Bmw - Transmissions :: 1998 - Clunks When Shift Into The Next Gear
Aug 18, 2014
I have a 1998 bmw 528i (e39) with 200k on it. It runs and drives like a dream except for one little thing.... when shifting into the next gear at around 25mph, if I let off the gas just before it shifts it clunks as it shifts into the next gear. However, if I accelerate through the gear change it is smooth as can be and has no problems through the gears.
Secondly and I believe unrelated, I am also looking for the location of a transmission temperature sensor... I have heard they tend to fail and can cause issues with shifting until the car is up to running temp. I experienced an issues with it once not wanting to shift out of 1st gear until it warmed but that was before a filter and fluid change. Since that, I haven't any issues, but I want to be prepared just in case with one on hand ready to go in.
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This problem started at the beginning of this winter. So I started to idle for 2 mins and the car was shifting without an issue.
However, now it is completely stuck and wont shift to 3rd gear even if I drive for 15 mins at 60mph.
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It is a 2001 1.8T Golf, automatic. 75000 miles on it, mostly highway. I returned from my recent road trip, halfway across the country, which involved a couple of snow storms but otherwise everything ran smoothly.The day after I got back, I was going to dinner and the car wouldn't shift up out of 1st gear... unless I gunned it to almost 40 mph. Next time I started it, the check engine light turned on. I have driven it 3 miles, twice, since then and the problem remains. What the problem might be, if I'll need to replace transmission or just some fluid, or get a new car?
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I've been have been having a problem with my car. It initially started at Christmas when I went up to MI for a visit. It would have problems shifting into gear after reversing. At first I just thought it was because it wasn't used to the really cold weather as we live in AL.When I returned it still did it, I would try the other gears available on the auto transmission and it still seemed to have a problem shifting from 1 to 2. It would slow down and you could rev the engine and it still would not shift.
All of a sudden it would kick and shift and you could drive. This only happened the first time you drove it that day. It would also kick very slightly when you went below 30mph. It doesn't do that anymore.I went for another visit up north and while I was there it started kicking whenever I was over 60mph. When i got back to AL I took it into the dealership as the check engine light came on. It now kicks all the time regardless of speed, though does it less at lower speeds, but if there is exertion on the engine like a hill, it kicks, kicks, kicks. When it kicks the rpm goes down and up.The dealer said that the things that needed to be changed are:- front assembly trans pump- crank sensor- gasket- oil pan.
I've tried taking it to a transmission place to have just the pump changed for less and all they wanted to do was give me a whole new transmission. This car is on it's third transmission as far as I know and a new/rebuilt one was just put in 2 years ago.After talking with my father (who was a engineer) he told me a way to check if the crank sensor a problem was to have the car in neutral and rev the engine. He said that it would still do the same problems if it was the crank sensor. I did this and it did not kick at all.Is there any real way of knowing if it is really the pump that is causing all these problems or if it really needs a new transmission or something else.
Chrysler Town and Country, 2003, 134K ...
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I have the above referenced car with about 65k miles on it. Today I took it for a drive, switched it to tip-tronic manual and found that the car would not shift past 3rd gear. When I switched to automatic, the transmission stayed on tip-tronic (the display indicated I was on 3rd gear). I had to fully stop the car, place it on park and only then did the transmission switch to automatic.
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I recently had a spin out on the ice in my 2001 Honda Oddessy Minivan and had to have the back wheel and front rim replaced. I definitely hit the sidewalk at least once and ended up backward in traffic with the back of my van on the sidewalk. Just after getting the work done I noticed for the first time that my car was having trouble shifting out of park into any other gear when starting and when I had it running but put it in park. I have to either press the brake several times, all the way into the floor to get it to shift out of park or pump it once or twice quickly and when I hear a little click, shift it into gear. Is this a transmission problem? Could it have been caused by my spin out?
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For the past 3 months, upon shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear, the car lurches forward in a hard shift. Sometimes, it is nothing more than a benign "clunk", and other times it is violent, as if hitting a wall. This does not happen every time it shifts and even under identical acceleration, the results vary from none to violent. The number of violent shifts vs. small jolts has increased over time, and all other transmission functions and shifts are fine/normal. After much time researching the inter-blogs, I have come to no consensus on what is causing this or how to fix it.
Some say it is the adaptive shifting program and it just needs updating and others say it's the tranny and a rebuilt tranny replacement is the only thing that eventually fixed this problem (though one posting on the Hyundai forum is of the same exact problem, but the solution is worrisome -- contact negative battery terminal to positive, let sit for 10 min, reconnect, then drive at 1/3 throttle, shifting through all gears a dozen times. Poster says this resets adaptive shifting program and worked for him).
Finally, today, I took it in for a diagnostic with a local transmission specialist, and they could only replicate the hard shift once, but when that happened, he said the car went into limp mode and read two codes: P1193 and P2127. The car has never gone into limp mode (P1193) nor shown an signs of suppressed RPMs associated with this mode. Also, he seemed to focus his attention on the low voltage to the pedal position sensor (P2127) as being the major issue that is causing the hard shift. I also called a past dealer that worked on a similar issue with the car when I bought it used 4 years ago and they recommended updating the adaptive shifting program as they did last time; though I don't recall if the shifting issue was the exact same problem I am having now. So, a few things:
Does this sound like a computer issue or a tranny issue? Could the pedal position sensor having low voltage cause a shifting problem like this? Any merit to the connecting the battery terminals idea? Should I be wary of the mechanic that did the diagnostic today?
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I have a 2007 Chevy Malibu with around 190000 miles on it. Recently, first thing in the morning then I start driving, that car will not shift into 2nd gear for a bit. The engine will rev up the 2000 RPM and stay there. After a while it will finally shift. The fact that the engine stays revved that high for that long makes me nervous.
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Ozzy is a 2003 Hyundai Accent with an automatic transmission. Over the last 2 year he has been having a lot of problems with his transmission. The first thing that was done was to replace his transmission fluid. Unfortunately the chuckle head that replaced his transmission fluid put the wrong kind in and he had to have a whole new transmission installed. And now only about a year later Ozzy is having transmission problems yet again. What is happening is that it feels like the car is struggling to shift gears and then once in gear it will suddenly accelerate.
Also, the idle races even when your foot is not on the gas pedal and yes, the check engine light is on. So, I have a couple of questions. First how much longer can she keep driving it like this before the engine falls out somewhere on the 405? Secondly how much is it going to cost to repair Ozzy? Also her driving the car when it is behaving this way is really dangerous, right? Because it felt pretty scary today when I was sitting in the passenger's seat and we were doing 75 on the freeway and Ozzy was shaking and making all sorts a noise. And lastly, she needs a new mechanic right, there is no way she should keep going to these guys that put the wrong fluid in and then replaced her transmission, right?
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My 2005 PT Cruiser (not turbo) is giving me a very frustrating P0700 code and a weird problem. First thing in the cold, autumn, the car drives perfectly fine (through still with the engine code on). Once the day warms up a little, the transmission decides that shifting past second gear is for punks and won't do it, so 30 mph has the engine revving at 3K rpm.
My morning commute is 20 minutes, and in that time, I go up to 50 mph with no issues. Driving home, or any other time of day, becomes the issue. What in the world could possibly be going wrong? I've been trying to hit up the junkyard for a PCM to see if switching that out would work, but it's been too rainy and cold to get out there.
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The timing belt broke on my aveo, destroying the engine. I replaced the engine with a used one. Now I get the car back on the road and the automatic transmission won't shift from 3rd gear into 4th. Is it possible this problem was caused when the new engine was installed, or the transmission was damaged when the timing belt broke?
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Why will my 98 Jimmy not shift into 3rd, or 4th gear? It is an automatic 4L60E transmission. It all started on a trip to Gatlinburg, TN. It felt like it was slipping when shifting into 3rd, intermittently for several months before finally failing completely to shift into these gears. What is going on here?
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I am considering buying a 98 Passat, it has 140k kms (80,000 miles) on it. It is in mint condition, but the transmission, will not shift past 2nd gear, whether in Auto mode, or manual shifting? (5 speed tiptronic).
The current owner took it to a mechanic, he tested it, replace a sensor in the tranny, but the problem is still there, and the engine light is still on. Is it possible that the computer just needs to be reset with a proper Vag-com?
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98 Gmc Jimmy 4.3L engine 4X4, they told me when the Abs light would come on will driving the tranny would not shift past 2nd gear, so after a month of not driving it, I took it for a drive Abs light was out vehicle drove fine shifted good even took it on the highway still ran good, two weeks later problem is back Abs light comes on after driving for a few minutes and the tranny goes into limp mode can't shift past 2nd gear plus the speedometer was not working, could it be speed sensor on the tranny causing the Abs light and the tranny from working wright.
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My 1988 Volvo 240 DL a/t 200000 miles does not shift into overdrive (4th gear ). Is there a relay between the switch and the solenoid?. Is it okay to drive over 40mph.
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Recently I had a stuttering and squealing from a belt. I was able to shift into all gears with no problems. Before I could get it looked at, the squealing stopped and I was unable to go faster than 30 mph. The belt and pulley were replaced, but the car now will not shift out of 2nd gear. Transmission fluid is good, and has not been leaking. Does this indicate that I will need a new transmission? Or is there possibly a less expensive possibility? I've heard that some vehicles have what's called "limp mode". Also, is it safe to drive at 30-35 mph., and what damage might I do by driving it?
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It's a 1988 with a 3.0 engine and an automatic transmission. It doesn't want to shift. I can make it shift manually, but if I leave it in OD, it wants to stay in 1st gear . If you fiddle with the accelerator, you can get it to shift. Then it wants to stay in 2nd, and so on.
Like I said, if I use the gear selector to manually shift, it will go to all four gears just fine.
My thoughts are a vacuum leak (a big one) or a faulty vacuum modulator at the transmission. No, the vacuum line to it doesn't have tranny fluid in it, but I replaced it, and I wonder if it's bad. Yes, I made sure to put the little metal pin/link back in it.
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98 Ranger 4x4 4.0 L Supercab. Today I replaced my instrument cluster lights. When I put everything back together i noticed my gear shift indicator is off and I cant shift into 1st or 2nd. What did I screw up?
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This is what’s wrong with my 1998 Honda CR-V manual transmission. When it’s off, the gear stick works normally. However, when I start the car, the gear stick gets stuck and won’t move to change gears. It happened before a couple times and if I warmed the car up for about 10 minutes it worked normally again, and normally the next time I drove it. However, this morning, the gear shift would not work even after warming it up, except when the car was turned off.
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I have a new 2002 Toyota Dbl-Cab SR5 Pre-Runner. I love the truck except every time you come to a stop, the tranny clunks. Also, when you start to move forward again, the tranny clunks again. Ever tow something an when you stop you feel the trailer catching up with you in a clunk? Feels and SOUNDS just like that.
So me being the good customer that I am I called up for a service check. The service dept guy told me that this is normal on all Tacoma DBL cabs, Tundras, Sequias, etc. That is is the two drive shafts separating when I move forward, and pushing together when I come to a stop (esp. a hard stop). They checked it out and also re-aligned the truck since my steering was WAY off and the steering wheel was not even centered.
Now that I have been driving the truck for about 1700 miles, the clunk is getting much worse. This can't be normal! I love the truck but this problem is driving me crazy. Every stop and start I cringe at the expected CLUNK. It shakes the whole truck.
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My wife's been complaining off and on about a clunking noise with her '06 Passat 2.0T I couldn't get it to replicate; maybe three complaints on the last 10 months? I wrote it off to the transmission, as it occasionally clunks down into gear on downshift; done this since new, maybe twice per year.
Anyway, she just got the tires rotated last week. And oil change has been at the dealer last six months.
That's why I was shocked when I was changing the front pads tonight. I removed the left wheel, and a fractured sway bar was staring me in the face, end link dangling loose.. The brake was far from fresh...lots of rust and crust on the brake.
I can't see whether it was hit, other than the brake. Everything else looks good. I'm just floored that VW dealer, and especially Discount Tire, didn't catch this during routine work.
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