I have a '98 Buick LeSabre, 112,000 miles and it's white. When I put the ignition key in and turn it without starting it completely I get a humming noise coming from the rear of the car. It lasts about 5 seconds and stops. When I start the car it begins again and continues all the time I'm driving. A friend suggested it might be the fuel pump.
View 1 RepliesAs I begin to accelerate a humming sound from the front of the car begins. The noise becomes more pronounced the faster I go. No additional noise is made when I brake or turn, nor does it appear to be any noise when I went in reverse. I made a 180 mile trip on Sunday with no problems, although I did travel at closer to 55mph than 65. The car has 170,000 miles on it and has had most of its scheduled maintenance performed.
View 3 RepliesI am having problems with with the rear defroster and the a/c in my '98 Buick Lesabre, they went out at the same time, and I checked the fuses in the fuse box, and the meter says they are all good, the fan motor isn't running either, and I think that they are all tied together.
View 14 RepliesI have an old 98 Lesabre, and it runs and drives great. When I first got it I had to do the Vacuum line mod on the programmer to get the HVAC to blow out the face vents. That was the best $1.60 and 30 min I spent on a car
That mod still works and was done about 1.5 years ago, the ENTIRE time i have owned the car the temp blinks when I start the car, but the HVAC has always worked fine so I paid no attention to it. That is until 3 weeks ago when I had to replace my intake manifold. I disconnected the battery without turning the system to "off". I have been doing a bunch of reading online, and it seems I may have thrown the system's sync off by doing this.
Right now my problem is this, colder air coming from the pass side then the driver’s side. When I start the car it will seem synched for a few seconds, then it will start blinking and both vents will go FULL COLD, eventually it brings the temp back up the d-side gets hotter than the p-side. I have done the following:
- gone through AT LEAST 50 on/off cycles
- Removed the 9c fuse to try to reset
- Pulled down the glove box door and watched both the upper and lower blend doors go through there whole range of movement (which they do)
- Tried to re-sync by pushing the temp full hot, then full cold a few times in a row.
Besides getting this scanned by a tech 2, which is my last resort, is there anything else I can do?
Where is the relay box for turn and hazard signals in 98 Buick LeSabre custom? my hazards ans signals don't work switched fuses but didn't work. Where the box is I've never owned a Buick til now. there isn't one under the hood just the main on the driver's side.
View 1 RepliesMy '98 Buick's AC works well when I take it to a mechanic. But when I leave after they say, 'it seems fine now,' a few miles later the cold air starts blowing through the defroster vents, still nice and cold. Then it comes back down to the dash and then goes back up to the defrost. But sometimes it stops blowing altogether, it doesn't blow anywhere! Nothing, not even warm air. And then later everything is fine again, until it happens all over again and I take it to another shop when I hear 'it seems fine now.'.
View 2 RepliesMy wife's 98 LeSabre will occasionally cut out or stall. It usually happens at low speeds and she thinks it may be more frequently on a right hand turn. The engine can always be restarted immediately. There is no other symptom, no check engine light on when running. The car runs well and has ~125000 miles. Sounds like an intermittent connection or short but where?
View 2 RepliesI need getting my Buick to start. It is a 1989 LeSabre Limited with a series 1 3800 engine. I only have spark on cylinders 3 and 6 (paired on ignition coil). I have run tests to see that I have that I have 12 volts to the ignition module, 12 volts out to the crank sensor, signals coming from the crank sensor. I pulled the coil pack and found that I only have a signal on the blue wire supplying 3 and 6. I don't get a signal on the green and yellow wires supplying the other 4 cylinders. My tests would indicate that the ICM is bad. I replaced the ICM and out of desperation the coil pack and I still have the exact same problem. I cleaned the aluminum surface to make sure I have an excellent ground.
View 7 RepliesIt is as an electronic whistle/humming. The sound is coming from the rear of the van, and no, not when it's moving, even though it still does it when moving. The only thing I can think of would be the fuel pump. Because It's loudest just before the rear tires, not after them. My fiancee has heard it twice now, when she first heard it, I didn't, but this last time when I heard it, I also noticed that the gas gauge was reading just below 1/8 of a tank.
Would like to know if it's the fuel pump or something else I'm no thinking of. And if it means I have to replace the pump.
I have a 1998 Buick lesaber it ran hot the other day [temp light came on] do I pulled in to gastation and the overflow tank was empty I filled it to the hot line and ran it for a few minutes light went off drove 8 blocks to my house let it cool down and opens the radiator cap no coolant. I checked the overflow tank empty too. So I got some coolant from my garage and poured it into the radiator as I was pouring it started to leak out somewhere on the upper passenger side of the engine under the plastic noise cover and behind the pulleys. This happened while the car was not running. It's my family's only car so I can't tear it apart until the weekend but where to start or what parts to have on hand.
View 9 RepliesI am currently driving a 98 Buick with the 3.8 V6 and 120,000 on the clock. The car runs 100%, and its paid for
My problem is I seem to be losing coolant, at the rate of about the entire overflow in 2 weeks (I only drive on avg 15-20 miles a day). The problem is I have no leaks. I even went so far as to pull the spark plugs and they all looked good (none of them looked "steam cleaned"). I put florescent dye into the rad, and I can’t find a drop of coolant anywhere. The intake gaskets have already been done on this car, and I triple checked around it with the die.
Rad, and hoses all check out, no dye in the oil, no dye at the heater core/AC drain under the car, the core plugs are fine, around the head gaskets seem fine as well.. I CANT FIGURE THIS OUT !! I am 100% losing coolant, but I can’t find hide nor hair of it..
I know I can keep adding coolant, but I like my cars as leak free as possible and if it is something bad, I want to know about it now not later.
My dad has a 98 Buick La Sabre that will shut off at times. It once shut off as he was turning on the air cond. last summer. Right after it stalled and would not start he attempted to open the windows but they would not work. After a few hours and cooling off it started and the windows worked again. He took it to a shop who said it was the map sensor. They changed it but the problem happened again a few weeks after. The fuel pump has recently been changed along with the fuel filter.
One mechanic suggested it could be the ignition control modular or knock sensor. He recently got a different car so I an going to test drive it for a while. If it shuts down I will test for spark to confirm it is not a fuel problem. I will also try swooping relays to see if that is not the problem. I will be cleaning all the connections I can find with contact cleaner as it can't hurt.
What could be the problem. Could it be a short, a bad wire that once it gets to much of a load on it cuts the engine off?
Engine light won't go off - printout says it's running lean - replaced mass airflow sensor, upper & lower O2 sensors, spark plugs, wires and coils. What else I need to do to get the light to go out so it'll pass inspection?
View 4 RepliesEvery once-in-a-while I've noticed a "security" light is illuminated on my dash-board. When this happens, I can't start my 92' Buick LeSabre for about 5-minutes or so. Aggravating, to say the least. Is there something I can do? Including "disabling" it?
View 2 RepliesI have a 93 Buick Lesabre and the ABS light was coming on and off for about three weeks.Now it stays on all the time. Just recently I had the brakes completely lock up on me. In my car you have to apply pressure to the brakes to even get the car to shift into gear. The car will drive for about a mile and then all of a sudden the brake pedal is completely hard and the car will not roll forward. It does it completely fine in reverse. My calipers are good and there is no sound of them locking up. The pads are in good condition.Then after this happened to me twice in a two mile drive, struggling to get it home... now a light in the dash flashes SECURITY. It is strange and I know my brakes are in good condition and there is no abnormal wear and tear.
View 4 RepliesThere is a humming noise coming from the right rear of my R, I'm going to guess that it is the furl pump running? If not I don't know what it could be, or if usually that loud...
Second, I was thinking of getting adjustable rear control arms. I was going to get just one set, to adjust the camber to 0.0 instead of the -1 or so that they usually ride.
Third, I was also contemplating getting upgraded motor, trans, and dogbone mount. I was told it would cut down on transmission noise while letting off the gas pedal whence driving.
Recently two of the hubcaps on my 1999 Buick Le Sabre have been coming loose after about 100 miles of driving. How to keep them secure? I don't want to buy aftermarket hubcaps. The wheels are balanced and the rims are in good condition, as are the tires.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 suburban . I have a humming noise coming from the rear . It starts at 45mph and then goes away at 47mph. I hear it again between 60-65 mph then goes away . This is a faint sound . When pulling a trailer the sound is much more noticeable and more constant from 55-64 mph . When I let off the gas the sound is still there and fades as the truck slows. Am I dealing with a bad tire ( I plan to rotate them to see if that is the cause ) or a wheel or axle bearing ? To note I replaced the front wheel hub/bearings just about a year ago .
View 2 RepliesChecking my garage before going to bed last night and hear motorized humming coming from rear of the GX. I slide underneath and it seems to be coming from the spare tire area. I started the engine, then shut it off and the noise went away. The noise reminded me of the air suspension pump on my old Denali, but my Gx has the standard suspension.
View 2 Replies1997 buick lesabre, 4 door, v6. It was having problem stalling out. This weekend a friend and I lifted the car and replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump. Drove great Saturday and Sunday. Today I get in the car, starts up without a hitch. I start heading down my street and realize I am having to push my brake pedal in ALL THE WAY to get it to stop and even then it's slow to stop. So I back up, pull the hood and check the brake fluid. Sure enough, it's low, so I run to Advance, grab some fluid and fill it up the max line and think i'm ok. Start the car up, pump the brakes a few time and notice nothing new. I get out and realize I have a very steady leak in front of the right rear wheel of fluid. It's a steady drip in two places. Is there something I could have done to have caused this. The only line we messed with on Saturday was the emergency brake line and it's clearly working (I tested it).
View 1 RepliesI hear a noise that sounds like a bad wheel bearing when I hit 68 mph, and it gets worse when I go faster. I've had both bearings replaced, but still hear the noise. It is directly related to speed...the faster I go beyond 68 mph the worse it gets.
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