When I turn on the car the internal temp number flashes for about a minute. The AC blows cold and I haven't noticed any issues with the HVAC system. Why is it flashing?
View 9 RepliesI have a 1995 Park Avenue 3.8 with 278,000 miles. Runs fine until about 3rd gear and 55mph when if under any load at all the whole car jumps and shutters. If not under load, like going up-hill, no shutter or skip and runs smooth. If accelerator pressed at all, even when running smooth the shutter begins. Normally does not shutter at lower speeds.
Thought it was the transmission, so serviced the transmission. No improvement.
Took car to local transmission repair. They drove and do not think it is the transmission. They did check pressure at the throttle body, gas flow - let gas flow into clear container, no debris or water - and pressure was in the 52 range. Dropped some on acceleration while in park.
Shop did scan the computer, no codes. Check engine light is not on. Checked fuel filter and it was good.
They also checked all the spark plug wires and indications were that all were firing and in good order. They misted the wires with a spray bottle to see if they could detect electrical leaks - did not find any.
The car is not driven that often and was very low on gas. After leaving the transmission shop, bought gas and initially the car ran great with no hesitation or shutter even at 55mph. Shutter returned within about a mile. The car acts as if it has time to fill a container with gas it runs fine until the container looses some of the gas then it runs rough, or if you are driving along and try to take more than the normal flow out of the container the car runs rough - if they makes any sense.
Bought new gas filler cap just in case. No change.
The fuel filter and fuel pump were replaced at the same time about 2 years ago.
The EGR was replaced about 1 1/2 years ago. New plugs and wires about 1 1/2 years ago.
There is sometimes, but not all the time, a loud pitched whistle which seems to be coming from the area of the gas tank. Oddly enough if the car is in park and running while the whistle is happening, if the brake is pressed, the whistle changes in pitch to a louder and fuller whistle. When the brake is released, the whistle pitch drops in volume and more of a shrill whistle. Same happens moving transmission from P to R.
I feel I have a fuel problem, however, fuel flow, pressure, etc., seem to be ok. The mechanic drove the car with pressure gauge attached to the throttle body and didn't seem to feel that the gas was the problem upon returning from the drive.
Most cars have either an idiot light or a volt meter. This 1995 Buick Park Avenue has both in the same pod. The customer complains that the red light comes on intermittently, but the voltage continues to read just above 13 volts. Sometimes it's dim or flickering, others it's bright. It seems to be more prevalent when the headlights are off, rather than when it is under a heavier load with them or the A/C on. I have not had an opportunity to see the car. It has not failed to start.
View 4 RepliesI recently bought a 1997 Park Avenue and have a couple of repair questions.1) The car is in need of struts/shocks. The rear has air shocks. Before I purchase new air shocks, how do I test the compressor to make sure there is no problem? If the compressor is bad, is it possible to install conversion shocks and do away with the compressor/ air shocks?2) The previous owner says the cruise control does not work. On rare occasions it will work for a brief time during the winter. What things can I check out? Someone suggested checking the brake light switch.
View 5 RepliesThe cruise control stopped working. The "Cruise" light comes on, but the speed does not hold.Where should I start looking? Where is the control module?
View 4 RepliesGot a strange one here. 1995 Buick Park Avenue, supercharged 3800, 159K miles... an older car, but an unmolested one. A little over a week ago I began to notice an occasional miss when cruising along at highway speeds, along with a slightly rougher idle. Both the fuel filter and the plugs/wires predated my ownership of the car (a little more than 6 months); so seeing no obvious culprit, I replaced them and hoped for improvement.
Unfortunately, neither had any impact. The missing continued to become more noticeable. It was never present under acceleration. Most of it was like a split-second long version of "bucking" that could be observed while cruising at lower (<2000) RPMs. It was also very noticeable at idle. Eventually a code was set: P0341, camshaft sensor issue. If the story had ended there, it would have been just another night in the garage. But it didn't.
As I was noticing the aforementioned symptom increase, I also noticed my voltmeter would occasionally "twitch" in the downward direction. Eventually I had an incident where I came to a stoplight... transmission in Drive, foot on brake, gauge dropped to around 10-11v. It returned to 14v momentarily, but dropped back down, held there for several seconds, returned, etc. No particular rhyme or rhythm. Of course my first guess was that the alternator was failing; a separate problem from the other.
I checked all the relevant connections (at the battery, at the alternator, etc), and cleaned them for good measure. All were tight, relatively clean, and the cables showed no resistance on the ohmmeter. It happened that I had another correct alternator on hand (used/working pull), so I swapped it in. No change. I reinstalled the original and was back where I started.
On my most recent drive, I noticed both issues had become very noticeable. The drop in voltage was happening at nearly every stop, and the missing was happening a few times per minute while coasting along. There seemed to be some correlation between the missing and voltage fluctuating, but it wasn't absolute.
I decided to attack the voltage issue again. Re-checked all the cables; same result as before (all OK). Looked all over the car for possible bad grounds, loose connections, or other visible problems, but found none. My next thought was to run a jumper from B+ to the voltage regulator's Sense input (have seen issues there on more than a few older vehicles) - but after reading that this car uses the PCM as the voltage regulator, I didn't proceed.
Just to be certain I'm going to have the alternator tested by the local auto parts store. But I suspect it'll pass.
On longer trips, over 20+ minutes that the interior temp does not hold the current set climate control temp? If using sync on both sides, the temp in the cabin seems to creep down and you have to keep upping the setting and then reduce it because its too hot.
We have an older 2001 Infiniti I30 and it keeps adjusting to hold the right temp.
The buttons to change the temperature in my 2010 Prius don't do a thing... The temperature is cool-ish as long as you have the AC turned on, and stays the exact same as you increase the temperature until you get to 85 and it maxes out, then it starts to get warm. As soon as you go to 84, it's cool again.
View 14 RepliesSo today it was 101 and I figured I would put the AC on auto but when I set it to auto the temperature defaults to 72. Is this normal and can I change it? It seems like the climate control in auto mode go off of the outside temp, if hot outside blow cold inside and vice versa. What is the point to auto AC if I manually have to set the temp?
View 6 RepliesThere’s a problem with my climate-control system. When I turn the fan on, there is no air blowing through the outlets on the instrument-panel. (There is air blowing thru the 2 vents immediately above the floor, and some air blowing at the base of the windshield). This problem exists regardless of what speed I turn the fan on, and regardless of which climate-control setting I choose (or whether I turn on the A/C).
This problem WAS occurring on an intermittent basis, and seemed to develop in RESPONSE TO my turning the knob to “defrost.” Now, however, the problem seems to be permanent. I wonder whether the basic problem is with the round knob that controls the various climate-control settings, as this knob seems somewhat hard to turn.
I have a 2004 Buick Century sedan, with automatic transmission (4speed) w/overdrive, V-6 engine 3.1 L.
When I start my 2011 Hyundai Sonata Limited the left temperature control knob flashes intermittently for a few seconds. See 17 second video. This has been happening for the past three weeks. What is causing this and how to repair it?
View 3 RepliesI just purchased a 2014 Avalon XLE Touring. One thing that seems to be a slight problem is the A/C setting. To get the car to cool down I have to turn the setting down to about 66 to make it comfortable and I know it is not 66 degrees in the car. Is there some way to calibrate the temp reading?
View 14 RepliesI haven't been able to find the solution to change C temp readings to F on my 2009 ES350. The car is Canadian and I'm in the US and although it's not a big deal I'd like to change it over. The importation company already changed over the speedo and so the cluster reads F degrees and Miles. Just that one last change to make it all match up.
I read an old thread on the earlier generation that the body control module needs to be changed. But, nothing on this generation. Lots of people trying to go metric from English so maybe we could even trade parts to make it happen.
From time to time, climate control will stop working. Buttons are not lit up or responsive, fans do not work, and computer doesn't show outside temperature. Problem can last a day, an hour, 10 minutes, or any other time frame. Most of the time once it stops working it will not start working until left parked and locked overnight. Sometimes when we start driving it would all of a sudden start working on its own. This has happened during multiple seasons and multiple weather conditions.
I took the car to Lexus dealer who decided it would be a smart idea to replace the whole climate control unit in the dash, well this past weekend the problem occurred again with brand new climate control unit in place.
My 2009 Sonata Limited always has the front window defroster come on in cooler temps when the climate control is set to AUTO. This is aggravating since it shouldn't do that. I took it in for service last year at this time and they didn't find anything wrong and I gave up arguing with the dealer about it.
Is there a sensor or something that is out of adjustment? It comes one when the temp is about 40F or lower and you just start the car after it's been sitting cold. I don't notice it so much when I am out on multiple errands.
Another thing that I notice is that I can never just turn the fans on for air circulation when the temps are moderate, not needing A/C or heat. If it turn the fan on, it always seems to blow cold air feeling like the A/C is on, even if it is not in AUTO mode. I complained about the same thing and the dealer said the unit is operating OK.
i have a 01 b5 GLX 2.8L with the automatic climate control, well on occasion my temp will be reading fine than all the sudden drop to -36 degrees in 4 degree increments. when this happens my ac thinks its cold outside so it stops blowing cold air and blows hot air. i have to let the car sit with the ignition off for 15 min before it will reset. Is it my temp sensor that's bad and if so where is it located at?
View 10 RepliesRX450h Climate Control ... This is annoying and all my riders complain about the A/C Auto mode on this car. Here is the issue in Auto Mode with the inside temp set at 72 degrees, and the outside temp is cold anywhere from 55 to 65 degrees the A/C always blows cold air into the car. I can never get heat to flow into the car. The manual says that auto controls the a/c flow, fan speed, and vents like auto in almost every car. What is wrong here? The A/C is always on blowing cold air regardless of the temperature set inside the car. To me it seems that the temperature setting for both passenger and driver do not work.
View 12 RepliesWhere is the ignition control module on a 95 buick regal custom 3.8L ....
View 1 RepliesI have recently been having some movement in the rear of my car...I can mainly feel it when I am going under 20 mph. I have had replaced the two rear tires with other used tires cuz my original tires were going bald. Can this be the problem? Can Broken belts on the tires or "BAD TIRES" can cause this or is it another problem I should be worried about i.e sway bar links/ sway bar, etc.? 2000 buick PA 3.8
View 5 RepliesMy Buick Park Ave 2000 is having an acceleration problem. It seems to be skipping at different times. It happens more often at lower speeds than higher speeds. It still happens at higher speeds though. I was on a long trip of about 180 miles and on the highway it seemed fine. What do you think is causing this? I did take it to a garage and they couldn't find anything wrong with it and of course true to form nothing happened when they took it for a spin. They did computer checks and everything was fine.
View 2 RepliesI own a 1999 Buick Park Avenue - that stalls. There is no pattern to the stalling.It stalls when I start driving, after I have been driving for a long period or when I just begin driving. It stalls when I turn a corner or on the highway, when I am at a stop sign or a red light. It is baffling. My mechanic has tried a number of solutions, including replacing the crankshaft sensor, however, it still stalls.
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