Bmw - 330 :: 2004 - Hard To Start / Sputtering Sound And Only Idling At 200 To 500 Rpms
Dec 22, 2013
I have recently come across a strange problem. Only occurs after car has been turned off and sitting for 1-2 hours. Weather not affecting and sitting overnight, car starts normal and nice.
After the 1-2 hours of sitting, engine will turn over not the 2 or 3 usual times for ignition, but needing 10-12 times to finally start. Then it starts very poorly by making a sputtering sound and only idling at 200-500 rpms, instead of the usual instant 1000 rpms. This is very annoying and a few times the engine has turned over 10-12 times and didn't start at all. When a person starts the car up every 1 to 2 hours, say on a busy errand weekend, it pretty much occurs each time. When my wife uses the car just in the morning for work and at the end of the work day, it is not noticed for some reason....
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backed out of the garage fine later in the day went to put it away started hard would not idle and only rev to 2500 .cleaned map sensor,egg valve tested and it works.cleaned the IAC and that works ,fuel pressure is 58psi. starts hard it would idle now it doesn't dies, no code . with 58psi could the pump still be bad? it has 18 pounds of vacuum. where is the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator on the motor?
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I was told by the dealer it would be over 150 to scan and do a fuel trim on my 02 Explorer, XLT, 4.0, Auto. I can't afford the scan or a garage. I paid 4200 for it and a short time later it starts surging at stop lights then it starts sputtering when idling and taking a while to start. Next it stops accelerating past 2.5k, then works well a bit then stops accelerating past 50 miles an hour. Then it works with an 02 disconnected then starts acting up again. It now either runs normal, wont accelorate past certain ranges, or starts then quits 3 seconds later, unless I unplug the MAF then it runs 15 seconds then stalls. Through all this symptoms come and go. Always banks 1 and 2 lean.
Symptoms
Knock
Rough Idle
Slow Starts
Hesitation
Lag
Stall
Replaced
02 Sensors
Fuel Filter
Injectors
Plugs
Plug Wires
Tested
Maf
TP
Temp Sensor
Cam Sensor
Crank Sensor
All EGR Components
Idle Valve
Coil Pack
For any air leaks.
Fuel pressure 37 or higher
Clean Fuel Pump Strainer
Flow tested pump
Checked air filter
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I have a 2004 Venture with 86K. I got into it yesterday to go to the store and it started fine when I went to leave it was hard to start and would not idle. At that point I noticed a smelly exhaust and the smell of gas. After I got it to start I took it for a quick run down the street It performed fine under hard throttle however when I got back in the driveway It started sputtering again and eventually died. I did a diagnostic test and came up with P0300.
I am not sure where to start with this code. I looked at the plugs and they were black and measured .060 (irid.. plugs). So now I am thinking perhaps the cat is now clogged up or the EGR or the fuel reg or the coil pack etc....
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My '93 Honda Accord has developed a problem with starting and holding its idle. After the car has sat overnight or for several hours, it may be hard to start. (Sometimes it starts right away!)
It can take several minutes to start idling well or it may be fine in seconds. It's all very inconsistent.
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In the first two years of ownership of my Passat, when I would turn the car on during cold days, the rpms would stay at 1500 for a quick 20 seconds until the car got a bit warm and then would drop down to about 800. Recently, when I turn the car on cold days, the rpms drop directly to 900 and below.
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The 93 Cutlass Ciera 3.3 6 cyl. is hard to start..takes like 3 tries to start it...even after changing..oxygen sensor, MAF sensor, coil pack, fuel filter, air filter, good plug wires, crank position sensor, fuel pump, sending unit....if idling low will stall sometimes. Mechanic said it's slow getting spark up just when starting it..not sure why..
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I have a 2007 Ford Ranger Sport with 85000 miles. Just yesterday, it started sputtering while idling, as if I was out of gas, but I'm not. The cabin shakes a bit sporadically with the sputtering sounds. It seemed to go away somewhat when I'm driving, but I could just be confusing it with the bumps in the road. Then, when I'm accelerating, there are occasional pulses in the acceleration. Today, the blinking engine light came on briefly just before I got back home.
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I have a 04 fx4. Was sputtering for awhile. The engine light came on. Now it won't start even with a boost. What it could be has 290 clicks.
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ok,up to yesterday, my wife's car started and ran fine. but we had not driven it in about 3weeks, and it was on empty. well, my kids would listen to the radio and, i think, starting it while we were at work. anyway, they ran it out of gas. so put gas in it, 3gallons, turned the key on and off a couple of times to get a good prime. started it up, died, i figured not enough fuel, yet tried again. started, but started spitting and sputtering and idling really ruff, had to hold to the floor to keep it running. removed the maf. it started and did the same. finally, i held down the gas and brake at the same time, took off to the store, got gas, but it died half way there. got it to the pump, put more gas thinking that's the problem. nope, the same. got it home, but when i let off the gas, it idles like it's not getting fuel and dies. so, any clue what it is? remember, 3 weeks ago it ran fine.
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My 1990 Honda Accord just recently started sputtering and shaking a bit when I reach 1500 rpms, if I'm under that she's fine and if I accelerate passed that she is fine.
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My 95 Jeep GC is a great car, but it is now behaving too strangely to ignore. At about 1200 RPMs, when I'm just lightly hitting the gas, the car starts to have a "sputter" feel to it, like it's running out of gas. Then, after running it on the highway for a couple of hours (I live 2 hours from the nearest city in Alaska) the turning radius practically disappears and there is a horrible clunking noise and feel when I try to make a sharp turn. This goes away after driving it slowly through town for a while. The sputtering only happens at 1200. I've had it at 3 different mechanics, and no one can figure it out. I've emptied the gas tank and filled it with Premium and added 'heat' to it. I've had all the fluids changed out. I see this as two seperate issues, but can not figure out the sputtering thing at all.
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My V8 is "sputtering" between 1000 - 2000 RPMs. Not only can you feel it, but you can see the tachometer bounce up and down as well. No problems accelerating or putting the engine under load - it's only between that RPM range where there seems to be hesitation. The car is not giving any fault codes, and I just recently had all plugs and coils changed. (The car ran great for 2000 miles following the plug and coil change.) It started on a road trip, and I took it to the local dealer. They thought it was bad gas. (I've since run several tank fulls through it...)
My suspicion is a mass air flow meter beginning to go, but until it triggers a fault, I can't say for sure. The dealer wants to check the MAFs values and to do a fuel tank pressure test to see if it's the fuel pump. I do have the Real Driver warranty, but they will not cover investigative costs. I'm not too excited about throwing money to test a bunch of different things.
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2005 5.4L She would have a hard time starting before but after I replaced and fixed everything below she was running really good. Now back to sputtering, taking a long time to start and now not starting at all.
I have replaced; Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, FPDM, Plugs and COP's, FRP Sensor, followed the power wire from the FDPM and found it corroded bad so I replaced it, also changed the ground location on the FDPM, I have checked all the wires from the FDPM to the drivers seat, checked all fuses.
I have power to FPDM and I have the diagram for the plug but how can I test (hotwire) the Fuel Pump without lowering the fuel tank? What should be the voltage coming from the FPDM plug? not sure about pin 1 & 6.
How can I test the FRP sensor? what are the specs for voltage?
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I need fixing my 2003 f350 6.0 diesel, I have been working on this truck for a while and still am having problems, here was the original symptoms:
-Hard start or no start on a sunny day
-Rough idle for 10-15 minutes
-Rough shaking in the low RPMs (35 mph)[/COLOR]
-Slow response from the gas pedal
-boost would only get to 14
My dad and I then did many things to the truck in the shop, those things are:
-Air test and replacement of coupling going into oil branches (next to HPOP)
-Replaced EGR valve (no good)
-Replaced ICP sensor (leaking oil)
-Replaced ICP sensor and IPR valve piggtails (due to frayed wires)
-Cleaned Turbo
-Cut MAP sensor hose and reattached it (spliced on the end)
-New battery
-Performed a bubble test and found two bad injectors on passenger side (injectors #5 and #7)
-Cleaned and lubed tops of injectors
-Replaced O rings and copper crush washers on all injectors
-Replaced nipple cup O rings (tight)
-Blew out injector cups
-Bubble tested after injectors put back in (no more bubbles)
-New FICM, EGR cooler and oil cooler were already installed
-Ohm'd main engine wiring harness (good to go)
-Taped up frayed wires on fan clutch connection
-Increased wire gauge on the positive jumper between both batteries
-Sanded each ground on the batteries and engine, cleaned battery clamps, lithium greased connection points.
-Checked fuel for air (no air)
-Checked fuel psi (85 psi, plenty)
-Oil changed
After doing all of this (diagnosing as we fixed each thing) we now fixed many things including the hard/no start problem. Now, for the first three to five minutes:
-It starts right up
-Runs perfectly, no shake and instant response from the gas pedal and turbo
-Boost goes to 28
-ICP is 800-950 on idle
-IPR is 25-26.9% closed
After five minutes however:
-Starts to shake
-IPR % starts to raise
-Received no response from gas pedal (absolutely no power)
This truck has been torn apart like 8 times and I have to do it on my spare time.
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.I know this post sounds odd but its true. My wife has a 2006 Kia Optima with 197,000 miles and NOTHING has gone wrong. Well almost nothing. We've only had to replace the water pump and windshield wiper motor. We have it the oil changed and fluids checked and topped off before the factory recommendation. We bought the car in 2008 with 15,000 miles. Most of her miles are highway, to and from work.
Now my question. Its starting to sound rough, like its getting louder at higher RPM's. The ride was never smooth but it feels like the suspension is wearing out a bit. Should I risk taking it to a shop, having them look at it and tell me 1,000 that need to be replaced or fixed, or do we just let it ride until the wheels fall off? I feel like the old "if it aint broke, don't fix it" saying applys here. I had a friend tell me I should have really had the timing belt replaced by now. So Im kind of at a loss.
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My mother has a '04 Santa Fe 3.5. Her automobile makes a rattling/grinding sound when around 1000rpms/idle. However, the sound disappears when accelerating and drives like a charm. The sound returns once again around 1000rmps at idle or stop. I have changed the oil pan, replaced oil and filter and even put in a new battery. I'm not an aficionado when it comes to Hyundais (Subaru driver here).Car also has 180k miles.
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I have a 95 Celica ST (so it has the 1.8 7A-FE engine). When the AC is turned on and you rev the engine, when the rpms come back down it almost dies.
So say the engine is idling at 700 rpms with the AC on and I rev it up to 2,000 or something. When the rpms drop back down, instead of stopping at like 700 they go all the way down to like 400 or less and it almost stalls out. After a few seconds it comes back up to 700.
What does that sound like? All the vacuum lines are brand new, the throttle body/intake and egr valve were all completely cleaned of any carbon buildup.
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I have a problem with my 2003 Ford Focus ZTS. It has a 2.0L ZETEC engine and is automatic. I recently replaced the Starter, Alternator, and battery cable because the car was having some current issues. All parts are brand new, non-refurbished. The car cranks fine but is now sputtering. When I drive it, it seems like it has a hard time switching out of first gear and and will hit 3-3500 RPM before the gear shifts.
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I have a 2001 saturn l200 about aweek ago i hard clicking sound coming from my motor. So I change the oil and I put it r and back it up some and then I put in it in d then I lost all power and how it wont start. Someone told me its the timing then I take a look at the chain wen you try to start it the chain jumps up and done.
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I have a 2005 Camry SE V6 with 73000k I just got it out of the body shop yesterday and everything seemed fine. i started the car up a short time ago and it stalled out when attempted to drive away. its idling at 400 rpms? I feel that the guys at the shop disconnected something.
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