Buick - Lesabre :: 1995 - Shaking At Low Speeds
Aug 11, 2013
I have a 1995 Buick LeSabre with just over 100,000 miles on it. Recently it has begun to shake at low speeds. The car shakes as if it were driving over a rough gravel road, and makes a sort of chugging noise when I step on the accelerator at speeds from 15-25 miles per hour. When I accelerate beyond 25, the shaking stops, and the car stops making the chugging noise as well. It drives beautifully on the interstate, but horribly when I am in town. After taking the car for a drive on the interstate for about 30 minutes one day, the shaking at low speeds actually ceased for over a week, but then came back. The "check engine" light has not come on. I maintain the car regularly, getting oil and filters changed, fluids filled, etc. I'm wondering if this sounds like it could be caused by a problem I can fix myself, or if I need to have the car looked at by a professional.
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I have a 1995 buick Lasbre and my engine light is on my car would cut off every once and a while. but when it does it cranks right back up like its a sortage in the wires people say it is an electrical problem i thought it was my crank sensor but my car has never had a problem cranking up it sounds wonderful when it cranks up so whats my problem....
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Where is the PCV valve is located?
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my 1995 buick lasbre cuts on fine and drive ok but when i start it as soon as i turn and drive itcuts off but after it cuts right back on and drive ok
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I'm driving a 95 buick lesabre, good condition, clean, 130k miles on it. 2 months ago the car started stalling and then it died. Took it to a shop, replaced all original fuel pump and fuel lines. Repeat this about 3 more times, all in all, the fuel pump, fuel lines, map sensor, mass airflow sensor have been replaced. Yesterday, the same thing happened. Took it to a different mechanic, he says he drove it for two days and couldn't find anything wrong with it. Is there anything specific in a 95 lesabre that could be causing this? It drives fine for a while, and then out of nowhere it starts to stall, then the car dies and check engine light comes on. Gas is kept above half a tank due to winter conditions and the fact that it's an old car.
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I seem to lose power steering pressure when I hold the wheel in a turn. It is only temporary as it cycles until I release the turn. I happens turning in both directions and a any speed. I have replaced the struts and strut mounts and have rotated the tires. The power steering fluid quantity is good with no leaks.1995 Buick Lesabre.
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My 1995 buick lasabre cuts on fine and drive ok but when i start it and barley drive or turn it cuts off but after it cuts right back on and drive...
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I've got a 1995 Buick LeSabre that has a curious problem with the air conditioner. The AC blows good and cold, but when I accelerate the air stops blowing from the vents. I can still hear the fan running, so it's like the air is being redirected somewhere. Now, once I get up to speed after accelerating, if I let off the accelerator for a second, the AC resumes blowing normally.
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My 1995 Buick Lesabre will intermittently drain the battery after sitting for about 12 hours. It is unpredictable. The battery was newly installed in December, 2010 and the alternator was tested at that time and about three weeks ago and proved to be recharging properly. This battery kill happens even when there is no visible sign of current usage, such as a dome light being left on. What I should look for in order to to find the source of the current drain?
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95 Buick Lesabre 3.8L. After replacing a broken 6" swaybar strut on the driver's side I noticed a clunking when hitting bumps on the passenger's side. (These sizes are approximate). There is a large thick 2ft long by 4"wide bar behind the front passenger wheel. The bar has 2 large bushings on both ends. The bushings are about 2 1/2" wide. The rubber bushings and support screws or rods are loose. I suspect that this is a piece of subframe. Autozone said that they cannot get the replacement bushings. Where do I get these bushings and should I look for anything else that may be damaged or worn out?
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My 2001 Buick Lesabre 3.8 loses power at highway speeds, sets a PO101 code (MAF sensor). I have replaced the MAF sensor 3 times, as well as the coolant temperature sensor, the crank position sensor, the throttle position sensor, the MAP sensor, the intake manifold gaskets (upper and lower) , the pcv valve, the egr valve, the Idle air control sensor. After cruising at highway speed for about 3 miles the car still loses power for about 20 seconds then gradually regains power only to repeat the fault again 3 or 4 miles down the road.
Otherwise the car has plenty of power quickly achieving 100+ mph going though the gears smoothly and normally. I have inspected the intake plenum and vacuum hoses for leaks and have found none, all in very good condition. The car ha 122,000 miles on it and has been well cared for, very clean under the hood with no leaks. I did reduce the egr chimney size to 3/8" while replacing the intake gaskets and that reduced the symptoms somewhat, i.e., the car only loses about 15 mph instead of dropping to about 25 mph before recovering.
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My 1995 LeSabre (3800 v6, 62K miles) has a stalling problem, no engine power, but still has electric. It happens randomly and intermittently. Most times it will restart but has been increasingly difficult to restart. The only indicator prior to stalling is the speedometer "surges" and then the loss of power. Dash lights come on (oil, voltage, CEL). Sometimes the CEL will flash in time with a fast clicking that I believe comes from the fuel pump relay under the right side of the dash. Until this clicking stops the engine will not restart. I have replaced ignition control module, and then the crank and cam sensors. Replaced PCM with rebuilt and it was worse (defective?) and put the old one back in. Mechanic can't find any codes to determine what is causing it to stall, except possibly PCM is bad.
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Got a strange one here. 1995 Buick Park Avenue, supercharged 3800, 159K miles... an older car, but an unmolested one. A little over a week ago I began to notice an occasional miss when cruising along at highway speeds, along with a slightly rougher idle. Both the fuel filter and the plugs/wires predated my ownership of the car (a little more than 6 months); so seeing no obvious culprit, I replaced them and hoped for improvement.
Unfortunately, neither had any impact. The missing continued to become more noticeable. It was never present under acceleration. Most of it was like a split-second long version of "bucking" that could be observed while cruising at lower (<2000) RPMs. It was also very noticeable at idle. Eventually a code was set: P0341, camshaft sensor issue. If the story had ended there, it would have been just another night in the garage. But it didn't.
As I was noticing the aforementioned symptom increase, I also noticed my voltmeter would occasionally "twitch" in the downward direction. Eventually I had an incident where I came to a stoplight... transmission in Drive, foot on brake, gauge dropped to around 10-11v. It returned to 14v momentarily, but dropped back down, held there for several seconds, returned, etc. No particular rhyme or rhythm. Of course my first guess was that the alternator was failing; a separate problem from the other.
I checked all the relevant connections (at the battery, at the alternator, etc), and cleaned them for good measure. All were tight, relatively clean, and the cables showed no resistance on the ohmmeter. It happened that I had another correct alternator on hand (used/working pull), so I swapped it in. No change. I reinstalled the original and was back where I started.
On my most recent drive, I noticed both issues had become very noticeable. The drop in voltage was happening at nearly every stop, and the missing was happening a few times per minute while coasting along. There seemed to be some correlation between the missing and voltage fluctuating, but it wasn't absolute.
I decided to attack the voltage issue again. Re-checked all the cables; same result as before (all OK). Looked all over the car for possible bad grounds, loose connections, or other visible problems, but found none. My next thought was to run a jumper from B+ to the voltage regulator's Sense input (have seen issues there on more than a few older vehicles) - but after reading that this car uses the PCM as the voltage regulator, I didn't proceed.
Just to be certain I'm going to have the alternator tested by the local auto parts store. But I suspect it'll pass.
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I have recently noticed that my car will stall out when I get up to about 20 mph. My car starts fine, no check engine light on. I has a tendency to just die in the middle of the road at times too. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and a new fuel filter. Do I need to change the mass air flow sensor? Or the crank position sensor? I have no problems starting the car either. Runs good when it runs.
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Where is the relay box for turn and hazard signals in 98 Buick LeSabre custom? my hazards ans signals don't work switched fuses but didn't work. Where the box is I've never owned a Buick til now. there isn't one under the hood just the main on the driver's side.
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1996 buick lesabre custom 3800. The car stalls from time to time, and the fuel pump, power windows, power seats, and power mirrors all stop working. Most people who have had this problem cleaned the ground bus on the drivers side under the carpet. I have done this, and the car has not stalled yet, but I haven't driven it far because I have noticed the fuel pump relay and power windows relay are getting extremely hot to the touch after 5 minutes or so of driving. Why these relays are getting so hot? I cannot afford to keep getting the car towed home.
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My 2001 Buick Lesabre has always shown to run exactly normal on the temperature dash unit until recently. I checked my coolant level and it was a bit low, so I added. After I filled the radiator I have noticed a coolant leak spot on my driveway, after I drive it now. I have removed the gravel shield and have tried to pin point exactly where the leak is coming from, but cannot. Now, each time I park, after driving it, I put a clean piece of cardboard under it to try to see exactly what area the leak is coming from. Last night I put the car on ramps and crawled under to discover that the leak is located just above the oil filter and is actually dripping from the oil filter, but I still cannot see the exact location of the leak.Actually the leak does not appear until about an hour after I park the car, so it sounds like something is contracting after the engine has cooled off, but what? The leak has seemed to be getting worse each time I drive the car. How can I determine exactly where the leak is coming from without just changing a bunch of parts.
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I currently have no brake fluid in my car because it keeps leaking out (leaks while actively being used). The leak is between the power brake booster and the brake master cylinder... Is there any type of gasket I can get to better fill the gap between the two pieces of metal? Is there some way to tell which of the two pieces is creating the leak to narrow down which to purchase?
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My car would not start yesterday, and I realized the fuel pump was not running. So I bought a new fuel pump today and put it on, the car still won't start, the fuel pump still does not run and I have been told to check the relay. I cannot find the relay for this car.
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My '98 Buick's AC works well when I take it to a mechanic. But when I leave after they say, 'it seems fine now,' a few miles later the cold air starts blowing through the defroster vents, still nice and cold. Then it comes back down to the dash and then goes back up to the defrost. But sometimes it stops blowing altogether, it doesn't blow anywhere! Nothing, not even warm air. And then later everything is fine again, until it happens all over again and I take it to another shop when I hear 'it seems fine now.'.
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I have been to a few different repair shops for my 2000 Buick Le Sabre shimmy problem with no luck. I have a really bad shimmy, while accelerating between 45 and 50 mph, and it seems worse on an upgrade. Past 50 mph, it smooths out. Over the past several months, mechanics have checked the balance of my tires and rotated them, done front end alignment, rear alignment, replaced the right lower control arm, the right sway bar link and the right wheel hub. Still no luck, so it came down to the determination that it must be a bad tire. Now I have 4 new tires (it was soon time to get them anyway), and I still have the shimmy. What else can we look for? My local mechanics seems stumped. I have not taken it to a Buick dealership, however...
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