Buick - Parkavenue :: Slight Squeaking From Under Hood Around Engine Pulleys
Nov 23, 2011
I have a 2000 Buick Park Ave, and recently since the cold weather is coming around I am starting to hear a slight squeaking from under my hood around the engine pulleys. It doesn't make noise upon start ( no screeching or clicking) but after its started and starts to idle I am hearing a slight chirping, and I have notice that as the weather has gotten colder that chirping/ squeaking is starting to get a little louder. After The car warms up the chirping/ squeaking seems to go away but is this a problem I should Be worried about? Is this a major issue or a minor issue?
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Get in my car, try to start it and BAM it hits me. As I turn the key, the engine cranks up quick, kinda too quick, if you ask me. As I go to adjust my radio, I feel my car start to jump around and shake pretty rough. As I look at my gauges, I see my check engine light start to flash. So instead of trying to drive away, I turn it off and try to start it again. Same thing happens!! So I try it again and finally a normal start. Whew, I thought that was close. But oddly enough my check engine light comes on and stays on this time, no more flashing and the engine feels fine. What the problem could be? Is it safe to drive my car?
2000 Buick Park Avenue 3.8 auto....
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I have a 1993 Buick Park Ave Ultra with 127,000 mi and it has a rattle like noise in the engine. I took it to the mechanic and he said it was the supercharger and that if that went out the car would not run. I would like info on the supercharger, eg. is it critical for just riding around town and exactly what it does, and how expense is it to fix/replace.
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I own a 1999 Park Avenue Ultra. Recently it's developed a problem where the engine just stops when I'm driving. It happens at all speeds--on the highway, on local roads, in parking lots, or just idling. Starting up the car after it stalls is not problem; it always starts right up. The car stalls at least once a day after it's all warmed up. Additional stalls can occur, but there is no quantifiable interval between additional stalls. This car has spent most of its 148,000 miles in the upper Midwest. This past winter I drove to car to Arizona, and that's when the stalling started. One mechanic looked at the car, but couldn't find anything wrong and couldn't get it to stall when he took it out for an extended drive. What the problem might be?
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Now I know I'm having problems when I go to start my car, and the check engine light starts flashing and my engine is idling really erratic. What could this be? I have a 2000 Buick Park Ave. I went to start it today.... problems. I have had this problem before and it seemed to correct itself.
I started my car. It was kinda rough when I started it. My engine started trembling and check engine light started flashing. I turned my car off and back on and it went away. No check engine light...no trembling..nothing!! Well, at least til now. I went to start it up and the same thing happened...really rough idle and my check engine light started flashing.
I was recently told it could be a misfire, but I was also told by a family mechanic that it could just be a faulty plug or shorted wires. Also, recently when I have been driving, my car has been feeling a little sluggish right around the 2nd gear mark, and I have watched my voltage gauge on my dash jump around a lot, anywhere from 11v to 13v. Could this be a symptom? Or the effect of something else? I don't want to get ripped of for something as simple as changing some spark plugs or wires.
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I am told I am possibly having some engine misfires and I need to get my error codes read. The problem is I don't want to drive the car to an auto parts store to get read because the engine is really rough and bumpy. So what kind of code reader to get, OBD I, OBD II, CAN..etc??? I have a 2000 Buick Park Ave. I have a mechanic coming over tomorrow, and it seems he doesn't have a code reader off hand, so I gotta pick one up...
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I have recently been having some movement in the rear of my car...I can mainly feel it when I am going under 20 mph. I have had replaced the two rear tires with other used tires cuz my original tires were going bald. Can this be the problem? Can Broken belts on the tires or "BAD TIRES" can cause this or is it another problem I should be worried about i.e sway bar links/ sway bar, etc.? 2000 buick PA 3.8
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My Buick Park Ave 2000 is having an acceleration problem. It seems to be skipping at different times. It happens more often at lower speeds than higher speeds. It still happens at higher speeds though. I was on a long trip of about 180 miles and on the highway it seemed fine. What do you think is causing this? I did take it to a garage and they couldn't find anything wrong with it and of course true to form nothing happened when they took it for a spin. They did computer checks and everything was fine.
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I own a 1999 Buick Park Avenue - that stalls. There is no pattern to the stalling.It stalls when I start driving, after I have been driving for a long period or when I just begin driving. It stalls when I turn a corner or on the highway, when I am at a stop sign or a red light. It is baffling. My mechanic has tried a number of solutions, including replacing the crankshaft sensor, however, it still stalls.
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I recently had the radiator on my car replaced and wen I got it back the temperature and gas gauge needles are both blown past the HOT sign and past the full sign on my gas gauge and is sitting under the little black piece under the the cold side and under the empty side. it was obviously messed with and completely turned around but why is it like this? will it reset itself or should I take i.e., back to the mechanic to have it fixed by him?
2000 buick park avenue....
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I have a 1995 Park Avenue 3.8 with 278,000 miles. Runs fine until about 3rd gear and 55mph when if under any load at all the whole car jumps and shutters. If not under load, like going up-hill, no shutter or skip and runs smooth. If accelerator pressed at all, even when running smooth the shutter begins. Normally does not shutter at lower speeds.
Thought it was the transmission, so serviced the transmission. No improvement.
Took car to local transmission repair. They drove and do not think it is the transmission. They did check pressure at the throttle body, gas flow - let gas flow into clear container, no debris or water - and pressure was in the 52 range. Dropped some on acceleration while in park.
Shop did scan the computer, no codes. Check engine light is not on. Checked fuel filter and it was good.
They also checked all the spark plug wires and indications were that all were firing and in good order. They misted the wires with a spray bottle to see if they could detect electrical leaks - did not find any.
The car is not driven that often and was very low on gas. After leaving the transmission shop, bought gas and initially the car ran great with no hesitation or shutter even at 55mph. Shutter returned within about a mile. The car acts as if it has time to fill a container with gas it runs fine until the container looses some of the gas then it runs rough, or if you are driving along and try to take more than the normal flow out of the container the car runs rough - if they makes any sense.
Bought new gas filler cap just in case. No change.
The fuel filter and fuel pump were replaced at the same time about 2 years ago.
The EGR was replaced about 1 1/2 years ago. New plugs and wires about 1 1/2 years ago.
There is sometimes, but not all the time, a loud pitched whistle which seems to be coming from the area of the gas tank. Oddly enough if the car is in park and running while the whistle is happening, if the brake is pressed, the whistle changes in pitch to a louder and fuller whistle. When the brake is released, the whistle pitch drops in volume and more of a shrill whistle. Same happens moving transmission from P to R.
I feel I have a fuel problem, however, fuel flow, pressure, etc., seem to be ok. The mechanic drove the car with pressure gauge attached to the throttle body and didn't seem to feel that the gas was the problem upon returning from the drive.
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I recently bought a 1997 Park Avenue and have a couple of repair questions.1) The car is in need of struts/shocks. The rear has air shocks. Before I purchase new air shocks, how do I test the compressor to make sure there is no problem? If the compressor is bad, is it possible to install conversion shocks and do away with the compressor/ air shocks?2) The previous owner says the cruise control does not work. On rare occasions it will work for a brief time during the winter. What things can I check out? Someone suggested checking the brake light switch.
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The cruise control stopped working. The "Cruise" light comes on, but the speed does not hold.Where should I start looking? Where is the control module?
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on an 1979 Buick Park Ave, can't change from 1st gear to drive. Preliminary diagnosis is a low vacuum at the transmission regulator valve(?). Car has 207,xxx miles. Is this a carburetor problem that may be clogged with carbon deposits, or what else can be causing the problem. Gear change needs a higher vacuum on the transmission regulator
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The problem began with the battery going down slowly while the car sat. Then the blower motor wouldn't shut off, even with the key turned off. With the blower motor disconnected, the battery no longer discharges. I bought and installed a (used) climate control panel but the problem persists. I'm not sure where to go from here.
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i have a 1994 buick park avenue non supercharge. I replaced the harmonic balancer because it was split all the way around. ok then i start having low fuel pressure. it was at at 22psi so i got the fuel pump, strainer and filter replaced i also notice my cat was turning red. I also got the cat replaced and part of the new one is starting to turn red. I am experiencing poor acceleration ...my car shakes but shakes more when im in drive and foot on the brake..i can tell the difference in the acceleration from when i put the new cat on..it picked up a little bit but its not how its suppose to be. I also notice two of my coil packs have a slight crack across the top by the numbers....
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The problem occurs under all conditions, cold start, hot start, weather doesn't play a factor. When you turn the key it will sometimes fire right away and then die or you'll have to turn it over for a few seconds. I now just rest my foot on the gas and press it slightly the second that it fires. It will sort of stumble and surge for a second or two and then it is fine. A few times it has died at a stop light, although not recently. It has has 45,000 miles and isn't driven very often. I've scoured the internet and have come to the conclusion that it is getting too much fuel, hence when pressing the gas to open the throttle body to let more air in works. It seems to be a rather common problem with this engine but I can't seem to find an actual smoking gun fix posted anywhere. Some suggest the fuel pressure regulator. I don't have a fuel pressure tester but I the regulator isn't leaking out of the vent tube. Coolant temp sensor maybe?
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So my brake lights aren't working on my 1997 Buick Park Avenue, not even my middle one. All my bulbs, fuses, relays are good. My tail lights and hazards work fine. The circuit has continuity when the pedal is pressed and power going into the brake switch when the pedal is not pressed, but when pressed it has no power going in or out it just cuts off. I figured it was probably a ground then but I checked and all of the grounds are good.
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Most cars have either an idiot light or a volt meter. This 1995 Buick Park Avenue has both in the same pod. The customer complains that the red light comes on intermittently, but the voltage continues to read just above 13 volts. Sometimes it's dim or flickering, others it's bright. It seems to be more prevalent when the headlights are off, rather than when it is under a heavier load with them or the A/C on. I have not had an opportunity to see the car. It has not failed to start.
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I have a 2003 Buick Park Avenue with the 3.8L V6, not supercharged. If the pressure control solenoid on the 4T65E transmission can be changed through the pan? I ask because I get hard shifting if the car is running in stop and go traffic where the engine cooling fans are starting to cycle. Simply shutting the car off and immediately restarting clears the hard shifting. Otherwise the transmission shifts smoothly. Searching the internet suggests the PCS is getting tired. I wouldn't mind throwing a $50 part in as an attempt to cure this issue if the average Joe can swap it out.
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Car drives excellent in dry weather, smooth, no hesitation. or misses. While driving in the rain, the car will start running "REAL" ruff and then will stall. I try to start it and the motor just turns over, sounds like no gas or not firing. I will keep trying and after about 6 times it will fire, start and quits, if lucky with a few more tries I can get it started and needs to rev up to 4,000, sometimes it will stay there with a miss or RPM works down and quits. When lucky I can nurse it home and then won't start for 3 days.
I have replaced Crankcase position sensor, (made shield for side at wheel well and shield on bottom), camshaft sensor, spark plugs and wires, had coil packs checked, checked plate that coil packs set on, cleaned battery posts, checked and pulled on wires to coil pack plate, none lose and had continuity, put silicone sealant at end of wires to protect from moisture and hold them in replace. Sprayed top of engine with silicone spray and flex seal. Even had intake manifold gasket replaced in case it was sucking in water. Replacing crankshaft position sensor did some good, it makes for faster starts.
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