Buick :: 2000 / 3.8 Engine Just Quits Multiple Times While Driving
Aug 7, 2011
2000 Buick 3.8. stop for gas, red light, etc. engine quits. 1st repair shop said fuel pump bad. Replace filter pressure okay. car starts later, quits multiple times. 2nd repair shop, car quits while there. Mechanic comes out with tester and says "no spark", ignition module bad, also spark plug harness bad. Replace just wires, and car runs for 9 months, no trouble. Now car quits while driving, no sputtering, just quits! Wait awhile, car starts, but 30 miles later, quits. Seems that hot weather has something to do with it, although it quit on a cold rainy fall day and had a hard time starting again. It did start and ran for 300 miles before acting up.
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Car:2000 Buick Regal54,000 miles3.8 V6, Vin K
Problem:The engine quits running. Idle, part throttle, moving, stopped, open or closed loop doesn't matter. Sometimes it will re-fire immediately, other times it may take a dozen or more attempts.
There is no MIL, and my TECH 2 is finding no issues.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna that has had a check engine light for a while. The light would come at times, and go away at others, with prolonged intervals (days, weeks, months) with or without the light.
Suddenly it started losing power, especially on hills (even a small hill). The codes I read are (I include code interpretations from internet search):
P0300: Random or multiple misfire.
P0301: Cylinder 1 misfire.
P0304: Cylinder 4 misfire.
P1130: Air fuel sensor
P1150: I have not found a problem definition for this code.
Might these codes be indicative of a particular problem, or is each problem more likely a problem with its own cause?
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My 87 lesabre has run great for many years, but lately, it has been quitting on me. It happens randomly, usually while driving slower or idling. It just suddenly quits almost as if it's out of gas. It usually starts right back up, sometimes have to wait 20-30 seconds. It runs fine, not sluggish or anything, up until it quits. Had a couple mechanics look at it, when I told one about it he thought for sure it was going to be the fuel injectors but they all checked out fine.
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2003 F150 Super Crew 5.4
When I turn off the ignition, the drivers door lock unlocks or pushes the arm through the door for up to 30-60 seconds over and over again. I would say like 10 times and it is annoying as hell.
Is the only part in the door that controls this the actuator or is there something else that can be doing this?
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I have a 2011 I4 camry. I recently ran out of gas and decided to keep trying to see maybe if the car would turn on. After all that i gave up cranking the car on and decided to push to a gas station. After putting in gas (93 octane) I realized i have my check engine light on and another light which depicts a car with 2 swiggly lines.What that light means but its to the right of of lcd display which shows your mileage. I am taking the car tomorrow to the dealership but I was wondering is there any way i can check the codes without an obd scanner (the thing that checks for codes). Do you think I ruined my engine after trying to start the car multiple times without gas?
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So I have a 2000 Buick, and it generally starts. However, twice now at random times the car hasn't started. It doesn't turn over, but makes a buzzing sound. The strange thing is, that usually after leaving it alone for a few hours, it will start as though there are no problems. I assume it's some kind of electrical issue, but I would love some input on the possible problems with my car.
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I own an 87 Buick Lesabre Limited Coupe [URL] ..... I have driven it for the past 6 years with no major problems, but just now it has begun to have a stalling problem. The engine just shuts off at random times. Doesn't matter if you're at a red light or driving in traffic. She will stall, then after 5 minutes will start up again, and stall again. So, I took to it to my mechanic & he changed the ignition module & mass air sensor. I picked it up, and the 'Service Engine Soon' light went on, and then she stalled a few minutes later.
So, I drove her back to the shop (stalling several times on the way), and my mechanic changed the crank position sensor, and she still died. He read the trouble code 42, so he changed the ignition module again. I picked her up yesterday, and she made it home without stalling, but the 'Service Engine Soon' light still goes on after 5 minutes of idling, which leads me to believe that the problem lies somewhere else. Could it be an electrical problem (wiring, fuses, computer) that is causing the 'service engine soon' light to go on & the car to shut off? What else could it be?
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Driving this 1996 Buick Century limited,4 cylinder car normally, the car will just stop running without any warning, nor rhyme nor reason. Most of the time this has occured, a tow truck has been called, but prior to towing, the car started normally and ran without problems for quite a while. The car has been in the chevrolet garage multiple times, at least over nine, for this problem, but will never show up for the mechanic. There is no specific driving pattern to cause this to occur: it dies in normal driving on the street, starting from a stop, in parking lots,
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I have a 2000 accent 1.5L I was having issues with the maf. I was running a cold air intake but started having issues. I removed the intake and replaced with stock config. I cleaned the maf and re-installed. The car will run fine, build rpm and return to idle with no problems. The second I put it in gear and try to move the engine will misfire and rattle itself until it quits. I have been driving around for approx a week with the maf disconnected seeing as it seems to run alright, just lacks a bit of power it seems.
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I have a 1995 buick roadmaster with 308,000 miles. The car quits intermittently but starts up immediately thereafter. Seems like an electrical issue but it doesn't act like the distributor is malfunctioning or fuel stoppage since it doesn't shudder prior to quitting. I have had the car since new, we love it and would like to keep it.
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Three times recently my 2008 Touring Edition Prius has experienced a shutdown of the engine while driving. Each time I was able to coast and/or use battery power to get to a safe location. The “Triangle-of-Death” and the Check Engine Light was illuminated on the dashboard. Since my car is equipped with a scangauge, I was able to see the codes and clear them on the spot. After restarting the car, it showed no adverse reaction to shutting down and all was seemingly well until the next event. The codes listed below all seem to be communication lapses.
My question is; where do I start in my pursuit to diagnose and repair?
7/15/14 - 98,889 miles U0293 and U0100
7/23/14 - 99,414 miles U0293 and U0100
8/21/14 - 101,065 miles U0100 and U0000
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So I've had this code come up and go off multiple times its P0A93 which has to do with the inverter Coolant pump, and all the posts I've read about it here, none of them had an intermittent problem with it. Like it will come on and then I let it sit overnight adn it will go off. When I take the cap off the reservoir there is turbulence in the coolant and I've bled it many times. It came on and shut off 2 times on my drive to New York 3 weeks ago but then didn't come on again until today, almost 2500 miles later. And today when the light came on it listed these 4 codes.
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I own a 2000 Buick Regal, and have recently come across a gasoline smell while driving. While taking a longer drive, I realized that it would heavily smell like gasoline when I would go from park or from a stop. It really makes me nervous to drive my car not knowing what could be causing this problem. What is going on?
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For some time I've thought my starter is going bad because I'll have to hit the ignition multiple times for it to actually start...I've even had to resort to push-starting it a couple of times. How can I tell if this is a bad starter or something else like the main relay?
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Don't know about this code? Can't find any info on it anywhere? Saw it come up multiple times with my own eyes. 2007 Touring
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I have the keyless wireless option and one of my key fobs stopped working so I put a new battery in. So now instead of blinking once in the upper right-hand corner when I push the button and working properly instead the little red button in the corner links three times and nothing else happens . I even switched batteries from the one that still works to the one that does not work in case I got a bad new battery but no changes on either key.
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I am fixing up a Mrk IV Golf. One of problems I am having is that the brakes are not firm despite being bleed multiple times. The brakes work but the pedal does not inspire confidence, and I know there is braking performance being left on the table. The brakes are to large and the car is to small to brake as slow as it does. Are Golfs a cross bleed system? I have be bleeding them like I would on an old American car, which is what I normally work on.
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I have a problem in the form of a 2000 Buick LeSabre Custom with the GM 3800 series II engine. After 245k miles, it has begun to show it's age in some very unaffectionate ways. It has been stalling, sputtering, hesitating, and unwilling to start at seemingly random intervals. And, such is my luck, there has been no 'check engine' light on at any point during this saga. Here's the chronology of events spanning 6 months:
The first symptom I experienced was occasional sputtering, mainly while going uphill. This began to occur shortly after the spark plugs were replaced during regular maintenance. So I replaced the spark plugs again, and also the wires, fuel filter, and fuel pressure regulator. Plus I gave the MAF a good cleaning.
But the problem persisted, and grew to include intermittent stalling when I would come to a stop. Undaunted, I replaced the ignition coils, and swapped in a used ICM.
The car, obviously displeased with my choice words toward it, began to not start every now and then. It would just crank to no avail. So I would try again after an hour or two and it would immediately start as if nothing was wrong. Fearing that I or my wife could be left stranded I replaced the fuel pump. It continues to stall every once in a while and it still sometimes sputters at low rpms. A lot of times it just wont idle at a constant speed.
So then I replaced the crank sensor and I cleaned the camshaft sensor too. Guess what? It's still intermittently sputtering/hesitating when I accelerate from a stop. And I have noticed that it will also sputter while idling in park as well. It's like it's misfiring, but with no engine codes. I'm not happy.
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I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey that doesn't start sometimes - mostly when it's really cold but not exclusively. It doesn't seem to matter if the gas tank is full or empty. It turns over fine and will catch and the die multiple times. There is sometimes a large "clunk" while it is turning over and all the lights will go off and then it will start turning over again. It can take a minute to 15 minutes to start when it isn't starting but about half the time, it start right up. This is only in the morning, once it's going for the day, it works. 126,000 miles, timing belt changed a couple of years ago.
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Had a hot no start going, found dummy plug issue, replaced dummy plugs. While in there I cleaned the injectors (passenger side only) and put back together. Cranked multiple times, had to recharge batteries a few times as it is in the 10 - 20 degree temp range. No joy on re-start following the work.
Numbers I'm getting are:
KOEO With ICP connected:
ICP - 0
ICV - .07
IPR - 14.8
While cranking
ICP - eventually builds to 400+-
ICV - eventually increases to .13
IPR - maxed at 84.7
ICV too low so...
After disconnecting ICP
KOEO
ICP - 0
ICV - 0 (disconnected)
IPR - 14.8
While cranking
ICP - up to 1693
IPR - to 65.5
Still no start.
Ran through FICM check and the numbers are fine - 48 key on, 47 key during buzz, 47-48 while cranking.
I do get oil pressure registering on the dash gauge.
Fuel is in the filter housing
Oil filter housing refills with oil as expected when cranking
Only code is the P2285 once the ICP is disconnected
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