Buick - Regal :: Bumpy Ride At Various Speeds
Aug 24, 2013
Here over the last week or so I've noticed my car start to have a bumpy ride around 35-42 ish mph, and around 65-70 ish mph. It feels worse probably around that 40 range, and seems to be even more pronounced during acceleration. It's not a super high frequency or anything, maybe just a couple hundred HZ. I have been driving it considerably more over the last month with my new job (around 140 miles a day, mostly highway/interstate driving). I've got an oil change/ fluids checked about 3 weeks ago or so.
2000 buick regal ls ......
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I have a 2003 Honda CR-V with 150,000 miles that, up til now, has been a dream car. Now, at moderate speeds (30ish) it occasionally starts vibrating like I'm driving on a very washboarded road. It immediately quits if I let up on the gas. I don't notice it at higher speeds (freeway driving) or when going very slowly. It seems to initially be brought on by hitting a bit of rough road. I think it feels like it is in the rear of the car and it seems more noticeable on the right (passenger side). We had new shocks put on the FRONT about 3-4 months ago and I think the problem coincided with that but my husband disagrees and says he noticed it before then. We took it to our usually wonderful and reliable shop and, as could be predicted, they could not get it to replicate the problem. We took it back again and they drained and replaced all the transmission fluid thinking that might be the problem. It still does it, although I think it does it a bit less. It also seems to me that the car, which never had a very smooth ride, is even stiffer and bumpier than before. What's going on? Could this be a drive train issue? Transmission? Should we have also done the rear shocks at the same time as the front?
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I have a 2008 Mitsubishi Endeavor with 308,000 miles on it and am on the return portion of a road trip with 700 miles to go and my car is driving terribly. I had my oil changed today and they used a high mileage oil, said that my filters were fine and I needed to do a tranny and power steering flush which I said I would do once I got home. My service engine soon light has been on and every so often while idling or slowing down my car would putter and act as if it would bail out but never actually die. When I ran the computer it said it was an issue with the o2 sensor but after put a fuel cleaner in the system, it always felt better.
Not today I drove about 900 miles Saturday, did a little bit of in town driving Sunday and it started to putter while idling but what was new was the surging during acceleration and the continual puttering or bumpy ride feeling when I'm at high speeds and 2000 - 3000 rpms. I'm in the middle of nowhere and after talking to Autozone, my mechanics and trying to self diagnosis online, I've been told that I need to indure the bumpy ride to get home but when I do, will need to figure out what with the o2 sensor needs fixing or Ill need new spark plugs or a new fuel pump. all that sounds good but the way my car is puttering feels terrible! there's no odor, leaks or sound ... it just feels like I'm going 80 miles an hour but I'm going to stall out at the same time.
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I recently purchased a used 2012 Camry SE V6. I realize the SE has a sport suspension, but around 35-50 MPH it rides very bumpy. It almost feels like I have bent wheel. I've taken it to the dealership 5+ times and they said it's the torque converter, but there is no repair for it. I went to another Toyota dealership and have the field tech drive the car.
Unfortunately, the bumpy ride started to go away and the tech didn't think it was that noticeable. A couple weeks have gone by and the bumpiness is back. Also, I have new Michelin tires put on at 16K miles and the car has only 18K on it. The wheels have been balanced and the alignment was good.
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I love my 2011 Prius. It's relatively quiet in low speed drive and can't beat those MPGs. One thing that does bother me though is how bumpy the car rides. It is somewhat tolerable in the summer and fall, but as soon as I start driving on winter roads I feel like I'm riding on a tin can, feeling every single road bumps. Does the car usually feel the same for others or I need to change someone on my car. I still have the factory Assurance tires (36K miles). Are those the problem or should I get the struts checked (even though I'm pretty sure they're fine)?
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Went to sport mode again today (after TSBs) and the ride felt hard on bumpy roads, really stiff. I want to upgrade to 18's or 19's to get a better feel of the road in the summer, just want to get some input from those that have had the TSBs performed and upgrade to larger wheels as well.
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I took my 2007 Rx 350 in for a tire sensor replacement and was given a 2013 Rx loaner. While the cabin was quieter the ride was horrible. Very rough and bumpy. When I asked the service manager about the ride, he said Lexus had changed from an independent suspension to a solid suspension in 2010 and the ride was bumpy. Why would Lexus change to a less comfortable ride???
I am in the market for a new car, and wanted a new RX but the ride is so bad compared to my car, they lost my business. If you are considering an RX, get ready for a rough ride.
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I recently drove to work last week and the downtown roads suck, ever since noticing this it seems like my brand new sonata is very bumpy. Its like now I am noticing all the bumps. Tires seem to make a lot of noise too.
Also when accelerating it seems like i can feel it in my foot on the gas pedal. I would say like vibration but not a vibration if that makes sense.
Any sonata owners notice when they have their foot on the gas pedal its not so smooth. Can you feel the engine working through the pedal?
This is a brand new car with less than 2,000 km on it.
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I have a 2004 Elantra with 130000+ miles. Lately I have noticed bumpy ride along the concrete highway. It bumps like a Yo-Yo. What Could be the issue and how expensive?
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Been hearing a plastic sounding tapping noise when I ride over very bumpy roads. Turns out the floor panel in the trunk has some play and it's not padded. Well I wedged a towel Between the floor and the trunk lid and the tapping is gone. I was able to duplicate the sound by lifting and dropping the sliding floor in the trunk. Anyway I'm thrilled car is supple and quite over bumpy roads now. I went over every bumpy road I could find; nice and planted and quite now...
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I have a 1986 Toyota Van. It has been outfitter as a small RV. I changed the front and rear Shock absorbers but it is still a very bumpy ride.
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I bought a 2015 Subaru Forester. Our test ride was on a smooth road. After buying the car, I noticed how bumpy the ride is on only slightly rough roads. Also the paint has some cracks near the door edges. Have a 2015 Subaru Forester and noticed the bumpy ride.
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So I let my son drive my car for the day because i wasn't doing anything. Now once he gives it back i started driving and now my car drives kinda bumpy and makes a thudding noise the faster I go. now i confronted my son(He's 19) and he told me he went to fast over a hill. What seems to be the problem.
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I just bought a 2007 ls460 with 100k miles on the car love the vehicle but I have 2 issues with it first wind noise which I will get fix after dealing with the car bouncy ride. When I first got the vehicle i didn't notice the bouncy ride it happens when going fast on freeway 60+mph over bumpy and uneven pavements. It would bounce up and down and wobble side to side like crazy where it is scary that I will lose control if I don't hold on to the steering wheel hard.
So I replace all four shocks still no fix. My mechanic said my control arms bushing are bad. So I had all 8 front control arms replaced with OEM parts. That made a big difference on the driving and handling. It doesn't bonce as much as it did but it still bounce a little and wobbles side to side but not as much. I feel like the car is not suppose to feel this way only happens on freeway at high speed over bumps. Do I need to replace my rear control arms as well for the car to not bounce and wobble.
My mechanic said there are 10 total arms in the rear 5 each side. Will this work for my ride? Or do I need to replace new springs? I don't want to spend more money than I already have on it. I did a 4 wheel alignment and my specs in front are good but my left rear camber is -2.6 degree toe is 0.16 and my right rear is -2.0 degree toe 0.10 alignment guy said that if i change my rear control arm it might support the camber.
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My spine was damaged in an IED blast in Iraq a few years ago and my truck is getting harder and harder to drive. It sends every little bump up me. It looks like I have the original shocks on there.
What is recommended for shocks or possibly seat upgrades or any other possible solutions. I love my truck and don't want have to get something else.
The most I haul is my jeep on a trailer and occasionally two jeeps (8000lbs)...
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About the Car: It has 101,00 miles on it. I haven't own this car for long (less than a month). I bought it pretty cheap to do some grocery shopping with. I have no plans to drive it more than 10 miles in a trip. I have a bicycle with a trailer, but there are days in the winter when the weather says, "No" to bicycling. I had the fuel pump and filter replaced at a shop when it wouldn't start a couple weeks ago. They said the fuel pressure was low, and it needed to be replaced. It was fine for a little while, but then it wouldn't start for the past three days now. No cranking at all. I can turn on the radio and roll windows up and down, though. I do remember seeing a Check Engine, Battery symbol sign, and a couple other lights off-hand. I'm at work right now.. so I'll have to go home to see if the Security light also was there, too.
Also! I did find an electrical line that did not go anywhere... not sure if that has anything to do with the fact that there is no window washer fluid tank (wipers do work).
After reading a little about other Buicks in the forum not cranking, I will definitely try the Security Light issue after I get home from work.
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I am told I am possibly having some engine misfires and I need to get my error codes read. The problem is I don't want to drive the car to an auto parts store to get read because the engine is really rough and bumpy. So what kind of code reader to get, OBD I, OBD II, CAN..etc??? I have a 2000 Buick Park Ave. I have a mechanic coming over tomorrow, and it seems he doesn't have a code reader off hand, so I gotta pick one up...
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I have a Buick regal 1996 v6 3.8l . SO my car tends to over heat really fast with the reservoir still nearly full of coolant also my fans also turn on really late.. Ive came down to the conclusion that it might be the temperature sensor idk whatelse to do. Ive changed the thermostat about a month ago.
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I have a 1999 Buick Regal GS with a supercharged 3.8 liter engine and 161,000 miles. I bought the car off of my uncle and he said he would have to change plug wires every month to month and a half because it would start missing so bad. When I first drove the car it would quit on me at red lights and in parking lots, it only seemed to do it at low idle speeds. I live on a hill with a blacktop road and I had to give it a lot of gas just to pull the hill it was missing so bad. The plug wire had a lifetime warranty on them so I replaced them and it stopped quitting on me but I still had a bad miss at random but not as bad it would just be like hard jerks. I added sea foam fuel injection cleaner and had the fuel filter replaced. The mechanic checked the spark plugs and he said they were like new AC Delco. I also cleaned the MAF Sensor (the mechanic told me to and how) because the engine did not run steady at idle and it seemed to work that, but not the miss. Could my problem be the plug wires? They are carquest brand 7mm wires.
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My 1995 Buick Regal seems to loose gas pressure. Have had several repairs done, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter and nothing seems to work. It seems that the repair shops are guessing at the problem. Sometimes it even stalls out completely but usually starts back up.
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I just picked up a 1991 Buick Regal for a good deal, but already the repair costs to get this thing up to speed are mounting :
Right now I'm dealing with all four tires losing pressure. The 24 year old car still has its original wheels (15 inch aluminum) and I'm assuming that they are losing pressure at the seal. The tires are only about a year old and the stems look okay, so do you think I'm on the right track?
There is one strange part to all of this: The vehicle with its equipped tires is rated at 30 PSI and if I fill them to 30 they are all down about five pounds within a few hours or after a drive. However, they do not lose more than or much more than 5 PSI. The front tires lose more air and lose it faster, but the lowest I've seen them is 23. Is only losing a few pounds of air and not going flat evidence of a seal leak or am I in the twilight zone?
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