Buick - Lesabre :: 2003 - Occasional Skipping When Accelerating
Nov 6, 2013
Back in April, I posted this comment about occasional skipping when accelerating: "I have a 2003 Buick LeSabre with 187,000 miles (mostly highway) that skips/jerks sometimes when accelerating, even when in cruise control. It only does this every month or so; and, of course, never does it when the mechanic is in the car. No warning lights have ever appeared and my mechanic says no codes have shown up in three diagnostic tests.
In the last 1.5 years, the following items have been replaced: power steering rack, oil pressure sensor, FE control arm bushing, intake manifold gasket, oil pan gasket, transmission mount, water pump, rear struts. In 2010, an alternator, thermostat, mass air flow sensor and front brake pads were installed. Oil is changed as scheduled; tires are rotated as required and car is serviced at the first sign of any problem. Other than occasional skipping, car is in pristine condition and rides like a charm. The most recent skipping occurred March 29th when I was 200 miles from home. It lasted sporadically for about 10 miles and did not occur in the other 190 miles."
Based on the advice of responders, I had the fuel filter replaced and the car never skipped again ... until today, three days after the rotors and brakes were replaced. Like before, there have been no warning lights and the skip, which can occur when braking or when in motion, occurs sporadically. It might happen several times in a mile and then not happen again for some time. The car now has 192,000 miles. Is this the transmission, a problem with the recent brake installation or something else?
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I have a 2003 Buick LeSabre with 187,000 miles (mostly highway) that skips/jerks sometimes when accelerating, even when in cruise control. It only does this every month or so; and, of course, never does it when the mechanic is in the car. No warning lights have ever appeared and my mechanic says no codes have shown up in three diagnostic tests.
In the last 1.5 years, the following items have been replaced: power steering rack, oil pressure sensor, FE control arm bushing, intake manifold gasket, oil pan gasket, transmission mount, water pump, rear struts. In 2010, an alternator, thermostat, mass air flow sensor and front brake pads were installed. Oil is changed as scheduled; tires are rotated as required and car is serviced at the first sign of any problem. Other than occasional skipping, car is in pristine condition and rides like a charm.
The most recent skipping occurred March 29th when I was 200 miles from home. It lasted sporadically for about 10 miles and did not occur in the other 190 miles.
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I have been to a few different repair shops for my 2000 Buick Le Sabre shimmy problem with no luck. I have a really bad shimmy, while accelerating between 45 and 50 mph, and it seems worse on an upgrade. Past 50 mph, it smooths out. Over the past several months, mechanics have checked the balance of my tires and rotated them, done front end alignment, rear alignment, replaced the right lower control arm, the right sway bar link and the right wheel hub. Still no luck, so it came down to the determination that it must be a bad tire. Now I have 4 new tires (it was soon time to get them anyway), and I still have the shimmy. What else can we look for? My local mechanics seems stumped. I have not taken it to a Buick dealership, however...
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I have a 2000 buick lesabre v6 3800 series 2 engine and every now and then when accelerating it will miss out, I don't know what it could be?
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My friend has a 2003 Buick LeSabre 3800 with approximately 80000 miles. He complains that the car will die while he is driving. I work at a local parts store and have access to code reading scanner. We've checked the fuel pressure at fuel rail several times and is okay. The only thing that seems odd to me is that he says the tach will quit working. It dies like the switch has been cut off. He can wait, sometimes 10 to 30 minutes, and the car will restart. I had him to come by work when the car acted up so I could scan it. It gave crank sensor out of range, and indeed the tach was not working. I turned the car off to scan, and restarted. The tach was working.
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I purchased a nice 03 Buick lesabre with only 40,000 miles mint , well after driving and enjoying it now for 2 months, I now have a red flashing light left top side of my radio. However it still works and it does go off when I start the engine, what does this mean because I pulled out the manual and this is what I have, is it a normal thing that was just delayed in happening for some unknown reason?
Buick radio flashing light : JPG1023x697 75 KB
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My buick has a weird problem, basically it wont start the security light comes on, nothing and i mean absolutely nothing works inside of the car and the power window circuit breaker under the back seat is burning hot, obviously its an electrical problem but I am thinking its the body control module but I want to be sure .... what it could be?
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its 94 degrees outside and I take a ride then when I park the 2003 Buick lesabre v6 3800 custom , I shut it off in my driveway, then as I walked past the car I notice a rubber type high heat smell through the seam in the hood its like a combination of heater or radiator hose and belt rubber smell yet when I open the hood no leaks no extremely hot belt and the hoses just feel normal hot the car runs fine ,no noises oil is high on the mark not low on antifreeze nothing , I just got this car in the early spring and never noticed it until now mid Summer high heat weather .is this normal?
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I have a 2003 Buick LeSabre Limited, and everything was going fine with it till recently. The Fuel gauge started to go haywire as in the needle would go to full, then go back down to a Quarter, then back to 3/4, then drop all the way down to Empty, this is still occurring. At first I believed it to be the fuel level sensor, but then I started to notice something else.
A warning message came on stating that the oil level was too low, but when I checked the oil level it was fine, and last night when I was driving with the air conditioner on, I hit a bump and the air conditioner stopped working. I pushed the off button, and was successfully able to make the air conditioner to come back on with out having to restart the car.
The horn has also started to go in and out, and I do not know if they are all linked together by a type of computer or if they are separate.
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With the new car, only on audio Bluetooth streaming of my downloaded tunes, I'm experiencing a momentary "skip" of sound (less than a second but still annoying) occurring 0-2 times per song. My phone is a 9 mos. old Samsung Note 4.
I guess I can live with it, and suspect it's more the phone than the car to blame. But, if it's the car audio, especially with ML system, I would have expected better.
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My car recently started running overtemp not much, but enough to bother me. I flushed the system with no change. after about a week with continued symptoms, my trans started shifting hard between 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, and running rough in general, sputtering lightly in high gear. I assumed it was running over temp with the rest of the car, so I replaced the radiator and the radiator cap, yet still am having the same problem. Is it still related to the cooling system? if I replace the water pump will i solve my problems, or is it really a hidden trans problem? I'm fairly certain the trans has never been serviced, and I'm reluctant to do so given the high milage, 174,000. The fluid is full, but its very thin, and no longer red, its sort of a pale yellow.
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My Buick Park Ave 2000 is having an acceleration problem. It seems to be skipping at different times. It happens more often at lower speeds than higher speeds. It still happens at higher speeds though. I was on a long trip of about 180 miles and on the highway it seemed fine. What do you think is causing this? I did take it to a garage and they couldn't find anything wrong with it and of course true to form nothing happened when they took it for a spin. They did computer checks and everything was fine.
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My Buick started wobbling during accelerating a few months ago. It only does this from 45 to 55 MPH. If I stay between 45 and 55 it continues to wobble. Slower or faster and it quits. I've had it in the shop 4 times and they can't find the problem. The first shop changed the steering angle sensor but that didn't fix the problem. I took it to another shop. They couldn't find anything wrong. I took it back and they said a tie rod end had some play. They changed that. They did an alignment afterwards. They've also balanced the tires twice during this process. None of this fixed it. I took it back and they couldn't find anything so I ask them to check the motor mounts and they said they are good. They said everything in the front end feels tight. I like my car without the wobble and it only has 79,000 miles on it. How am I going to find out what the problem is?
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I have 2003 Buick Century. I started having problems with the car after coming to a stop, accelerating - the car starts to go hesitates, then jerks a bit to go. This does not happen every time after a stop but when it does the service engine soon light comes on. Initially I got the P0401 code (I think) and took it in to a mechanic. They could not find anything wrong with the car but did clean out the EGR valve, that didn't work, they worked on my transmission and replaced other parts, still no success.
I took the car to another mechanic who replaced the EGR valve and several other small parts. I still had the problem but this time the error code was P0420. I took it back again and replaced the spark plugs, O/2 sensor, catalytic converter. That hasn't fixed the problem. The mechanic said that they have taken my car for several test drives and the car has not demonstrated the problem. The error message still reads P0420 even after all of the parts have been replaced. The 2nd mechanic has washed his hands of my problem.
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I have recently noticed that my car will stall out when I get up to about 20 mph. My car starts fine, no check engine light on. I has a tendency to just die in the middle of the road at times too. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and a new fuel filter. Do I need to change the mass air flow sensor? Or the crank position sensor? I have no problems starting the car either. Runs good when it runs.
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My 2003 Buick Century heater works fine while accelerating but as soon as I release the gas the air begins to cool, swiftly. I have had the radiator flushed and the coolant topped off but the problem persists.
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Where is the relay box for turn and hazard signals in 98 Buick LeSabre custom? my hazards ans signals don't work switched fuses but didn't work. Where the box is I've never owned a Buick til now. there isn't one under the hood just the main on the driver's side.
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I have a 98 Toyota sienna and it has started making a thud noise and skipping a bit when accelerating or going up even a slight incline. I have been told everything from it needs new plugs/wires to a new transmission. Could these cause similar problems?
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1996 buick lesabre custom 3800. The car stalls from time to time, and the fuel pump, power windows, power seats, and power mirrors all stop working. Most people who have had this problem cleaned the ground bus on the drivers side under the carpet. I have done this, and the car has not stalled yet, but I haven't driven it far because I have noticed the fuel pump relay and power windows relay are getting extremely hot to the touch after 5 minutes or so of driving. Why these relays are getting so hot? I cannot afford to keep getting the car towed home.
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My 2001 Buick Lesabre has always shown to run exactly normal on the temperature dash unit until recently. I checked my coolant level and it was a bit low, so I added. After I filled the radiator I have noticed a coolant leak spot on my driveway, after I drive it now. I have removed the gravel shield and have tried to pin point exactly where the leak is coming from, but cannot. Now, each time I park, after driving it, I put a clean piece of cardboard under it to try to see exactly what area the leak is coming from. Last night I put the car on ramps and crawled under to discover that the leak is located just above the oil filter and is actually dripping from the oil filter, but I still cannot see the exact location of the leak.Actually the leak does not appear until about an hour after I park the car, so it sounds like something is contracting after the engine has cooled off, but what? The leak has seemed to be getting worse each time I drive the car. How can I determine exactly where the leak is coming from without just changing a bunch of parts.
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I currently have no brake fluid in my car because it keeps leaking out (leaks while actively being used). The leak is between the power brake booster and the brake master cylinder... Is there any type of gasket I can get to better fill the gap between the two pieces of metal? Is there some way to tell which of the two pieces is creating the leak to narrow down which to purchase?
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