Bmw - 530 :: Battery Drain For No Apparent Reason
May 20, 2011
I own a 2003 BMW 5301 with the sports ,premium and 'M' package. Of late the battery drains for no apparent reason. This happened a few times 2 months ago and I had the battery and alternator replaced. This has again started happening. The car starts promptly in the morning but refuses to start in the evening when I am ready to leave work. It has to be jump started. This does not happen everyday and the BMW service folks have not been able to figure this out.
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Just had my first battery boost for my year-old Prius 2K10.
This morning I went to start the car, it didn't open the door for me, then I had all troubles in the world turning the key ... And obviously nothing was opening, no lights, nothing.
I had my car boosted. First time they put the booster, I couldn't start the car (everything showed up but starting the car didn't start the conventional motor - the lights were all on). They unplugged it (everything disappeared yet again) and plugged it back in ... Then I could start my car. Of course, everything was reset: time, trip meters, everything.
That's where I noticed my battery indicator was half-full.
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I just recently purchased a 1996 celica GT Hatchback. It had 263K on 235K the timing belt was changed, oil and filter, tire rotation. When I bought the car on the 13 of August it drove and ran well. Drove it home over 45 miles with no issues. Only issue I noticed was that third gear grinded a bit but it's to be expected. Today after it had sat for all that time with the lights on the battery was dead. Jumped the car. cleaned and protected the contacts on the batt. and hooked it all back up. Let it charge for an hour and then drove it to work. On my way to work the engine oil light came on and the car died on my. It has oil and there are no apparent oil leaks. The car is turning over but not starting.
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I have a 2001 Suburban (chevy) 5.3 liter Vortec engine, auto trans 4 wheel drive, fully loaded. As of late I come out in the morning to find a dead battery. this happened before and I disconnected the fuse for the dvd player that was installed aftermarket. some times I have to hit my dashboard to get the dash lights to work, now they dont work at all. sometimes the ride control compressor runs for no apparent reason when the car is off. I replaced the battery 3 years ago and it seemed to solve the problem until now. I replaced the battery with an optima red top yesterday and now the electrical system is going haywire. the ABS light is flashing and the service ride control light is on, the fuel gauge is bouncing back and forth from full to empty. What should I do. I am a fair mechanic but electrical is not my forte.
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I have an 07 Camry and the alarm keeps going off for no apparent reason. Is there anyway to reset the alarm system itself? If so how and what do I need to do? How to do this.
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My 2009 managed to lose 4 quarts of oil over 200 miles today.
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I tried starting my car today and it didn't want to go. I took out the air intake sensor blew at it and plugged it back in and started it, but it didn't sound the same, the muffler wasn't making as much noise as usual and just sounded like the engine wasn't working the same. After that it started normal and i've been driving for about a week, and today it didn't want to start again so i took out the censor did the same but still didn't start so i put down the clutch revved it a couple times and like magic it worked.
I think i need to change the censor but i'm not sure and i don't want to spend money if i don't have to.
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The other day, in sub zero weather I left my radio and lights on as I ran into the store to grab washer fluid. The engine was turned off, but I did leave the radio on for my buddy.... I was in the store for a max of 5 mins. I get back into the car, go to turn it back on...... and nothing.... ZERO juice.... now I've had the radio on before for a much longer period of time without the engine running and have had no problem.
We ended up jumping the car and it started up with no problem. I let it idle for a bit but then all of the light on my dash came on..... I reved the engine a bit and they all went away.
A few days pass and the car starts up with no problem. Then I get stuck sitting in underground parking, so I turn the car off while I wait for the cars to exit the garage... again listening to music with the car off... go to start and nooooo juice! Being that the car is manual I was able to get it rolling and then popped the clutch..
224,000kms and counting.... all OEM
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My wife just had an issue today on her 2009 base sedan. The TPMS came on for no apparent reason. Tire pressure was good all the way around. Cleared the code, which shut off the light, only to have it come back on 20 mi. later. What the cause could be?
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My aunt came to me the other day about her car not starting and I found that the battery was shot and would not accept a jump start so i replaced that and then yesterday it died again with the new battery so naturally, I replaced the alternator. After swapping the alternator I jumped the car ran it for about 20 mins and told her to follow me to grab some food. When she proceeded to back out the car died again!!!
So I tightened the belt on the alternator a little more, jumped it and let it run a little bit. This time I went through all the basic electronics lights blinkers brakes ect except ac and radio. then i back out and pull back in the parking spot and I was thinking pow it's fixed.
So I turn on the A/C and i notice the sound of the RPMs go down which doesn't concern me too much but when I looked at the RPM gauge it was erratic but the engine wasn't fluctuating with it. So I turned the ac off checked the A/C fuses they were fine. Tried turning the A/C on one more time and this time, RPM gauge stops reading all together and the A/C light was flickering very quickly.
I'm not good with the electronic side of the car but I am leaning towards a very bad grounding issue or short. I have no multi-meter so I haven't read any voltages but I am going to see if I can borrow one from my cousin.
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I Have A 2001 Ram 1500 With The 318 5.2 Engine , Oil Pressure Jumps From 40 To 0 For No Apparent Reason, And Then Lifters Began To Tick. Turn Off Truck And Recrank Oil Pressure Returns To 40 Lbs, Rev Up Engine To 2000 Rpm Or Better And Pressure Goes To 0 Instantly. I Have Replaced Sending Unit, Replaced Oil Pump And Pickup, Changed Oil And Filter Using Dodge Filter, Removed Valve Covers And Intake Cleaned Out All Sludge, Tried 3 Different weights Of Oil, Cleaned Oil Passages, Inspected Oil pump Drive Shaft, Pulled Rear Main Cap And Inspected Bearing , Looked Good, Changed Oil And Filter 3 Times , Engine Is Very Clean. Engine Never Has Low Oil Pressure Either 0 Or 40 Lbs Never 10 Or 20. I Have Heard Others Describe This But Never Heard The Answer . Truck Has 70,000 Miles ,runs And Sounds Perfect When Oil Pressure Is At40. It Can Idle At 40 Lbs Hot, Which Leads Me To Believe Bearing Clearances Are Fine.
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I've noticed on a few occasions (maybe 3 or 4 times total) on my 2005 V8 (about 2.5 months old and 2000 miles) that the brakes seem go into "ABS mode" for no apparent reason. No rain and no snow etc. As I depress the brake normally or even lightly it takes over and reacts like I slammed on the brakes. Then everything returns to normal.
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Car wouldn't start on Wednesday so wife had neighbor jump start the car and she took it to the auto store and had the original battery replaced. On Friday, while driving the car, the battery light came on so she took it to the auto store to have the battery checked. When they went out to check it the car wouldn't start, only click. The battery has a full charge and doesn't drop when the key is turned. I pulled the starter and had it checked...it's good. I've checked relays and fuses and am coming up with nothing.
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my '02 Durango is losing oil pressure for no apparent reason. A little background here. The truck has 143,XXX miles on it, I just had the top end apart for the l/s head gasket. Everything went well, and the truck was running fine for about 3 days. Then, for no apparent reason, the oil pressure dropped off. But the weird part is, is it's not staying at zero pressure. It's actually fluctuating. Now before anyone chimes in with a bad oil sensor, you can hear the lifters start to make noise till the pressure comes back up again. Up until the head gasket, the truck had been trouble free for the past 8 years. We bought it with 55,XXX in 2005, and I've always held to 3 mo./3,000 mile oil changes, and bi-annual cooling flushes, as we go EVERYWHERE with this thing.
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A month ago my check engine light came on so, after checking to ensure the gas cap was screwed on correctly, I did what the manual recommended and took my car directly to the dealership. After paying a diagnostics fee and losing my car for an entire day while they ran tests and contacted Toyota, my dealership told me they couldn't find a problem and just reset the indicator.
Within a few days the light came on again but before I had a chance to take it back to the dealership it went off. Now some 3 weeks later it is on again and I'm wondering what to do.
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I have a 2004 Alero that I just bought used about a week ago. Everything has been running fine until 2 days ago..it would not start. I waited a few minutes then it started right up. Today as I am coming up the highway everything dies...ALL power to the car is gone and I coasted into a parking lot. Approximately 15 minutes my husband gets into it and it starts. The code reading machine at O'reilly says I have an evap leak but that it would not cause the car to immediately stall like that.
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I have noticed a significant (15 to 20%) drop-off in mpg in the last 6 months or so. My 2006 prius at 95,000 miles is just short of the warranty on the battery pack. I brought it into the dealership and they ran the routine computer diagnostics and said everything looks good. I fully expected them to tell me that the performance on the battery pack had fallen off, so I was a bit put out. The guy actually got a bit defensive with me when I asked him some further questions about what the criteria are for determining whether the battery back was performing as it is supposed to in order to get the maximum MPGs.
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My wife drives a 2000 passat wagon that's had wacky electrical problems since birth...most common are warning messages for no (apparent) reason -- check engine, brakes, oil, etc...
This morning the car wouldn't start...got it going with a jump and drove it a while to recharge, but when I turned it off, the radio stayed on, as did a fan under the hood and probably other stuff I didn't notice ... I assume this is what caused the battery to die in the first place... I've disconnected it for now but can't keep doing that forever ...
I've seen a lot of Passat electrical problems, I'm guessing alternator, but don't know much about cars.
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In February of this year, I had a new windshield installed. Yesterday when leaving to go to work I noticed the very top part of the windshield on the driver side was cracked in a "x" shape.
I have no clue how this has happened, since I am the only driver of this car and have not had any rocks/debris hit my windshield since this was installed. I took it to the people who did the installation, and the guy looked at it and agreed this was rather odd and there was no evidence of rock or debris in the crack itself. I asked if there was a chance that it was installed incorrectly (maybe a stress crack?) or if the windshield itself may have had some sort of hairline crack prior to the installation. He said that there really is no wrong way to install a windshield and that it had to have been some sort of debris or vandalism--and the windshield was in perfect condition when installed.
I am really leaning towards the idea that this was some sort of installation error. You would think that if this was an act of vandalism, the person would have smashed the whole windshield--or at least somewhere towards the center that would force me to have it replaced. As it is now, you cannot see this crack from the inside of the car. So here are my questions:
Is there a wrong way to install a windshield that could have caused this? Or is the company just leading me on because they don't want to replace it?
If the answer to the above question is yes, should I go back and push for them to replace it?
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My daughter drives a 1996 sunfire 2.2. car started stalling while driving about a year ago. No apparent pattern, would go weeks even months in between. Last summer it became more frequent and noticed it would only do it when engine was warm. After stalling it will restart after what seems to be a cooling down period. Now it does it at idle as well. (Replaced fuel pump and filter) would like a good guess before I start putting money into it.
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I'm at 3,200 miles on my 2010 Santa Fe and all is going well except for the fact that every now and again, the interior windows fog up. And I'm not talking about regular fog...this stuff has earned the nickname of ninja fog because it comes out of nowhere and it's impossible to get rid of. It's only happened twice but it doesn't indicate a fault of the automatic climate control. The first time was my fault. I was behind an old Thunderbird and hit the recirculate button to get the stink out. I passed the 'Bird but forgot to turn it back to fresh. The fog was so heavy that it took running the defrost on full blast for [b]15 MINUTES to clear it.
It happened again tonight but came totally unprovoked. I keep the system on automatic and set between 70 and 74 F and tonight I had it set on Auto at 72 when it happened. I was sitting at a red light and all of a sudden, POOF! There it was. Came literally out of nowhere and after running the defrost on high for the rest of the drive home, even the passenger front window was barely half-clear. I noticed the outside temperature gauge went from 44 to 41 - very quickly so I'm wondering if a quick external temperature loss causes the relatively warm inside of the glass to fog up.
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