Brakes - Mitsubishi - Outlander :: 2010 - Getting Check Brake Light Thrice?
Sep 22, 2016
On three separate occasions, while driving, my check brake warning light has come on. When I brake, it immediately turns back off. On the second occasion it came back on about a minute later, but again, turned right back off after pressing the brake. There is no rhyme or reason to when this happens--the first time I was going about 25mph, the next two times it happened on the highway when I was going 55. It has happened within a couple of minutes of starting up, or after about 15 minutes. I haven't driven it for further than about 20 miles since it started, so I can't speak to whether it continues to occur on long drives or not. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all.
I haven't experienced any difference in braking--same amount of pressure when I press the pedal, same stopping distances, no vibrations or noises, etc. It was also recently at the shop for an oil change and tire rotation. The car is about 2.5-3 years old and has 20,600 miles on it (I don't drive much!). I checked the brake fluid; it is smack dab in the middle of the min and max lines, and it is clean. It was also just in over Christmas for the big 2 year/30,000 mile check and everything was totally fine.
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2010 Mitsubishi Outlander ES On three separate occasions, while driving, my check brake warning light has come on. When I brake, it immediately turns back off. On the second occasion it came back on about a minute later, but again, turned right back off after pressing the brake. There is no rhyme or reason to when this happens--the first time I was going about 25mph, the next two times it happened on the highway when I was going 55. It has happened within a couple of minutes of starting up, or after about 15 minutes. I haven't driven it for further than about 20 miles since it started, so I can't speak to whether it continues to occur on long drives or not. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all.
I haven't experienced any difference in braking--same amount of pressure when I press the pedal, same stopping distances, no vibrations or noises, etc. It was also recently at the shop for an oil change and tire rotation. The car is about 2.5-3 years old and has 20,600 miles on it (I don't drive much!). I checked the brake fluid; it is smack dab in the middle of the min and max lines, and it is clean. It was also just in over Christmas for the big 2 year/30,000 mile check and everything was totally fine. What this could be?
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Have a metallic/rattling sound under my car while idling. Don't hear it while driving. 2010 Mitsubishi Outlander
Here is link to sound file [URL] ....
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Past 6 months I have a vibration/shimmy in '08 Outlander when accelerating in first gear (automatic). I can feel in my foot on accelerator and when passenger seat is empty the seat belt vibrates against door panel. It is not in steering wheel or tires. No hesitation or skipping in engine, just vibration that goes away once car gets into 2-3 gear. Dealer said transmission tested fine. Naturally.
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One thing you hate to hear when you go to a mechanic's is "that's a common problem" and "there's no permanent fix for it." Since we moved to a shady street, my car is leaking dirty water on the inside passenger side from under the dash, especially when I make a left turn. It really can start to smell bad and I now keep a bucket under the dash and have to leave the window cracked despite the daily rain in Tampa. Twice I have had the lines blown out, but I was told the problem would come back and to really clean it out and that the problem would come back anyway after that. According to my mechanic, the problem stems from the leaves getting inside the engine and clogging up some line. And to everyone else, don't buy a Mitsubishi Outlander.
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I have a 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander. About two months ago, I replaced (myself) the radiator fan because it had stopped working. I bought the new fan on the internet and it was fairly easy to install. It was a little louder than the original fan, but it worked great. Last week it suddenly became louder and stays on for a minute after I turn the car off. Is the fan defective? Should I return it? Should I ask my mechanic to test it? Or just ignore it?
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We have had a problem with our check engine light on our 2003 Mitsubishi Galant for a couple years. The light used to go on and off. Our mechanic ran the issue, checked it out, and said that it was not actually a problem with the engine but rather with the indicator light. The light was going off when there was not actually an issue. He told us it would cost about $500 to fix the problem. At the time, we decided it was not worth the money. Two months ago, we brought the car in for an oil change and the light was on. He ran the problem again, and again told us it was not a problem with the engine but with the light.
Unfortunately, it's time to get our car inspected, and the light is still on and has not gone off in two months. Since we did not want to risk getting a fine, we brought it in for the inspection, as as expected, the car failed. The inspector, a different mechanic (our regular mechanic does not do state inspections), said that our mechanic was probably wrong, that the lights do not just break and go off unexpectedly, and there is probably something wrong with the car instead.
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I have a 1997 Mitsubishi Galant with 134400 miles. Filled up the gas tank, driving home and the check engine light is on. Checked the fluids and found out that the engine oil is empty. Due for an oil change soon. Last mechanic used an expensive oil. Do expensive oils burn quickly? Mechanic said that cheaper oil change uses cheap oil...
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I loaned my car to a friend for 2 days. While driving, she allowed it to run out of gas. The check engine light came on as soon as gas was put into the tank and has never gone off. I now need to get inspected, but afraid it will not pass. Someone said to put "Garanteed To Pass" in the gas tank. I have never had any problems with this car. I am the original owner, and I keep the oil changed and the filter clean. The car runs perfectly with 120K miles! What should I do?
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My car's an 04 Mitsubishi Lancer ES, 4-cyl, 2.0L. So long story short, my check-engine light has been coming up every now and again for the last couple months with the code P0421, which a shop has confirmed I need a new manifold catalytic converter for (they ruled out any problems with O2 sensors).
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My 2010 Subaru Outback recently surprised the hell out of me by simultaneously turning on the brake warning light, the traction control light, the check engine light and (just for a bonus!) disabled my cruise control while flashing the cruise control light. I pulled over, quickly surmising that all of those systems could not have failed at 70 MPH without instantaneous death to either me or the vehicle. Both apparently still being alive, I tried turning the car on an off to reset the lights. No go. Subaru was not going to miss this chance to get me to the dealership! (who I had avoided to this point!) As I was far away from home and the car being very healthy, it seemed, I decided to drive on. I proceeded to put a couple of hundred more miles on the car before I got back to town.
My car had 39,000 miles on it, 3,000 miles beyond the warranty end. I learned that I have an error code of P0171, "Fuel Trim Malfunction (Air/Fuel too lean)". So I guess I'm wondering about a few things...why would this sensor set off every light on my dashboard and disable my cruise control? Seems a bit overblown for running a bit lean. My gut tells me Subaru has a sensor/software problem they are not owning up to. I'm a big fan of conspiracy theories and this really smells like one...
Second, jeez, I'm only 3K miles over warranty, don't you think they'd cut me some slack. I mean I love my Subaru, or did anyway, until this happened. Now it's just another POS car that breaks for no apparent reason...
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I took my 2010 F-150 for brake job and ended up with brake fluid in intake!! How that happened?
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Started having problems with my Chevy Malibu (1999, with 95,000 miles on it) while driving two times this week. Both times an alert warning flashed on my dashboard. The first time, flashed the brake check and ABS warning on the left side of the dashboard, and the second time the check oil and check battery warning on the right side. In both cases, after the warnings flashed, the car was still running, but stepping on the gas pedal resulted in no acceleration, but brakes still worked. The steering wheel also locks-up to the point where I can't turn any more. Both times, I stopped and shut off the engine, waited about 30 seconds and restarted, after which everything is fine and normal. The brake pads were changed recently, but not the rotors which may not be in very good shape.
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Driving in snow, braking in this car routinely handles poorly and brakes make a loud grinding sound. It sounds like the front brakes. I just had a brake job from a trusted dealer. I read the thread here on the Honda Accord that reported the same sort of brake problem. The issue is the brakes, NOT tires as that thread suggests. Braking strength is greatly impaired under these conditions. I am very apprehensive about driving in snow, and ready to trade in what is otherwise a fine car.
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My daughter drives a 2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse. About 6 months ago, she noticed that occasionally when driving over a bump in the road her brakes lose pressure. The pedal goes nearly to the floor and the car is harder to stop. After a few days/weeks, the brakes return to normal. I was skeptical at first, but drove the car after one such incident and confirmed the lack of pressure. However, a Mitsubishi dealership couldn't find anything wrong with the brakes while a specialty brake shop wanted to replace the master cylinder.
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2010 F-250 14,000 miles, gas engine with Knapheide utility bed. Tilt wheel has been kept in the up position from day 1.
The problem:
No rear brake lights.
No high mount brake light.
No rear turn signals.
No rear hazard flashing lights.
All trailer lights work.
All other truck lights work.
Things checked: Fuses all OK. Visual inspection of multi-function switch. Looks clean. Brake switch at brake pedal has power on one wire. Jumpered the other wire-no brake lights.
I need to haul my trailer and am nervous when I see a Savannah, GA metro police car.
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So I was told I had a brake light out? Went and bought new bulb and replaced. Turn on headlights and the single filament lights. so when brakes are applied the second filament should light up that give the brighter affect.
Well when brakes applied the bulb goes out completely? Take foot off brake and the single filament comes back on. The other tail light operates as it should. Even used bulb from working tail light with same results.
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Check brake pad light came on. I checked pads there fine so what could be causing the light to be on...
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I've got a 2003 passat 1.8t, I just changed my rear brakes about 5000km's ago, and my front pads have a lot of pad left.. the light just came on...? Is it safe to drive still? Is there something I should look for?
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I have a 1999 VW Passat 1.8T and the ABS light and Brake light come on from time to time but never steady for more than a few days at a time. I'm not sure why but my brakes work fine. The only possible thing is a squeak from the front brakes but they squeaked before the light came on. What this might be or how to fix it?
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92 F250 4x4 with 140,000 mi. Abs light came on, Replaced the sensor on the rear axle, Light is still on. When the light comes on the brakes still work but it takes more pedal to stop. Now the Brake light comes on, It has new pads on the front, and its bleed out good. When you drive it some times it works fine, then out of the blue it lights up.
I have checked the fluid level, parking brake switch, and even swapped the abs black box with another, also bleed the bleeder on the left frame rail. When the lights come on you can pull off the road and turn off the motor and restart the lights stay off for several brake applies, then sometimes they light back up. The light issue is not that bad to me but it drives my wife crazy. I am more concerned about it taking more/harder pedal to stop.
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