Bmw - 330 :: Possible To Spray Fuel Into Air Intake?
Oct 10, 2016
I just wanted to make sure. I'm using starter fluid which I heard causes a bigger explosion and can damage piston rings and whatnot so I figured can I just spray some gasoline into the air intake?
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My 1986 Ranger 2.9 starts only when I spray starter fluid into the air intake. It does stay running and it drives fine. The engine will not fire up unless I do this process. I have cleaned out the fuel rail, fuel injectors, purchased new fuel filter, and tested fuel pressure (which is good).
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I have a 2000 Pontiac Bonneville ssei (Supercharged) 3.8L V-6. I had a issue with the fuel injectors now that problem is fixed. I can't get the car to start on it's own. I and a auto garage have replaced the MAF,MAP,Camshaft Pos Sensor, Crankshaft POS Sensor, FPR, ICM, IAC, Someone had the TPS in wrong and I was missing 5 volts at pin B of the TPS. I corrected that and now it's ok. The engine cranks but it will not start on it's own, I have about 54 psi on the fuel rail.
The ECM was replaced by the dealer before i fixed the fuel injector problem but that did not work so the original is back in place. The car runs like a top after I shoot some starting spray down the intake and will run until I shut it off. I try to restart it and it won't start until I spray it again. I am very careful not to spray on the MAF sensor. Even with that being said I use Electronic spray cleaner to start it. All Sensor wires have been checked with the exception of the crankshaft position sensor which I'm going to do today going to the icm.
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I have a 1989 GMC suburban V8 350 5.7l that will not start. I have replace the following fuel pump and sending unit, fuel pump relay, ECM computer brand new, new fuel filter. When I go to start it the fuel injectors dont spray fuel into the combustion chambers verified fuel injectors still work by bypassing them and they spray fuel. Fuse's are not blown. I have been told the oil pressure switch might be bad but I'm at my end of sanity on this.
Additional Details : Tried spraying fuel into the throttle body and still no fire, ignition module and ignition coil where replaced 15,000miles ago.
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I have a 1994 Ford 460 motorhome with a intank fuel pump that quits when it gets hot. so I was thing of butting a heavy duty in line pump on and just pull it through the old pump can this be done safely. Or is it best to drop the tank and just put a new fuel pump in.
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So I have a 2000 Echo with about 129k miles on it. I parked it in my driveway for the winter to drive my SUV in the snow (I live in Wisconsin).
After a couple months of the bite of the gas mileage difference I dug her out and noticed that the drivers side rear wheel was locked up. I presumed it was simply due to it sitting in snow for a long while. So I jacked up the rear, popped the tire off and WHAM, a rusted through pipe falls flat on the floor of my garage.
I trace it back to a port right behind the fuel intake - tho not the main intake line itself. I then find its other half, still connected via rubber tubing to a black hub of sorts.
Here are some pictures with a vision of what I am talking about:
The entire hose in two pieces:
The port where the hose was connected by the fuel intake:
The port on the hub where the rubber sided other half of the hose connects:
The hose pieces side by side on the trunk of the car for scale:
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I'm getting oil and fuel into the intake manifold every couple hundred miles. Oil level is in the middle of low and full mark. It's not like it's a huge amount of oil and fuel in the intake but it's enough to make the car misfire, bog out. Only codes I'm getting are misfire codes for all cylinder and reduce engine power code (forgot what code it actually is) but that's when the car completely shuts down and won't start with red triangle light. If I clean the intake out and unplug the battery for a few min I'm able to start the car again, but it will run really rough and white smoke will start to come out the exhaust (gas smell). I'm wondering if a bad maf would cause this. I've already cleaned it but still doing same thing. Don't really know what the specs or reading the bad is suppose to be so I'm kinda stuck to determined if I need a maf or not. Cars got about 242K miles.
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I have the MK5 wiper arm on my hatch. Has worked flawlessly for years. Recently though the spray nozzle doesn't point up anymore. It moves (partially) along with the wiper arm and the juice isn't going where it needs to. Namely straight up!
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I bought this used Dodge Ram pickup. It looks like there were a few scratches in the paint and somebody hit it with some spray paint. It doesn't look horrible, but it would sure be nice to have a nice shiny uniform finish to it. I hit it with some rubbing compound and a lot of elbow grease. There is nice looking paint underneath. I just wonder is there a faster way to take that spray paint off? I'll be at it with a month with the rubbing compound. Maybe a fine sandpaper? I just don't want to damage the factory paint.
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I was in the car wash the other day and got sprayed by a little bit of water that came in from the moon roof. When I went through the blower, I put may hand up and felt the air blowing in. Is there any way to adjust the unit so it closes or maybe replace the felt seal that is on the perimeter. Since I live in AZ, its not a a major deal, but it is annoying none the less. Let me know what you think.
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This is my first car (09 le, 39k miles,"certified" used). Now this might sound stupid but a little while ago I was cleaning the engine bay and noticed i had some coolant spray all over my hood, I thought i had a cracked house but couldn't find anything, I also installed a trd radiator cap but I still have some coolant spray. is this normal?
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I just purchased an 07 Camry LE. The dealer was sloppy in detailing it, and while spraying the dash, got fluid behind the radio lens, which now has run marks on the back. I need to remove the radio lens safely, The lens moves around a bit, so I think it should be able to be removed.
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I purchased a used 2005 Elantra two weeks ago. In the last two days, it began spraying oil at high RPMs. The oil pools on top of the transaxle (driver-side engine compartment), and down the front of the engine onto the exhaust manifold, giving burning smell and smoke. Trying to find where it was coming from, I cleaned everything thoroughly, but I can't locate the leak/spray. If I drive under 3500 RPM, no oil sprays or accumulates. Over that, it does. Oil filter was tight (first thing I checked), can't find any obviously loose fittings or bolts. Where this may be coming from, or should I just bite the bullet and go to the dealer for diagnosis?
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I have a 2006 Prius and the rear hatch washer fluid sprayer does not spray (wipers work fine). The front window fluid sprayer works fine and I'm told that they work off of the same motor/fuse and reservoir.
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My windshield wiper spray doesn't work. The juice just kind of sputters out, it doesn't shoot out. The tank is full, and the rear-window wiper nozzle works fine. What are some things I can do to troubleshoot this?
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When I press the lever to spray washer fluid on the windshield none comes out. I hear the motor and the wipers work.
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Troubleshooting the wiper fluid spray system in my 2007 Prius. So today, after the big winter storm here in New York, I had to go out and run some errands. Everything was working fine, used the wiper fluid spray a few times during my drive to keep my windshield clear. When I was about to get home, I tried to spray the windshield one last time, but no fluid came out. Also tried the rear sprayer and no fluid came out of there either. The first thing I did when I get home is to check the wiper fluid reservoir, and there is plenty of wiper fluid in there.
I can hear the pumps whirr when I tried to activate the wiper fluid spray, (tried both front and back, both have the pump whirring sounds), but no fluids sprayed out.
I'm thinking maybe something got clogged in the wiper fluid spraying system somewhere. Is this something I can try to fix myself?
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So I have a 91 Celica 1.6L and the problem Im having is that it does not want to turn on with just the key. If I spray Starting Fluid into the throttle body then turn the key, it'll turn on and stay on and even drive without any hesitation. I did the diagnosis test with the jumper wire and the codes I got were :
Code 22: Water Temperature Sensor Circuit Fault (New Sensor)
Code24: Intake air temperature signal fault
Code 32: Air flow meter circuit or vacuum sensor signal fault
I never owned a toyota prior to this so I don't know where to start looking for a solution.
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I have an '08 Lux wagon with rain sensing wipers and automatic headlights. When I spray the windshield with washer fluid, the wipers don't come on to wipe it away. This occurred today, and the wipers would not activate no matter what position I put the control stalk in. Then, after a few seconds, they came on and cleared the windshield. I have not noticed any other issues with the wipers. What might be going on here?
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Okay so I have a 2004 Dodge Ram Hemi, the truck was running fine all this weekend and was fine this morning. Went out at lunch and used the automatic starter button while walking to it and wouldn't start. It turn over and wants to start you can hear it trying to catch but it won't catch unless you put some starter fluid in. Just changed all 16 spark plugs, all 8 coil packs, wires and 2 valve springs about 2 weeks ago have been running fine since and now this. What it could be?
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I have a 2005 Elantra and the fluid will not spray onto the windshield. The washer motor is good and the switch is new. What is the problem? Wipers work fine.
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