Buick - Century :: 1996 - Brake System Won't Working?
Jul 25, 2012
I have a 1996 Buick Century that I started having problems with tonight.
As I was driving, I pressed the brake pedal down and it felt like I lost most if not all of the pressure in the brake system and it was a bit difficult to come to a complete stop for the rest of the trip.
I admit that the system hasn't been maintained in quite some time, but I recently filled up the brake fluid reservoir (2-3 weeks ago) after the brake dashboard light came on and the brakes worked just fine after this.
What is wrong with my car, and how do I fix it as cheaply as possible (or is it a cheap fix?)?
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Driving this 1996 Buick Century limited,4 cylinder car normally, the car will just stop running without any warning, nor rhyme nor reason. Most of the time this has occured, a tow truck has been called, but prior to towing, the car started normally and ran without problems for quite a while. The car has been in the chevrolet garage multiple times, at least over nine, for this problem, but will never show up for the mechanic. There is no specific driving pattern to cause this to occur: it dies in normal driving on the street, starting from a stop, in parking lots,
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Added the cruise control brain, the actuator, and the column switch, all parts from the salvage yard, but I haven't been able to get it to work, so far.
Cruise indicator light does not illuminate on the dash when following the GM shop manual "Additional System Check" on page 8A-34-3. Everything meters out, following the troubleshooting guide, so it seems to be hooked up OK. Had a local shop check it - they said the voltage is present at the cruise control module, but they couldn't go any further.
Am I missing a part? A fuse? Do I need to somehow tell the PCM there is now cruise on this vehicle?
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1996 Buick Century has a humming noise while driving at normal speeds and curving or turning slightly to the left only. It will not do this while turning left from a stop or slow turn, but only at moderate or hi-way speeds. You can make the sound while changing lanes, passing or curving to the left. This is only noticeable on actions involving left turn or merging motions.
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I have a 96 Buick century that the headlights will dim during acceleration and stay dimmed till I let off the throttle. Or they will essentially blink bright and dim at highway speeds. The weird thing is, at idle, the lights are fine!
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I have a 1996 Buick Century Custom 3.1L V6 with about 93k miles. As background, I've done quite a bit of work to the car in the last month and a half - replaced the engine with a rebuilt, replaced the catalytic converter (that was damaged when the old engine misfired badly), replaced my ignition control module and two coils, and replaced my fuel injectors as a couple weren't firing well. In addition, I replaced my EGR valve to resolve a P1406 (EGR Valve Pintle Position Sensor) code that came up last month (the original EGR valve looked to have quite a bit of carbon buildup, and was likely original to the car from 1996).
That replacement was done about 9/25, and my check engine light came on again this week. Now it's showing a P1406 (EGR Valve Pintle Position Sensor) code, and occasionally (maybe every 2-3 starts) will also have a P0300 random intermittent misfire and P1406 code shown as pending. In terms of running/performance, if I leave the car in park and give it gas once I get the pedal to about 1/2 down, around about 1800 RPM, it sounds almost like it's coughing, and that's also the case if I leave the car running and go listen/feel at the tailpipe, the exhaust seems to pulse rather than being just a steady stream. Performance wise on the road I haven't noticed any major problems - the car seems to run alright, I haven't noticed any serious misfires or performance problems, seems to have good acceleration, etc.
The one thing I will mention is when the catalytic converter was replaced the shop mentioned that my O2 sensors may need to be replaced as well down the road, as it's possible that they were damaged when the old catalytic converter was. When I checked the live data on my scan tool I do see what seem to be good values from both O2 sensors.
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There’s a problem with my climate-control system. When I turn the fan on, there is no air blowing through the outlets on the instrument-panel. (There is air blowing thru the 2 vents immediately above the floor, and some air blowing at the base of the windshield). This problem exists regardless of what speed I turn the fan on, and regardless of which climate-control setting I choose (or whether I turn on the A/C).
This problem WAS occurring on an intermittent basis, and seemed to develop in RESPONSE TO my turning the knob to “defrost.” Now, however, the problem seems to be permanent. I wonder whether the basic problem is with the round knob that controls the various climate-control settings, as this knob seems somewhat hard to turn.
I have a 2004 Buick Century sedan, with automatic transmission (4speed) w/overdrive, V-6 engine 3.1 L.
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Have 2005 Buick Century. There is a brake fluid leak somewhere between the brake fluid reservoir and the bottom of the car. Seeking a leak-stopping fluid such as the fluid used to stop a leak in a radiator.
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I start the car and everything looks good. I drive 10 feet and the ABS and Brake light come on at the same time. I replaced the "ABS CONTROL MODULE UNIT COMPUTER" that was under the dash by the steering column but that didn't work. Brakes feel firm and strong. Breaks well. What next?
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I recently put in a new compressor and accumulator. I didn't change the orifice tube since it is almost impossible to get to. I added freon and oil with dye and it would work fine sporadically sometimes it wouldn't get cold at all other times it would be freezing. This lasted about a week. I noticed that when it was hot the clutch was engaging fully but I felt the pipe near the firewall and it wasn't cold as if the compressor wasn't compressing and then it would start compressing and it would get cold. The compressor sounds different when it was making the car cold. This led me to rule out a problem in the air control doors. Now there seems to be a leak which is bad since it runs out almost immediately. The problem is finding it since there isn't any oil residue or freon dye where I can see.
(Looking for some shortcuts where I don't have to remove the vacuum brake, brake booster to change the orifice tube?)
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I drive a 2001 Buick Century. Sometime last month (or maybe the month before), my digital odometer was on the fritz. There's a little sub-partition to my dash that houses my digital odometer as well as the indication as to what gear i'm in (PRND32). So it started fading a little, then on some days it wouldn't light up at all. I know the odometer is still working, because on the days when it would light up, it didn't pick up where it left off, rather it had been working the whole time I couldn't see it. And this started going in and out more and more frequently until now it hasn't lit up in about a month.
So, i take my car into my mechanic for an oil change (just had to guess at how close i was to 3,000 miles) and I ask him about it. He tells me that it'd cost so much in time and parts that I might as well not even fix it.
So now what? I'm fine just driving around without it. I know what gear I'm in without my car having to tell me, and I guess I can just estimate when to get my oil changed, although it's rather inconvenient. But what do I do when I want to sell it or trade it in? The longer I go without knowing my mileage, the farther afield an estimate will be.
You know, what I was thinking is that I really just need someone to run a red light and total my car. Then insurance would cover me and the odometer would be low on my list of worries. I just hope the airbags still work...
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I have a 2001 Buick Century which is more or less reliable. Last year the fan stopped working on the first (low) setting, but continued to work on levels 2-5. Air came out of all of the vents, using the fan, A/C, or heat with no problems. A few days ago, level 2 stopped. The next day levels 3 and 4 stopped. The fan still works on the highest setting, but it's just starting to be summer in Minnesota and I'm worried that level 5 will stop on the hottest day of the year. Is this a simple fuse problem I can fix myself? Complicated repairs are probably beyond me, but I can do basic repairs.
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I have a 2000 Buick Century. The wiper controls are all goofy. The delay seldom ever works, just goes into slow steady speed most of the time. And they go through several more cycles when wipers are shut off. No doubt some entire multifunction module will have to be replaced.
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In Oct. my wife took the car 40 miles from home, lost the brakes, and limped into a gas station. The guy there gave her a bottle of brake fluid and some stop leak. He suggested equal amounts of both and limp back home. She drove back and went to the machanic in town. He wanted $365 to replace all of the brake lines. He said there may be brake pressure problems and he will address them later. Recently I loaned my son the car so that he could deliver newspapers.
After 2 weeks we needed new front brakes. I had brake pressure problems. If the brake pedal did not feel spongy then the brakes felt inconsistent-sometimes high and sometimes down to the floor. There was a sticky passenger front caliper that was replaced. The brakes were bleed and are still spongy and inconsistent. I noticed that the reservoir cap is not good. Could the cap be the cause of the sponginess? There are no leaks around the master cylinder and there are no leaks. Should I replace the master cylinder? 1996 Buick LeSabre 3.8L....
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1996 Grand Caravan with ABS, 3.3L V6, 152k.
Am I correct that Dot 4 brake fluid is equivalent to Dot 3 - with the added advantage of higher boiling point? Is there any downside to using Dot 4, other than a small additional cost? Seems like the cost difference is irrelevant compared to the safety margin to reduce the chance of boiling the brake fluid on a long downhill in hot weather, or - as in a recent puzzler - heating from the exhaust system. Or is Dot 3 really just fine for most cars?
Either way, I'm going to flush the system with new fluid (and replace old parts as needed), it's definitely due. Neither my owners manual, nor the factory service manual, gives a capacity for the entire system. Ditto the Napa store. I'm guessing it's in the range of two quarts. I don't want to buy a full gallon only to let it sit in the garage, but if I need three quarts, I may as well buy the gallon. Where to find the capacity, or have a ballpark approximation for what the system will need?
Also, is there any benefit to flushing the system BEFORE replacing wheel cylinders to keep old fluid out of new parts? That makes sense to me, even if it uses extra fluid. So:
1: Dot 3 vs Dot 4
2: capacity
3: which comes first: flush or new parts
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I have a 2000 Buick Century that I cannot get to start. While my wife was driving home it started to sputter (like running out of gas) and did a little back firing. She made it home and I put in some gas (Just to make sure) and the care cranks over but will not start. I have replaced the fuel filter, checked the spark plugs and replaced the CAM Sensor. The car still will not start.
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My wife has a 2000 Buick Century with about 150,000 miles on it. It has been relatively trouble free. Recently, the "low coolant" light began to come on.She took the car into a garage where she was told there was oil in the coolant and the sensor had been compromised. The cooling system was flushed and cleaned and a new sensor installed. The "low coolant" light continued to come on. She took the car back in. She was told the wrong sensor had been installed. When she went back for the car the second time, she was told the oil in the coolant was preventing the new sensor from working and there was nothing more the garage could do. I went in and asked questions, primarily how serious was the condition, and couldn't get a straight answer.
We are due to drive to Florida in November. My wife would like to take it to a garage there. Is it save to drive it as is? What are the implications of oil mixing with coolant? What is causing it to happen?
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So my brake lights aren't working on my 1997 Buick Park Avenue, not even my middle one. All my bulbs, fuses, relays are good. My tail lights and hazards work fine. The circuit has continuity when the pedal is pressed and power going into the brake switch when the pedal is not pressed, but when pressed it has no power going in or out it just cuts off. I figured it was probably a ground then but I checked and all of the grounds are good.
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My 03 Buick century is overheating. I changed the thermostat and the water pump. And still overheats as soon As I start driving. I am also getting when it is overheating some misfiring in cylindar 1. I am going to reflush and bleed the coolant even though it seems to be full . i dont think it is disappearing. Is it Possible i have a blown headgasket or intake manifold leak?
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I am having a very tricky problem with my Buick.
For approximately the last 4 months, it has been (at least according to the heat gauge on the dash) running pretty hot. Not overheating, but getting close. And it doesn't take long for it to get there. This all seems to have begun right around the time that my father and I flushed the coolant system.
Since then, I have replaced some parts, and learned a few things in the process.
I learned that there are bleeder screws which can be opened to let air bubbles out. And I have heard that the 3.1L is especially susceptible to them.
New parts which I have installed:
- thermostat
- coolant temperature sensor
- radiator cap
- upper radiator hose
- lower radiator hose
I have checked the water pump and it seems to be perfectly fine. No leaks. No signs of bad bearings. And it circulates coolant just fine. I have not been witness to either cooling fan, primary or auxiliary, switching on in a while.
The exact symptoms are these:
The heat gauge does not take long to get to mid-way point, but will sit at that point for a bit if the vehicle remains stationary. Once the vehicle is in significant motion, the heat gauge will climb fairly quickly, especially with moderately high RPMs. It WON'T touch the red though, but will get very very close to it. The car runs fine. It does seem to be a bit underpowered, but I am comparing it to my fiance's 1996 Olds Cutlass Ciera, which I believe has a different transmission. My Buick does not seem to have lost power since this problem arose. The cooling fans no longer kick on. The oil appears fine. The coolant as well. With the radiator cap off, coolant does not bubble out or shoot out.
I made sure after changing upper and lower hoses to fill the radiator, let the car run long enough for the thermostat to open, and then slowly poured more coolant into the radiator until it was full again. And the reservoir is at proper level and the the reservoir hose s not clogged.
I am not SURE, but I don't believe the radiator is clogged. I believe that covers it, at least as well as I can.
BTW, I do not know where the fan relays are, otherwise I would test the fans to see if they still work.
What the heck is up with my Buick? Also, it has 97,xxx miles on it, and the transmission fluid is at proper level and looks normal.
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2002 Buick century will sometimes not start. Seems to correlate with warmer weather and happens after long drives. I try to restart within 10 minutes of turning off and it will start and then in a few seconds the car shakes and the engine dies. I can restart multiple times, but it will always die in a couple of seconds. If I wait an hour and retry, no problem. Once someone banged on the gas tank and that solved it. Mechanic cannot diagnose problem unless it dies while he is there. Should I replace the fuel pump or could it be something else?
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