Buick - Century :: Tail / Parking And Dashboard Lights Are Out
Oct 3, 2012
My car is a 1992 Buick Century with a 3.3 liter V6. My tail lights, parking lights and dashboard lights are out. I checked the fuse in the fuse panel and it's good. The light switch is good, I confirmed it by inserting a voltmeter in the empty fuse socket and turning the switch on and off. The wiring diagrams in my manual are not useful. The diagrams don't include the lighting circuits. Is there another hidden fuse someplace? Could it be a bad relay? If so, where the lamp relays are located?
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My tail lights parking lights and dash board lights stop working my turning signals work my brake lights work and my headlights work fine I checked all fuses are good I even switched out the headlight switch with a new one and nothing. What can this problem be?
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I have a '97 Buick Century. I noticed the smell of coolant, and the "Low Coolant" light flashed on the dashboard. However, according to the temp gauge on the dashboard, the car was at normal temperature. I pulled over and opened the hood. The coolant in the overflow tank (not the radiator) was boiling, and sputtering out.
I took the vehicle to a nearby shop, where they said it needed a new "Coolant Level Switch." They told me they put a new one in and did a coolant flush, and sent me on my way.
About a mile down the road, the "Low Coolant Light" came on again. I pulled over and found that there was ZERO coolant in the engine. I filled it myself, and continued driving. Over the next few days, I checked the coolant every day and it stayed normal. I drove a bit, but never more than a few minutes, so the car didn't have a chance to overheat.
Then, today, I drove it a good distance for the first time since the original incident. After a few minutes of driving, I smelled coolant and pulled over. The coolant in the overflow tank was once again boiling and bubbling out. What it might be?
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I start the car and everything looks good. I drive 10 feet and the ABS and Brake light come on at the same time. I replaced the "ABS CONTROL MODULE UNIT COMPUTER" that was under the dash by the steering column but that didn't work. Brakes feel firm and strong. Breaks well. What next?
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Usually, the interior lights ( e.g. over rear doors ) will turn off after a while...but now they stay on as well as the two lights on the rear view mirror.
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A couple of weeks ago my 2005 Buick century start making a noise when i hit the brakes and all the lights on the dash lit up like a christmas tree. The noise it makes when i hit the brakes is like humming sound and the pedal will get kinda spungy and push in and out, if i keep driving it stops and all the lights come on (abs, trac off, service engine, and sometimes the brake light as if the parking brake is on) after all these lights come on the noises stop and the brake pedal works fine. I was told that the anti lock brake pump was going bad but I didn't realize there was a pump.
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My 2000 Buick Century has an issue that whenever it rains really hard, after driving a while the ABS, Trac Off, and Service Vehicle Soon lights come on. I am assuming that part of the electrical connections are getting wet and causing the lights to come on. When there is no rain, obviously the lights don't come on. It's only done it one other time and it did it today. I was just curious what to do to fix it, before I jump into looking at all electrical connections which we all know can be hard to diagnose. By the way, the car has 64,000 miles on it if that makes any difference.
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My backup lights only work when I have one bulb or the other installed but not both. The other 4 mini lights in the same circuit on the trunk work. The backup lights do not work at all when the headlights are on. Could it be the backup light relay and where is that located? I checked wiring on the trunk and multiple bulbs.
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My running/tail lights and my dashboard lights don't work. Every other light works though(low/high beams, reverse, break). I don't know much about cars but My neighbor just put in a new relay and the running lights worked fine for about a week. Then the dashboard lights started flickering on & off for a day or two & now I don't have dashboard or running lights at all.
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Ive got a '14 Pip, no new mods all my mods are atlas 6 months old. When I turn on my headlights at night and make sure the dimmer switch, by the fuel tank button, inside the cabin, is dimmed, the headlights work, the front parking lights work, the brake lights work ( WHEN I STEP ON THE PEDAL), but they don't turn on when I just have the parking lights on with out braking. So, to clarify, the parking lights (the two strip that are used as brake lights (led)) they don't turn on. what could it be? Some fuse? I made sure to cycle the column stalk switch a few times, and the dimmer switch a few times. Could removing and reattaching battery fix it? Should I take it to the dealer (~85k miles).
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Someone told my wife yesterday that her parking lights/tail lights weren't working in her 2004 Prius. When you turn the switch on the stalk one click, only the license plate light comes on. No parking/tail lights come on in the back, and the little lights above the headlights don't come on. Turn the switch another click, and the headlights come on. The brake lights work when you hit the brakes. I checked the fuses: the owner's manual doesn't really match what is in the car, so I checked a lot, and the ones I checked were all fine.
I used up all my diagnosing time deciphering the owner's manual and figuring out the fuses, so I didn't check the bulbs themselves yet (and now it's late, dark, and cold) but it seems really unlikely all 4 of these lights are out at once. Someone else in the forum had a problem where their parking lights only came on when their high beams were on, so I tried that, but that didn't make mine work. There's no history of mysterious electrical problems or collisions. I am able to do some DIY maintenance, and replaced the MFD twice, but have a healthy respect for electricity and don't have any tools beyond a voltage meter.
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I just bought my first Ford its an 1996 f250 powerstroke, and I am having issues with it. Every time I push in the brake both blinkers come on and tail lights and upper parking lights on cab, and when I turn on a blinker everything flashes.
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I have a 1989 Buick LaSabre that is having some problems and no mechanic seems to be able to figure it out. After 4 computer items totally $1,800.00 since March, the same problem started again yesterday. I am driving through the hills to town and the dashboard lights all come on and my engine cuts out. I stop, put in park and restart and take off again. As soon as I am on the highway, car runs fine. It has something to do with the fuel system I believe because once it cuts out the car smells like lots of gas but after it starts back up (and it does every time) the smell goes away.
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Driving home from work around 10pm. Leo started explaining that i had no taillights on but the brakes worked. He was right. I came home and found out my parking light fuse under the steering column was blown. I replaced the mini 10-amp fuse with a spare and they started working again. Then later, they stopped working again. Only thing i have installed electronic upgrade wise is after market LED fog lights(which went out with the parking lights but both came back on with the new fuse) and Navi bypass. What could it be?????
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I have a 2000 Ford F250 lariat 7.3 .... This vehicle has an aftermarket double din stereo pillar gauges for Pyro meter and transmission temp and has also had a snowplow attached but since re moved since I purchased it. It also has H ID headlights, which are run by the passenger side headlight connection.
The problem I'm having is that whenever I turn on the parking lights it is blowing the number eight fuse under the hood. Which is giving me no dash lights running lights parking lights or taillights. Initially the fuse would last for a few minutes and then burn out. I should also add that the trailer wiring harness doesn't work either and the driver side headlight will work sporadically.
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I have a 2000 Buick Century that I cannot get to start. While my wife was driving home it started to sputter (like running out of gas) and did a little back firing. She made it home and I put in some gas (Just to make sure) and the care cranks over but will not start. I have replaced the fuel filter, checked the spark plugs and replaced the CAM Sensor. The car still will not start.
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My wife has a 2000 Buick Century with about 150,000 miles on it. It has been relatively trouble free. Recently, the "low coolant" light began to come on.She took the car into a garage where she was told there was oil in the coolant and the sensor had been compromised. The cooling system was flushed and cleaned and a new sensor installed. The "low coolant" light continued to come on. She took the car back in. She was told the wrong sensor had been installed. When she went back for the car the second time, she was told the oil in the coolant was preventing the new sensor from working and there was nothing more the garage could do. I went in and asked questions, primarily how serious was the condition, and couldn't get a straight answer.
We are due to drive to Florida in November. My wife would like to take it to a garage there. Is it save to drive it as is? What are the implications of oil mixing with coolant? What is causing it to happen?
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My 03 Buick century is overheating. I changed the thermostat and the water pump. And still overheats as soon As I start driving. I am also getting when it is overheating some misfiring in cylindar 1. I am going to reflush and bleed the coolant even though it seems to be full . i dont think it is disappearing. Is it Possible i have a blown headgasket or intake manifold leak?
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I am having a very tricky problem with my Buick.
For approximately the last 4 months, it has been (at least according to the heat gauge on the dash) running pretty hot. Not overheating, but getting close. And it doesn't take long for it to get there. This all seems to have begun right around the time that my father and I flushed the coolant system.
Since then, I have replaced some parts, and learned a few things in the process.
I learned that there are bleeder screws which can be opened to let air bubbles out. And I have heard that the 3.1L is especially susceptible to them.
New parts which I have installed:
- thermostat
- coolant temperature sensor
- radiator cap
- upper radiator hose
- lower radiator hose
I have checked the water pump and it seems to be perfectly fine. No leaks. No signs of bad bearings. And it circulates coolant just fine. I have not been witness to either cooling fan, primary or auxiliary, switching on in a while.
The exact symptoms are these:
The heat gauge does not take long to get to mid-way point, but will sit at that point for a bit if the vehicle remains stationary. Once the vehicle is in significant motion, the heat gauge will climb fairly quickly, especially with moderately high RPMs. It WON'T touch the red though, but will get very very close to it. The car runs fine. It does seem to be a bit underpowered, but I am comparing it to my fiance's 1996 Olds Cutlass Ciera, which I believe has a different transmission. My Buick does not seem to have lost power since this problem arose. The cooling fans no longer kick on. The oil appears fine. The coolant as well. With the radiator cap off, coolant does not bubble out or shoot out.
I made sure after changing upper and lower hoses to fill the radiator, let the car run long enough for the thermostat to open, and then slowly poured more coolant into the radiator until it was full again. And the reservoir is at proper level and the the reservoir hose s not clogged.
I am not SURE, but I don't believe the radiator is clogged. I believe that covers it, at least as well as I can.
BTW, I do not know where the fan relays are, otherwise I would test the fans to see if they still work.
What the heck is up with my Buick? Also, it has 97,xxx miles on it, and the transmission fluid is at proper level and looks normal.
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2002 Buick century will sometimes not start. Seems to correlate with warmer weather and happens after long drives. I try to restart within 10 minutes of turning off and it will start and then in a few seconds the car shakes and the engine dies. I can restart multiple times, but it will always die in a couple of seconds. If I wait an hour and retry, no problem. Once someone banged on the gas tank and that solved it. Mechanic cannot diagnose problem unless it dies while he is there. Should I replace the fuel pump or could it be something else?
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My grandpa's old wood paneled station wagon is sick. The idle seems to be getting rougher and rougher with every time I kill the battery (I've somehow left my headlights on four times in the past two months and needed a jump). It's to a point now where if I don't throw it in neutral at stop lights and keep a tiny bit of gas on the engine it stalls out.
Notes:*When it first gets jumped after being dead, if I stop even for a second, it dies instantly.*While cruising - it is fine. *It idles smoother stopped in neutral than it does stopped and in drive. *It seems a bit rougher with the engine is cold, but still rough and can stall with the engine hot. *Some random times it idles just fine (like for example the first few seconds on start up, and then it sounds like the engine is decreasing in rpm automatically, and then it is rough again).
Could the dying battery and rough idle be related?? The battery guy says "if it starts fine, the battery is fine" (it does start fine, although keeping the radio on for 20 minutes without it running will kill it).
Also other problems with my car in case this has anything to do with it: *I have a leaky tail pipe*my ABS has recently been randomly engaging at low speeds (next problem to work on...)
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