Buick - Century :: 1999 - Hesitate During Acceleration / Stalled - Code P0102
Jul 15, 2015
1999 buick century custom .. 3100 motor .. 200k+ miles ..
It all Started 2months ago.. once every few weeks my car would hesitate during acceleration (leaving a light for example) but just once.Then started it up one day and it was idling rough..also stalled out twice.
Dropped it off at a shop after hours so he could check it out in the A.M.he calls n says its not acting up at all.
Get the car back and drive it 2 more weeks..then it happens again. Rough idle and hesitating...take it directly to the shop but its acting normal again by the time I get there (starting to feel like im crazy)
So I take things into my own hands... I change air filter, clean MAF and throttle body. Change the plugs and wires.
start it up and it seemed to run better than it ever has.. for about 5mins.I took it for a test drive and it started sputtering and bucking and eventually died to the point of undrivable.
Got towed home.NOW it starts dang near everytime but runs EXTREMELY rough for a few seconds before eventually dying. It will run a bit longer if I unplug the MAF (45seconds maybe) but runs like fecal matter the whole time
I have swapped out the MAF, EGR valve and IAC valve with parts from a 97 century (which runs fine)And nothing seemed to change the condition.
Changed fuel filterchecked fuel pressure with key on (41psi)Also replaced the timing chain and gears (thinking it slipped) but it didnt make a difference.
I pulled codes but all it had was a P0102 (MAF low input)But I think that might be from it being unplugged so many times?
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Ok, my 1996 Buick Regal is acting up. I got a CEL, which was a P0306 (Cylinder #6 misfire), took the car to my shop, and they diagnosed as a faulty Ignition Control Module. Fast Forward, a day later, the car now has a hard start problem and throwing the same code, plus a P0102 Mass Airflow Sensor.
So my questions are:
1) Could a faulty ICM cause a single cylinder misfire, did they just replaced a random part? I would think a bad ICM would a multiple misfire considering on this car each coil controls 2 cylinders.
2) Are the two codes related? ie fix one, and the other would go away? or are they separate issues?
3) What could be wrong with my car?
This mechanic has been in my family for years, however, I'm not very pleased that a day later, my car seems to have more problems than before. Am I being too harsh?
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I am having some trouble with my 02 Buick recently. The acceleration from a stop is very sluggish and gear changes come slowly, although they still seem to shift smoothly. The first thing I did was check the fluid levels and I can find nothing wrong there. The trans fluid was last changed 3 years ago, but the level, color, and smell are all normal so surely that couldn't be the culprit ?Unfortunately, that about exhausts my diagnostic skill.
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2004 Buick Century. 3100 motor. 150k miles... Recently discovered strange noise but not sure exactly how long its been happening. (I listen to the radio pretty loud)
Engine sounds normal at start/idle (hot and cold). During acceleration I hear a constant ticking/tapping/clattering at a decent volume from 1st to 3rd..after 3rd it quiets down a bit but still constant. It goes away completely directly after shifting into 4th. I then cruise down the highway at 75-80 with no problem whatsoever.(It can also be heard if i rev the engine in park.)
The day I noticed it i immediately checked the oil. It was a little over a quart low. I filled it but the sound has not changed.
I wouldn't say its a full on knock but it does sound alarming like the engine could blow at any moment from 1st to 4th. Sounds perfectly fine after that.
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I have a 96 Buick century that the headlights will dim during acceleration and stay dimmed till I let off the throttle. Or they will essentially blink bright and dim at highway speeds. The weird thing is, at idle, the lights are fine!
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I have a 1996 Buick Century Custom 3.1L V6 with about 93k miles. As background, I've done quite a bit of work to the car in the last month and a half - replaced the engine with a rebuilt, replaced the catalytic converter (that was damaged when the old engine misfired badly), replaced my ignition control module and two coils, and replaced my fuel injectors as a couple weren't firing well. In addition, I replaced my EGR valve to resolve a P1406 (EGR Valve Pintle Position Sensor) code that came up last month (the original EGR valve looked to have quite a bit of carbon buildup, and was likely original to the car from 1996).
That replacement was done about 9/25, and my check engine light came on again this week. Now it's showing a P1406 (EGR Valve Pintle Position Sensor) code, and occasionally (maybe every 2-3 starts) will also have a P0300 random intermittent misfire and P1406 code shown as pending. In terms of running/performance, if I leave the car in park and give it gas once I get the pedal to about 1/2 down, around about 1800 RPM, it sounds almost like it's coughing, and that's also the case if I leave the car running and go listen/feel at the tailpipe, the exhaust seems to pulse rather than being just a steady stream. Performance wise on the road I haven't noticed any major problems - the car seems to run alright, I haven't noticed any serious misfires or performance problems, seems to have good acceleration, etc.
The one thing I will mention is when the catalytic converter was replaced the shop mentioned that my O2 sensors may need to be replaced as well down the road, as it's possible that they were damaged when the old catalytic converter was. When I checked the live data on my scan tool I do see what seem to be good values from both O2 sensors.
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I have a 1999 Buick Century which I love. Paid for, low maintenance, reliable, good interior,........ But a few years a go the Odometer stopped reading out. Then one day when it was really cold I got a reading. It warmed up the next day and it was gone and has not returned. This part of the dash is digital not mechanical. I also can not read what gear my shifter is in (so I count 1= park 2=reverse 3=drive). I have been told that this is a cluster which needs tot be fixed. After they pull the dash, then the part, repair the part and send it back to be replaced. Really....there is no light or this could be seen.
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-We have a 99 Buick with 38,000 miles. At 30,000 miles the car overheated and we had to find a mechanic in unfamiliar area. He told us car was unsafe to drive unless we had new radiator system installed (water pump, radiator flush, pressure test, radiator system flush, radiator kit (premium), anti-freeze - 2 gallons, lower and upper radiator hoses) at a cost of almost $1200.
FYI the car is in Florida full time - under cover.
Recently the "low coolant" signal has come on and after checking with a local mechanic, he said the manifold gasket was leaking and it could be fixed for about $600. We are reluctant to spend that money unless we can feel somewhat certain that the main problem is solved. We understand that at some point there was a class action suit against GM because of problems with Dex-Cool which is the required coolant for GM cars. In the meantime, we have been adding plain water to the reserve tank but are very concerned that this may cause additional damage. There is never any leakage under the car.
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Ok, got a 99 Buick Century that is a cantankerous old hag. It doesn't like to start sometimes. naturally when i really need to get somewhere. The security light blinks at me for a while, goes solid, then i cycle the ignition and hope it will start. It happens with multiple keys and remote start(which has been removed multiple times because each mechanic thinks that will magically fix it). No rhyme or reason, it sends no code, the local buick dealership couldn't figure it out. I think its my security computer. what is the easiest/cheapest diy solution besides get full coverage and leave it in the ghetto with the keys and hope it ends up on cops? battery is fine, it starts normally most of the month, just maybe a handful of times a month it won't. Starter I believe is still good as well, and gets voltage when it starts. Fuel pump audibly works all the time.
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so i just bought my '06 sonata 2.4 lt 4 cyl and it had problems with idling when i plugged into the computer i got a p0101 error code saying there was an air flow problem... took it to the dealer since it is still under warranty and for $100 they told me it was my mass air flow sensor and it would be 4 days and $370 more to replace.
I was able to buy the part from napa and replaced the old one (very simple process) and at the direction of the dealer i was told to disconnect my battery for 15 or so minutes to clear the computer data.
When i powered everything back up the car idles and runs fine but i am now getting a check engine light with p0102 lower voltage than expected from the mass airflow sensor AND a new light popped on "ESC OFF" the button will not turn it back on and i cant think of anything I did would have turned it on?
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I keep having the P0102 (MAF Circuit Low) code come up. I've replaced the MAF twice already. I also have the P0113 (Intake Air Temp Sensor) which has been replaced as well. Could the breather hose coming off the Intake Air Duct leading to the oil cooler cause this.
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Trying to get my daughters Santa Fe going. Engine stalling. Idles very slow. 2001 model with 2.4 engine, auto trans.
Code P0102 is active. Cleared with scan tool and it comes right back.
Replaced the MAF and no change.
Checked the intake for leaks / vacuum leaks and none found.
Checked for debris up-stream from MAF and all is clear.
Air filter is clean and dry.
Checked harness plug and found the pin 5 has 4.6 volts on it from PCM. This is the signal wire from MAF to PCM. 4.6 volts is KOEO.
IS THIS NORMAL OR IS PCM BAD ??? All other pins / voltages on harness plug are normal.
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So today i got my first check engine in the .:R. I was merging onto the freeway and i shifted into third rather enthusiastically (didn't redline in 2nd but i was probably at 6k rpm) and put it into 3rd gave it the gas and the tires squealed and I got the traction control light. Has me a little worried since the traction control light didn't go off afterwards. Got off the freeway and pulled into a parking lot and turned it off for a minute and when i started back up I got the check engine light also. Went to schmucks and pulled the codes and the only code I was able to pull up was P0102 MAF circuit low. I highly doubt my traction control light has anything to do with the MAF circuit. I notice when in 1st and 2nd gear (can't really tell about beyond 2nd because there is too much road noise) there is a slight whine. I cleared the codes and the check engine came back but the traction control light never went off.
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I have a 2001 Regal GS with 105K. It starts, idles and runs fine if I drive it like a Grandpa, but if I try to accelerate even 1/3 or more throttle, it surges and misses. It keeps giving a P0102 (Mass Air Flow A Circuit Low), sometimes less than a minute from resetting it, and other times after 5-10 minutes of driving. I've tried 5 MAF's, two of which were new, and one from a known good running L67 motor. Plugs are new and wires are good. The power and ground wire of the connector test good, but I'm not able to test the signal wire. I've also checked over all vacuum lines and hoses, and pressure tested the exhaust for a plugged cat. I even tried another TPS.
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Okay, I am having issues with a 1999 F250 XLT 7.3 with diablo programmer. I have searched and searched and have tried everything we could think of and it is a no go. The truck will crank, hesitate to start, start and die, other times it will only crank and not run at all. We can make it stay running by hitting the accelerator. The only code we were getting was the cps code, but that is suspected to be because of the excessive cranking and no start times. Previous to this issue getting this serious it would stall randomly, at idle, going down the road at constant speed, slowing down, or accelerating. We now have code P0231.
Through this we have tried:
IDM
(loaner) ECM
removing Diablo
3 CPS
shaving down CPS
Shimming CPS
IPR
Fuel pump
relay
fuel pump fuse
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2001 jetta 2.0 VW guys a while back I was pulling a code saying that the air temp sensor circuit was low I believe it was P0112 so I replaced the maf with a bwd maf. Said it was for the car. Was fine for a day but now it has a P0102 code and the epc stays on (rough idle) what could be wrong ? Is it because the car hasn't learned the new sensor yet because I've only drove 10km or do I have a faulty sensor. BTW replacing the maf fixed the P0112 code
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CODE P0102 "Mass or Airflow circuit low input" That was the code and upon checking my records prior to storing it for the year. I installed a new IAC,MAF, Fuel Pump and lots of new hoses, PCV, Fuel injection regulator. The Vehicle has only 110K miles. Now here is the clincher, after doing just the fuel pump it ran perfect for at least 25 miles, perfect I say. When I shut if off I got the check engine light, and thus the code which led me to install the other stuff. Now after pondering the matter, seems that it acted in a similar way PRIOR to my doing anything but there was no code previously. Like maybe some strange electrical connection, or something.
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I have a 2000 Buick Century that I cannot get to start. While my wife was driving home it started to sputter (like running out of gas) and did a little back firing. She made it home and I put in some gas (Just to make sure) and the care cranks over but will not start. I have replaced the fuel filter, checked the spark plugs and replaced the CAM Sensor. The car still will not start.
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My wife has a 2000 Buick Century with about 150,000 miles on it. It has been relatively trouble free. Recently, the "low coolant" light began to come on.She took the car into a garage where she was told there was oil in the coolant and the sensor had been compromised. The cooling system was flushed and cleaned and a new sensor installed. The "low coolant" light continued to come on. She took the car back in. She was told the wrong sensor had been installed. When she went back for the car the second time, she was told the oil in the coolant was preventing the new sensor from working and there was nothing more the garage could do. I went in and asked questions, primarily how serious was the condition, and couldn't get a straight answer.
We are due to drive to Florida in November. My wife would like to take it to a garage there. Is it save to drive it as is? What are the implications of oil mixing with coolant? What is causing it to happen?
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My 03 Buick century is overheating. I changed the thermostat and the water pump. And still overheats as soon As I start driving. I am also getting when it is overheating some misfiring in cylindar 1. I am going to reflush and bleed the coolant even though it seems to be full . i dont think it is disappearing. Is it Possible i have a blown headgasket or intake manifold leak?
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I am having a very tricky problem with my Buick.
For approximately the last 4 months, it has been (at least according to the heat gauge on the dash) running pretty hot. Not overheating, but getting close. And it doesn't take long for it to get there. This all seems to have begun right around the time that my father and I flushed the coolant system.
Since then, I have replaced some parts, and learned a few things in the process.
I learned that there are bleeder screws which can be opened to let air bubbles out. And I have heard that the 3.1L is especially susceptible to them.
New parts which I have installed:
- thermostat
- coolant temperature sensor
- radiator cap
- upper radiator hose
- lower radiator hose
I have checked the water pump and it seems to be perfectly fine. No leaks. No signs of bad bearings. And it circulates coolant just fine. I have not been witness to either cooling fan, primary or auxiliary, switching on in a while.
The exact symptoms are these:
The heat gauge does not take long to get to mid-way point, but will sit at that point for a bit if the vehicle remains stationary. Once the vehicle is in significant motion, the heat gauge will climb fairly quickly, especially with moderately high RPMs. It WON'T touch the red though, but will get very very close to it. The car runs fine. It does seem to be a bit underpowered, but I am comparing it to my fiance's 1996 Olds Cutlass Ciera, which I believe has a different transmission. My Buick does not seem to have lost power since this problem arose. The cooling fans no longer kick on. The oil appears fine. The coolant as well. With the radiator cap off, coolant does not bubble out or shoot out.
I made sure after changing upper and lower hoses to fill the radiator, let the car run long enough for the thermostat to open, and then slowly poured more coolant into the radiator until it was full again. And the reservoir is at proper level and the the reservoir hose s not clogged.
I am not SURE, but I don't believe the radiator is clogged. I believe that covers it, at least as well as I can.
BTW, I do not know where the fan relays are, otherwise I would test the fans to see if they still work.
What the heck is up with my Buick? Also, it has 97,xxx miles on it, and the transmission fluid is at proper level and looks normal.
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