Brakes - Civic - Honda :: 1999 - Parking Brake Won't Fully Disengage?
Apr 30, 2011
The parking brake on my 99 honda civic won't fully disengage. If you use it when you go to put the lever down it pops back up slightly. Just barely one click and sometimes not even that. I just replaced the rear brake drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, and it was badly needed. I thought that this would solve my parking brake problem as well, but after I got everything back together and the car on the road the problem persisted.
I saw in the Hayne's manual for the car the parking brake can be adjusted from underneath the armrest. So would an adjustment fix my problem? If loosened would the brake stay down when not in use and still work when I need it? I also saw as part of the procedure the manual has you put the rear end on jack stands. If you are just tightening or loosening a cable why would the back wheels need to be off the ground? Is this absolutely necessary?
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My car is a 1999 Honda Civic.
This morning I went in for a state inspection, oil change and rear brake replacement. Driving home while going downhill on the highway, I hit the brakes - and they failed completely. At first it felt like the car actually bucked forward. I tried flooring the brake, but felt no resistance and the car didn't stop. I kept my foot off the gas and coasted to a stop.
The tow truck driver told me he could feel a problem just getting the car onto the tow truck, and again when he took it off.
The Honda place checked it and did a test drive, found nothing.They said it couldn't be air in the brakes be took me for a short test drive and assured me I'd be fine. The
I headed home again and the brakes failed again at almost the same spot. This time it wasn't a complete failure. After no resistance at first, the brakes "caught" though somewhat mushily. I put on my flashers and kept going, at about 45 mph. Got off the highway and had to crawl because braking wasn't taking effect immediately. But as I drove on at 10 mph, they began working again. Not as well as they should, but enough to get me home.
It seems the brakes fail after 15 - 20 minutes of driving at 65 mph. They work better after a rest and at slower speeds.
If it makes a difference, my compressor is gone, so the car doesn't have a/c, and it is hot out so I'm wondering if the heat is affecting something. However, I haven't had these brake problems until today.
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I recently had some work done on my 97 Honda Civic (manual), and asked them to adjust the parking brake while they were at it. They tightened it up as they usually do when they work on the car (the other work was not brake-related, although they DID replace my master cylinder just back in February). Two days later, my brakes began to fail (much like they had when I needed the master cylinder replaced). Turns out, something happened with the parking brake such that the cables seized or something and caused the regular brakes to overheat. Once they cooled down, the regular brakes were fine again, so they disconnected one of the cables for the parking brake and ordered replacement cables to be installed next week, for a not inconsequential sum. My question is: did they screw up when they adjusted the parking brake, such that I shouldn't really have to pay the full amount for this subsequent repair? Or was this likely inevitable?
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After coming to a complete stop & starts driving again, I notice that the brakes squeaks a few turns & then stops. It seems that the brake calipers does not fully disengage from the rotors.
2006 Touareg V6 Silver
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I have a 95 Honda civic with a d15b block and a d16z6 head millage unknown I put a new clutch in it already had a new slave and master I installed a few weeks ago and when the car is running with out the clutch pressed in I can run through all the gears shift with ease it's like the clutch is pressed in but it's not
I've tried dropping the tranny and checking the pressure plate the clutch disc throw out bearing pilot bearing all good and installed right I rebleed the system then I removed the slave to see if it was in the hydroelectric system and still no change what am I missing.
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I have a 2002 Honda Civic EX 1.7L. Recently the brake pedal would sometimes go to the floor when I'd apply the brakes. The car would still stop, but not as quickly as normally. If I apply the brake and it goes to the floor I would release the pedal and reapply the brake and it would stop at it's normal position and the brakes felt firm and the car would stop fine. I was told my problem was the master cylinder so I bought one on Sunday and replaced it. I bled the lines and it seemed like all the air was out. The brakes worked great and the pedal stopped in the same place and was firm.
Now today on my way to work the pedal went down a little farther than normal during one stop. On the way home it stopped in different places. The brakes would always grab and the pedal felt fairly firm wherever it stopped. I drove it this evening again and the pedal went to the floor like with the old master cylinder. One pump and they grabbed in the normal spot. What is going on? Did I not bleed the lines well enough? Is the new master cylinder just junk? I saw in the manual that air can get trapped in the ABS sensor, but an air bubble problem should just make the pedal squishy, not change where it grabs, right? I'm stumped and I really don't want to take my car in if I can fix it.
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My car, a 2009 Civic, has started sounding like an airplane when I brake, just in the last day or so. Sometimes the noise continues for a little bit after I'm off the brake and moving again, but mostly not. Obviously, I'm going to get it in to the shop, but my question is do I need to take off work and do it today / tomorrow (Tuesday / Wednesday), or will it probably be OK if I wait until Saturday morning?
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I have a manual 98 civic with 120k miles on it that has recently developed an annoying habit of stalling. The car started fine the other morning so I backed it into the driveway to warm up, no problems there. When I went to leave for work, the car stalled and died. I got it restarted but when I tried to drive it stalled again. It happened as soon as I disengage the clutch. As I said, moving in reverse was no problem. The battery died after I attempted several times to restart it so I charged the battery overnight.
The next morning the car fired up right away with no hesitation nut as soon as I released the clutch it started sputtering so I gunned the engine to keep the RPM's up. I managed to get it into 2nd and even 3rd but as soon as I down shifted for a stop sign it died. So far I've replaced the battery and the alternator, both were on their way out anyways. Then this past weekend I got a good deal on a new fuel pressure regulator and put that on. The car started right up and ran nice and smooth. I took it out for a drive for about a half hour.
About 20 minutes into the drive I noticed that when I pressed on the gas pedal, the RPMs wouldn't move up much higher. Shortly thereafter the car started sputtering while accelerating. When I got home I turned the car off and went inside. I came out about 15 minutes later and the car wouldn't start. This has happened after every part replacement. New alternator, runs fine for 20-30 minutes,then won't start again. New battery, same thing. And tonight the gas pressure regulator. Could it be the main fuel relay, should I pull the injectors? The plugs and wires are new and the distributor is less than 2 years old and well sealed. I'm at a real loss here.
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We have a 2009 GLS AWD 3.3l and recently discovered that the parking brake was not fully releasing. We watch our mileage quite closely with the obc and it wasn't seeming quite right. A quick check of the rear parking brake drums showed that they were hot..as in not red hot but too hot to touch. The cure seems to be to work the parking brake pedal up and down fast and many times to 'free up' the mechanisms....this we now do after each time we use that brake. Sadly it is necessary to use it from time to time or like all parking brakes, it would become dysfunctional. Just a tip for those who may wonder why their good mileage suddenly went bad.
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Ok so i get off work and i go to my car, its around 6ish and its reading 36 degrees fahrenheit. On start up the car beeps and the parking brake wont disengage...tried pressing the button a couple times but nothing. So i turn it off and start it again...nothing. Then finally turn it off, let it sit till all the interior lights come off. Turn it on and lo and behold it works! At an ambient air temp of 36 degrees, is it possible that rotors and pads are frozen? Also could it be that the cold temperature is freezing the brake lines? Also the car was parked so that the wind was perpendicular to the brakes. So like a T with the long part being the wind!
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owner of a 2007 Passat 2.0T wagon, 6 spd manual, 32k km's. (leased) I'm having repeated persistent parking brake failures (won't engage, or won't disengage).
-About two months ago the parking brake would not disengage, error message on the MFD, yellow warning light and warning tone. Called roadside, finally got it disengaged by removing one terminal from the battery. Took it straight to the dealership, they "fixed" it by resetting the computer.
- The next day I have auto hold engaged, parking brake did not disengage when I turned the car back on. Had to turn engine on/off several times before it disengaged.
- Took it to the dealership again, had to get a rental car over a weekend while they diagnosed the problem. This time they changed some wiring and replaced the parking brake button.
- Next day the parking brake engaged ok but wouldn't disengage. Same routine on/off/on/off to get it to disengage.
- Back to the dealership again, they decided to replace the brake control module but didnt have stock.
- Last week I took the car back in (4th trip for this issue), they replaced the module and said it was fixed. Next day my wife got stuck in a parking lot with the parking brake stuck on.
- Called the dealership last friday and asked them to come pick it up this time, as my wife and I are sick of the inconvenience of this issue. (we share the car, both work, and also have a child's daycare to schedule around)
The problem is intermittent but not difficult to cause a fault. Can be caused when engaging, disengaging, or when the PB kicks in from auto hold when turning the car off. I try not to use it, but sometimes is necessary (parking on hills etc).
The dealership doesnt seem to know the problem and are just throwing parts at it. What recourse do I have for repeated problems? The manual recommends using this parking brake EVERY time the car is parked, so I don't think it's too much to ask to have it working properly.
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I don't really know how to describe the sound but whenever I stop and set the parking brake, the car makes a funny noise that kinda sounds like wobbling. It does this when I disengage it before I take off again as well. What causes this?
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Replaced break pads, calipers and master cylinder...still breaks sticking parts were replaced 3 weeks ago and are worn already.
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Parking Brake not releasing fully and therefore the car thinks it's on, sounds the gong and puts a big red P on the MFI? I've had this problem a couple of times now. I can cure it by hooking my left foot under the parking brake pedal and just lifting it slightly at the top of its natural travel when operating the release handle. But it certainly makes me not want to put it on. Trip to the workshop required?
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99 Civic drum brake problem I was trying to replace the brake shoes on my 99 civic LX and having a hard time getting the drum off. It was very rusty so I had to resort to using two 8mm bolts. I started driving them in a little at a time and heard a couple of pops. I though this was just the drum coming loose, but after it came loose I still couldn't pull it off and there were two very corroded broken pins on the back side of the back plate. This isn't normal is it? Now I'm wondering should I keep trying to pull off the drum? Or is it possible that the shoes had rusted to the inside of the drum and when I drove the 8mm bolts in I was pulling on the shoes themselves, or something else inside, as well as the drum? If something has gone wrong should I keep trying to get the drum off to address the problem or should I just put it back together and take it to a professional?
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I have an 07 Prius that's been going great for me. About two weeks ago I get this strange error message about my P Lock mechanism and how I need to be parked on a flat surface with the parking brake fully engaged. The car wouldn't start, just a bunch of warning lights. Finally I replaced the 12v battery at the dealership.
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my park brake will work when pushed to the floor but when i pull the release lever it will not disengaged.
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The parking lights, instrument panel, and climate control lights are on the same circuit it seems, and they don't want to come on right away when I turn the switch. I've checked all the fuses, and wires that I can see, I cant seem to come up with anything other than replacing the switch in the steering column.
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My 01 GTi (12v VR6) was having some trouble shifting into, and out of, first and reverse so after a bit of research I decided to try adjusting the shift linkage as it seemed like a possible easy fix. After doing that I tried backing it up in the driveway and after a couple of shifts to different gears it ended up getting stuck in reverse. When I pushed in the clutch pedal to let it roll forward I noted that it seemed to be resisting rolling forward despite the steep incline. Once it reached a less steep incline it stopped rolling forward completely, so I'm thinking that it probably won't come out of gear because the clutch won't disengage all the way.
I've done some searching around and from what I've read so far it sounds like it could be a worn or damaged clutch fork, the hydraulic lines, master or slave cylinder, or even a broken clutch plate. What I don't want to do is pull the transmission and clutch, only to find that it was something much easier to fix.
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The red dash light for my parking brake stays on until I jiggle the brake handle, then it stays off until I re-start the car the next time and then it goes on again. Brake fluid is fine.
Appears to be a faulty switch attached to the handle. How do I fix this? Is it a major job? [it's a 1998 Honda Accord]
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I have a 2003 Honda Civic EX. Purchased used with 82,530 on it. Current mileage of about 114,100 on it now. I recently replaced the front and rear brakes. During that process, I was informed that the rear brakes were warped (they were cleaned & adjusted when I replaced the front brakes, but they continued to squeak like a transit bus). I had the rear shoes replaced and there is no more squeaking, but I get a "drag" that is particularly noticeable when riding at highway speeds (55mph or higher). The drag seems to come from the rear right of the car, and it reminds me of what you might feel if you were driving against the emergency brake.
Took the car back to the mechanic that did the rear brakes. He started down the road of it being bad ball bearings. He test drove it with me and experienced the drag, but when he put it on the lift said something was catching and made an adjustment that eliminated this 'drag'. My impression was that the drag came from some oversight when the rear shoes were replaced.
The car rode fine for a few days after that, but now the dragging symptom is back. The mechanic's assumption was that it could be a ball bearing that is on it's way to going bad. I don't hear any noises in relationship to this drag. It feels either like something is holding the car back, or like something is keeping the power from the engine from making it to the wheels.
Is this a wheel bearing/brake issue? Would needing new spark plugs have any impact on this?
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