Buick - Lesabre :: ABS Malfunction - Brake Pedal Not Functioning Properly
Aug 1, 2016
My brake pedal needs to be practically be pushed to the floor for the car to stop. I went to a Munro Muffler and they replaced all brake pads and turned the rotors. The problem of the pedal to the floor did not go away. The Munro tech struggled with this then popped me with this estimate - brake lines master cylinder to ABS / brake lines ABS to front brake flex hoses connections, / brake lines - ABS to rear junctions fittings at the passenger front door. Also they want to sell me a rear wheel bearing because the temperature at one point was very high. The total estimate is $840. I can remove the Rear wheel bearing to bring the estimate down to 500. I asked if we could do lines from ABS to Master Cylinder only and the tech advised against it. I feel like I am about to get ripped off and am going for a second opinion.
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I have a 2000 Buick Lesabre with 226k and my parking/E-brake annoys me. The brake isn't stuck or anything, but the pedal doesn't come back all the way, at least not enough to turn off the brake light or accompanying dinging. Most of the time, the cable is disconnected from the pedal to keep the light and dinging off unless I have to use it. Is there any way to adjust the parking brake to get the pedal to fully return or is there something else wrong with the system?
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I recently put in a new compressor and accumulator. I didn't change the orifice tube since it is almost impossible to get to. I added freon and oil with dye and it would work fine sporadically sometimes it wouldn't get cold at all other times it would be freezing. This lasted about a week. I noticed that when it was hot the clutch was engaging fully but I felt the pipe near the firewall and it wasn't cold as if the compressor wasn't compressing and then it would start compressing and it would get cold. The compressor sounds different when it was making the car cold. This led me to rule out a problem in the air control doors. Now there seems to be a leak which is bad since it runs out almost immediately. The problem is finding it since there isn't any oil residue or freon dye where I can see.
(Looking for some shortcuts where I don't have to remove the vacuum brake, brake booster to change the orifice tube?)
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'95 LeSabre, 250K, runs great. Check engine light on randomly and signs point to a computer malfunction causing the light to come on. Is it true that only a dealership can replace the computer, not an indy mechanic? How much for the repair? Will it run ok w/o a new computer?
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I have a 2000 LeSabre and every time you start the car and then push the gas pedal down it's hard to push, then it will break free and work normally for the rest of the drive, but the next time you get in to go somewhere else, it will do the same thing. If you "POP IT" real quick with your foot it will work just fine until the next time. Is this a cable issue?
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I currently have no brake fluid in my car because it keeps leaking out (leaks while actively being used). The leak is between the power brake booster and the brake master cylinder... Is there any type of gasket I can get to better fill the gap between the two pieces of metal? Is there some way to tell which of the two pieces is creating the leak to narrow down which to purchase?
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In Oct. my wife took the car 40 miles from home, lost the brakes, and limped into a gas station. The guy there gave her a bottle of brake fluid and some stop leak. He suggested equal amounts of both and limp back home. She drove back and went to the machanic in town. He wanted $365 to replace all of the brake lines. He said there may be brake pressure problems and he will address them later. Recently I loaned my son the car so that he could deliver newspapers.
After 2 weeks we needed new front brakes. I had brake pressure problems. If the brake pedal did not feel spongy then the brakes felt inconsistent-sometimes high and sometimes down to the floor. There was a sticky passenger front caliper that was replaced. The brakes were bleed and are still spongy and inconsistent. I noticed that the reservoir cap is not good. Could the cap be the cause of the sponginess? There are no leaks around the master cylinder and there are no leaks. Should I replace the master cylinder? 1996 Buick LeSabre 3.8L....
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I'm having Hyundai Accent GLS Model 2005. Since yesterday, My tail lamp and Third Brake light is still switched on even I turn off the light & I notice that my Auto door lock is not functioning even I press the Brake Pedal. I tried to disconnect the battery & the Fuse and place it back but it doesn't works. Currently, I just pull out the fuse.
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2000 GMC pickup with 160 k. Didn't seem to get hot enough. Changed the thermostat and fixed that problem. Temperature is just below 210 degrees. Heater never did work well ( had it bout 6 months). After I changed the thermostat heater was cold. Ran it for a while and heater eventually warmed a bit but it doesn't get hot. And sometimes it goes cold. It goes back and forth....cold to warm..never hot. Is my heater core stopped up or do I have a control problem?
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I have a gen II Prius 2007 with 115,000 miles on it ...
When I use my brakes at low speeds under 15 mph, there is a bit of extra brake travel before they engage properly ...
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My keyless entry is suddenly acting funny. 2010 manual accent hatch, bought new, no problems at all so far. 50k on the clock.
Usually when I press the unlock button, the marker lights flash once and the drivers door unlocks, press again you get another single flash and the other doors unlock. Right?
Press the lock button and it should flash twice and lock the car. Press lock again and it will honk.
I had not driven the car for about one week and this morning the locks work ok, but the lights and horn are not doing what they should.
When I unlock, I get no flashing lights at all. When I lock I get the double flash, but no horn. Also, the panic mode works as it should, lights and horn.
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Some time ago my power mirrors stopped working. I don't normally adjust my mirrors all that much since I'm the only one who drives it but when I have, adjusting the mirror knob does nothing... and when it does, moving the joystick down will move the mirror up!
Depending on whether the lights are on or off all seems to change whether or not the mirrors will work. My right mirror seemed to be working fine but then that stopped as well.
Nothing is ever consistent; either they don't work or work very intermittently.
I've pulled the door skins off and nothing is torn or ripped wire-wise, changed the knob to a brand new one and still nothing.What it could be?
I'll bring it to my mechanic and sure enough it'll work when tested then will stop working randomly. Everything else electric wise seems to be fine (windows, horn, headlights, locks).
Some other details:
2015 Golf 2.5L 50k miles
Sunroof
Base model
Heated Seats
V2 Autopilot
LED Tails w/ euro fog (no error bulbs)
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I have a 2012 Avalon Limited with the automatic temperature control. It used to be that the recirculation function was controlled automatically. The recirculation function would come on when ever the outside temp was hot enough and the inside temp setting was low enough. This is also how my 2000 Avalon XLS works and how my 2014 Tundra 1794 Edition works. Both have the automatic air conditioning system. Now the recirculation function must be turned on manually in order for it work. This has just been happening for the last 3-4 months. The dealer service writer tells me that all 2010 through 2012 Avalons with the automatic temp control Air Conditioning require the recirculation function to be controlled manually. Is this really true?
The manual makes no mention of this requirement to control the recirculation function manually. The manual says that the recirculation function MAY be controlled manually, but, when the A/C is on automatic temp control, the recirculation function is turned on and off by the A/C, depending upon the outside air temperature and the interior vehicle temp setting chosen on the A/C front panel.
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I have recently noticed that my car will stall out when I get up to about 20 mph. My car starts fine, no check engine light on. I has a tendency to just die in the middle of the road at times too. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and a new fuel filter. Do I need to change the mass air flow sensor? Or the crank position sensor? I have no problems starting the car either. Runs good when it runs.
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Where is the relay box for turn and hazard signals in 98 Buick LeSabre custom? my hazards ans signals don't work switched fuses but didn't work. Where the box is I've never owned a Buick til now. there isn't one under the hood just the main on the driver's side.
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1996 buick lesabre custom 3800. The car stalls from time to time, and the fuel pump, power windows, power seats, and power mirrors all stop working. Most people who have had this problem cleaned the ground bus on the drivers side under the carpet. I have done this, and the car has not stalled yet, but I haven't driven it far because I have noticed the fuel pump relay and power windows relay are getting extremely hot to the touch after 5 minutes or so of driving. Why these relays are getting so hot? I cannot afford to keep getting the car towed home.
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My 2001 Buick Lesabre has always shown to run exactly normal on the temperature dash unit until recently. I checked my coolant level and it was a bit low, so I added. After I filled the radiator I have noticed a coolant leak spot on my driveway, after I drive it now. I have removed the gravel shield and have tried to pin point exactly where the leak is coming from, but cannot. Now, each time I park, after driving it, I put a clean piece of cardboard under it to try to see exactly what area the leak is coming from. Last night I put the car on ramps and crawled under to discover that the leak is located just above the oil filter and is actually dripping from the oil filter, but I still cannot see the exact location of the leak.Actually the leak does not appear until about an hour after I park the car, so it sounds like something is contracting after the engine has cooled off, but what? The leak has seemed to be getting worse each time I drive the car. How can I determine exactly where the leak is coming from without just changing a bunch of parts.
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My car would not start yesterday, and I realized the fuel pump was not running. So I bought a new fuel pump today and put it on, the car still won't start, the fuel pump still does not run and I have been told to check the relay. I cannot find the relay for this car.
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I have a 1995 buick Lasbre and my engine light is on my car would cut off every once and a while. but when it does it cranks right back up like its a sortage in the wires people say it is an electrical problem i thought it was my crank sensor but my car has never had a problem cranking up it sounds wonderful when it cranks up so whats my problem....
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My '98 Buick's AC works well when I take it to a mechanic. But when I leave after they say, 'it seems fine now,' a few miles later the cold air starts blowing through the defroster vents, still nice and cold. Then it comes back down to the dash and then goes back up to the defrost. But sometimes it stops blowing altogether, it doesn't blow anywhere! Nothing, not even warm air. And then later everything is fine again, until it happens all over again and I take it to another shop when I hear 'it seems fine now.'.
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I have been to a few different repair shops for my 2000 Buick Le Sabre shimmy problem with no luck. I have a really bad shimmy, while accelerating between 45 and 50 mph, and it seems worse on an upgrade. Past 50 mph, it smooths out. Over the past several months, mechanics have checked the balance of my tires and rotated them, done front end alignment, rear alignment, replaced the right lower control arm, the right sway bar link and the right wheel hub. Still no luck, so it came down to the determination that it must be a bad tire. Now I have 4 new tires (it was soon time to get them anyway), and I still have the shimmy. What else can we look for? My local mechanics seems stumped. I have not taken it to a Buick dealership, however...
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