Buick - Lesabre :: 2003 Sporadically Skips When Accelerating - No Warning Lights / Alerts
Apr 1, 2013
I have a 2003 Buick LeSabre with 187,000 miles (mostly highway) that skips/jerks sometimes when accelerating, even when in cruise control. It only does this every month or so; and, of course, never does it when the mechanic is in the car. No warning lights have ever appeared and my mechanic says no codes have shown up in three diagnostic tests.
In the last 1.5 years, the following items have been replaced: power steering rack, oil pressure sensor, FE control arm bushing, intake manifold gasket, oil pan gasket, transmission mount, water pump, rear struts. In 2010, an alternator, thermostat, mass air flow sensor and front brake pads were installed. Oil is changed as scheduled; tires are rotated as required and car is serviced at the first sign of any problem. Other than occasional skipping, car is in pristine condition and rides like a charm.
The most recent skipping occurred March 29th when I was 200 miles from home. It lasted sporadically for about 10 miles and did not occur in the other 190 miles.
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Back in April, I posted this comment about occasional skipping when accelerating: "I have a 2003 Buick LeSabre with 187,000 miles (mostly highway) that skips/jerks sometimes when accelerating, even when in cruise control. It only does this every month or so; and, of course, never does it when the mechanic is in the car. No warning lights have ever appeared and my mechanic says no codes have shown up in three diagnostic tests.
In the last 1.5 years, the following items have been replaced: power steering rack, oil pressure sensor, FE control arm bushing, intake manifold gasket, oil pan gasket, transmission mount, water pump, rear struts. In 2010, an alternator, thermostat, mass air flow sensor and front brake pads were installed. Oil is changed as scheduled; tires are rotated as required and car is serviced at the first sign of any problem. Other than occasional skipping, car is in pristine condition and rides like a charm. The most recent skipping occurred March 29th when I was 200 miles from home. It lasted sporadically for about 10 miles and did not occur in the other 190 miles."
Based on the advice of responders, I had the fuel filter replaced and the car never skipped again ... until today, three days after the rotors and brakes were replaced. Like before, there have been no warning lights and the skip, which can occur when braking or when in motion, occurs sporadically. It might happen several times in a mile and then not happen again for some time. The car now has 192,000 miles. Is this the transmission, a problem with the recent brake installation or something else?
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I have been to a few different repair shops for my 2000 Buick Le Sabre shimmy problem with no luck. I have a really bad shimmy, while accelerating between 45 and 50 mph, and it seems worse on an upgrade. Past 50 mph, it smooths out. Over the past several months, mechanics have checked the balance of my tires and rotated them, done front end alignment, rear alignment, replaced the right lower control arm, the right sway bar link and the right wheel hub. Still no luck, so it came down to the determination that it must be a bad tire. Now I have 4 new tires (it was soon time to get them anyway), and I still have the shimmy. What else can we look for? My local mechanics seems stumped. I have not taken it to a Buick dealership, however...
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I have a 2000 buick lesabre v6 3800 series 2 engine and every now and then when accelerating it will miss out, I don't know what it could be?
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I have a 1995 buick Lasbre and my engine light is on my car would cut off every once and a while. but when it does it cranks right back up like its a sortage in the wires people say it is an electrical problem i thought it was my crank sensor but my car has never had a problem cranking up it sounds wonderful when it cranks up so whats my problem....
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Last November my car began stalling while idling at stop lights. It didn't happen all the time, just occasionally. The car would start back up without too much difficulty. I took it to a GM dealer who cleaned the throttle body and decarburized the intake and exhaust valves. They also removed an aftermarket security system which had been installed by the previous owner which they claimed may have interfered electrically with the engine. They reported a history of code P0128 (thermostat sticking open) being stored in the ECM. I did not have the thermostat replaced.
The work the dealer performed did not resolve the issue. During the winter, I've been letting the car warm-up for a few minutes before driving. While warming up, the rpms will sometimes increase or decrease 200-300 rpm then return to normal idling a few seconds later. Sometimes when the rpms dip down low enough, the engine sputters and either recovers or stalls. On most days I don't have any issues and the car runs fine. The check engine light sometimes comes on while this happens, and sometimes it doesn't.
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I have a 1989 Buick LaSabre that is having some problems and no mechanic seems to be able to figure it out. After 4 computer items totally $1,800.00 since March, the same problem started again yesterday. I am driving through the hills to town and the dashboard lights all come on and my engine cuts out. I stop, put in park and restart and take off again. As soon as I am on the highway, car runs fine. It has something to do with the fuel system I believe because once it cuts out the car smells like lots of gas but after it starts back up (and it does every time) the smell goes away.
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My friend has a 2003 Buick LeSabre 3800 with approximately 80000 miles. He complains that the car will die while he is driving. I work at a local parts store and have access to code reading scanner. We've checked the fuel pressure at fuel rail several times and is okay. The only thing that seems odd to me is that he says the tach will quit working. It dies like the switch has been cut off. He can wait, sometimes 10 to 30 minutes, and the car will restart. I had him to come by work when the car acted up so I could scan it. It gave crank sensor out of range, and indeed the tach was not working. I turned the car off to scan, and restarted. The tach was working.
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I purchased a nice 03 Buick lesabre with only 40,000 miles mint , well after driving and enjoying it now for 2 months, I now have a red flashing light left top side of my radio. However it still works and it does go off when I start the engine, what does this mean because I pulled out the manual and this is what I have, is it a normal thing that was just delayed in happening for some unknown reason?
Buick radio flashing light : JPG1023x697 75 KB
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My buick has a weird problem, basically it wont start the security light comes on, nothing and i mean absolutely nothing works inside of the car and the power window circuit breaker under the back seat is burning hot, obviously its an electrical problem but I am thinking its the body control module but I want to be sure .... what it could be?
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its 94 degrees outside and I take a ride then when I park the 2003 Buick lesabre v6 3800 custom , I shut it off in my driveway, then as I walked past the car I notice a rubber type high heat smell through the seam in the hood its like a combination of heater or radiator hose and belt rubber smell yet when I open the hood no leaks no extremely hot belt and the hoses just feel normal hot the car runs fine ,no noises oil is high on the mark not low on antifreeze nothing , I just got this car in the early spring and never noticed it until now mid Summer high heat weather .is this normal?
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I have a 1995 Park Avenue 3.8 with 278,000 miles. Runs fine until about 3rd gear and 55mph when if under any load at all the whole car jumps and shutters. If not under load, like going up-hill, no shutter or skip and runs smooth. If accelerator pressed at all, even when running smooth the shutter begins. Normally does not shutter at lower speeds.
Thought it was the transmission, so serviced the transmission. No improvement.
Took car to local transmission repair. They drove and do not think it is the transmission. They did check pressure at the throttle body, gas flow - let gas flow into clear container, no debris or water - and pressure was in the 52 range. Dropped some on acceleration while in park.
Shop did scan the computer, no codes. Check engine light is not on. Checked fuel filter and it was good.
They also checked all the spark plug wires and indications were that all were firing and in good order. They misted the wires with a spray bottle to see if they could detect electrical leaks - did not find any.
The car is not driven that often and was very low on gas. After leaving the transmission shop, bought gas and initially the car ran great with no hesitation or shutter even at 55mph. Shutter returned within about a mile. The car acts as if it has time to fill a container with gas it runs fine until the container looses some of the gas then it runs rough, or if you are driving along and try to take more than the normal flow out of the container the car runs rough - if they makes any sense.
Bought new gas filler cap just in case. No change.
The fuel filter and fuel pump were replaced at the same time about 2 years ago.
The EGR was replaced about 1 1/2 years ago. New plugs and wires about 1 1/2 years ago.
There is sometimes, but not all the time, a loud pitched whistle which seems to be coming from the area of the gas tank. Oddly enough if the car is in park and running while the whistle is happening, if the brake is pressed, the whistle changes in pitch to a louder and fuller whistle. When the brake is released, the whistle pitch drops in volume and more of a shrill whistle. Same happens moving transmission from P to R.
I feel I have a fuel problem, however, fuel flow, pressure, etc., seem to be ok. The mechanic drove the car with pressure gauge attached to the throttle body and didn't seem to feel that the gas was the problem upon returning from the drive.
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I have a 2003 Buick LeSabre Limited, and everything was going fine with it till recently. The Fuel gauge started to go haywire as in the needle would go to full, then go back down to a Quarter, then back to 3/4, then drop all the way down to Empty, this is still occurring. At first I believed it to be the fuel level sensor, but then I started to notice something else.
A warning message came on stating that the oil level was too low, but when I checked the oil level it was fine, and last night when I was driving with the air conditioner on, I hit a bump and the air conditioner stopped working. I pushed the off button, and was successfully able to make the air conditioner to come back on with out having to restart the car.
The horn has also started to go in and out, and I do not know if they are all linked together by a type of computer or if they are separate.
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My car recently started running overtemp not much, but enough to bother me. I flushed the system with no change. after about a week with continued symptoms, my trans started shifting hard between 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, and running rough in general, sputtering lightly in high gear. I assumed it was running over temp with the rest of the car, so I replaced the radiator and the radiator cap, yet still am having the same problem. Is it still related to the cooling system? if I replace the water pump will i solve my problems, or is it really a hidden trans problem? I'm fairly certain the trans has never been serviced, and I'm reluctant to do so given the high milage, 174,000. The fluid is full, but its very thin, and no longer red, its sort of a pale yellow.
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My 1982 240D Mercedes Benz skips especially when accelerating. While it doesn't do it all the time, when it does it really loses power and comes almost to a crawl (at least 10 mph decrease in speed) and is quite annoying for me and probably for the drivers behind me, what's going on. My guess is that the fuel injectors are clogged as they have never been changed since the car's creation. When idling it does not skip; only when engaging and shifting through the gears (this is a manual transmission) especially when going up into third gear and fourth.
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My Buick started wobbling during accelerating a few months ago. It only does this from 45 to 55 MPH. If I stay between 45 and 55 it continues to wobble. Slower or faster and it quits. I've had it in the shop 4 times and they can't find the problem. The first shop changed the steering angle sensor but that didn't fix the problem. I took it to another shop. They couldn't find anything wrong. I took it back and they said a tie rod end had some play. They changed that. They did an alignment afterwards. They've also balanced the tires twice during this process. None of this fixed it. I took it back and they couldn't find anything so I ask them to check the motor mounts and they said they are good. They said everything in the front end feels tight. I like my car without the wobble and it only has 79,000 miles on it. How am I going to find out what the problem is?
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I have 2003 Buick Century. I started having problems with the car after coming to a stop, accelerating - the car starts to go hesitates, then jerks a bit to go. This does not happen every time after a stop but when it does the service engine soon light comes on. Initially I got the P0401 code (I think) and took it in to a mechanic. They could not find anything wrong with the car but did clean out the EGR valve, that didn't work, they worked on my transmission and replaced other parts, still no success.
I took the car to another mechanic who replaced the EGR valve and several other small parts. I still had the problem but this time the error code was P0420. I took it back again and replaced the spark plugs, O/2 sensor, catalytic converter. That hasn't fixed the problem. The mechanic said that they have taken my car for several test drives and the car has not demonstrated the problem. The error message still reads P0420 even after all of the parts have been replaced. The 2nd mechanic has washed his hands of my problem.
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My Mk4 R32 has been in the shop for a week now. My number 2 cylinder began sporadically misfiring on the highway and then once I turned the engine off and then back on it would run fine until I got back on the highway and began to accelerate up to about 60.
Took it in and the mechanics couldn't replicate the code. Got a vacuum tube replaced and and it ran fine until I got to the highway. Same issue.
At this point the fuel injector has been replaced and its still throwing the code.
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I have recently noticed that my car will stall out when I get up to about 20 mph. My car starts fine, no check engine light on. I has a tendency to just die in the middle of the road at times too. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and a new fuel filter. Do I need to change the mass air flow sensor? Or the crank position sensor? I have no problems starting the car either. Runs good when it runs.
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My 2003 Buick Century heater works fine while accelerating but as soon as I release the gas the air begins to cool, swiftly. I have had the radiator flushed and the coolant topped off but the problem persists.
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Where is the relay box for turn and hazard signals in 98 Buick LeSabre custom? my hazards ans signals don't work switched fuses but didn't work. Where the box is I've never owned a Buick til now. there isn't one under the hood just the main on the driver's side.
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