1996 Buick LeSabre 3.8L... Under the pcv valve housing is a short plastic 90 deg. elbow, about 3/4inch wide. The elbow looks like it comes from the upper plenum and goes into a metal housing behind the belt tensioner. This elbow leaks from behind the belt tensioner side. My question: what is this elbow called? How do I fix it?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1996 Buick Le Sabre. There is a bad water leak onto the passenger side back floorboard. I have taken it to the dealer and two repair shops. They are stumped. A hard Florida rain can get 2 inches of water on the floor. Tried re-gluing the rubber seal. That did not work.
View 5 RepliesMy son's car overheated yesterday due to a sudden crack in the radiator. He had it towed to me. There was no evidence of a blown head gasket or cracked block, so I replaced the radiator. Since the battery was dead, I put the charger on it. When I did that, the heater/AC fan began to blow. The only way I could get it to stop was to disconnect the battery. Even the ignition switch had no bearing on the fan.
I do not know if the overheating and this problem are related. It may be just a coincidence, but it is odd.
This car has a slide to regulate the blower speed. It is not one of those "Select a temp" automatic ones. It will blow cold air out the AC vents when AC is selected, but when the OFF button is selected ambient air goes to the DEFROST vents.
I suspect a relay is stuck, but what relay, and where is it located?
1996 Buick Le Sabre. About 1 time in 10, the car will not start. The starter is fine; seems to get no gas. Took it to garage for diagnosis. They could find NO problem: but replaced plugs and wires anyhow. Car still refuses to start -- just about 1 time in 10. It seems to have a bigger problem if the car was parked going UPHILL. This is not always the case. Is it likely to be the fuel pump? Is there no way to check this without simply replacing the fuel pump?
View 4 RepliesIn Oct. my wife took the car 40 miles from home, lost the brakes, and limped into a gas station. The guy there gave her a bottle of brake fluid and some stop leak. He suggested equal amounts of both and limp back home. She drove back and went to the machanic in town. He wanted $365 to replace all of the brake lines. He said there may be brake pressure problems and he will address them later. Recently I loaned my son the car so that he could deliver newspapers.
After 2 weeks we needed new front brakes. I had brake pressure problems. If the brake pedal did not feel spongy then the brakes felt inconsistent-sometimes high and sometimes down to the floor. There was a sticky passenger front caliper that was replaced. The brakes were bleed and are still spongy and inconsistent. I noticed that the reservoir cap is not good. Could the cap be the cause of the sponginess? There are no leaks around the master cylinder and there are no leaks. Should I replace the master cylinder? 1996 Buick LeSabre 3.8L....
We have a 97 Saturn SL2. The belt tensioner assembly cracked and after the guy replaced it, immediately upon driving, the low coolant light starts flashing.
Drove it this way a few times while keeping an eye on coolant level. Parked car for a few days, then notice a big puddle of green coolant under car. It has been sitting now for several weeks.
Could increased tension from the new tensioner pulley cause the water pump to die?
The car has never overheated, though. If water pump was toast wouldn't it overheat?
I have an old 98 Lesabre, and it runs and drives great. When I first got it I had to do the Vacuum line mod on the programmer to get the HVAC to blow out the face vents. That was the best $1.60 and 30 min I spent on a car
That mod still works and was done about 1.5 years ago, the ENTIRE time i have owned the car the temp blinks when I start the car, but the HVAC has always worked fine so I paid no attention to it. That is until 3 weeks ago when I had to replace my intake manifold. I disconnected the battery without turning the system to "off". I have been doing a bunch of reading online, and it seems I may have thrown the system's sync off by doing this.
Right now my problem is this, colder air coming from the pass side then the driver’s side. When I start the car it will seem synched for a few seconds, then it will start blinking and both vents will go FULL COLD, eventually it brings the temp back up the d-side gets hotter than the p-side. I have done the following:
- gone through AT LEAST 50 on/off cycles
- Removed the 9c fuse to try to reset
- Pulled down the glove box door and watched both the upper and lower blend doors go through there whole range of movement (which they do)
- Tried to re-sync by pushing the temp full hot, then full cold a few times in a row.
Besides getting this scanned by a tech 2, which is my last resort, is there anything else I can do?
1997 buick lesabre, 4 door, v6. It was having problem stalling out. This weekend a friend and I lifted the car and replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump. Drove great Saturday and Sunday. Today I get in the car, starts up without a hitch. I start heading down my street and realize I am having to push my brake pedal in ALL THE WAY to get it to stop and even then it's slow to stop. So I back up, pull the hood and check the brake fluid. Sure enough, it's low, so I run to Advance, grab some fluid and fill it up the max line and think i'm ok. Start the car up, pump the brakes a few time and notice nothing new. I get out and realize I have a very steady leak in front of the right rear wheel of fluid. It's a steady drip in two places. Is there something I could have done to have caused this. The only line we messed with on Saturday was the emergency brake line and it's clearly working (I tested it).
View 1 RepliesWe just 3-inches of rain in 12-hour period and got some water on rug in front of driver seat but standing water to the rear of the drivers seat. We had this problem before and blew out the leaves and debris underneath the screen type cover that runs the width of the front window along the bottom of the window.
View 5 Replies95 Buick Lesabre 3.8L. After replacing a broken 6" swaybar strut on the driver's side I noticed a clunking when hitting bumps on the passenger's side. (These sizes are approximate). There is a large thick 2ft long by 4"wide bar behind the front passenger wheel. The bar has 2 large bushings on both ends. The bushings are about 2 1/2" wide. The rubber bushings and support screws or rods are loose. I suspect that this is a piece of subframe. Autozone said that they cannot get the replacement bushings. Where do I get these bushings and should I look for anything else that may be damaged or worn out?
View 1 Replies2006 6.0l ... I've read all over for tips on routing this belt and everyone plays it off as being some simple '20-minute' task. I'm on my 4th hour on this now.
I can't figure out how to route the belt around the tensioner pulley, circled in the picture (from another thread). Everyone glosses over how to do this and I can't figure it out.
It seems like the only way to get it on is to bend the belt and slide it between the pulley and the block, but that I just can't reach the blasted thing.
Which way do you turn to loosen the bolt that holds the tensioner pulley to the tensioner arm?
View 1 RepliesI can't get my passenger door open. The car has electric door locks, they are working, the door does have a key, it works, both handles seem ok, but the door does not unlatch. I can't get the inside panel off since it is closed. I'm considering trying pop a lock???
View 1 RepliesMy car started overheating and when I got under the hood I noticed that one of the belts was torn up pretty good. I'm guessing that this belt runs the fans or something. I am wondering what the name of this belt is and how hard it would be to replace?
The picture looks too small to be able to see it, but it's the belt on the right side of the engine block, next to the oil dipstick. The second picture loaded upside down.
I replaced the belt tensioner. Today, after much prodding, I noticed the tensioner is rattling which is weird considering is only a year and some months old. The question is what can cause the tensioner to rattle? The belt is fine, is not cracked and it sits fine on the pulleys.
View 4 RepliesI needed to tighten the belt tensioner up, but couldn't find a DIY. So reaching out to see if this is normal? If not how do I tighten it up?
Here lately the car has been idling funny, kinda sounds like it has a cam or something, once I accelerate it smooths out fine. I thought it was a loose clamp on my intake to the turbo but once I got that clamped down correctly it still was idling this way.
The oil cooler mounted above the oil filter on my 2002 Explorer 4.0L V6 has a major coolant leak on one of the external line/hose bib elbow. I've googled Explorer oil coolers and I've searched this forum with no luck. Can you bypass it without any problems mechanically or electronically (throwing error codes)? I have already purchased a new cooler and the lower oil cooler line. I'm just wondering if I should return the parts and bypass it. If I go through the replacement, I noticed the cooler is mounted by a pass through threaded tube with a hex head molded into it for fastening/loosening purposes. What size hex head socket it is?
View 12 RepliesFirst off I have a issue the Timing Belt Tensioner Stud / bolt that holds my tensioner on is stripped and came out with my tensioner. I don't want to risk putting it back into the engine because some one prior to owning my car stripped the nut that holds it in. Where I could get a new one of these bolts. I have a 2000 VW Golf GL with a 2.0l. I've searched high and low on parts sites and cannot figure out where to buy this item.
View 3 RepliesI've replaced the serpentine belt on a 06 Pontiac G6 (6cyl) and I noticed at idle the tensioner has a slight bounce to it... Is that normal? It goes away when you hit the gas. Apparently the tensioner was replaced less than a year ago
I attached a short video. [URL] ....
During the 120000km (75000mi) service my Toyota local service said I have a noisy Prius and that the sound is from the belt tensioner bearing.
As I bought it used and always heard the same sound. I've made a video ....
How to replace the belt tensioner. It's not putting out enough tension when the engine is cold. So, the belt makes chirping noise for couple of minutes idling when cold with AC on.
I had the AC inspected and everything checks out according to my mechanic.
He believes that the issue is with the tensioner since I had recently had replaced the serpentine belt.