I have a 95 Buick Riviera. When you put the key in, the car won't start. Then, you take the key out, and it starts. Then the next time you go to start the car, it won't start.
View 2 Replies95 Buick Riviera Supercharger .... when turn blinker on, car dies....or won't start at all. Have to try several times and wait for indicator lights on dash to come on and for the door/key alarm to sound before can turn over car. Sometimes have to turn steering wheel til wheels are straight. Son started hitting/shaking steering to get it to start. Ignition Control Module?
View 2 RepliesMy car has been have overdrive problems for a long time while driving on the highway it will stay in overdrive as long as i keep my foot on gas pedal or brake or in cruise control as soon as i get on the highway. As soon as i go off cruise so does the overdrive and will not go back in till i shut the car off and start it right back up. It makes for a long trip. I had trany oil changed does not effect it at all.
View 5 RepliesWe have a lovely 1998 Buick Riviera with less than 140,000 miles. Normally, it runs great but in the last year, it has developed a neurosis. When we try to start it, 98% of the time, it starts immediately. Once in awhile, you can place the key in the ignition, "click" and nothing. It's as if the car were dead. Trying over and over is a waste of time. You have to wait about 5 minutes or so and WHAM! ... it starts right away. Then it will continue to start fine for days and have a relapse. I can usually tell that it is about to happen because there will be a tiny (fraction of a second) gap between the moment we turn the key and the response. It will do this 4-5 times and then "play dead". Wait 5 minutes and no problem. Then it will continue to run fine for days - even weeks.
View 3 Replies1992 buick riviera 3.8L
So working on the steering column I had to remove the lock plate. Everything went well with my repair, I have the turn signal switch installed but I can not for the life of me get the lock plate spring pushed down far enough to slip in that little ring. I believe the part I am having trouble with is the top bearing inner race. Here is a link to how this looks exactly on my car.
[URL] ......
AS soon as i took off the spring that pushes the lock plate I noticed this race was just loosely sitting and the steering column just wobbles around. What am I doing wrong?
I did this in this order. I just moved the top bearing inner race as far back as it will go (it still just wobbles around with the steering column). then I put the spring in so that it touches the race. finally I place in the lock plate and compress it with the lock plate tool. However it simply will not compress enough for me to slip in the ring and lock it in place. Am i doing something wrong ? Is there some part of the bearing that should go in before this race?
The picture with the red background is how I am inserting these parts. The spring sits on this race but I cant compress it enough. Like i cant get it aligned properly or something.
Buick Riviera 1998 Supercharger
Oil LEVEL light comes on and car shuts off. Take note...NOT oil pressure light- which is the one that looks like a genie lamp. It says OIL LEVEL. This trips up every mechanic I have spoken to.
Doesn't stall (like sputter and die) just shuts off like a safety switch has been tripped or something. But it is an older car 1998 Buick Riviera Supercharger. You wouldn't think it would have that safety feature but maybe. You can start car but if I put it in reverse or even when I am driving the car oil LEVEL light will come on and car will shut off. Only happens when we get to normal operating temp.
So here is what I did. First, changed oil and filter just to be sure there was no odd clog and it was due anyway. Still had the same symptoms.
Next, I discovered that we have a separate supercharger oil reservoir. No mechanic that I spoke to knew this. I changed the oil in the reservoir because the level was low and I am sure that it has never been changed. Didn't work.
Next, I changed the oil PRESSURE sensor because even though I know it says oil level I figure it has to do with a misread on pressure. Didn't work.
Next I disconnected the wires going to the oil level sensor to test and see if it is a funky level sensor. Plus I didn't feel like changing the oil again in order to change the sensor. Didn't work.
Next. I changed the oil level sensor. Still...a no go. Drive for a bit and get up to normal operating temp and oil LEVEL light comes on and car shuts off.
Note: there is no sound. No sputtering or clanking or anything.
1995 Buick Regal, 128k miles, 3.8L V-6.Problem: When running errands around town, car will temporarily not start after 3rd or 4th stop. Vehicle cranks, has spark, has fuel pressure at fuel manifold. No codes on computer (Wish it was a '96). Car will start normally after cooling off (generally takes at least 45 minutes). No problem driving to work, parking all day, driving home. Have not tried long distance driving since problem arose, due to concern about being stuck for awhile far from home. Have determined at EGR valve is NOT a part of problem.
Sample situation: Drove 5 miles to town. Shopped for 15 minutes. Drove 2 miles further with 5 minute stop. Drove another 2 miles with 5 minute stop. Drove 1 more mile and stopped for 30-40 minutes. Car would not start. Cranks strongly, has spark and fuel pressure (don't know if fuel getting to injectors). Still would not start 30 minutes later. Left car for several hours. Started promptly and ran normally on return. Weather conditions - 90 F, low humidity. Problem has been occurring for several months. No computer codes to dive guidance.
About the Car: It has 101,00 miles on it. I haven't own this car for long (less than a month). I bought it pretty cheap to do some grocery shopping with. I have no plans to drive it more than 10 miles in a trip. I have a bicycle with a trailer, but there are days in the winter when the weather says, "No" to bicycling. I had the fuel pump and filter replaced at a shop when it wouldn't start a couple weeks ago. They said the fuel pressure was low, and it needed to be replaced. It was fine for a little while, but then it wouldn't start for the past three days now. No cranking at all. I can turn on the radio and roll windows up and down, though. I do remember seeing a Check Engine, Battery symbol sign, and a couple other lights off-hand. I'm at work right now.. so I'll have to go home to see if the Security light also was there, too.
Also! I did find an electrical line that did not go anywhere... not sure if that has anything to do with the fact that there is no window washer fluid tank (wipers do work).
After reading a little about other Buicks in the forum not cranking, I will definitely try the Security Light issue after I get home from work.
My 1995 Buick Regal seems to loose gas pressure. Have had several repairs done, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter and nothing seems to work. It seems that the repair shops are guessing at the problem. Sometimes it even stalls out completely but usually starts back up.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1995 buick Lasbre and my engine light is on my car would cut off every once and a while. but when it does it cranks right back up like its a sortage in the wires people say it is an electrical problem i thought it was my crank sensor but my car has never had a problem cranking up it sounds wonderful when it cranks up so whats my problem....
View 3 RepliesMy car developed a problem where it would lose power intermittently while running. The power would come and go before the car eventually dies. Sometimes it starts momentarily and sometimes it takes much, much longer. I've replaced the fuel pump and the camshaft sensor but the problem persists. My last options may be the crank sensor or the ignition module. 95 Buick P.A. Ultra
View 2 RepliesWhere is the PCV valve is located?
View 1 RepliesMy grandpa's old wood paneled station wagon is sick. The idle seems to be getting rougher and rougher with every time I kill the battery (I've somehow left my headlights on four times in the past two months and needed a jump). It's to a point now where if I don't throw it in neutral at stop lights and keep a tiny bit of gas on the engine it stalls out.
Notes:*When it first gets jumped after being dead, if I stop even for a second, it dies instantly.*While cruising - it is fine. *It idles smoother stopped in neutral than it does stopped and in drive. *It seems a bit rougher with the engine is cold, but still rough and can stall with the engine hot. *Some random times it idles just fine (like for example the first few seconds on start up, and then it sounds like the engine is decreasing in rpm automatically, and then it is rough again).
Could the dying battery and rough idle be related?? The battery guy says "if it starts fine, the battery is fine" (it does start fine, although keeping the radio on for 20 minutes without it running will kill it).
Also other problems with my car in case this has anything to do with it: *I have a leaky tail pipe*my ABS has recently been randomly engaging at low speeds (next problem to work on...)
I have a 1995 Buick LeSabre with just over 100,000 miles on it. Recently it has begun to shake at low speeds. The car shakes as if it were driving over a rough gravel road, and makes a sort of chugging noise when I step on the accelerator at speeds from 15-25 miles per hour. When I accelerate beyond 25, the shaking stops, and the car stops making the chugging noise as well. It drives beautifully on the interstate, but horribly when I am in town. After taking the car for a drive on the interstate for about 30 minutes one day, the shaking at low speeds actually ceased for over a week, but then came back. The "check engine" light has not come on. I maintain the car regularly, getting oil and filters changed, fluids filled, etc. I'm wondering if this sounds like it could be caused by a problem I can fix myself, or if I need to have the car looked at by a professional.
View 2 Repliesmy 1995 buick regal does not have a spark, and I have had 2 mechanics look at it. The sereptine belt broke while I was driving, I believe it was because the water pump was bad and locked up. the belt got wrapped up in the crank pulley and I removed it. The AC has not worked in a really long time so I do not think that it is that pulley. It is not getting a spark. I have replaced the water pump, and the car sounds like it wants to start but it is getting no spark to it. I have had the crank sensor tested and the coil something. none of those seems to be the problem. some one suggested that it is the computer brain. I suggested that it was the timing. Though I do not really know. the battery is good so i know it is not that. and it has fuel. and i know that the engine is getting fuel. I know that the spark plugs are not getting spark (tested with a screwdriver in the socket on metal) So what is wrong with it.
View 12 Replies1995 Buick Regal 3.8L Series 1
This is my first car and I got it at 100k and I am up to 162k. She has been good to me. A week ago I noticed that my car was shuddering and having real issues getting up to 55 (misfire). These were intermittent and seemed to go away when I put new sparks in it.
Tonight I started it and heard a good sounding pop. The car would not idle right at all. Press the gas, up to 3k rpm, and let go ... stall. I got under the hood, heard a strange sucking noise, with some cell phone light found out the vacuum hose fell off??? Put that sucker back on. Idled way better. Driveable (the brakes worked again).
Took a look around the car and noticed that some smoke was coming out of the exhaust. Not a lot, but I havent really seen exhaust from it before. My buddy followed me home and said he could smell me the entire way.
It is was dark and I lifted the hood and noticed moisture all over. I mean everywhere. Spark wires, airbox, frame, and etc... I have been looking through my books and then online. I cant find anything. What I can be looking at for a root cause? What is messed up with this car?
The equipment:1995 Buick Regal Custom 3.8
I noticed a year ago that my car would randomly stall out coming into work after a 20-25 minute drive. It then started to idle really high, very rarely. So i cleaned the throtle body, new air filter, new fuel filter, sparks, and wires. This is about where my expertise ends.
Its seemed better, however, it would act up now and again (stall) but I was fine with it.
Recently I have noticed that the car idles really high 1.5 in drive (compared to 900) and 2k in park after I have drove for 20-25 mins. So I put the computer to the car and all I have is transmission error codes which I have had since I owned the car at 80,000 miles and I am now to 160,000 miles. This car has been pretty good to me because it starts, goes forward, and backwards! What else can you really ask for. A better idle maybe?
My running lights aren't working. My father (who has been working on cars since the mid 1960's and now fiddles with small farm equipment too)- checked every single fuse - on the passenger side panel, and both right and left panels under the hood. All fuses were good. A couple of years ago I had a problem with the brake lights (not the third one) not working and it turned out it was in the turn signal lever. We had tried the fuses, wires, etc. and couldn't figure it out. So I'm thinking that the running lights are something weird like that too. Especially since I can't drive at night without any running lights.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1995 Park Avenue 3.8 with 278,000 miles. Runs fine until about 3rd gear and 55mph when if under any load at all the whole car jumps and shutters. If not under load, like going up-hill, no shutter or skip and runs smooth. If accelerator pressed at all, even when running smooth the shutter begins. Normally does not shutter at lower speeds.
Thought it was the transmission, so serviced the transmission. No improvement.
Took car to local transmission repair. They drove and do not think it is the transmission. They did check pressure at the throttle body, gas flow - let gas flow into clear container, no debris or water - and pressure was in the 52 range. Dropped some on acceleration while in park.
Shop did scan the computer, no codes. Check engine light is not on. Checked fuel filter and it was good.
They also checked all the spark plug wires and indications were that all were firing and in good order. They misted the wires with a spray bottle to see if they could detect electrical leaks - did not find any.
The car is not driven that often and was very low on gas. After leaving the transmission shop, bought gas and initially the car ran great with no hesitation or shutter even at 55mph. Shutter returned within about a mile. The car acts as if it has time to fill a container with gas it runs fine until the container looses some of the gas then it runs rough, or if you are driving along and try to take more than the normal flow out of the container the car runs rough - if they makes any sense.
Bought new gas filler cap just in case. No change.
The fuel filter and fuel pump were replaced at the same time about 2 years ago.
The EGR was replaced about 1 1/2 years ago. New plugs and wires about 1 1/2 years ago.
There is sometimes, but not all the time, a loud pitched whistle which seems to be coming from the area of the gas tank. Oddly enough if the car is in park and running while the whistle is happening, if the brake is pressed, the whistle changes in pitch to a louder and fuller whistle. When the brake is released, the whistle pitch drops in volume and more of a shrill whistle. Same happens moving transmission from P to R.
I feel I have a fuel problem, however, fuel flow, pressure, etc., seem to be ok. The mechanic drove the car with pressure gauge attached to the throttle body and didn't seem to feel that the gas was the problem upon returning from the drive.
Greetings from the desert of the SW. I have a 1995 Buick Regal I inherited from my Mom when she passed away several years ago. It had low mileage at the time so when things started going wrong, I replaced things like a rusted gas tank, head gasket, thermostat, and belts and the car got me from the Midwest to the Southwest. It now has 105K miles and I've started to smell antifreeze when I drive. The temperature gauge needle will move from the middle line towards hot but never all the way to hot when the car is idling.
As soon as I get moving again, the temperature indicator moves back down to the middle line of the gauge. The anti-freeze level in the 'jug' is fine and the level in the radiator is ok too. I'm wondering if there might be a problem with the thermostat? Unfortunately I live in an area where there aren't any "real" car mechanic garages to take it to for a check up. I'm planning a trip to Phoenix in a couple of weeks which is 5 hrs away. Since antifreeze isn't pouring out of somewhere, I'm going to drive it and hope I make it there and back again.
my 1995 buick lasbre cuts on fine and drive ok but when i start it as soon as i turn and drive itcuts off but after it cuts right back on and drive ok
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