Buick - Parkavenue :: 1997 - Brake Lights Aren't Working
Jan 22, 2015
So my brake lights aren't working on my 1997 Buick Park Avenue, not even my middle one. All my bulbs, fuses, relays are good. My tail lights and hazards work fine. The circuit has continuity when the pedal is pressed and power going into the brake switch when the pedal is not pressed, but when pressed it has no power going in or out it just cuts off. I figured it was probably a ground then but I checked and all of the grounds are good.
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I recently bought a 1997 Park Avenue and have a couple of repair questions.1) The car is in need of struts/shocks. The rear has air shocks. Before I purchase new air shocks, how do I test the compressor to make sure there is no problem? If the compressor is bad, is it possible to install conversion shocks and do away with the compressor/ air shocks?2) The previous owner says the cruise control does not work. On rare occasions it will work for a brief time during the winter. What things can I check out? Someone suggested checking the brake light switch.
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The lower rear brake lights on my Venture aren't working, while the high light at the top of the door still works. I've replaced both circuit boards on the driver and passenger side, and all of the bulbs are fine. What I might have missed along the way?
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The cruise control stopped working. The "Cruise" light comes on, but the speed does not hold.Where should I start looking? Where is the control module?
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Car drives excellent in dry weather, smooth, no hesitation. or misses. While driving in the rain, the car will start running "REAL" ruff and then will stall. I try to start it and the motor just turns over, sounds like no gas or not firing. I will keep trying and after about 6 times it will fire, start and quits, if lucky with a few more tries I can get it started and needs to rev up to 4,000, sometimes it will stay there with a miss or RPM works down and quits. When lucky I can nurse it home and then won't start for 3 days.
I have replaced Crankcase position sensor, (made shield for side at wheel well and shield on bottom), camshaft sensor, spark plugs and wires, had coil packs checked, checked plate that coil packs set on, cleaned battery posts, checked and pulled on wires to coil pack plate, none lose and had continuity, put silicone sealant at end of wires to protect from moisture and hold them in replace. Sprayed top of engine with silicone spray and flex seal. Even had intake manifold gasket replaced in case it was sucking in water. Replacing crankshaft position sensor did some good, it makes for faster starts.
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I have a 1997 Buick Park Avenue with a 3800 series II motor that runs perfectly in dry weather. However, in wet conditions, rain melting snow, etc. it will begin to miss and throw out a P0300 OBDII engine code. This is the code for multiple random misfire. If I leave it to idle on its own it will get worse and die out right. Sometimes restarting it is an option though it still runs rough, but I can limp it to somewhere I can work on it. I think its electrical, since it doesn't seem to get the spark it should though fuel doesn't seem to be a problem as you can smell it after a bit of cranking.
I've been battling with this thing for over a year so far and have replaced the following, ECU, all 3 coil packs, spark plugs/wires(newest parts), mass airflow sensor, cam position sensor, ERG?(emissions deal I believe, mechanic friend put it on) valve. I had the battery trickle charged and tested at an Autozone, I haven't had the alternator tested yet.
Its a very frustrating problem, as far as I can tell I've replaced everything on the ignition system with the hopes that it did the job only to get stranded during the next long rain. It does take quite a while in wet weather for it to start acting up, but once it starts missing a little bit, it doesn't stop until the entire engine compartment has had a few days to dry. Engine temp doesn't seem tosolve the problem dry out. I'd also like to note that I've noticed on this latest trouble that the interior lights have been flickering and headlights too. It may have been doing this earlier, but I hadn't noticed if it was. I'm going to check what kind of voltages the alternator is throwing out next time I have it running.
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The power steering is not working in our 2001 Buick Park Avenue. It worked yesterday but today, nothing, at all. We did not hear any noises. The fluid level is good and I don't believe that there is a fuse, as this runs off of the drive belt. The fluid did smell a bit "burnt".
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About 2 weeks ago my 1997 Buick Park Ave (115,000 miles) began running bad during a heavy rain storm. It was running fine. Then all of a sudden at a stop light the motor hesitated and wanted to stall. I nursed the gas peddle and limped home and turned the car off. The car hesitated and sputtered all the way home as if I was running out of gas.The next day the car would not start. It turned over but would not start. I tried starting the car for three days. My mechanic friend later diagnosed the car and stated the computer was not functioning correctly. He replaced the computer. The new computer seemed to correct the problem.
The car ran great for the next 2 weeks. Yesterday, it was raining hard while I drove the car about 150 miles without any problem. Then suddenly again the motor started running badly. Again, the motor wanted to stall and hesitate as if I was running out of gas. I limped home again. This morning I tried to start the car without any luck. In addition to installing a new computer, In the last 2 months I have changed all the fuel injectors and installed new spark plugs.I have also changed the fuel pump and repaired the fuel tank. My mechanic say the cam sensor and crank sensor are operating correctly. There is spark coming from the coil packs and to the spark plugs. I do not want to randomly change parts.
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courtesy "dome" lights do not work when doors are opened or when dash switch is activated. Fuse (under driver seat) and Relay switch have been replaced. Can hear relay switch activated with dash switch. Lights work individual (toggle style ceiling lights). Dash lights dim with dash switch.
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Noticed this afternoon that as it got dark outside, all dash and door lights aren't working.
The gauge cluster lights, VERY dimly, but delays by appx 2 seconds before coming on? Only switch light that still works right is the Red ring on the Headlight switch.
Again this is all lights, except lights in headliner work fine, gauge cluster lights very dimly with a delay?
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I am currently putting the interior of my car back together after a water issue force me to remove everything and have just put the carpet in. While stopping for the night, I noticed that all the overhead lighting doesn't work, the key fob can't lock the car, I can't open the trunk via the button on the door and even if I close all my doors, the car door open light stays on. However, the dash, vents, radio, gauges and headlights work, the car starts, the headlights and tail lights work, and the gas door button works. The ONLY thing I did was remove a #53 block relay that was wired into the rear fogs, since the way the fogs were wired up, they weren't working.
So I removed the relay and wired the fogs directly to the headlight switch. The wiring of the relay was, one wire going to the #9 pin on the headlight switch, one wire going to the 12V source and the last one going to a ground, nothing else. I didn't touch any other wiring or pull any wiring out. What my car is doing now? I was hoping to have it together to go to MIVE's chilifest tomorrow, but this electrical issue makes me uneasy about driving my car over an hour from home without a trusty tow vehicle to rescue me if it goes south.
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I have a 2000 EX 7.3L ... The power windows aren't working and neither is the interior lights. I am hoping it is a couple of fuses. Problem is that I can't find a fuse diagram and I don't have any knowledge about changing the fuses. Do I need to change them both under the hood and under the dash? Which fuses I need to look at changing?
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Got my 02 f350 stuck in the mud a while back and had to get a deuce and a half to pull me out (F250 couldnt do it). Anyway since then my front parking/running lights don't work.
-I have checked the voltage at the bulb socket....nada
-I have of course checked the fuse and its fine (checked ALL fuses)
-ALL other running lights are working including top clearance lights, dually fender lights, etc.
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I noticed that my break lights are not working. Checked the fuses . The break light on the cab works fine. The blinkers and emergency flasher work great. i checked the bulbs and nothing wrong there. Truck runs and drives great. But no break lights.
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Our son has a 97 Chevy C/K pickup truck and told me about a problem that I thought was easy to solve, and we tried, but it wasn't. The driver's side front turn signal flashes fast. I checked the rear lights on that side and the turn signal wasn't working at all, let alone the tail lights, so I replaced the bulbs. They're the kind with the 2 filaments. I noticed the old bulbs were covered with some nasty yellow corrosion. Now the turn signal problem is the same and still no brake light on that side but he has tail lights at night. I tried to clean up the corrosion in the circuit board (none on the bottom light, which is the reverse light) with a neighbor's wire brush but it didn't change anything, so he suggested I change the circuit board.
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I have a 1997 Ford F250. My trailer lights will work, but I have no brake lights or turn lights. I have checked all my fuses and all the fuses are good.
I was told it was probably my trailer tow relay, so I bought it at O'Reilly's, but I don't know which relay it is exactly.
I just want to know which relay number it is so I can replace it. And, if this doesn't sound right, is there something else I should be trying?
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I have a '97 F150 and the trailer break lights and turn lights are not working. I have checked the fuses under the dash and hood and all fuses look fine. I have also tested the trailer on another vehicle and checked the wires. Trailer lights worked and wires and connections looked fine. In searching the forum I noticed a similar problem [URL] .... and it was fixed through a third fuse box that was not in the manual. I haven't been a user long enough to send e-mails, but it looks like WhipsnHorses was the one that provided the answer before.
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I have recently been having some movement in the rear of my car...I can mainly feel it when I am going under 20 mph. I have had replaced the two rear tires with other used tires cuz my original tires were going bald. Can this be the problem? Can Broken belts on the tires or "BAD TIRES" can cause this or is it another problem I should be worried about i.e sway bar links/ sway bar, etc.? 2000 buick PA 3.8
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Just Bought 97 Ranger 2.3L 5 speed. Everything worked except interior cab light and cab brake light. Also the wipers and A/C blower only work on highest speed when I bought it. I assumed there was a problem with the switches, bulbs and/or fuses. But when I picked it up last evening I noticed the dash lights were very dim on the way home. Then when I got home I shut everything off and removed the key. I then opened the drivers door and touched the brake pedal and the dash lights and the parking lights came on along with the "key in ignition" bell alarm each time I touch the brake pedal. If I close the door the dash and parking lights come on but the key in ignition does not sound. With so many things malfunctioning I don't know where to start.
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My Buick Park Ave 2000 is having an acceleration problem. It seems to be skipping at different times. It happens more often at lower speeds than higher speeds. It still happens at higher speeds though. I was on a long trip of about 180 miles and on the highway it seemed fine. What do you think is causing this? I did take it to a garage and they couldn't find anything wrong with it and of course true to form nothing happened when they took it for a spin. They did computer checks and everything was fine.
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I own a 1999 Buick Park Avenue - that stalls. There is no pattern to the stalling.It stalls when I start driving, after I have been driving for a long period or when I just begin driving. It stalls when I turn a corner or on the highway, when I am at a stop sign or a red light. It is baffling. My mechanic has tried a number of solutions, including replacing the crankshaft sensor, however, it still stalls.
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