Brakes - Mercury - Mountaineer :: 1999 - Loud Grinding Sound / Damaged Rotors?
Mar 20, 2011
We discovered that our 99 mercury Mountaineer had bad rotors. last night I hooked up a trailer and was going to work with a friend move a couch when I heard a loud grinding sound. I turned around and determined it was coming from the wheel. I purchased a new set of pads and started to change the pads. In the process I found a broken sway bar connector. I changed this as well. It still felt bad and there was a sound when I braked.
I took it to pep boys for a free brake inspection. They pointed out that the rotors needed to be replaced. I did not let them do it because I can not afford that right now. The car is a secondary not a daily driver. My wife says we shouldn't drive it at all. I say we can still drive it and expect I will have to replace the brake pads sooner than normal and replace the rotors when we can, later. My wife insists we will do more damage if we drive it as it is. I say what's the difference we need to replace the rotors anyway.
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I have a '06 Mercury Mountaineer, right over 100,000 miles. For the past few months the car has started to make a sound and even produce an "clunk" that I can feel when I am slowing down to come to a stop. It only happens when I slow down to around 3-4mph or slower. The transmission has only around 10,000 miles on it. What could be causing this?
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2002 Mountaineer, suddenly started making a loud clicking noise driver side front. Seldom in reverse. Struts and axle look good, nothing hanging down.
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In February 2014 I purchased a 2011 Honda CRV. I often travel and am gone for about a week. Every time I come back the rear brake are rusted. They have a loud thumping and grinding sound. I immediately took the car back to Honda dealership (2 time) both times they 'shaved' the roaters. I then contacted Honda headquarters to report the issue. They told me to deal with the dealership and take it to a local mechanic for other opinions. Car Talk will be my second opinion. Honda dealership told me that this is just the way it is. This is my third Honda, I have NOT had this problem before.
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I recently got my oil changed & the auto body shop told me that my coolant is leaking and that I needed to fix it ($800) I took my car to private mechanic and he said I was simply missing a cap, replaced it & that the issue would be resolved. After driving it for a few weeks I can tell there is still a problem, I hear a hissing noise, on the passenger side that appears only while accelerating & after I turn the car off (for about 5 seconds). Also, after I turn off the heat I hear a loud gush of air for a few seconds. The car is slower to accelerate these days.
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I took my 2010 Sonata GLS (86K miles) into the shop last Thursday for an alignment and new front brakes since the old ones were on the wear indicators and doing some squealing/squeaking on soft left turns. Got a call from the mechanic who said the rotors were also shot, so I had them replaced as well.
On my normal commute on Monday and Tuesday this week (approx 10 miles, 95% highway), I noticed that when the car was moving at 15mph or less in a straight line both front wheels were making a noticeable high-pitched squeal/squeak, which went away with increased speed and when braking. I figured it might be a break-in issue but when it hadn't improved by yesterday I made an appointment to have the car checked out by the mechanic again today.
Got the car back today and the same sound is still happening, though now it's in the 60mph range and seems to come and go regardless of wheel direction. The mechanic said he took the brakes apart, found no issues but cleaned and lubed everything as a precaution.
I'm starting to wonder if its the bearings that are shot, but the sound hasn't remained constant as I would expect with a bearing issue. All the parts used are under warranty, so the next step I have available here is to have the brakes and rotors replaced.
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I performed brake maintenance today with my brother on my 2010 corolla CE, my front rotors were warped and my pads were used ( and also uneven) and I replaced both front rotors and pads.
The install went smoothly, my brother changed a couple of brakes sets and knew what he was doing and showed me up.
Took it for a spin, the brakes work very nicely ( i bought the ceramic wagner bundle ) but theres a slight grinding noise when driving, like the pads are touching and rubbing a bit too much on the rotor, but the driving is unnafected. Also, there's a sqealing noise coming from either side when you turn only.
Braking itself produces no noise whatsoever, only when you turn that it squeals.
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I have a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0L V8. It just recently began acting up. After warming up the engine goes through heavy power loss and inability to climb ANY hill. Usually cannot get above 30-35. I just recently replaced plugs and wires for a tune up and a faulty coil pack (approximately 5-6 weeks ago) causing a misfire on 8. Today in troubleshooting I attempted the "Backyard Mechanic" trick of unplugging the MAF sensor and took it down the road, no change at all in acceleration issues or on idle, truck runs the same. Unable to spot any exhaust or vacuum leaks or issues, recently cleaned MAF housing and changed Air Filter as well. All of these issues arose after a heavy ice storm, do not know if this had any impact or was just bad timing.
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I have a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer with 315,000 miles and pleased to say it’s a great car. Although in recent years during hot days the A/C doesn't blow cold at lower speeds or in traffic. It didn't do this when it was new say 200,000 miles. I checked the coolant charge at it remains fine no leaks, I think at at some point my mechanic did a conversion to the new refrigerant R something. What can I do to keep the A/C blowing cold at lower rpms? I have to add that it will also start blowing warm while driving down the interstate as well.
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I recently had rotors and brake pads replaced on my 2007 Camry (front pads/rotors and read pads/rotors).
It was done last week and she is braking fine. But sometimes now when I brake there's a low-medium squeaking sound from the brakes. Is this normal / what's the likely cause?
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--2003 Mountaineer 4.0/4WD 194,000 -- My mountaineer is making a loud, metallic, rapid "clanking" sound on slow max turns. It seems to be coming from the transfer case. Would that be possible? I recently changed the front wheel bearings and ball joints and the sway bars look good. There is no noise at idle and it will occasionally make a similar noise while going straight, then stop during the turn.
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I have a 2008 Mariner that has just started making a fairly loud chirping noise from the from. It is not always there, sometimes when the car starts it doesn't always start for a minute or two.
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So my engine light came on a few months ago. Shortly after white smoke came out of the tailpipe and it smelked like gas. Hooked the truck to a code reader and it was showing codes for spark plugs misfireing and 02 sensor. So my husband had someone change a few sparkplugs and a coil pack. They start it up after that and still doing the same thing. The guy checks the oil and says getvrid of this thing cuz your motor Is blown. Now I couldbt believe that because there was no knocking and the engine sounded fine. Anyway we get it home and leave it. A few days later we try to start it and it wont start. Then the battery starts dying out.
I take the battery to be tested and it needed to be charged but wasn't bad. So we jump the truck and it starts but won't stay running. Someone looks at it and says you have gas in your oil its your headgasket. Unwilling to accept that I have someone look at it. He gets it running and seems to burn all that gas out because eventually the oil doesn't smell of gas and the smoke was going away. So I decide its worth taking it to a shop and hope its something minor. Mechanic calls me says I know what it is. You need a fuel pump, your regulators are sticking...new fuel pump everything will be fine. My truck still won't start and its doing the same thing. If you jump it it will start then stall. They said its running so rich the gas is coming out the tailpipe. So again they know what it is the ecm. They try a used one and it doesn't take. Now I think they don't know. I tow my truck out of there. Try and jump it and nothing. No turn over.
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was going to do a brake job on my f250 light duty and the rotors won't come off. At first I thought they were rusted on but after looking at them it looks like the studs are attached to the rotor. Need to confirm this because the new rotors I got don't have the hub attached. Don't know if it's the wrong part or what?
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I have a 1995 850. About a year ago, I suddenly had a loud grinding noise coming from my brakes. It only happened in hot weather and when the brakes seemed to be hot. Also, it only happened when I was coming to a final stop, like the last 10-20 feet. I took my car to my "trusted" mechanic. They diagnosed it as being my front pads and rotors, so they replaced them (they also felt the front vibrating.) NOW the brakes seemed okay after I got it back the second time (no loud grinding noise.)
When I got the car back, the weather was starting to cool since it was nearing winter. My winter weather is like 70's during the day, and during this time, there was no grinding. It's now starting to get hot again, and sure enough, that grinding noise is back, but not as bad as the first time a year ago. Again, it is only when the brakes heat up and I come to a final stop (the last 10-20 feet.) If I break lightly, it won't make that noise, and it takes me driving for about 15 minutes for the grinding noise to start (it sounds like metal on metal and loud.) Also, I don't feel the vibration like I did a year ago. I only drive the streets, and have not been on the freeway since I got the new brakes.
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I have a 1997 Mercurey Mountaineer 5.0. In the morning it has no spark. If I disconnect the negative battery cable for 45 minutes or so and reconnect it, then it has spark and starts and will start and run perfectly every time all day. When it sits overhight, no spark. Same story every day.
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Driving in snow, braking in this car routinely handles poorly and brakes make a loud grinding sound. It sounds like the front brakes. I just had a brake job from a trusted dealer. I read the thread here on the Honda Accord that reported the same sort of brake problem. The issue is the brakes, NOT tires as that thread suggests. Braking strength is greatly impaired under these conditions. I am very apprehensive about driving in snow, and ready to trade in what is otherwise a fine car.
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I just bought this camry recently, it's an 2008 SE 4-cylinder with about 95k on it. Everything is fine on the car with the exception of one thing. Whenever I start it after a prolonged period of it being off, say in the morning or sometimes even having it off for an hour and then starting it again, when I start it, a loud grinding/scrapping noise comes from the front of the car.
This noise lasts for a good 30-60 seconds and as the car picks up speed it disappears. It just happens whenever I start it. Now I'm not sure that if the brakes or jammed or is it something to do with the transmission. I mention the transmission because during the drive, the car seems under a lot of pressure as if towing a large trailer and has trouble accelerating. At times when going downhill, it actually is slowing down as opposed to picking up speed and as soon as I let off the gas the speed drop from significantly.
I know this isn't normal because I used to an 2005 Camry LE 4-cylinder. So I know how the engine and transmission behave.
I took it the dealer recommended mechanic and he said that everything is fine. He's a nincompoop really. I took it to my mechanic and he said that the axle and bearing need to be changed on the passenger side and just the axle on the drivers side. My mechanic is a family friend and is skilled in his trade so I know he's not trying to shaft me.
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2002 Merc Mountaineer, 135K miles: I've been taking my car to the local town tire shop for years for my regularly scheduled maintenace. Just the usual oil changes, tire rotations, etc. If they saw some minor adjustments needed, they would just take care of it. About 2 years ago, when the economy tanked, they started hitting you with "The Form" - a checklist of all the recommendations needed for your car. For the past 3 oil changes, they said your brake fluid is black and needs to be flushed. Never heard of this so I always declined. Last week I dropped the car off for an oil change and planned to pick it up later that afternoon. I got the call about 2 hours later, and you know when you get a call before you expect, they always have found something wrong. This time it was "the brake fluid is really, really black" and needs to be flushed. I caved in and said OK do it and it was one of those XX.99 prices. Is this a needed maintenance or did I get flushed?
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Recently found with the cold snap on the east coast that my vehicle wasn't getting heat to the passenger compartment. I changed my thermostat and added a gallon of 50/50 antifreeze to the radiator coolant container. What the next step I should try?
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What would be the cause of a thumping noise coming from the right rear (pasenger side)side of the SUV. As I speed up is gets louder and faster. Check the tire it looks ok. Didn't check the other side of it.
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