In the morning when I start the car it idles rough, revving up and down from stable to almost dies from no gas but after 10 minutes of driving car runs fine ... BMW 530i 5 speed with 150K miles ....
View 2 RepliesLately, I have noticed the idle on the R to be a little lower than normal and it is fluctuating with the AC on. The plugs were done about a year and 10,000 miles ago with OEM NGK iridium, along with the rest of the 80,000 mile maintenance items. I have no engine faults and religiously use Shell 93. The engine has the UM ECU/DSG [spark cut] tune with Milltek engine-back exhaust [no cats/resonator]. Is there something that I am missing that may be the culprit? I need to pull the plugs and check them because with any idle issue I usually suspect plugs but have never had an issue with plugs failing this soon.
Related topic; what spark plugs are people having good luck with the UM combo tune?
Cars turns off while driving and may or may not start. The voltage fluctuates and dims the lights and such. Now it wont start.
The battery is good. The alternator is good. I put a new computer in it. I don't know what else to do.
On top of this awesomeness, I found this relay/sensor that seems to go nowhere (picture below). There is also a second something or another that you can see in the bottom right quarter (red wire grey attachment underneath cruise control module next to that bundle of wires) that seems to go nowhere. I didn't unplug these.
I have a 2000 Celica GTS that idles a little rough it has 118000 miles on it.. Fluctuates between 500 rpm and about 1100 rpm. Doesnt always do this, usually after ive been driving for a while. I also may have a rod knock, what parts would i need to fix both of these issues? Me and some friends can do the work ourselves, i just need the parts.
View 1 RepliesWhat is MAP and what should it be? Mine is 15.0 KOEO and fluctuates from there to 25.0 or so when driving normally.
View 14 RepliesMy 97 Celica GT runs fine , battery is solid, no fuel delivery issues, timing is good, no backfires, new air filter, but when I have been driving around for like 20 mins and park for 15-20 or so I have trouble starting up, I have to keep trying and eventually it will kick in, but last night when I got home I tested it by letting it sit for about 20 mins and tried to start no dice, tried few times, then after cooling off over night, it started right up today with no problem. I remember a mechanic that was working on it said it could be a IC chip that could be overheating, I'm also concerned that it could be an engine or ignition component that is overheating and once it cools it's easy to start.
View 5 RepliesI have had my 2011 Elantra limited since April. I always have the ECO mode turned on. The light fluctuates when driving as I excepted to. I know the actual mode/light doesn't really do anything, but in the last months or so, it will light up shortly after starting the car and work normal but then decide to not light and never come back on until the car is restarted. I have checked numerous times and the ECO mode is ON.
View 10 RepliesI'm really bad with cars but I'll try to be as specific as possible.
Car: 2002 VW Jetta
Basically the car will just stall out of nowhere while driving (not stopped at a light), I would say usually about 10-20 minutes after I started driving. After this, when I try to start it, it makes that noise like it is trying to start but the actual ignition doesn't happen. it usually takes me about 15 minutes to start it up again.
In addition to this, when driving, the RPM seems to randomly drop off often, and the car also jerks frequently, especially when I press on the pedal quickly.
Prius a/c start to blow hot air after driving the car for 30 min. In the next day when i start the car, it blowing cold air.
A/C starts to blow warm air if i drive the car more than 30min. look like once the engine heats up its start to blow hot air. What will be the issue?
Only twice i got the VSC and Engine Check light. but it went off after 2 days. i Took it to the auto shop and did a scan, they said its giving lots of code (codes like: C1241, U0073, U0123,U0124, U0126, U0293, U0111) and they have reset the codes. and told if you get warning lights again then they can try.
When car dies driving or idle- will not start for appx 30min after - cranks over immediately like it wants to, but will not actually start for about 30minutes... is this a sensor?
View 3 RepliesI just returned after leaving LS 460 in garage for 5 months. Car & a/c start up fine but after 5 minutes of driving the a/c shuts down & can not be re-started until I shut off the engine. I re-start the car and again after about 5 minutes, the a/c shuts down. All a/c panel lights are off except "outside temperature". In the dashboard console where the outside temperature is normally displayed there is an "E" displayed instead. The coolant fluid level is fine.
View 7 RepliesSo I noticed a few days ago when driving the turbo around that the temperature gauge fluctuates... ALOT. it will warm up to full operating temp, then when driving will go way down, almost to the cold line again and SLOWLY rise up, and when I mean slowly, I mean it takes about an hour or so to get there.
Well today, I changed the oil, there were about 2 qts in there but the car was about 2k overdue. MY BAD! So upon driving around seattle/bellevue/redmond today, noticed the gauge doing the same thing, and I am stumped, IDK why it would be doing this, the car doesn't overheat or anything.
Also, the girlfriend said that when she was driving the car, in the warmer weather, even while moving the temp gauge read almost hot, and the car was telling her to shut it off etc... I seriously am at a lose here.
The other night we noticed the TAIL light was out, but the brake light still worked. Last night we were out with some friends, they said that the TAIL AND BRAKE lights were not working, but ONLY on the drivers side, the passenger side worked as it should, we also noticed that when we hit the brakes, the front drivers corner light comes on and stays on until we take our foot off the brake.
This only happens once or twice a week. After driving the car for 20+ minutes and sitting in the driveway, it will start running hot. I'd say around 230 degrees and it will stay there until I start driving the car again. I made sure the fans work and I also checked the coolant level and both are fine. What could be causing this issue?
View 2 RepliesSo I have had an issue with my Ranger. When the car is cold it's fine. After a while...maybe 20-30 minutes of driving, the clutch will start to stick. No better way to describe it. I will take my foot off and it will stick on its way back. It starts subtle but the this will gradually get worse and eventually the clutch will seize up and I can't press it anymore and the car stalls and I'm stuck. The car cools off and everything will be fine no problem.....but the problem keeps resurfacing.
View 6 RepliesI've read a lot on hear but can't seem to find what I need. I just replaced one of the battery cells. Now when I drive for about 20 min the engine idles high and the energy read out stops charging the hybrid battery. The AC recirculation turns off on its own. I have a few codes. the O2 sensor and cat code. The p3006. I had one cell that i didn't replace that was reading 6.9 volts. I thought that it would charge back up on its own. We went of vacation for 2 weeks and the car didn't get driven. I found out that's not good for an older prius.
View 5 RepliesFourth attempted fix failed. 2 times with "regular" mechanics, once with Kia dealership. My 2006 Kia Optima will drive fine for about 20-30 minutes (last time 18 miles) I'll hit a bump, stop, or turn a corner and then it acts up (engine light comes and goes). I have to drive with my foot on the gas at stops it wont come down from 40mph unless I break, It once wouldn't go past 40 though and I thought it was going to stall out on me. Once shut off, It has trouble starting, but will start.
Shut it off, it runs again fine for the next 10min or more. I have had the crank-shaft sensor replaced three times, (last by dealer for double the cost) New battery just put in a couple of months ago, spark plugs, the throttle body was cleaned, and threw in some high octane gas cleaner in the tank as well.Every time I take it in, they say "it's not acting up right now so we don't know" ....The only other issues that don't seem too important right now are back sway bar and flex pipe.
I've been having an intermittent stall-out problem with my 2003 F250 5.4L (160k miles). The truck has been retired from DD to farm duty, hauling, and towing only. Over the past 9 months, the truck has stalled-out on me 3x while driving. I will be driving along sometimes at highway speed, sometime slower, and everything will die: no PS, lights go on all over the dashboard. It will not restart right away. I have to wait at least 20-30min to restart it and then everything is fine for several weeks and hundreds of miles.
There are no codes and I have been unable for reproduce it/cause it to happen purposely. My mechanic has changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor, and checked the fuel rail pressures. I also checked all the harnesses and fuses, cleaned the battery terminals, looked for vacuum leaks, and gave it a good look-over. The following are new: battery, IAC valve, fuel filter. After searching the forum I also pulled the fuse box and examined the integral fuel pump relay: it and the board looked perfect, no bulges, cracks, discoloration, etc.
My mechanic thinks this is more likely an ignition problem than a fuel delivery problem.
Need this software that would be willing to run a diagnostic on my truck? I replaced all the glow plugs a year ago and the relay a month ago. It idles really rough when it's cold (first start of the day with outside temps even at 90 degrees). It has no power for about 10 minutes. Sounds like an old John Deere 2 cylinder tractor for a few minutes. I have 370K miles on it. After it warms up it runs good. Plugging it in doesn't make a difference. There is no smoke while it is warming up. I have noticed when I accelerate quickly, it blows black smoke (not heavy but when following it you see and smell it).
View 4 RepliesI have a 97 Ford Explorer. I bought it in 07 and it was nice until like 2 years ago when it started to give me doubts. It never died on me,yet, but everyday when I first start it for the day, if I put it in gear right away, it will stay idle for a while and then kick into gear and just jump. I would drive but it keeps kicking off and on until it is warmed up, I guess because it goes away. Oh and also the OD light would come on also. I just need my truck.
View 6 RepliesMy 06 was parked about 2 months and when I first started the truck, the CEL light came on. It idles a couple of minutes and shuts off. It was running very well before it was parked. I put a code reader and the codes are P0607 and P2107.
View 1 RepliesMy 2003 F250 6.0 It started about a month ago and got worse. Let truck idle for 4-5minutes and idle will jump a few hundred rpms. Got worse as it idles and cant figure it out. It eventually died and died once while driving but starred right back up.
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