Bmw - 745 :: 2003 Will Not Start In The Cold
Jan 24, 2011
Why my car will not start every time it get really cold; also I have not started it in about 4 days.
View 2 RepliesWhy my car will not start every time it get really cold; also I have not started it in about 4 days.
View 2 RepliesWhen I start my car from a cold start - mostly in the AM, the car hesitates to start - but always starts. But the check engine light comes on along with the Vehicle Stability Assist indicator light and the VSA Activation Indicator lights come on. If I let the car warm up and then shut it off and restart, all lights go off except the check engine light. After two or three stops and starts (shut off and restart) the check engine light goes off.
I took it too the dealer and they said the computer indicated the cooling system had a malfunction. They did a pressure test on the system which indicated a leak. However, they could not find any coolant leaking from the radiator or belts. They only conclusion they could come to is that the head gasket "might" be cracked. The oil has not indication that the coolant is leaking into the oil.
There is no smoke coming from the tail pipes. So they said they think the exhaust is leaking into the radiator and forcing the coolant into the coolant reservoir thus leading to the engine to "overheat". BUT the engine is not overheating. if it is a cracked head gasket, will additives to the radiator such as Steelseal or blue devil really work?
2003 Acura TLS V6 engine....
my 2003 ion saturn will not start on cold mornings. after i wait a couple of minutes or more it will start. what is the problem. it has 97,000 miless on it.
View 8 RepliesI have an 03 Sierra Half Ton when the engine is warm it runs fine but at cold start, half the time it doesn't have the fuel pressure to start, i have to turn the key a couple times to build it up. Idk if the fuel pump is weak for if it would be more the regulator. I started having this problem after i replaced the fuel pump. The fuel pressure gauge shows 50-55 lbs, but every now and then when its cold it will only jump to around 5 lbs (but this is only when the engine is cold... why?) What should i go after first? Regulator, new pump, Replace the fuel filter again?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 civic (automatic) with 72000 miles on it. It recently began hesitating from a cold start. It will hesitate once or twice, I stop, and after that it is fine for the rest of the drive. Since it is sporadic, it's hard for the mechanics to see what is going on. I took it to one mechanic who cleaned the fuel injectors, cleaned the throttle plates, flushed the transmission fluid, and replaced the spark plugs. He also put a note on the bill that the transmission may need to be rebuilt soon, although he didn't mention that when he told us what he did. The car drove fine for about three weeks after that, and then it started hesitating daily.
I took it into another mechanic who was able to see the problem for himself when I left the car overnight. He scanned it for error codes, but didn't find anything. He said he checked all connections and wiring and cleaned the wiring but that was all he could do. He said he thought it was a bad O2 sensor, but because the check engine light isn't on, he can't do anything. Meanwhile, he said I should keep driving it in hopes that it will get worse so they can figure it out. I'm worried that I may be causing long term damage, and that I may get stuck in the middle of an intersection without power. Is there anything they didn't check that they should have? Should I take it to another mechanic?
With the very cold weather I'm having problems getting my car to start again after it's been running a while--starts okay initially no matter the temp, run it for ~15 minutes then go to my first work stop. One hour later sitting outside in 0F and I can't get it to start, won't turn over. Just got a new battery, had the spark plugs/starter/fuel line checked "looks okay". Starts after it gets really cold again, needs to sit out for a few hours in the single or negative digits. Dealer is 100 miles away and I have not been happy with the service there.
View 1 RepliesOne of my roommates is also my ride to the bus stop in the mornings, and we've been arriving later and later for the past few weeks because of a persistent issue with his car, a 2003 VW GTI basic trim with automatic transmission.
After starting it in the morning, we have to wait a few minutes for it to warm up before it will agree to shift out of first gear while in D. Even then, often after he comes to a stop and turns left, it will once again refuse to shift out of first gear, so we'll be forced to pull over and wait a few more minutes once again.
I read a few forums that mentioned stuff about solenoids, but the whole thing is over my head. He does park on a steep-ish grade, as we live on a hill, if that provides any further clue. We're in Southern California, so the temperature isn't too extreme here, and there seems to be no other reason to have to warm up the car.
So that's about it! How we might go about getting it resolved? Is it something we can roll our sleeves up in the driveway and do ourselves?
My 120,000 mile 2003 VW Jetta will not start in cold weather. It starts fine when the temperatures are in the 30s, sporadically in the 20s and not at all in the teens and single digits. When I turn the key, the engine does nothing; it does not crank. Three mechanics have not been able to figure out the problem.
View 7 RepliesWinds way up with a whine for the immediate 2-3 seconds after a cold start only and settles down as normal. Disturbing new sound and action that just started in the last day or two. 216k on the clock.
View 4 RepliesMy 2003 F-150 knocks pretty bad on my early morning cold start ups. It only happens if it had set for a while. Its not a knock coming from the bottom end it sounds like its coming from the top end, cams cam followers... etc. I was wondering if I should be concerned. I am running 5-20 mobil 1 with a motorcraft filter. My truck always seems to use a half a quart to a quart between oil changes too. The truck only has 60,000 pretty mild miles on it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 Camry 4 cylinder. The problem we are having is the car has a slight rough idle only at cold start. After she warms up she is smooth as glass. What would cause this?
View 14 RepliesI recently acquired a 1.8t auto Wagon from a friend who passed away, I dont wanna sell it, so I figured why not keep it. So here's my question. On cold starts the RPM's kick up above 1K and then drop to the proper idle speed. The engine purrs nicely, but I have noticed that it sounds beefy inside the cabin during warm up. I can feel the light vibrations on the steering wheel. After I start driving the car warms up and everything seems normal. It just sounds like a fan or blower motor has come on with the engine. No ticking or anything like that. Is this normal?
View 5 RepliesOn cold mornings when I start my car the engine revs sporadically. It will initially stay at about 1200 rpm for a couple seconds, but then the rpms slowly increase or surge until cut off about 2400 rpm and the process starts again until the car is warm. The colder it gets the worse it is, usually 50 degrees or less it's noticeable. It has done this since I have owned it with 40,000 miles (now has 117,000).
I did find this TSB EG022-07 but it is for a manual transmission, but describes my symptoms (mine is AT). Also, I believe the ECU was replaced with the catalytic converter on another TSB at 78,000 miles in 2009, which is 2 years after the TSB. Is it possible that the ECU still needs an update? Or, is there a different problem? I know its not the o2 sensor, plugs, battery, or intake gasket, and of course Toyota mechanics told me its normal, and cant duplicate the problem.
We have and enjoy our 2003 Ford thunderbird. It has the 3.9L v8. Great fun except for the first 3 seconds after starting. When you start it after it sits for more than three hours or so, it has a loud engine clatter for just a few seconds. Then it's fine and rides great with no other noise. It certainly appears that it is not getting lubrication for that first few seconds. What it is? Should I be concerned? I have heard suggestions like, change the oil filter, variable timing chain, and valve seals.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Am, 3.4L V6. The engine runs perfectly as long as it is kept hot. If allowed to cool completely it will crank and crank all day but never fire. However, if I disconnect the battery for at least 30 minutes and reconnect it, it fires right up every time. I have good fuel pressure when it will not fire, but it seems as if the injectors will not fire. Suspecting the injection driver, I replaced the ECM/PCM. The exact same problem still exists.
View 8 RepliesMy 2003 VW Jetta TDI has a major problem. The engine has likely been damaged by an oil leak that was not discovered until the oil ran out. I now have much reduced compression (340lbs or less) and the car doesn't like to start in cold weather and when it does it smokes much. I need to know if it is worth rebuilding and, if so, where I might have this work done.
View 3 RepliesRecently purchased a used 2003 Toyota Camry LE. After a recent oil change at the local Toyota dealer we noticed that when we start the car in the morning a puff of white smoke spews out from the exhaust for a few seconds and stops. There is no more white smoke while driving the car around. The car runs perfect and has no power loss. Initially we had noticed it was losing coolant. All the discussion on the internet pointed to a bad head gasket. We had a mechanic look at it and it turned out that the radiator was leaking and hence the loss of coolant. He also noticed the oil was overfilled so he brought it down to the normal level. The mechanic also checked the head gasket and claimed there were no issues with it. Replacing the radiator took care of the coolant loss but the white smoke still comes out only the first time the car is started.
View 8 RepliesSpecs: 2003 Ranger Edge / 3.0 V6 / 5-speed 4WD / 238,000 miles
Yesterday my truck was in the shop for repair. Intake gasket, Transmission fluid change, all heater hoses, thermostat, serp belt and coolant flush. When I picked it up from the shop, which was after closing, I noticed a knocking on start up. From past experience on a different truck, it sounds like a cam that isn't oiling. After a few minutes the knock goes away. I drove for a few miles, turned off the engine and started it back up and no knock this time. This morning I started it, knock was back but went away after a few minutes. Oil was changed about 1500 miles ago. Running pennzoil 5/20 with a K&N filter. Up until yesterday the engine has been completely quiet. Was wonder if something may have clogged the filter or the drain back valve.
I have an 02 f250 230,000, first 7.3. I've owned it since Oct and put less than 6,000 miles on it. I have another cold crank no start. New glow plugs and Glow plug relay last weekend. Worked fine that weekend. It sat all week, then crank no start fri night, it was like 70 degrees for the high that day. Plugged it in over night and it started. Did not fire right up cranked it for a couple seconds. I drove it all day, started every time. Valve covers have 5,000 miles on them. Fuel Filter heater fuse not blown. But don't know how to check it for sure. And don't know where to go with it from here. Getting frustrated with crank no starts. No troubles found.
View 2 Replies2003 Ford 7.3 E450 ... Just recently got Auto Enginuity Ford enhanced
The problem....The van will run when plugged in for 2 hours or on either. Once started the van runs good. It will not start on its own even at 60 degrees
I got the following codes
KOER (Key On Engine Running)
P0476 Exhaust pressure control valve range/performance
P0673 Cylinder 3 glow plug circuit
KOER (Key On Engine Running) Cylinder Contribution
P0278 Cylinder 6 injector circuit contribution / balance fault
KOEO (Key On Engine Off)
P0113 Intake Air Temp Circuit High Input
KOEO Buzz Test (Key on Engine Off Buzz test)
successful
I just started having a cold start problem with my '02 Excursion this fall and I'm at my wit's end trying to fix it. Truck starts fine above about 45 degrees and when it's warm. If I plug in the block heater it also starts fine in the cold. If it's not too cold I can eventually get it started by continuing to crank it. It blows white smoke while cranking and for a few seconds after it finally turns over. Smells like fuel. Runs rough for 30 sec after starting when it finally turns over. Definitely seems like glow plugs aren't working. This truck started no problem on GPs alone without plugging in down to -20 deg F before this year.
I started by cleaning all battery connections, including the two ground posts on the engine block, I replaced one bad battery (diagnosed by Autozone; other one was OK), I checked the resistance of the glow plugs (only a few years old with about 30k miles on them) through the connectors on the GP control module (all were about 1 ohm), and confirmed 12V at the power pins in the GP control module connectors. I then replaced the GP control module and the problem is still present. Battery voltage drops from about 12.6 V before I start the GP cycle to about 12V when I turn the key to "ON" and the GP light comes on. How much should the voltage drop when the GPs are on? What the heck else could be wrong??