Bmw - 530 :: 1994 - Won't Accelerate / CEL Came On?
Aug 22, 2011
My 94 530i cut out while driving, and as I let up on the accelerator, I got just a bit of acceleration back. Stomping on the pedal caused it to cut out, but if I let it go to idle, it would run fine. It doesnt feel like a fuel pump issue, as there would be no acceleration at all, nor a cat clogged because I know what that feels like. If at idle and in neutral, I culd rev it to about 3000 rpm, but in gear it only would rev while letting up on the pedal, but not much. Yes, the check engine light came on as soon as this started, but no scanner is handy - if only my car ran more than 5 mph, I could run and get one!
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Honda Accord 1994 EX
Problem: over past two weeks (around 200 miles) car's acceleration became less and less effective. Need to rev car to higher and higher rpms to accelerate and shift into higher gears. Now it's hard to get up a hill, in 2nd gear at 5000 rpm.
I don't have a compression tester.
-Car starts fine. No pings.
-Exhaust blows fine and no smoke.
-Checked for vacuum hose leaks, none at all.
-Spark plugs look fine, there's no oil in spark plug wells.
-No check engine lights. '
-Oil on oil stick normal color.
But ...
-Recently coolant ran low. But engine temperature never shot up.
-Recently (over 2 weeks) oil went from full to near empty. Oil light didn't go on.Lights on my dash work (abs, brake, etc.)
Given loss of coolant and oil, I though it would be blown gasket. But spark plugs and wells look clean, and there's nothing whitish in oil. Maybe coolant and oil loss are due to running car harder to accelerate.
-If cat was clogged, would exhaust blow well? If I drill hole in front of cat, will it run normal? (don't worry, I'll get it changed, or fix it.)
-If fuel pump the problem, wouldn't I hear it on start up?
-If battery and/or battery cable bad, wouldn't car have trouble starting and revving up?
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We have a 1994 Grand Marquis. Sometimes when driving the check engine light comes on and suddenly she doesn't want to accelerate very fast at all. If you do try to hit the gas, it sounds like the engine speeds up but there is no change in acceleration. It is also hard to get to/over 50mph. If you pull over and rev the engine a few times (slowly) there is an audible click from somewhere inside the engine. It will happen a few times and then the car seems fine. Inevitably the issue will come back a some miles down the road.It doesn't get driven every day and so far we have not had the light come on when we are near anyone that can read the error. Also, it resets and is not on if you turn the car on and off, even if the problem persists. It only comes on while driving (though it will stay on if put into park and left running). Oh, and possibly related, it seems that the air that is put out form the defroster is very damp when this happens (sometimes).
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(1994 Volvo 850 2.4L L5 Base) whenever i accelerate i get high RPM's but now actual acceleration. i cleaned the MAF and it worked for a short time then it began happening again. so i ran the codes and i got back A1- 121, 131. A2- 121, 121. A3- 141, 142, 213, 214, 311, 312. A6- 131.
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Alright, car's overheating, but generally not at under ~55mph or so. When I hit the highway and accelerate, the thermostat climbs and hovers 3/4s of the way to red. But only sometimes. Sometimes, often when I'm going down a hill, it will swings down to normal. Once it's gotten hot, if I take it off the highway and am idling or driving in the 15-40mph range, the temp gauge will spike. But only sometimes. Sometimes I'll hear the fans kick in while it's idling/overheating. The temperature will go back to normal, and then rise again and stay there or spike (seemingly randomly). It's never reached all the way to the red, but it toes the line. And I take the darn thing into the shop and it refuses to overheat.
I've taken the radiator reservoir out and there seems to be green fluid (antifreeze/coolant?) in the water (have flushed it repeatedly)...and over the course of several weeks, the water level itself will go down. Both fans and the thermostat have been replaced in the last 6 months. Additionally, the timing belt and serpentine belt have been replaced within 5 months, as have affected pistons.((S/N--RPMs are really....low? ~2500 @ 75mph? but don't seem to correlate w/temperature. would they effect it?)
I took it into my shop and they said "we ran all the tests and couldn't find anything wrong." Cool? I'm at a loss..
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When I accelerate above 2000 RPM, a rattling noise (almost like when a kettle is sitting atop the stove and the water is boiling) comes from under the hood. The sound does not get louder as I accelerate above 2000 RPM (i.e. the sound is constant as long as the engine is above 2000 RPM). I took it to the mechanic, he said that the serpentine belt assembly needed tightening but that did nothing to eliminate the sound. I'm concerned it might be my timing chain. As soon as the engine decelerates below 2000 RPM (say when I put the car in neutral) the noise disappears. It is a 1994 Saturn SL2, manual transmission.
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If I hop in my truck right now (1994 3.0 ford ranger 5 speed) as soon as i accelerate half pedal or more it'll bog down really bad. Usually in second gear it does it the most and ill shift to third gear and it still jerks and has trouble accelerating. If I let the car sit for 10 minutes and then go drive it it'll jerk and bog down a little bit but no where near as much. usually only does it for the first couple minutes of driving then goes back to normal. I also noticed that my temperature gauge is always right before NORMAL. Also I'll have to give it a little more gas right before i go to drive or it'll want to stall but as soon as i get into driving it, it acts perfectly fine.
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I am currently having an issue with my 1994 volvo 850 where the key wont turn anymore?
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Been doing a lot of repair's on our 1994 Chevy blazer. It's a 4.3 v6. We finally got her running and now it seems like it can't take high speeds for very long without over heating and eventually smoking some. Had to bypass heater core, it's clogged. That worked with temp. Also replaced radiator and cap. Replaced both heads, took thermostat out. That worked with temp too. It has a new water pump, new exhaust manifolds, has good spark plugs, oil changed and oil filter. Kind of at a loss.
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My reverse lights do not come on when I put my truck in reverse. I got out my multi meter and there was voltage at the switch, so I put a jumper in the connector and the lights lit up.
Thinking it was a bad switch so I replaced the switch, still no lights. So the big question is : what to take apart to find whatever it is that pushes the switch.
The truck details are : 1994 GMC K1500 350TBI 5 speed, the reverse light switch is on the drivers side of the transmission.
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I've got a1994 dodge ram 1500 with a 318 cam bearings are good new oil pump new oil pump drive pin getting oil to the filter and that's as far as it gets no oil pressure and no oil to the top end? Me and a couple engine builders are stumped!
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94 celica GT 2.2 federal automatic, doesn't want to run, coughing, stalling, rpm gauge jumps eratically up down.
Computer says one code only, #12. Regarding Haynes manual it's distributor circuit or Igniter. When engine stops rotating (ignition still on), many times there is noise from distributor cap, like zzzzz....
System keeps shooting spark between distributor cap and rotor and there will be spark on that same spark plug !!!!!!
What's wrong? Distributor or Ignitor ??
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I bought an as is 1994 Saturn sw2 and the blinkers aren't working. I already changed the fuse, and the bulbs come on with the head lights. I am not sure what else I could try.
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I have a problem with my 1994 Volvo 940 GL. When I turn on the headlights (light knob pointing to the right) the headlights do not come on, the rear lights aren't on, the dashboard lighting turns off, etc... I don't know about the brake lights, i bet they work fine...
What's odd is that if i set the knob to the middle (pointing up), the rear lights come on, dashboard lighting works, and front-side lights come on as usual. In order to drive at night, I have to set the knob to the middle, and hold down the brights (which work fine).
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I have a 1994 Toyota Corolla, automatic transmission. I went to start it this afternoon and it made a clicking sound a few times then went completely dead. When I jumped it, the dashboard panels, radio, lights, doors, etc. began to work, but it still would not start. I have replaced the alternator about 1.5 yrs ago and had the battery checked then too (it was fine then). I have had this problem before about a year ago, but it did start when jumped. I didn't leave my lights on or any doors open, so I don't think I drained the battery.
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My son has a 1994 Celica GT with the 2.2 5S-FE engine. Recently told me his heat didn't work very well, he had mentioned it last year but due to extreme cold we've been having I decided I would look at it for him. So anyway, I started by pulling the thermostat thinking it was probably stuck open or possibly someone had removed it completely, well there was one in there and it was closed so I tested it in boiling water, worked fine, replaced it anyway.
So then I checked behind and under the dash, thinking maybe something was opening or closing completely, but they are connected and operating, when I move the controls inside I can hear the doors moving and closing and all the linkages under the dash are connected and operating. Still no heat, so I figured the heater core was clogged since the return hose didn't seem to be getting hot, or the heater control valve was bad, pulled the heater core hoses, checked the heater control valve, control valve worked fine and was not plugged. Flushed the heater core, nice clean antifreeze, I then checked it with air, manual said put 6 psi on the input and make sure it was coming out of the return, which it was.
Reconnected everything, bled the air, still nothing, took the hoses off and connected the return hose to the heater control valve, bypassing the heater core, both hoses got hot. Sure seemed like a clogged heater core, did the air test again with 2 psi, still made its way out the return side. Reconnected everything again, still same issue, return hose never got hot. So while it was running hot with thermostat open, I removed the return hose, nothing coming out of the core, then I revved the engine and it started coming out, reconnected it and ran car at 3000 RPM, finally a little heat out of the vent, about 115 degrees by thermometer placed in vent, as soon as I let it idle the temp fell back to 80 within a minute or so.
Now I figured the water pump impeller was worn/corroded or was slipping on the shaft, so I pulled the whole thing apart. ( I should mention that the entire cooling system is very clean I don't see any corrosion anywhere) Any of you that have done this knows what a pain in the butt the whole job is, anyway, when I got it apart I was surprised to see that the impeller looked like new and was definitely NOT slipping on the shaft... what the heck???
When I took the pump off the housing I noticed the housing had a lot of wear, it look as if the previous owner let the water pump fail to the point that the bearing wore enough that the impeller ground down the raised boss inside the housing, I though AH-HA, this has got to be the problem, water is not actually pumping/circulating inside the pump as efficiently as it should, hence the reason I only get coolant into the heater core at high RPM. So i replaced the housing, the water pump, and while I was in there I did all the oil seals, and the timing belt. Well I got it all back together, fired it up added coolant, let the engine come up to temp, bled air, still NO HEAT!
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My 1994 Toyota Corolla wagon has a problem. I drove to work, all seemed fine. I jumped in it in the afternoon, and my key won't go in the ignition - it gets half way in, and that's it. It feels like the key is bumping into something into the ignition lock cylinder. In the interest of full disclosure, I've sprayed some WD-40 into the lock cylinder, thinking maybe the pins were jammed. If that is the case, it hasn't worked. Zero improvement. This originally happened when it was really cold out, so I've waited and tried it again on a warm (40 degree) day - no change (though my door lock and ignition have been more stubborn in the cold in the past, but only marginally so). So, what are my options? I guess you can't (easily) replace the lock cylinder without the key in the "on" or "acc" position (which I obviously cannot do). I'm not opposed to using a screwdriver as the key, or hot-wiring the car, but don't want to take drastic (or stupid) steps before being sure I don't have other choices..
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I have a 1994 Chevy S10 truck. I been having some problems with it.I was having transmission issues with it (I posted on that one before) , but now it has started leaking oil and I would like to know why. The color of the oil in the oil leak is dark brown and oil gauge is giving me odd readings. For example, when I start the truck the oil gauge says it is half full (40), but it warms up and I am in stop and go traffic it drops to 20. But, If I step on the gas the reading goes back to 40 again for a while and then drops back down again. I thinking about just getting a different truck because this one is becoming a pain to fix, but I would still like to know what could be wrong with it.
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I have a 1994 Saturn SL and ever since I bought it a few years ago it has been overheating in traffic but does just fine when I am driving without the stop and go. About a year ago 2 of the cylinders blew and I had to spend $700 to replace the now shot motor with a rebuilt one. Well the engine still heats up. I tried replacing the cooling sensor a few weeks ago and still no change. It really sucks because the only thing that keeps it from totally overheating is if I put the heater on full blast. And considering it's almost summer I really want to get this thing fixed. Using the A/C only makes it overheat worse, and will make my engine stop if I keep it running while stopped for a few minutes at a time like at a stop light.
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I have a Mazda MX3 V6 it's a 1994, anyways the cars starts and runs fine, you can rev it up and it don't stall sputter or anything, but as soon as you put it in gear it dies, just seeing what may be going on with it. Also I just put a new IAC vavle on the car. don't think that has anything to do with it, but this is the 1st time I have ever worked on a mazda, and just as a side note, the car ran good for about 2 days after the install of the IAC.
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My son has a 94 Escort which is having some starting issues. On occasion when he's been out and about it won't start. He's checked under the hood, then tries it again, and it usually starts right up.
However, today the issue has changed. It wouldn't start until he put the car in N. From research, this sounds like a neutral sensor.
But to put a little twist in, sometimes it will start in P, but at times it will chug until he puts it in gear, where it runs fine. Could that be another symptom of the neutral sensor, or does it sound like two different issues.
I tried it when he got home and noticed the chugging on starting in P, and fine starting when in N.
No CEL or other warning lights. This happens with warm re-starts. It had new plugs and wires put in about a year ago.
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