Bmw - X5 :: 2009 - Battery Leaked And Damaged The Negative Cable
Feb 1, 2013
We have a 2009 BMW X5 with an AGM battery that leaked and damaged the negative cable. We don't know what caused this, and we're concerned it might be due to a problem with the battery sensor, voltage regulator, alternator, or electronic system/software. The dealer says there's no way to tell, and that "batteries just leak." However, we pointed out that BMW's online marketing info states that "The acid cannot leak and damage the battery housing." Based on this express warranty, the BMW dealer refunded us the cost of the new battery, cable, and labor. However, since we've read that battery failure is rarely due to the battery itself, but rather a symptom of some other problem, we're concerned.
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I'm working on a 95 Explorer, and I need to know where the end of the negative battery cable should be bolted to. Right now, it's hooked to a bolt on the back of the starter. That just doesn't sound right......
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Dealer is telling me I need a fuel pressure sensor. I was hoping it would be the PEM which is still under the extended warranty. Is the sensor and the PEM one and the same? By the way, 99% of the time the car runs normally. Assuming the sensor and the PEM are different, could the sensor flat out totally fail at any time?
Dealer is suggesting to replace the negative battery cable!! I remember replacing old cables in my old cars, admittedly many decades ago for a few bucks. Even considering that it is a different world now, can a cable cost that much. Dealer is asking Volvo to consider the sensor as warranty or to participate because I had complained about hesitation more than once starting about five years ago, but they found nothing at that time. My complaint is still in their computer system.
2005 Volvo s40 t5
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My car has been having an issue with battery draw. when I don't drive it for 2-3 days the battery is drained enough for me to need my jump pack to start it. I have done a wire tuck on the motor and also have air ride. I hooked a wire up between the battery and the negative cable with a light connected and it lights up with the car off. What I have done so far is to pull each fuse in the door fuse panel individually and the light stayed on the entire time. Next I pulled the power feed to my air ride system out and the light flashes and I can hear what sounds like a relay clicking. If the issue were the air ride I would think disconnecting it would make the light go out.
I need to pull the fuse panel that was on top of the battery and pull those fuses out too. Should I try pulling the relays as well?
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Over the past year or so I have noticed that when I press the clutch on my 1985 CJ-7 258 that the headlights would get brighter. This happens when driving or just sitting at an idle. This happens only after you press the clutch enough to take up the usual 1/2-1 inch of play in the clutch pedal. When you release the pedal, the lights dim slightly. Another thing that may be related---over the past few months, it has been a bit sluggish to start until, finally, it wouldn't start at all. I looked at the battery and the cable connector on the negative battery pole is partially melted and ran down onto the top of the battery. What the problem might be? I'd hate to get a new battery and just have the same thing happen again.
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I recently replaced the center console due it being damaged whilst replacing tape player, while reinstalling the circuit boards I damaged the ribbon cable between the two circuit boards and the heater and ac do not work. How or what I can do to repair or get a replacement part.
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While reinstalling my battery after working on my 94 sentra my negative battery cable melted my negative terminal.
I installed the positive first then went to do the negative and huge spark/smoke and I see my terminal melted on the one side.
What might be causing this?
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I replaced the 12v battery this morning with an Optima, as some here suggest. No problem, but the strap on the Optima is touching the negative connector wire. I tried squishing the battery strap under the metal hold-down bar but that doesn't work.
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Man, do I long for the days of carburated engines and distributor caps. Problems were obvious and so were the fixes. About 2 months ago, my engine light came on. There were no symptoms of any problems. Plugged in VAG COM and got the codes. They pointed to a possible faulty temp sensor and a possible bad O2 sensor. I grabbed my multimeter and tested both. They checked out withing specs. I read about a problem with the OEM temp sensor and replaced it for $4.50. A new O2 sensor is about $125. I didn't feel like wasting $125 on a perfectly good O2 sensor. So I waited until I could afford to take it to VW to let it be their problem at $90/hour.
Last week, the car was hard-starting from what seemed to be a low battery. All the voltages tested fine, so I called a friend with a load tester to test it on the weekend. Before the weekend came, I had to get jumped once and pop-start a couple other times. I needed a new battery. After all, it was the original, oem battery.
48 battery for my 2001.5 Passat. This battery does not fit. It needs a group 91. This was a pain in the a&$ to locate and one expensive battery at $119 before tax and core charge.
The silver lining, however, is that replacing the battery seems to have made my engine problems disappear. I have dome the requisite amount of driving to reproduce an engine light, but it has not re-appeared. VAG COM reported that everything is A-OK. I would never have guessed to replace the battery to fix the codes I was getting.
Anyway, take note, I am not sure what lesson I leared here, if any, but it's worth having this knowledge if you ever run into this elusive problem.
BTW, I also undestand that you can fix a faulty headlight by kicking your Passat in the tailpipe.
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I have a 2011 Toyota Corolla LE with about 48,000 miles on it. Today I was changing the oil, and when I unscrewed the oil filter some anti-freeze came out of it.
I am not super mechanically inclined so I called a friend who works at a shop (he's not a mechanic) and he said it could be a blown head gasket, but also could be coolant or pipe leak. I still have a powertrain warranty on the car, but I was wondering if this is a normal issue for 2011 Corolla's, or maybe a different problem?
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I have a 2001 Nissan frontier SE the 6cylinder, no turbo, automatic transmission. My wife was not paying attention and thought the truck was running and so she put it in reverse and then realized that the truck as not running so she tried to start it while in reverse, when that didnt work she put it back into park and when she tried to start it, the cd player restarted and the wipers started and the guages peaked and whe truck made a fast ticking sound. i thought that it may have some how killed the battery but it does the same thing with the new battery in.
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A Subaru '09 with 60.000 miles has a damaged piston. The mechanic first said that I need to get a new engine for 5 grand. Now he is looking for other optionsThis car can be sold -in good condition- for about 12.000 but without the engine is worth 4-5.000 should I put a new engine to a 4 year old car? Why can't I change the piston and fix whatever other damage it might have?
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Removing the negative battery cable piece that connects the cable to the terminal. Where I can get the screw that tightens the connector around the terminal.
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My daughters '09 Corolla was shaking and misfiring occasionally. When she took it to the shop the mechanic had it for a couple days and after many attempts finally reproduced the issue. After several diagnostics tests they determined it to be a damaged cylinder. We had the option of
1. replacing the engine
2. retooling it
I called around to a couple other mechanics and they told me the same thing. One particular mechanic (no affiliated with Toyota) told us that he had heard this happening on both the Camry and the Corolla. Sound like a manufacturer issues if it's been seen frequently.
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I had to swap in a new battery the other day, and I noticed that the positive terminal connector is broken. I don't really want to pay >$100 for a new cable right now, so any success story about splicing in just a new terminal ring or using one of the generic battery cables?
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I am installing a wiring harness in my 2007 Camry SE so that I can tow a small flatbed utility trailer I have to carry my kayak on trips. I have the wiring harness all installed except for I now have to route the power cable for the harness from the trunk to the battery in the front of the car. The instructions give no suggestions on how to get the wire to the battery other than to avoid hot parts and suspension parts.
What would be the best and easiest way to get the wire to the front? I'm not well versed in car mechanics or how to take things apart so I would prefer the easiest, most direct way if there is one.
I have already found a grommet in the trunk with a factory wire harness going through it to the bottom of the car so I can route my wire through there, but after that where to go next. The only thing I can think of is there is several brackets holding the 2 fuel lines and the 2 rear brake lines, there is a open spot between the 2 fuel lines so I could use the empty spot in those brackets to hold the wire for most of the way to the front, do fuel lines get hot at all? Do you think it would be safe to route the wire that way?
As for getting into the engine compartment, how to do that without getting in the way of the front suspension while keeping the wire away from the transmission and axles.
If this is too complicated to do myself, my dad has a friend who is a electrician and likes to restore cars that could do it for me but he is almost always busy, thus hard to get a hold of and I like to try and learn some things about my car and do as much as I can on my own.
This is the trailer light wiring harness I have, there is a link for the instruction manual there too
[URL]
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I replaced a battery on a 1998 jeep grand Cherokee v6. It started and ran fine, but then in my infinite wisdom, I decided to remove the negative battery cable with the engine running to test the alternator. Some smoke started coming from the back of the engine, so I immediately killed it. It wasn't running for more than 5 seconds. When I started it again, it faltered, but the second time it started fine and ran fine, a little more smoke came out but stopped soon. it smelled like burning oil. We drove it around the block with no problems. I know it wasn't the alternator that was smoking because that's not where it was coming from, and I doubt it was the ecu because then it wouldn't run.
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When I dropped my 2 frame rail batteries I noticed the clamp on the positive battery cable was broke. How to splice in a new clamp?
Pick and pull is an option. I would rather repair my OEM cable and be done.
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My AUX cable stopped working on my '09 Camry SE. I've tried switching cables and the problem persists. People have suggested that I go to the dealer and get it checked but I'm afraid of the big bill they will have waiting for me.
The problem started as just the AUX losing connection when the car hit a pothole but after a couple of days, it stopped working altogether. there is any easy and cost efficient fix to it.
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While driving home after replacing a dead battery, clearly I didn't tighten the negative cable enough as it popped off while I was driving (I only found this out after I got home though). But even after popping off, the truck kept going, albeit with the battery gauge maxed out and the dashboard/headlights flickering. I turned off what I could (it was night, so I needed headlights!), but it still accelerated well, and there were no noticeable performance issues at all. When I got home, I tightened the cable, started it up again just fine, ran it for a minute, then turned it off and restarted it fine again with no problems.
My concern is: am I looking at serious electrical issues long term, or should I be ok? I'm just trying to make sure that driving without a negative cable for less than a mile doesn't fry certain parts of the car, and end up causing big issues down the road. (Truck is a 2000 dodge dakota slt)
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My vision get blurry when looking down at the dash speedometer so I bought a external speedometer to look like a heads up in the windshield. Kinda at lost where to tap at the speedometer and tach cable.
2010 Corolla S
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