is not much water at all, but my first thought was head gasket. I was loosing very small amounts of coolant, but found a small leak at the thermostat housing....The truck runs fine, idles fine, no bubbles coming from the radiator at startup, no moisture from exhaust. It seems to be using more oil than normal, but I drive it 100 miles a day still and no major issues other than the perplexing bit of water and oil mixing. Could it be a tiny head gasket leak? What else would cause the water and oil to come together.
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1995 Ford Van E150. So I've been trying to solve my overheating problem for months now. One morning I walked out of my house and all of my coolants was on the street. I could not completely detect the source of the leak after running more coolant through it. I also checked the dip stick and coolant on the ground for any sign of oil/coolant mixing. I started by replacing the thermostat.
I did a more thorough inspection and found a crack at the bottom of the radiator that I replaced less than two years ago. I replaced the radiator again and while I had the belt, intake and fan disassembled I switched out the water pump as well. The old water pump was gunked and the gasket was almost completely worn off. The van is still overheating and spitting out coolant at a much higher rate. I'm guessing because of the new water pump. A friend said it could be the intake manifold because of where the steam was coming from the motor.
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02 Jetta 2.0L that I changed the thermostat. o-ring, and cover on when I first got the car about a year and a half ago.
I see dry g12 coming out from behind the cover and my coolant bulb had dipped quite a bit in recent weeks requiring a refill. What is most likely the problem here in such a short period of time? I've only put like 10k miles on the car in that period. O-ring couldn't have seated wrong because wouldn't the problem have been apparent immediately back when I did the job? Maybe I need to re-torque the cover? Cracked cover?
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This 97 Buick will turn over and the engine will catch but then dies. It doesn't do this all the time. Also, the anti theft light comes on during this starting problem.
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I have a coolant leak coming from the area under the oil filter housing where the cooler is. My thought is the little plastic pipe between the cooler and the engine block. I have the alternator removed but am wondering what's next. Can I get to the cooler without dropping the engine?
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Only when running heat or defrost, coolant leak looks like it's coming out of the bell housing. I have a supercharger so very difficult to see behind motor, but with inspection camera, heater hose lines look dry. firewall looks dry. No coolant in cab. No steam on windows or smell. Pretty sure not casting/ freeze plugs because absolutely no leaking with heat off. Can run for days with no loss, then turn on heat and within minutes/ seconds coolant puddling in driveway. Is the hose that runs through valley pressurized only when heat is on? I saw a few older threads but as far as I could tell none specified heat on/ heat off conditions. Just started problem after doing some other work, hoses were off radiator and intercooler, replaced radiator. None of those connections are the culprit.
98 F150 Lariat 1900 TVS S/C Chiller Killer I/C 19PSI Snow performance WMI
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If you have a coolant leak at the y hose for the intake manifold and the thermostat, make sure you replace the upper radiator hose as well as the y hose.
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I've had a 1991 buick skylark for 3 years, just hit 100,000 miles, and for the past few months i've been having problems with it stalling out/misfiring when I press the gas, almost like a lawnmower running out of gas, and then catch and go fine. it was only happening at the 3rd gear change,(randomly but only at that change), and then it started happening only at the 2nd gear change. it first happened at the end of a long road trip, and the speedometer and odometer stopped working at the same as well, but have since returned. but now it's been happening on cross town trips.
Every time it has happened has been random, and it always corrected itself and was fine. but this last time, it was doing it consistently, at random gear changes and from idle. it finally gave out at a stop sign and it barely stuttered across the intersection, but with the check engine light on and never "catching on" or actually dying/cutting off. I took it to my local shop, and they ran all the computer test and road tested it and told me they couldn't find anything wrong. they tested the fuel pump, which had good pressure. They mentioned it might be the module, but were honest and didn't want to charge me for something they couldn't tell was actually wrong. any clue?
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I replaced my Radiator, Upper and Lower Hoses, Thermostat and the thermostat gasket yesterday. I am leaking coolant from the thermostat though, It's coming from the seal between the housing and the block. The gasket was brand new and seemed to fit fine. I don't see any damage around where the seal is made..
Going to run and get a new gasket when the store opens.
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My '96 ranger, 4.0, auto transmission has developed a coolant leak. It is at the rear of the engine, passenger side, at or just above the bell housing. I can't quite see where it is leaking from even using an inspection mirror from on top or underneath. The engine runs great. I just finished replacing the power steering pump, ac compressor, dryer and hoses. What is back there? Freeze plug? Do I fear the worst and that the head or block warped? I may drill a hole from the passenger compartment to try and get a better view.
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The truck has been a dream for several months and I had a coolant leak at the thermostat outlet. Changed the fitting and thermostat and sealed with lots of blue monkey snot. It's been perfect for a couple months but a week ago it started leaking again. Exactly the same as last time. I cleaned the mating surface of the water pump with a plastic scraper to remove the old sealer and then finished it with fine scotch brite. I looked at several parts breakdowns and none of them showed a gasket.......
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I just had my 72 Skylark tuned up, when I start it and put it in gear it makes popping noise and stalls, I restart and let it run a for a few minutes and it will finally go. Once it is warmed up in runs great. What causes this stalling problem,? I guess I'm too old to remember.
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I have a 96 buick skylark. I just recently had the parking pawl fixed because it was broken. Now when I slow down the engine idle seems to start looping and almost stall, it in fact has once. As I slow down, and I can feel the car somewhat trying to pull forward as if its not down shifting correctly. when I finally get stopped the idle will come back up and idle normally. the car upshifts great. I know that one of my rear wheel speed sensors has a broken wire.
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