Buick - Century :: 1999 - Security Light Blinking For A While Then Go Solid
Sep 11, 2011
Ok, got a 99 Buick Century that is a cantankerous old hag. It doesn't like to start sometimes. naturally when i really need to get somewhere. The security light blinks at me for a while, goes solid, then i cycle the ignition and hope it will start. It happens with multiple keys and remote start(which has been removed multiple times because each mechanic thinks that will magically fix it). No rhyme or reason, it sends no code, the local buick dealership couldn't figure it out. I think its my security computer. what is the easiest/cheapest diy solution besides get full coverage and leave it in the ghetto with the keys and hope it ends up on cops? battery is fine, it starts normally most of the month, just maybe a handful of times a month it won't. Starter I believe is still good as well, and gets voltage when it starts. Fuel pump audibly works all the time.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
The car is a 1994 Buick Century, 3.1L V6, ~ 80k miles. Four months ago she wouldn't start, so I got a new alternator and battery put in. A month later, while on a short road trip, the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree the whole drive home (ABS, airbag, check engine, battery) and the voltmeter bounced around from mid-high to red-zone high. Thinking it was a bad reman, the alternator was replaced again when we got home. A few weeks went by and all seemed to be going well with the new alternator until, after driving around the city for a while, the airbag light started blinking intermittently.
Accompanying the blinking, the battery gauge again was bouncing around. Eventually, when accelerating from a stop, the car stuttered when moving forward, the battery light flickered, and the ABS light stayed on. Worried that I'd burn up another alternator, I had a mechanic look at it before my next trip. He checked the alternator/battery loads and pulley and said that nothing looked wrong. On the next trip, the intermittent airbag light blinking and voltage fluctuation returned as well as a single episode of stuttering from a stop... these things all only seem to happen after at least an hour on the road.
TO RECAP: Voltmeter gauge steady sometimes, bouncy other times... but usually too high. Airbag light blinks intermittently (seems to happen only after car is warm). Sometimes (rarely) the car will jerk from a stop, at which point the ABS light stays on. No check engine lights. Battery and alternator are new. Same problems (voltmeter in red, warning lights) occurred with last alternator until it burnt up. It seems like a voltage regulation / alternator problem, but the same symptoms occurred with two different alternators (with two different internal voltage regulators). I suspect that there is some electrical problem (short?) that is causing the fluctuating voltage and the tendency for the car to burn up alternators so frequently. However, I don't know much of anything about cars. Does that sound right? If so, where do I even start?
View 1 Replies
My intrigue security light has come on and its solid... Some say I can't drive it any longer because it will stop on me and the fuel won't come thru" !!
1) Is it my (BCM) I have never had this light to come on so this is new to me..
2)What exactly is this ,
3)and what is it used for.??
4)Will I be locked out ??
5)How long before it won't start up??
View 5 Replies
Currently I have a 1998 Buick Century Custom having turn signal issues.
The front left blinker is not blinking. Understandably, with this malfunction, the rear left blinker blinks rapidly when the turn signal switch is in the left turn signal position. However, when I put the hazard lights on, BOTH rear blinkers blink normally as does the front right blinker.
When the headlights are on, the amber-colored blinker bulb remains lit (left front). The right side front and rear blinkers work great.
I have checked the fuses, replaced the bulb and cleaned the socket of the front left blinker and still have no results. While my next guess would be that the flasher unit is the problem, I don't believe the rear, or front right blinkers would blink if that was the problem.
View 1 Replies
I have replaced radiator and thermostat, awhile back.. I checked and there is antifreeze in the radiator and the reservoir. I don't drive it unless i really have to. and not to far,lots more work to do on it. But the coolant light started blinking the other day. Temperature gauge inside is ok. What could this be? what should I do? Still haven't got the blower working, heater / ac / defrost.
View 5 Replies
2000 Maxima - I just changed the head gaskets, got it back together and no start, no spark, solid security light and linking error to ecu. 50 miles to a nissan dealer. I have 12v to the injectors but no ground, I just checked spark last night and have none. I tried all three keys, will no battery for a month or two cause key security issues? I hate to drag it to Nissan and have them tell me I need a new ecu for a few thousand dollars. Does a security issue cause a linking issue?
View 13 Replies
I just changed my ignition cylinder, and now my s-10 won't start. I've done the telltale thing, and all that does is kill my battery. The security light never stops blinking like they said it would after 10 minutes.
View 2 Replies
2 days ago i drove to a store, went in and came back out, started the car up and the EPS light was on. It would switch from either blinking or solid on. The steering still to this point works just fine, and i can not feel any difference in it.
The next day while i was waiting for a ride to get the car dropped at the garage, i went to start the car up and it was drained. Lights still came on but it didnt have enough to turn over. Upon a jump it worked fine, and would continue to run ok. It would restart after that quite a few times, even with full electric load on before starting(ac/radio/all lights/so on). Battery tested at 30% charge and 12v output, couldnt check amps at auto zone because of low charge. Since its factory battery from a 2010 model i just went and replaced it anways.
Since that point i have had both battery and alternator tested, both working fully. The EPS light remains on, and the car still acts 100% normal after 2 days of light driving.
Is it possible the dying battery could have some how messed with the EPS system causing that, and only that, light to turn on? If so, short of having the codes reset at the garage, would it be safe to continue light driving, or should i take it in right away?
View 5 Replies
It's the same every time. forty minutes into a drive and the TPMS light starts blinking. It blinks for about three minutes and then goes solid. After two minutes or so the light goes off completely. Every time I check, my tire pressure is perfect. I carry a good analog gauge with me and monitor pressure obsessively.
View 4 Replies
My buick has a weird problem, basically it wont start the security light comes on, nothing and i mean absolutely nothing works inside of the car and the power window circuit breaker under the back seat is burning hot, obviously its an electrical problem but I am thinking its the body control module but I want to be sure .... what it could be?
View 5 Replies
Since i have owned my car the brake and ABS lights have been on (bought it like 2 months ago) i have a solid ABS light, and as long as the ebrake is down the brake light blinks.
Through searching I found that i most likely have a bad abs module. Before I take it out and send it to get repaired, i was wondering if there is anything else that i could check.
I also used VAGCOM to try and talk to the brakes and there is no response from the controller.
View 3 Replies
Recently I failed my inspection on my 99 Passat due to a blinking brake light. I was told by VW service department that this was caused by a bad ABS unit. Now I can't pass inspection without proving that my brakes are fine but the ABS module is causing the blinking parking light.
View 1 Replies
I first thought my issue might be the ignition switch or maybe the neutral safety switch but through some info I've come to realize that my issue appears to be from the anti theft system. I did a test where I turned key to start and backed off to run and then leave car for 10 minutes. I did this 3 times and it was supposed to go around the security system and then try to start but it didn't. I went through two trials with the same result. On the first of 3 times in each of the two trials the security light was not on but the 2nd and 3rd times it stayed on. I've heard this problem can be nearly impossible to trace and repair.
View 10 Replies
Every once-in-a-while I've noticed a "security" light is illuminated on my dash-board. When this happens, I can't start my 92' Buick LeSabre for about 5-minutes or so. Aggravating, to say the least. Is there something I can do? Including "disabling" it?
View 2 Replies
My 2.8 v6 2000 has been acting wierd when shifting it kind of feels like the clutch is slipping its through acceleration so when the rpm's are climbing it feels like it is slipping but than above 3 rpms it accelerates with no problem, when it feels like it is slipping the check engine light blinks, obviously telling you to stop driving, but than the check engine light goes back to a solid warning and stops blinking. just had my oil changed and after that my check engine light came on solid, now it is sluggishly bumpy when accelerating and feels like the clutch is not catching,Wish i knew what it could be.
View 2 Replies
I bought a 2005 RX330 a couple months ago. It now has 48,500 miles. The following happened 3 times while driving:
The ABS, Brake, and VSC lights come on solid and the Low Tire Pressure light blinks. Things go back to normal after I turn the engine off and start it again.
Dealer wants to see it first before they do anything about it. Problem is that every time it happened the dealer was closed. I live about an hour away and I’m not even sure I want to drive for one hour while these lights are on.
Reading some postings it seems like this was a known issue with the 2004 models (brake light switch). Same problem with a 2005 model?
View 11 Replies
The ESC warning light has started coming on intermittently on my 06 GLS. Stays solid, not blinking. Turning the car off and starting again resets it but never for long.
The brake light switch was already replaced once at 36K miles. It's now at about 84,500. Do these things have a history of going bad multiple times?
For what it's worth, my little ELM327 ODB II plug-in gadget shows no faults but it may not be able to see the right data. I'm taking it back to the dealer in the morning, where they probably won't fix it and probably will break something else.
View 4 Replies
Ok...so I drove my car last night about 120 miles and all was well. Got up this morning to go run some errands and the car started acting weird, sputtering. The check engine light was blinking on and off, then it came on solid and stayed on. I haven't checked the code yet.
2004 Jetta GLI1.8 T Manual Transmission
View 7 Replies
Replaced sensor, light stays on.Removed sensor, grounded the probe, light goes out.Replaced antifreeze, bled system twice, no air or oil.Getting desperate. Removed and cleaned battery to body ground strap.Removed and cleaned battery to engine ground strap.Today found out there is no error code in the OBC but the light is still!
View 1 Replies
Ran scanner and it showed codes C1215, C1226 and C1233. We checked the passenger front and found the wire to the sensor hanging off. It was damp inside so we dried it as much as we could. We reconnected the wire and tested. The light still on. We ran the scanner again, Only one code came up C1233. The book says ( Right front wheel speed circuit open or shorted)
C1233 - Right Front Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
Read more at: [URL] .....
View 2 Replies
I have a 2003 Buick Century 3.1L. The airbag light goes on randomly. I realize that it is supposed to go on momentarily after I start the engine. Sometimes the light will stay lit for one or more drives and sometimes it will stay off for one or more drives. I have checked the fuse; it is good. I have tried smacking the airbag on the steering and the dash...the light remains lit. I have seen a bundle of wires on the back side of the fuse box and am not sure whether I should try to trace the fuse wire back to both locations or what to do next. Is there some trick of the trade like a reset button and what do you think I should try next?
View 2 Replies