Brakes :: 2001 Toyota Solara SLE (V6) Emitting Scraping Noise From One Of Rear Wheels
Jul 18, 2014
Recently my 2001 Solara started emitting a scraping noise from one of the rear wheels. Mechanic says its a frozen caliper, and suggested a complete brake job (rotar, pads, etc). My question is, I've got reasonable skills, by buddy has major skills when it comes to working on cars, is that something that a shade-tree mechanic can safely do ? Also, as its a frozen caliper, does that imply I need to replace the caliper, or could it have frozen due to the pads ?
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I have a 2000 Toyota Solara with 145,000 miles. When I make a right turn, there is a scraping sound like metal against metal. Its not loud or shrieking. Its hard to hear over talk radio. But in the garage I can hear it, and its been getting louder. I haven't changed or replaced the tires in awhile or had any other work done to the right tire since long before the noise started. Is this something serious that requires immediate attention or is it some loose piece of plastic?
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My girlfriend has a 2001 Toyota Solara. I've been driving it, infrequently, for about 3 years, and while it's an older car, I never had any problems engaging the clutch. My girlfriend also did not have any issues with the car. I don't have a lot of experience with manual transmissions.
Recently, we let our friend use it for the day. I dropped the car off at his place and did not notice anything wrong with it. The next day, I got a call from my friend who said that the car was emitting a weird smell and that he was having a hard time engaging the clutch. By the end of the day, he could no longer engage the clutch and had to leave it on the side of the road.
We got it towed to a garage, and when they looked at it, they said the clutch was totally burned out. My friend insists that he has plenty of experience driving with a manual transmission and that there must have been a problem with the clutch before we gave him the car. Is this possible? It seems unlikely to me, as neither my girlfriend nor I had any problems with the car. It's not like we were struggling to engage the clutch- it was fine when I dropped it off, and then the next day it's totally burned out.
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I have a horrendous squealing noise coming from one of my rear wheels. Sounds bad at low speeds, changes frequency to higher pitch when going faster. The sound isn't constant (some times nothing), other times loud as hell. Sometimes gets worse when turning, then nothing when straightened out. When breaking, sometimes the sound gets worse, then goes away. It doesn't sound like a bad wheel bearing (had one go before- more of a growly noise). This sound is too high pitched. Also, checked the brake pads (plenty of life left), and rotors are good too.
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I heard a grinding noise from one of my rear wheels. After investigating, I saw that the OUTER pad was worn down all the way. I had only driven 15K and it had not been very long so I did not expect this. I also didn't hear the warning tabs as the they are on the inner pad and it had not worn down enough. I checked the caliper slide bolts and they were gliding freely. I checked under the boots and there was still grease in there.
My old pads had only been worn to 30%-50% so I installed those on for now. When I compressed the piston, I had a hard time getting it started and had to apply a bit of force with the C-clamp, but then it compressed without the need for much force. When I put the pads in, it was pretty hard to get them into the clips. the inner one required me to press pretty hard with my hand, the outer one was so tight, I had to use the c clamp to get it all the way up to the rotor.
I'm wondering what the cause may be. Are there some typical causes for why the outer pad may wear faster? I would think if the caliper bolts were stuck, that would do it, but they move freely? could it just be that the pad is too tight on the slider? How might I fix that? I tried filing them down a little but that obviously wasn't enough.
Also, now the pads on the right and left are uneven and the rotor on the right isnt smooth anymore. Should I go ahead and change out the pads and that rotor? Does uneven pads or a rough rotor affect the effectiveness of the brakes significantly? They are the rear brakes so I would think there is less of an impact. I know that uneven pads and a rough rotor will cause them to wear faster, but if I need to replace them anyways, I might as well wait til they wear down more.
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I had a super loud metallic scraping and clanking noise when I was backing out of my driveway the other night. It was so loud I though my exhaust was dragging or something.
It turned out to be a rock trapped between the heat shield and rear brake disk. I pressed the heat shield away from the disk a bit and the rock fell out. It's kind of crazy that such a little rock caused such a loud sound.
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I bought a 1995 k2500 sheyenne. There is a rather loud high pitch grinding/ squeaking noise emitting from what I would say the rear right of the truck. I have completely replaced the brake shoes and new pins and springs. No luck. What I can say is:
1. It hardly gets any louder as I speed up.
2. Still screams when in neutral, as long as the truck is rolling.
3. Rear differential has plenty of fresh fluid when I bought it.
4. If i hit a good size bump, it will run quiet for about 15 seconds.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Solara. Whenever I make a hard right turn the car turns off. When I stop and put it in park I can always crank right back up. I can turn left with no problems. What the problem is.?
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My 1988 Standard 2WD Toyota pickup truck has intermittent scraping in rear driver side wheel. It only occurs after slowing down from higher speeds and making a turn. It seems to happen IN the turn. The scraping pulses and is in time with the speed of the truck. Once it starts scraping, I stop for a minute, then it goes away.
This makes me think it is my rear brake drum, overheating and locking up. I've jacked up, in neutral, with handbrake OFF and both rear wheels have extreme resistance when I turn them by hand. I also jacked the front to compare the resistance of the front wheels, and there is nearly none. Not sure if this is normal since it is RWD.
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I just bought this camry recently, it's an 2008 SE 4-cylinder with about 95k on it. Everything is fine on the car with the exception of one thing. Whenever I start it after a prolonged period of it being off, say in the morning or sometimes even having it off for an hour and then starting it again, when I start it, a loud grinding/scrapping noise comes from the front of the car.
This noise lasts for a good 30-60 seconds and as the car picks up speed it disappears. It just happens whenever I start it. Now I'm not sure that if the brakes or jammed or is it something to do with the transmission. I mention the transmission because during the drive, the car seems under a lot of pressure as if towing a large trailer and has trouble accelerating. At times when going downhill, it actually is slowing down as opposed to picking up speed and as soon as I let off the gas the speed drop from significantly.
I know this isn't normal because I used to an 2005 Camry LE 4-cylinder. So I know how the engine and transmission behave.
I took it the dealer recommended mechanic and he said that everything is fine. He's a nincompoop really. I took it to my mechanic and he said that the axle and bearing need to be changed on the passenger side and just the axle on the drivers side. My mechanic is a family friend and is skilled in his trade so I know he's not trying to shaft me.
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Our 2010 Toyota Camry makes a squealing noise as we back out of our garage.Does this mean we new rear brakes?
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I wanted the pose the question here first to be more prepared when I bring my car into the shop this week. I just noticed the other day that my car is making a modest scraping noise when the car is making a hard right turn (like you would be making into a parking spot). It doesn't happen if you are just turning the wheel, the car must be moving. The sound does not seem to happen for left turns or when the car is going in reverse. I am leaning towards it sounding like it is coming from the front drivers side. The sound's speed is dependent upon how fast the car is moving...it sort of makes an spinning sound.
A few things to note about the car. It is a 2009 with 62,000 miles on it. It has been maintained religiously, following the manufacturers guidelines. I had service done on the car about 3 weeks ago (it is possible this sound has been around since then but the car doesn't get very much driving these days due to a carpool arrangement). The service done was: new tires and alignment, clean carbon build up off valves, rear drum brake adjustment (tightening and aligning I believe), transmission fluid replacement, and a new engine air filter. Could this be the result of the work done a few weeks back?
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Even after replacing the brake pads, I hear a scraping or grinding sound as the wheels rotate, one scrape/grind per rotation. It's particularly noticeable when I turn left, but the sound seems to disappear when I turn right. The mechanic said he doesn't hear it, but I think that's because he must have driven it on a gravel road. What else could be causing this noise? I worry that I'm making the problem worse by continuing to drive it.
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I have a 6-cyl, 2000 Camry that is making a scraping noise from the right rear brake. After driving it for a while I put my hand near the rotor and it was hot. The other side wasn't. I changed the pads and rotors yesterday and it's still making the noise. I'm guessing that there's something wrong with the caliper. Do I need to buy a new one? Can I rebuild the current one?
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Any fix for the rear brake noise I am getting on a 2001 Elantra. I pulled the drums off and inspected the drums and shoes all looks fine. Then I adjusted the brakes cleaned everything and still get noise. It occurs as the vehicle is coming to a stop last 10mph to stop.
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Have a 2010 Camry XLE, 47000 miles. I'm beginning to notice a weird, almost like "scraping" sound when I go from reverse to Drive with the wheels turned when it's cold. It only seems to happen when it's cold (sitting overnight in a garage). Once the car's warmed up and even allowed to sit for 8 hours in a parking lot in the sun, I don't notice the sound. The sound isn't horrible, nor is it loud, but it's definitely a noise that shouldn't be occurring.
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I've recently noticed that on my 2005 Gen 2, after starting the car, the first few miles I drive produce a gentle metallic rhythmic scraping sound coming from the right rear wheel.
It's only audible when driving at low speeds (<30 mph), and seems to disappear after the car has been driven for a few miles. But when I start the car fresh the next day, it has reappeared.
The rate of the scraping noise varies directly with the speed I'm driving. I think it only happens when I'm coasting (in Drive), and possibly also when I'm braking.
My guess is something is slightly misaligned or rusty - a disc brake? And the noise "disappears" when the metal gets warmed up?
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When on the highway, there is an occasional scraping/grinding almost a windy noise from the front left of the car. Happens most at high speeds when going over bumps. it's a Toyota matrix 2003 with 163k miles. We're on a car trip and are wondering if we need to address this now or if it can wait a few days.
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MY toyota camry is smoking white smoke from my tail pipe after I changed the oil in it which it had not been changed in a very long time and now a couple plugs are fouling out too.. what this could be...
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2001 F150--V8-4.6-3.55--8.8. 221000 Miles. Changed front rotors and pads. Had scrubbing noise from right rear when applying breaks heavily. Changed rear rotors and pads. Still have scrubbing noise when breaking hard. I do not hear any noise when driving regular or when normal breaking. Differential fluid was a tad low. Applied fluid. Still have scrubbing noise. No leaks at hub seal or pinion. Bearings ? Maybe?
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Scraping noise in front end when turning left. Have changed brake pads, calipers, and rotors on both front wheels. There was no scraping noise before changing.
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