Air Conditioner Blower Motor on any speed, lets say high. Running fine while driving. Come to a stop at idle or shift to N or P. A few seconds later the blower begins to vary its speed in pulsating rhythm in what would seem to be in cadence with what would be a rough or varying idle. Where to start? Is it the relay?
2002 BMW 330ci Convertible
Currently My AC / Heat blower motor operates but, speed 1 and 2 are the same, 3 and 4 are fine. I replaced the blower rheostat that is located on the firewall, but still no difference in fan speed.. A few years ago the blower only operated on Hi and the rheostat was the problem then.
View 3 RepliesGranddaughter showed up with her '02 Accent idle varying between 600 and 2500 rpm. Disconnected Idle Speed Control Actuator and engine runs at very high idle so apparently the ECM is unsuccessfully attempting to manage the idle and the ISC is functioning. Reading P0507 code. Checked for vacuum leaks beyond throttle body, found none.
The car was involved in a fender bender accident a couple days before the idle issue. No CEL until a couple days after the accident. The varying idle started many days after the CEL.
The wreak cut a half dozen wires in the area outside of the battery. She repaired them and I just finished redoing with solder and shrink wrap. Found no faults with her twist and tape repairs or any other damage to wiring. Varying idle still there.
I have an '02 F150 XL. 200k miles. My a/c blows cold, and I have every fan speed, but it just doesn't blow very hard. I replaced the blower motor thinking that would work, but that did nothing. I've been told to clean the evaporator core, but I don't know where that is. How to do that, as well as any other part causing the problem.
View 14 RepliesI have a 99 Olds Intrigue GLS. Going on 163k miles. She has been pretty good with the common fixes for this model. I decided to replace my upper and lower Coolant Hoses before I took a long trip. Everything went OK until I tried to use my AC later that day.
During my Coolant change out I did indeed start the car multiple times and eventually I disconnected the battery to reach a hose.
Now, when I turn on the AC, the Blower motor does not directly respond to my dash board speed control. The little bars indicating higher speed changes up and down as normal, but the blower doesn't change with it. Also, I can SOMETIMES get it to change speeds by turning the speed all the way up then back down a few clicks etc...Currently, when I turn on the car the AC does kick in under the hood, but the blower stays off.
Something fishy going on. I decided to disconnect the battery again and see if anything "reset". No Luck. I think it coincidental that it happened during my Coolant change out...
I have google it looked all over was told it was under the hood next to the fan even shown a photo when I went under the hood right were the resistor was in the photo there was a long black box about 4 inches long and 2 inches wide. looked nothing like the photo.
So I went back on line and read that its above the passengers feet you take a few screws off after you take the glove box off and it should be there. Well after taking 8 screws off I find nothing but a coil behind there. Nothing that looked like a resistor.
2006 f350 diesel?
I bought my youngest daughter a used 2009 Ford Escape (out of warranty) a week ago. Manual HVAC controls, 3.0 V6, AWD, 73K miles. The HVAC blower motor do not seem to move any air on speed 1 and 2. However speeds 3 and 4 appear to operate normally. Speed 4 noticeably puts out more volume of air then 3. Each 3 and 4 operator what seems to be normal speeds for their setting.
I would normally suspect resistor but my experience is usually that you have all or nothing not it's partially working like this is. I don't mind throwing a new resistor in there and trying it but I rather come up with a better way of troubleshooting it then throw parts at it.
101,400 miles on car. Started noticing about 2 weeks ago, at idle, and as pickup up speed, a whining noise coming from the engine bay. It has gotten a little worse, so I started trouble shooting.
Basically, at idle, its somewhat annoying, but as you hit 20-30mph it can be more annoying if the radio is off or at low level. If Im sitting there in park, and its whining away, all it takes is me cutting the A/C knob to OFF, and then quiet as a mouse.
So, other than the compressor going bad, I can't see anything else related? I always hate when AC problems show up, they are never cheap....
My blower motor does not blow hard on high. 2009 AVALON.
View 3 RepliesI recently bought a 96 ranger.I noticed the fan did not work but for high. I search the internet and found how to remove it and discovered a mouse nest(village) which basically took over the housing where the evaportor core,blower motor resides. I bought a chilton but cannot remove the housing around the core so I cleaned it the best I could(air compressor and vacuum and disinfectant)...
I had to buy a new blower motor and resistor. However, I cannot find the hose that attached to the blower motor?-mouse had chewed a hole in the one- I've looked and found serveral differents names for it but seems I cannot find it at my local parts store.
My question is- is this intake hose? vent hose? I'm guessing I will have to go to dealer or, if I know the name I can look it up in a salvage yard?
My 2010 Expedition Limited AC seems to be stuck in the highest fan speed setting. Changing the setting on the panel control do nothing to change the speed. But you can adjust the temp and it will respond. It is a dual control unit. When I try to turn the system to off completely it will go to what I believe is the vents and stay on full blast. If I turn the truck off and on again the whole system remains off until I turn it on again. The only way to turn it completely off is to turn it to off mode and turn the truck off.
View 1 RepliesHave a 2004 F-250 and blower motor speed 3 is not working..replaced resistor pack with Motorcraft part and everything works except position 3 ....
View 6 RepliesI have and 07 F250 and the #2 speed for the blower motor don't work (hasn't since I bought it) I read that the most common cause of this is the resistor under the hood on the firewall so I replaced that and still no 2nd speed??? Where I look next? Motor itself maybe?
View 11 RepliesI replaced the blower motor resistor on a 2010 F150 with dual climate control where the blower was stuck on high.
After replacing the resistor, now the lower speeds work fine, but when placed on high speed, the fan completely shuts down. Replace with the old resistor, and it only runs on high.
How to proceed, or what else might be the problem?
I have a problem on the blower motor and i think its something besides the blower motor going out it works fine most of the time but occasionally it does not come on when this occurs I noticed that the cruise light is flashing in the dash and when this is occurring you can push the on/off switch in the steering wheel and the light does nothing. Now whenever the blower motor works properly everything with the cruise functions properly no light in the dash and when turning on/off switch works properly also no noise coming from blower motor ( bearing ) sounds fine. would a bad BCM cause this or am i looking in wrong direction ???
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer OZ and the problem currently associated with it is that blower motor is running no matter if the key is in the ignition or not.
View 15 RepliesStarted up the 2002 EXP today and thought the fuel pump was failing. Get a consistent thump every 1 second. Later today i looked and noted the noise is coming from drivers rear fender well (i think). I took off the small plastic cover of the rear blower motor and thought it was in that area. Disconnected the motor and still thumps. Disconnected the blower motor resistor block and still thumps. Looked at the overhead consol and the rear blower was on HI. Turned the blower down and as you reduce speed the noise volume is lower. Turned the switch off and i thought the noise was gone. Pulled the cup holder above the fender well looking for a relay or something in that area. I cant isolate the noise but seems to be real close to that area. Later i heard the noise, very faint, and the blower switch was off. Turned it to 1-2-3 and it gets much louder. Turned it off and very slight noise. What am i looking for? My hearing is not accurate enough to find it.
View 2 Replies2002 HD 2500 6.0 - Pulled into Wal-Mart, everything was fine. Came out 20 min later, started right up, but felt like it stalled, it was actually still running, (barely). Shut off, restarted, same. Used pedal to bump idle up to normal 500-600 RPM, it was smooth, no misfire or roughness. Drove home, approx 5 miles, and had to keep the idle up at every stop.
Could be IAC? How can I test it/What checks can I do in the darkness, by flashlight? No garage, but I do have tools, and basic test light, dmm, etc. First thought was fuel pressure, but it runs fine going down the road.
A few weeks ago, the air conditioner in my 06 worked great. I parked the car and went into a store for about an hour. When I turned the car back on, now the blower seems to blow at only about half of what it has since new. The compressor appears to be working properly and the air still gets (almost) ice cold, but the fan speed is significantly lower. Since it's now 100 F+ outside, it takes nearly an hour to really cool the cabin.
It's been about 18 months since my last cabin air filter change, so I'll be changing it this weekend, but I just don't see that causing a sudden and drastic effect on the fan speed. If the fan stopped working altogether, I could see it being a fuse or the fan motor itself, but I'm at a total loss.
Truck (02' , 7.3 ) has check engine light and since I'm on vacation don't have access to my Autoenginuity diagnostic software, so looks like I'll have to go a auto parts outlet to get the code read.
But.... before I do I wanted to get some input from y'all. Basically what happens is the idle goes up while in gear and when I put it in neutral, idle goes back down to normal. In addition I noticed (yesterday) somewhat of a lope or stumble at idle while in gear. No stalling and no effect to fuel mileage.
Since I'm away and away from my tools I'm somewhat limited. Certainly once I get the code I'll know more.
I'm the loving owner of an amazing '02 RSX. She is just about to hit 100K, and has been completely trouble free. This past sunday, I started it up in the morning and immediately noticed a semi-harsh vibration, with high idle speed (1500ish, normal is 500). If I give it gas, the vibration and rumble noise goes away, but if it put it in reverse, it seems to get worse. After a few miles of driving, the idle speed returns to normal and seems to feel/sound fine. Also of note, if i hit a dip in the road, i get a vibration and engine sound that resembles that of a flat tire. I know this sounds random, but it's the best I can do at describing it. There are no check engine lights, temp is fine, and otherwise seems to be driving great. I initially thought bad spark plug or air filter, but have since thought of vacuum pressure or O2 sensor, maybe even an engine bolt break (from the sound it makes driving into a dip). Could this be as simple as getting a bad batch of gas?
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