Bmw - Z3 :: Clutch Doesn't Work - Low On Gas Light Is On?
Dec 2, 2012
My wife and I drove our 1998 BMW Z3 from Kapoho, the easternmost point of the big island of Hawaii to volcanoes national Park. This is about a 30 mile drive and you're going from sea level to 4000 feet. We were going up there to meet some friends driving over from Kona to tour the national Park. By the way these friends are from Boston and the husband and I went to school together at Michigan Tech in the 60s. Anyway we meet them in their jeep and tour around the park with them because our car is only two seater. When we're done we are going to drive back down to our house and spend the night. I purposely left the gas go way down in the tank of the Z3 in order to fill it up with ethanol free gas because we don't drive this car much and it sits a lot.
I asked my wife if she would like to drive the Z3 with the other couples wife while I drove their jeep with my friend her husband. We had agreed to stop at a glassblowing shop on the way down the hill called 2400°F. When we stopped there my wife explained that she had a really hard time shifting is the Z3 and when I drive it the rest of the way home, I had a hard time shifting, it felt like I couldn't really disengage the clutch completely and it was hard to get into first and reverse gear. All the time the low gaslight is now on. I get to the only station that sells ethanol free gas and fill it up. Of course the gas light warning light is off now but now it now shifts perfectly?????. It drives home fine all the rest of the way. What is going? How or why does the gas warning light being on make it hard to disengage the clutch?
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I noticed my tail light isnt working, so I decided to change the bulb. And bought a 7443LL Sylvania bulb from Oreilly. Fits perfectly but noob that hasnt opened a car before. Old bulb is greyish, I guess its blown out or something. I change both bulb because you buy them in pairs. Anyhow, I thought its the bulb is the problem but now its not. Since both break light and tail are of the same bulb but tail light isnt working. So I figured the bulb isn't the culprit. I called a friend and he says its the fuse. Found the fuse, bought and replace the fuse. I turn on the car, tail light is still not working. Check the new fuse, its blown, put another one, the same thing happen. It keeps blowing my tail light fuse everytime I start the car. Im quite sure I got the right 7443, its dual filament bulb (I can see 4 wires at the base and 2 string that would light up for tail and break.
Is there 2 fuse for the tail light, I only found one by the break pedal, its just below the turn signal/hazard relay.
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Owner of a 2012 GTI here. So for some reason that I have yet to re create, my passenger map light doesnt work sometimes. It seems to work sometimes but only when I do a full close and re-open of the car. When my doors open, they both should light up, but one doesn't. Even if I press the button.
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My '11 Limited has a trunk light that isn't working. I figured it was a bad bulb so replaced it (the old bulb's filament wasn't broken tho). Nope, still didn't work. So I took out the entire little bulb holder to check for bad connections, corrosion, etc. .....the connections are fine. Next I got my volt/ohm meter and checked for DC voltage at the plug coming into the unit.....I got 12.83 volts. So I hooked a jumper directly from the plug to a bulb's contacts and still no light.
What am I missing here ? How can I read voltage at the meter and not have the juice to light a tiny bulb?
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Just picked up an '07 5spd & noticed that the dome light doesn't work. no biggie, but then found that the dash lights don't work at all. When I turn the lights on the backlighting for the window switches comes on, as do all the running lights. The odometer & clock backlight properly dim out, but the dash & heat/fan control lights are dead. dimmer dial on the left panel has no effect. dash cluster fuse is good. If I can't get the dealer to fix it (only had it two days).
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My red triangle light came on! and the PS light came on the square screen and my power steering is in the dumps (doesn't work).
Where would be the first place to check? could it possibly be the accessory belt that came off/broke? is it hard to access/replace that?
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I am not sure if they are related or if they happened at the same time but my wife said her heater/ac fan wasn't working. So I figured it was a fuse, but after visually checking all the fuses and I mean all, none appear to be blown. After checking all the fuses I turned the car on, only to find out I put a couple fuses in the wrong locations and re-installed according to the diagram on the back of the cover. Turned car back on and heater fan as expected did not turn on. Then I noticed the Trac light on, not blinking or beeping just "on". After looking on the forums and web this means that it is turned off. If it is just off how do you turn it back on?
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Weird prob with this car. It starts ok but usually (90-95% of time) runs rough when I reduce pressure on the accelerator. During this time, the cruise control will not work; the cruise light doesn't even come on. However, about 5-10% of the time the car runs fine and the cruise control works. Not sure how these two are related.
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I have checked all wires for krosion and fuse's are good so confused! Just put brand new tail lights bulbs in! The top one comes on as a running light but nothing else works. I also checked under hood fuses too!
1.Only Hazard light that works is on the Right Front passenger side.
2 Drivers side Brake Light & Turn Signal Doesn't Work. But passenger works fine! Left turn signal is out and blinks really fast!
3.Passenger Side Overhead Outside Light on cab is out . Okay that's probably just a bulb!
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I have an 08 F350 regular cab 4X4 that the cargo light doesn't work, Is this powered from the interior light like the old ones? or does it get its power from the GEM module? If it comes from the GEM is it possible to feed it like the old ones from the interior dome light without killing something? I really miss having a cargo light.
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I have a 93 Aerostar 4.0 and it is displaying the blinking airbag light (3-2) and the horn doesn't work and the cruise control failed. I believe it is the clockspring ...
QUESTION: Can the clockspring be repaired or must it be replaced. I do not have a schematic of the electrical components of the clockspring ...
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My AC doesn't work right now, however, sometimes it works. It's very random, it doesn't matter if its hot outside or if its cool.
What happens is my AC clutch doesn't engage. when I turn ac on, it raises the idle for a second, and as soon as it does that, my ac compressor gets around 12 volts for less than a second, and the idle drops again. it does that in a loop.
My fans work fine, both high and low speeds, everything else works, all the fuses are good. I changed the pressure switch, didn't fix the problem. I also checked the ac coil and clutch. everything clicks and works. ground on the compressor is good.
Other odd thing - positive wire on the compressor constantly getting around 3 volts. What can it be and what else do i need to check?
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2001 V6 passat. the clutch doesn't start to grab until it is almost all the way up. there is maybe 1/2 inch of pedal travel where the clutch is actually grabbing. how much travel should there be when the clutch is actually grabbing?
This is a hydraulic clutch setup, right? so i was thinking best case scenario, it needs fluid or to be bled for air, worst is a new slave cylinder. 100K miles on it, engine ran strong and the clutch didn't slip at all.
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Here's my problem, when I'm on a hill and I engage first and let go of the clutch the car revs but the clutch doesn't grip tight. It's slow to engage but during regular driving my clutch is fine. My only problem is on hills.
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AC went out last week, was working great earlier that day. Checked under the hood and the clutch isn't engaging. Noticed an RPM spike every four seconds or so at idle when the AC was on. Checked voltage coming off the wires that go to the clutch and saw a voltage spike from essentially nothing to 9-12V which occurred in sync with the RPM spike. I poked a screw driver in the high pressure port and got a nice blast of coolant so I figured refrigerant isn't the issue.
Fuses are all good, in car and on battery. Replaced the fan control module and now there's no RPM spike and I get a constant 12v with the AC on at the clutch wire, but it still doesn't engage.
It's a 2000 Jetta 2.0 auto.
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AC on a R32 TURBO with fmic is working and cold. blowing around 55* in the shop, idling outside for a long time. everything works great.
drive it about 20 minutes or so.... get hot and doesn't work anymore. pressures are good, fans both work, car doesn't heat up past where it should be.
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I have a 2006 Kia Rio. About a month ago, I noticed that the car's AC only works when it's not hot outside. For example, it works when I leave for work early in the morning, but it blows hot air later in the afternoon when the temps outside. Or yesterday, we had an unusually cool day and the AC worked fine all day! But whenever it gets hot outside, the AC will blow hot air! What could be wrong? Relay or compressor clutch, maybe?
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Rear wheels aren't engaging. Truck is running on front wheel drive. They checked transfer case and differential fluids all is good with no signs of metal or broken parts inside. Truck drivers fine on dry and wet pavement no weird noises or vibrations. When I drove in snow the traction control light would come on as normal and when I'm getting stuck instead of the rear wheels causing the AWD Malfunction light comes on for about 5-10 seconds. And turns off. When car was on lift The drive shaft was able to be turned as if on neutral. Question is that normal? Maybe electronically disengages from transfer case? Anyway. A whole day at the service now they want to stay with the vehicle.
I have attached the light that comes on and off when the front wheels spin and no traction. Between 5 and 6 on the tach.
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Started having problems with one of the key fobs for my '09 Prius about a year ago. Battery change, perked up a bit, but then started malfunctioning. At first, wouldn't unlock car doors, then wouldn't start car. Will do so if insert into the fob receptacle, but not remotely.
I'm trying again to revive it, since it only lasted 4-5 months before. Won't unlock car doors again, etc. Unlock button does not appear to be stuck - you can feel it "clicking" when you press it, so it doesn't appear to be the stuck button problem.
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My AUX doesn't seem to work (had the IPOD plugged into the M-M cable and the other end plugged into the AUX in the glovebox). When I hit CD nothing happens, when I hold it down, I get CD-MIX. When I hit SAT multiple times it cycles through SAT1, SAT2, SAT3, but never shows AUX. I don't see anything regarding AUX in the manual either.... I have recoded my instrument panel to UK among a couple other vagcom mods. Can I fix this with the VAGCOM? Can I upgrade the firmware via a CD?
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On my '92, 302, I have a failing compressor. It is "catching" after 1 - 3 turns. The clutch doesn't want to spin freely, not cooling well at idle and local shop advised me to get a new everything, if I want it to last.
My question is if I can pull a compressor from the JY, from same year/model, replace orifice tube, run a cleaner thru, evacuate the system, and fill with appropriate refrigerant. The reason I'm not doing the full repair with new compressor, new condenser, new drier, is I'm going to be pulling the engine at some point with a newly rebuilt engine I'm working on. I know the old system have R-12, but isn't there a way to just get by with the 134 retrokit's?
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