Brakes - Nissan :: Bearing Over Tightened Causing Scoring From Friction
Jan 6, 2015
I just had brakes redone at Nissan on a 2003 Pathfinder. Nissan said that when the last brake job was done (by Firestone), the bearings were overtightened causing "scoring" from friction. Nissan says there is a chance that this may have weakened the metal from repeated heating and cooling over about 40,000 miles.
Nissan said that it's unlikely, but possible, that a break can cause the wheel to fall off while I'm driving. I took it to Firestone who looked at it (see photos attached) and said it's just normal wear for a car with 140,000 miles... nothing to worry about. I'm a bit freaked out about notion that a wheel can fall off while I'm driving.
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2011 Ford Fusion Hybrid .. Since purchasing my vehicle in January 2011, I have had continuing problems with squealing brakes and my rotors scoring. They have been replaced along with the linings, pads, etc and less than three months later they are back in the same condition. I drive 140 highway miles roundtrip daily - at least half of that in stop-n-go commute traffic. I never experienced this over the 11 years I owned my 1999 Ford Explorer under the same driving conditions. Have this issue with the hybrid?
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I am a brand new Prius v 2 owner and am confused when it comes to braking. I read somewhere that when you see the regenitive charging are full in white 3 white bars that it is now using the friction brakes. Is that true? How do you know when it is using regen vs. friction brakes?
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Had my front bearings replaced on 2005 prius about 1 month ago as the right side bearing was making all the usual noises of a bad bearing...After about 3 weeks the right side again started to make a low humming noise but not quite the same as the original problem bearing, this time there was no change in noise on wide sweeping turns like there was with the original problem...Took it back to the mechanic and had him ride with me and he immediately diagnosed that the bearing had failed again, even though the noise was different....He replaced the bearing on Friday, I drove it home with no apparent noises, put maybe 100 miles on it Saturday and noticed again a low hum starting on the right side...Now here on Sunday it is a very loud hum/growl with some shimmery coming from that side...I'm guessing it's not a bearing problem.
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I had a ripped drivers side CV boot and had my indy replace the axle with a new Raxle. ~200 miles after the replacement the wheel bearing on that side went south. I shugged it off and had it replaced. Well, after 200 miles on the new bearing, it has also failed (100 miles from home). I gotta believe the 2 bearing fails are related to the new axle, but I don't understand how!
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Well my car is back at the dealer, again. Last week they replaced the brain for the ABS and everything on the right rear. Well driving up to and back from Redding, Ca.the brakes started dragging again on the right rear.
This time the rotor had a orage tint to it from the heat when I looked at it. The gas mileage sucks and now this. If I have to take it back for a 3rd time, I am getting rid of it.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Venza V6 AWD with 60,000 miles. A few months ago I had the front rotors and pads replaced by Sullivan Tire and Auto in Massachusetts. Since that time, the brakes have started causing a grinding or vibration. It ONLY occurs at very low speeds, especially in stop-and-go traffic on the highway and only after the car has warmed up with perhaps 20-30 minutes of driving with braking. You can feel it in the steering wheel and even in the seats. Sullivan has been AWESOME in trying to solve it, already replacing the rotors and pads once and having taken them apart two other times. They seem stumped and I can't find anything related on the internet. Several techs have taken it for a ride both with and without me and every one of them confirms the same strange grind/vibration/rub and under only the conditions noted above.
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I just had front and back brakes replaced and there is noise coming from front (I think it's the front)? Any way my brother says its the wheel bearings and that my mechanic should have "caught" that they were bad. I've gone to mechanic for almost 10 years and trust him. Never had wheel bearing problems before so not sure what to think. And if it is wheel bearing can u ballpark cost to fix in Illinois ?
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I have a 99 Sentra 217500 miles 1.6 auto: I changed the trans fluid, and now have a bearing noise on the driver's side. The car shifted ok, but would stay locked up coming from drive to a stop.The fluid had been changed a couple times, before I got the car @195000, but was now very greyish looking, not burnt or black. I drained and then used the car to pump 8 quarts total (keeping it filled) The car runs and shifts fine, but now I have a 'tire like noise' driver's side. I jacked up each front wheel and ran the car in drive. the noise only came from the drivers side. I think it is a coincidence and am having the car checked on mon.
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Our 2010 Prius just had the brake booster recall done and I also installed new pads and rotors. The car now has issues with the front brakes dragging excessively causing lack of power and poor fuel economy. There are no codes and everything else checks out okay, the brakes function fine. Is there anything on these cars that would cause brake drag after a new brake install? I just want to ensure there isn't something I can do before I bring it to the Toyota dealer.
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I think my steering column bearing is bad up at the top end. I got the steering wheel off and the coil spring wire thing without too much drama, but my Haynes manual stops there, it doesn't tell how to go any deeper into column. How to proceed? Almost forgot, this is a '97 F150....
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I've noticed when I'm towing, on long down hill grades if I touch the brakes I get what feels like a rotor causing the steering wheel to shake. At first it was only mild, but today on a long 6% grade it got really bad. Never does it on a level road, I've tried to duplicate it, only on a long down hill grade, and I'm not getting a pulse in the brake pedal at all, only the shake in the steering wheel. It's probably time to replace the pads anyhow, and I'll check the rotors. What things to look at?? 2006 F350, 6.0 dually 4x4.....
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Prius III -- I do all in-town driving with display in HSI mode. When braking, I have naively assumed that the length of the CHG bar corresponds with regen braking capacity -- fill the bar and you're starting to add friction brake. So when stopping distances permit, I try to brake gradually enough to keep a bit of space past the end of the CHG bar -- means I'm playing with brake pressure the whole length of a typical freeway exit ramp.
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On my 2000 E-150, what is the thread for the wheel spindle, the one that holds the wheel bearings in place?
I had the outer wheel bearing completely shred yesterday, and I don't know if the threads were hurt yet as when I got home and the tow truck dropped it there, I didn't want to tear it apart. So I'm at work and would like to take a die home to chase the threads just in case.
Autozone's website has the spindle nut kit, but it shows:
Thread Size: 3/4-16 & M20-1.0
A machinist here tells me that they are not the same, so how do I know what I have?
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I'm attempting to replace the steering coupling in my 1969 f100 2 wheel drive 240 6 cyl.. I have found that the lower column shaft bearing needs to be replaced also. My problem is that I cannot figure out how to get the shaft coupling flange off the shaft in order to remove the bearing. Also if I do get it off how do I remove the old bearing?
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My CEL comes on a lot because my gas cap won't stay tightened. I bought this one at Amazon, but it was wrong: [URL]..... It had 2 large tabs, where my cap has a "screw thread". Is there another place I can get an OEM quality cap.
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The check engine lamp on my '04 4cyl came on Saturday. I checked the code. It's P0441, which is supposed to be 'Evaporative emission control system incorrect purge.' I found a page on the web that said this might have to do with the gas cap. When I checked the cap it had not been tightened.
I've been driving it for 3 days and the check engine lamp is still on. How long should I expect it to take for it to extinguish? It seems unlikely to the point of incredible the gas cap was left loose (which I've never seen before) and another failure in this very system could have happened simultaneously. Particularly since this is the first time the check engine lamp has come on in 9 years and over 100,000 miles
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I bought my SF 2013 Limited just less than 3 weeks ago. The car was fine but now all of sudden started to emit metallic grinding/friction noise when I press the gas pedal.
Dealer tech thought that it is bad drive shaft, but after changing it, it didn't solve the problem. Thought that rotor splash guards and maybe pads were to tight, that still didn't solve it.
To put this in perspective:
The sound comes only when I press the gas pedal and increases with the speed. It sound like cymbals and with speed it sound like a cricket. Noise comes from the bottom of the car and you can only hear it if your windows are down and car is passing sound reflection objects on the side, like other cars, concrete dividers, or parked vehicles.
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Seems that they tightened the bumper and fender too tight that they're currently rubbing and some paint seems to be chipping.
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So i went to do an oil change on my 05 elantra but the oil drain plug is tightened too tight. I tried to unscrew it with my 17mm 6 contact deep socket wrench but no luck. I noticed the edges of the plug starting to get eaten away so i stopped. What do i do now. I was really excited to do my own oil change but i couldnt even get past the 1st step. I dont have access to an inpact wrench but i've been told not to use that anyway with the oil drain plug.
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It's an 88 2.9 and sounds like a little diesel! The fellow I purchased it from said the valves need tightened, I thought perhaps a timing chain, but figured valves would be an easier place to start. Yet, I'm not sure where to begin? Or how tight the valves need to be, are there torque specks?
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