Buick - Regal :: Front Passenger Side Shakes When Driving Over 20 MPH
Apr 4, 2011
2001 Buick Regal LS 3.8L. When I am driving over 20MPH my front passenger side of the car starts to shake. This shaking causes the steering wheel to shake as well. I am not sure what the cause is and if it something that a novice can fix. The front brakes are new with little to no wear on my rotors. I have rotated my tires to see if the shaking stopped or moved to the rear of the car. After the tire rotation the shaking persisted. If I turn the steering wheel sharply I hear a squealing noise. I do not know if that is related or not.
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I can't get my passenger door open. The car has electric door locks, they are working, the door does have a key, it works, both handles seem ok, but the door does not unlatch. I can't get the inside panel off since it is closed. I'm considering trying pop a lock???
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I have a 2002 buick regal that shakes in the front end on drivers side while driving at about 45 mph and after replaced cv axle and tortion bar bushings seems to work some but still shakes some.
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I have a 97 Buick Regal with turn signal issues. The left side will not flash but stays lit and the right side flashes fast. I have the problem isolated to the Daytime Running Light Module. (replaced turn signal stalk, flasher and bulbs). I ran a jumper wire bypassing the module and everything works as it should. Do I need to replace this module, or can I simply bypass it without it messing anything else up. I don't want my horn going off when I change the station on the radio.
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My gpa just got a 2010 f150 and when is idling the whole front passenger side seat shakes. ik that is not suppose to happen and I am wondering what is the cause of that?
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The equipment:1995 Buick Regal Custom 3.8
I noticed a year ago that my car would randomly stall out coming into work after a 20-25 minute drive. It then started to idle really high, very rarely. So i cleaned the throtle body, new air filter, new fuel filter, sparks, and wires. This is about where my expertise ends.
Its seemed better, however, it would act up now and again (stall) but I was fine with it.
Recently I have noticed that the car idles really high 1.5 in drive (compared to 900) and 2k in park after I have drove for 20-25 mins. So I put the computer to the car and all I have is transmission error codes which I have had since I owned the car at 80,000 miles and I am now to 160,000 miles. This car has been pretty good to me because it starts, goes forward, and backwards! What else can you really ask for. A better idle maybe?
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Greetings from the desert of the SW. I have a 1995 Buick Regal I inherited from my Mom when she passed away several years ago. It had low mileage at the time so when things started going wrong, I replaced things like a rusted gas tank, head gasket, thermostat, and belts and the car got me from the Midwest to the Southwest. It now has 105K miles and I've started to smell antifreeze when I drive. The temperature gauge needle will move from the middle line towards hot but never all the way to hot when the car is idling.
As soon as I get moving again, the temperature indicator moves back down to the middle line of the gauge. The anti-freeze level in the 'jug' is fine and the level in the radiator is ok too. I'm wondering if there might be a problem with the thermostat? Unfortunately I live in an area where there aren't any "real" car mechanic garages to take it to for a check up. I'm planning a trip to Phoenix in a couple of weeks which is 5 hrs away. Since antifreeze isn't pouring out of somewhere, I'm going to drive it and hope I make it there and back again.
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I own a 2000 Buick Regal, and have recently come across a gasoline smell while driving. While taking a longer drive, I realized that it would heavily smell like gasoline when I would go from park or from a stop. It really makes me nervous to drive my car not knowing what could be causing this problem. What is going on?
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My 96 Buick Regal acts like it is out of gas after driving for about 10 min. Takes awhile to start, then runs rough if at all. After it sits, it runs fine again for about 10 min. I changed fuel filter, fuel pressure sensor and fuel pressure regulator.
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Cars turns off while driving and may or may not start. The voltage fluctuates and dims the lights and such. Now it wont start.
The battery is good. The alternator is good. I put a new computer in it. I don't know what else to do.
On top of this awesomeness, I found this relay/sensor that seems to go nowhere (picture below). There is also a second something or another that you can see in the bottom right quarter (red wire grey attachment underneath cruise control module next to that bundle of wires) that seems to go nowhere. I didn't unplug these.
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My car is a 1995 Buick regal gran sport with only 64,000 miles. It has been cutting of for 2 years now. It usually cuts off when we slow down. The RPM's will suddenly drop to zero. We have taken it to 3 different mechanics over the past 2 years and have put in thousands of dollars to fix it (more that it is worth). We always just throw it in neutral and it start back up and keep driving. We were sick of paying to get it NOT fixed so we decided throwing it in neutral is ok. Well now some days it won't start. It turns over but won't fire. Some days it will start. We took it in and got it "fixed" again, but it is still doing the same thing (some days it starts, some not). It still also has the problem of cutting off while we are driving too.
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I have a 1998 Buick Regal where the steering wheel randomly locks up while I am driving it. I usually stop the car and start it back up with success. The last time this happened was after I had the supercharge engine replaced. Once it locked up it I tried to start it up. The first time it did not restart, but the second attempt worked. I have taken it two really good mechanics and neither were able to diagnose the problem. I cannot remember if I am running the air conditioner when it happens. I know that sometimes I am. What could be causing my car to randomly lock up like this?
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Tonight when I was driving home, I drove my 1999 Buick Regal through a deep puddle kinda fast- the water went up to the windows on my car. A few seconds later, when I was pulling into my parking space, my car started to make a "mrrrrrmrrr" sound and I noticed steam coming off the right side of my car where the puddle had been. I was able to park and check under the hood but there was no smoke- just some steam and a little bit of a burning rubber smell. There seemed to be some water on the engine- not a lot, it was already drying up when I took a look at it. I also noticed that there was also an oily (not all oil- just oil mixed in the the water puddles on the ground) trail from just outside the puddle to where I had parked. I let the car sit for a few minutes and then drove it a few feet to repark it. It seemed OK- it didn't make the noise again or steam. No lights came on. Is it possible that I've seriously damaged my car or could some water have come up under the hood and onto the engine causing the steam and some oily runoff?
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The front passenger car door just closed and wouldn't open from either side. It is not locked, and lock is functional. Nothing budges.
Husband uses this car as a rural mail delivery vehicle and drives it from the front passenger side. On the route today, it failed to open for him during the route -- very inconvenient to move all that mail to get in and out.
He needs to take the inside door panel off but doesn't see how with having the door open.
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The front motor mounts are bad. This has been confirmed. When I am cruising at a constant 45 or 55 mph and choose to accelerate because traffic is clearing, etc. the car will thump a bit and only slowly creep faster. It feels as if there is very little response other than the mild thumping. Getting to 65 mph takes time. The car has 70k miles and performs almost flawlessly at slower speeds. Is the thumping/lack of acceleration a symptom of the bad front motor mounts?
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Car : 03 Buick Regal
Recent Repairs : Installed new brakes, rotors, and bearings a month ago
Problems/Symptoms:
1. When going forward grinding noise ONLY when turning wheel to the right, becomes a tad louder when applying brake.
2. When going reverse cannot turn at all without hearing an AWFUL grinding noise and the tire seizing up.
3. Front left rotor (where noise is coming from) is beginning to wear heavily on the upper-outside portion in a 2" band.
Possible Solution that I thought of:The metal brake pad clip is somehow bent/not installed right so it is grinding on the rotor.
Why Can't I Check Right Now : Do not have hydraulic jack currently to get my car up. Waiting until Friday.
Today, I took the car to the shop today and they actually found that my sway bar needs to be replaced, but unfortunately they did not open up the brakes to check out the grinding noise. So when I left, I got to thinking about the brake pad clip.
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Just replaced the rear window regulator/motor assemblies on both doors. The cable guided regulator just worn out. Now the passenger side rear window will not lower at either the drivers rocker switch or the rear rocker switch. I did check for voltage at the motor connection (two wire) and have 12.4 V when raise is depressed, but 0 V when lower is selected.
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I have a 2009 toyota matrix that as over 140,00 miles when I drive down the road the front passenger side bounces up and down. There is no difference in speed from 25 all the way up to 60 plus.
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I have an old 98 Lesabre, and it runs and drives great. When I first got it I had to do the Vacuum line mod on the programmer to get the HVAC to blow out the face vents. That was the best $1.60 and 30 min I spent on a car
That mod still works and was done about 1.5 years ago, the ENTIRE time i have owned the car the temp blinks when I start the car, but the HVAC has always worked fine so I paid no attention to it. That is until 3 weeks ago when I had to replace my intake manifold. I disconnected the battery without turning the system to "off". I have been doing a bunch of reading online, and it seems I may have thrown the system's sync off by doing this.
Right now my problem is this, colder air coming from the pass side then the driver’s side. When I start the car it will seem synched for a few seconds, then it will start blinking and both vents will go FULL COLD, eventually it brings the temp back up the d-side gets hotter than the p-side. I have done the following:
- gone through AT LEAST 50 on/off cycles
- Removed the 9c fuse to try to reset
- Pulled down the glove box door and watched both the upper and lower blend doors go through there whole range of movement (which they do)
- Tried to re-sync by pushing the temp full hot, then full cold a few times in a row.
Besides getting this scanned by a tech 2, which is my last resort, is there anything else I can do?
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I have a 1999 Nissan Pathfinder. It's 4wd with a manual transmission. I was getting an intermittent problem with vibrations coming from the front passenger side wheel when driving on the highway. They recently got worse and I'd notice a slight burning smell coming from the wheel area. There would also occasionally be a metallic clicking/plonking noise coming from the wheel and a slight hissing sound. I took it into a mechanic (not my regular mechanic because he was gone for the week) and they said it has something to do with the transfer case. They said they took the front right tire off after putting it on the rack in neutral, and they couldn't get the to spin freely. They said it could be something with the drive train or transfer case, but they weren't sure without taking it apart. They said it could be something to do with the 4wd not disengaging, but again, they're not sure.
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About the Car: It has 101,00 miles on it. I haven't own this car for long (less than a month). I bought it pretty cheap to do some grocery shopping with. I have no plans to drive it more than 10 miles in a trip. I have a bicycle with a trailer, but there are days in the winter when the weather says, "No" to bicycling. I had the fuel pump and filter replaced at a shop when it wouldn't start a couple weeks ago. They said the fuel pressure was low, and it needed to be replaced. It was fine for a little while, but then it wouldn't start for the past three days now. No cranking at all. I can turn on the radio and roll windows up and down, though. I do remember seeing a Check Engine, Battery symbol sign, and a couple other lights off-hand. I'm at work right now.. so I'll have to go home to see if the Security light also was there, too.
Also! I did find an electrical line that did not go anywhere... not sure if that has anything to do with the fact that there is no window washer fluid tank (wipers do work).
After reading a little about other Buicks in the forum not cranking, I will definitely try the Security Light issue after I get home from work.
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