Bmw - 330 :: Idle Control Valve Bolt Seems To Be Stripped
Oct 29, 2016
I'm removing my idle control valve to clean it. Everything went well until I'm at the last T40 bolt holding it. I go to insert my T40 bolt it doesn't seem to go in. So I'm like oh I guess it was switched to a smaller T so I put a T30 and it's to loose so I'm like aww cmon. Here are 2 pictures (not the best I know) of the bolt in question.
Is it actually stripped or it's some kind of other bolt? I tried a allen but it seems to slip to. If the bolt is stripped.
View 19 Replies
Advertisement
I have a problem my slave cylinder went out on my f150 so my buddy and I decided we were going to fix the problem. But while I was in there I figured I would replace the clutch, pressure plate, bearing, rear seal, and obviously the cylinder. When I was putting the flywheel on the "first time" i must have stripped out 3 holes because of not having the flywheel properly aligned. So I tapped out the holes to clean up threads and when we finally aligned the flywheel on the crank to right position I went to go torque down all the bolts three of the bolts would just keep on spinning in the hole. Now keep in mind I replaced all the old bolts with brand new ones from the dealer. What can I do to fix this problem I need my truck back asap!!! Can I go to a longer bolt to hit good threads or what do I do? I'm worried about my motor going out of balance if I mess something up here!!!
View 6 Replies
I have a 1997 f150 4x4 and i got some new shocks for it, but I got the top nut off but the bottom bolt is almost stripped, so I am gonna buy new bolts and remove the old ones, so my question is what size bolt do I need ? I am assuming grade 8 but what length and diameter? and whats the best to remove the old bolt if it completely strips ? grinder ? drill?
View 5 Replies
Ive got a 89 Ford F250 four wheel drive with a 460. Ive had an exhaust leak coming from the driver side, i already installed new manifold gaskets but just the driver side i could still hear a leak but on one of the exhaust ports towards the front there's a stripped bolt, is there any kind of tool of some sort were i can extract that. i barely have room with the power steering hose and steering shaft in the way.
View 3 Replies
The check engine light came on yesterday. 2004 with 115K. Auto Zone read the codes and they are as follows:
Definition:
Idle Air Control Valve control circuit.
Probable Cause:
Open or short circuit condition.
Poor Electrical Connection
Failed IAC motor
View 11 Replies
I've a 2002 Ford F250 SD with the 5.4 v8. I noticed my truck is missing at aprox 50mph when the truck goes into OD and revving at aprox 1500 rpms. I Changed my spark plugs and cylinder no 6 was fouled. The coil was cracked where the sensor connects to the coil. I used some JB weld to try and repair the crack. My truck is still missing and vibrating at 1500rpms at 50mph. I wonder if I need to replace the cracked coil? my check engine light is not on, but that means nothing.
Also, cylinder no2, I was not able to remove the coil. The bolt is stripped. I just got this truck a few months ago and the previous owner or last person who worked on this truck left me with a stripped coil bolt. Anyway, how do I get this bolt out? I'm afraid to crack the plastic area the retainer bolt threads in to...which is also plastic. I"m not too fond of my ford, at least working on it.
View 14 Replies
As part of my ongoing P1393 troubleshooting, I’ve found that I can’t get the main engine wire harness separated. The big connector by the driver’s side valve cover.
I’ve cranked and cranked in the correct direction, but the plug never separates. I tried a cordless impact wrench and it still doesn’t move. (Edit -- the bolt moves very freely, but it doesn't push out one side (e.g. like removing the PCM) I can't figure out how to separate the two sides.)
Any tips on how to get it separated? Can I cut off the bolt head to get it separated?
View 14 Replies
2016 F250, took out the seats to remove the console and install the jump seat and upon installation I stripped the bold housing for the front left corner of the drivers seat. Now it won't tighten up. Am i going to have to tap the hole and get a bigger bolt now?
View 12 Replies
After its 2.3 liter engine is warmed up, our '87 Ranger has intermittent problems of idle dropping to nearly dying altogether and then overcompensating to recover. Normally, after throttling up to 1500rpm or so, it will idle steady for 15 or 20 seconds then start the process again.
After normal tuneup part replacements (i.e. plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filters=there are 2), I spent over $100 on replacing O2, throttle position and EGR sensors but symptoms still occur. Was advised to consider replacing the Mass Air Flow sensor but that part doesn't exist for the '87 model. Was told the equivalent part is "Idle Air Control Valve" at approximately $80.
View 14 Replies
My dodge neon started to accelerate by its self and stays accelerated. My brakes can barely stop it. The check engine light is on. And it says it is a pinched solenoid sensor for the emissions. But to my knowledge that won't cause my car to accelerate like crazy and remain accelerated to 40mp and remains there.
I did some research and i keep coming up with IAC valve (Idle Air Control Valve). Not sure if this is the problem. There could be numerous problems. I am replacing IAC valve this week.
View 3 Replies
I've been having a problem with my car stalling when I brake. It only seems to happen when it's warm outside and I have been running errands and stop for brief periods of time. After about the third stop the car will stall and I have to keep restarting it and keep my foot on the gas. My mechanic seems to think it's the IAC valve. I'm not convinced based on what I've read.
View 7 Replies
What is the location of the idle air control valve by telling me where its at or a picture location?
View 10 Replies
I have been getting a buzzing sound under my hood, usually in cold weather that lasts a few seconds, happens after I go about 1-2 miles from my house, did online research and it might be my IAC valve getting internally dirty.
Could replace it for $50.00, some You Tube videos show people cleaning theirs on other brands of cars, can the Ford IAC valve be cleaned up with a little carb cleaner and cotton swabs?
View 1 Replies
My wife has a stock 03 Passat 1.8t.
1. The car seems to shift too soon from 2nd to 3rd and i can hear the turbo drop pressure. It sounds like a quiet blow off 3 or 4 times when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd.
2. There is a vacuum control valve that sits on top of the air cleaner box and it ticks a lot. it has a electric plug going to it.
3. The car has a rough idle while in drive and sometimes shifts hard. I changed plugs, trans flush and filter change.
I would take the car to a VW dealer but the closest one is about a hour away and my wife needs the car.
View 1 Replies
For the past month or so, my 2002 Kia Sedona has been stalling/dying whenever I stop at lights or signs. We've gotten the alternator fixed, gotten a new battery, replaced the ignition coils, but still have the same problem. A friend of mine says that there is probably an issue with the idle air control valve and suggests I replace it. Looking online, it seems like I can possibly just clean it out, but I don't know where to begin. Where exactly is the IAC valve and is replacing/cleaning it a basic DIY job?
View 8 Replies
When the idle control valve is replaced does the ECU have to relearn the settings?
View 2 Replies
I was loosening the bolt that holds down the number one spark plug wire when it just spun off leaving less than half the bolt in the valve cover. I tried using the grabbit extractor but that did not work.
View 8 Replies
I looked around and couldn't find the specs for the valve cover bolts.. I'm assuming it'll be a pretty low torque like 20 ft-lbs.
This'll be the 2ZR-FE 1.8L engine.
View 7 Replies
The bolt that holds the dipstick on the valve cover. i have tried for ever to get this thing off. soaked it , got a skinny wrench on the nut underneath but think it might be stripped (1/2 inch grinded out a little). going to try and get a set of skinny wrenches tomorrow , mine bent. tried vise grips on top of the bolt and put a box wrench on the nut , and gave it my all. The damn thing won't budge.
Also, any tips on the rest of the valve cover bolts. I had to remove some from inside the fender well but barely got to them. My question is not getting these out but getting them back in. And how the heck to you torque these things??? The bolt i mentioned above is creating problem, and I only have so much time
View 8 Replies
Just got off the boat (offshore boat captain) and my wife has been using my truck while I was gone so it doesn't sit for forever. I made a quick trip to the hardware store for some materials and back to the house. Total drive time was about 20min. Noticed that I had a terrible shake like a weight got thrown off a wheel. When I got home and started looking at my tires I was on the passenger side front tire and noticed oil on the driveway. That's when I saw the drop.
Now I climbed under the truck and looked around and found oil all over the passenger header and starter and basically all down the passenger side of the motor. I popped the hood and and the valley was clean. Then I felt around the passenger valve cover and found a lower valve cover bolt missing. Second from rear on the bottom. My question after that long description is, can one missing bolt cause a leak bad enough to completely clean the oiled areas and start the truck and in about 1 min have clean oil dripping down? If so, when I get a bolt should I go ahead and replace the gasket?
View 4 Replies
My 2000 f350 is leaking oil from a bolt on the passengers side valve cover. it is one of the bolts on top of the valve cover. Can I just remove the bolt and put a rubber washer under it or do I need a new valve cover?
View 2 Replies
