Bmw - 328 :: Pumping Noise Under The Hood - AC Compressor Failure?
Feb 29, 2012
I have a 2007 BMW 328xi with only 46000 miles. About three weeks ago, I heard some pumping noise under the hood so I drove the car to a repair shop for estimation. I was told that the AC compressor stopped working. When I drove out of the repair shop about 5 miles, the car stopped running and was towed back to that repair store. After the new AC compressor was installed, the car still could not be started. It was then towed to dealership. Now I was told that the AC compressor failure caused engine chain problem, to fix it. Does it make sense? How AC problem can cause engine problem?
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Just got a weird chemical smell on my way back from lunch and the a/c stopped working. Pulled up to the garage and there was a smell of burning under the hood, plus a fairly loud hum, and also these weird noises that sounded like electrical discharges from underneath.
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What could be making the strange pumping sound coming from under my hood after I shut off the truck?? It sounds like a small compressor or pump running.
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95 Bronc with a compressor failure. It sat up about a year and when i put it back on the road the AC Clutch failed so I replaced it in the hopes that maybe it was just a clutch. With the new clutch is made progressively louder racket so I stopped using it until the other day when the new clutch failed (I briefly turned it on).
I think it is time to replace the compressor. In researching the compressors I noticed that there are varied makes so I have a question as to which brand compressor to buy. Here are my options:
O'Reilly - Motorcraft - Assume FS10 - 283.99
Autozone - Ready Aire - FS10 - 235.99
Autozone - Compressor Works - FS10 - 179.99
Autozone - Compressor Works - SD709 - 247.99
Autozone - Denso - FS10 - 259.99
NAPA - Visteon - FS10 - 301.00
NAPA - (unknown) - SD709 - 409.00
ACKITS - Unicla - FS10 - 236.35
Do I get the FS10 or the SD709 (I assume Super Duty)? How can I identify which compressor my Bronc came with from the factory (FS10 or SD709)? I live in Texas so strong cooling is imperative. Should I even consider buying a remanufactured compressor (the ones listed above are all new)?
I typically stay away from getting parts from Autozone because I have found the parts that they sell to generally be of poor quality.
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I'm in the process of replacing the engine in my 97 E-350 Chateau 6.8 v10. The a/c system was in need of attention before my engine exploded at 143,000 miles. The a/c system at that time was showing signs of impending compressor failure. Many parts of my a/c system were removed to facilitate engine swap so it is completely evacuated. I'm replacing the compressor, accumulator, both expansion valves and flushing the rest of the components outside of the vehicle.
I have purchased all the replacement part but have questions on the proper sequences of events replacing the PAG 46 into the system. My a/c system calls for 13oz of oil and 64oz coolant and I did not measure any oil that was lost during removal. I have access to a vacuum pump and a/c gauges. I have been searching the internet yet haven't found a site that deals specifically with my circumstances. I'm eager to learn.
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I was driving our '11 Sonata Limited 2.4 today with wife and infant son... While merging onto a main road, I accelerated to switch lanes without slowing traffic and noticed the car felt oddly underpowered.. I kept my foot on the gas, and a substantial rattle emerged from under the hood so I let off and drove steady on... We made it to our destination and I popped the hood to find oil soaked into the valve cover and head... I checked the oil and the stick was still wet, but since the car was just running I'm not sure the exact level...
Unfortunately, I recognize the noise it made on the road, and I'm 99% certain it spun a rod bearing... In other words, the engine is shot. 63,362 miles, synthetic oil changes every 4k-5k miles, dealer maintained...
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My son just changed my oil, radiator fluid & transmission fluid on my 2007 Prius with 125,000 miles. Now it makes a fairly quiet, intermittent pumping or quiet growling/humming noise. A vibration can be felt near the driver's left foot when the noise is heard. The noise starts about a minute or two after starting the car & goes on & off, about every 30 seconds, for the entire time the car is running or driving. The car seems to drive normally, although I've only driven it a few miles, a few times. The only unusual dash light is the "maintenance required" indicator which has been on since before the fluid changes.
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I've made a video of the pumping sound in that seems to get "stuck on" repeatedly at occasional times while the car is in operation or at idle. What it is and if it should not be going on like this without stopping? The car is a 2004 Canadian model, assuming it has the coolant thermos.
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I have a 1997 Ford Econoline conversion campervan that I don't use very often. I need to open the hood to jump start the battery. Last time I opened the hood I did not notice anything wrong with the hood or the hood release latch inside the cab. Now when I pulled the hood release latch inside the cab, nothing happens to the hood at all (the hood does not open at all).
Is there a way I can open the hood or do I need to tow it to my mechanic?
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My Jeep recently came up with a CEL after pumping gas sometime last week. It happened about an hour after so I did some research and they said one solution could be that my gas cap may be lose or needs replacement. I then removed and made sure the cap was secured properly. After about two days the CEL stopped showing up. I just took my Jeep to an AutoZone and was told that the reader was still detecting the issue.
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe and every time after I pump gas into it it will not start. I try to start it five to six times and it finally starts but chugs and stalls unless I pump the gas. This lasts until I've driven for a few minutes.
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So yeah, heard some noise from underhood about 5 months ago.
Took the car in and had it investigated.
The diagnosis was possibly timing chain.
So, had it torn down, timing chain replaced amongst other small associated things.
Get the car back, and no noise.
About a month later, I'm hearing the same or very similar sound from the same location.
I tried to ignore it.
Too depressing to deal with at the time.
But now I can hear it sitting at idle with the windows down.
Concerned for sure.
Is this a common issue?
I haven't found anything with searches I have done.
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The latch thing that you pull on to pop the hood has broken, any other way to open the hood up?
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Ok so I've got a 92 Cherokee that I have replaced the plugs wires cap and rotor, fuel pump, crankshaft position sensor. I have also tried the idle air control and the throttle position sensor and put a new alternator on it but it will run for a few seconds and then die. If I keep revving it up to bout 3 to 4000 rpm it will stay running if I keep pumping throttle. What else is there I can do? I'm baffled
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I have a 2004 Elantra and recently every time I pump gas, the car doesn't want to start without pumping/hold down the gas pedal. Why is it doing this?
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I have owned this car since she was brand new off the lot in September of 2000. 98% of the time I have had to pump the gas pedal to get her to turn over. When she was under warranty I kept bringing her into the dealership and they kept telling me they couldn't duplicate the problem. Finally a few months ago I had to have my head gasket replaced....basically a top end rebuild. I still have the problem. What this could be? We were maybe thinking faulty fuel injection system but it should have died by now I would think after 11 years.
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Ok I'm new here but I'll keep it simple. Driving around nyc (crazy winter weather lately) car started making a clanking noise every so often from the hood. (note it was getting harder to steer i have awd) Pulled over, it looked fine, kept driving, all of a sudden few blocks later a LOUD metal clashing noise came from under the hood. Pulled over turned the car off. Now the car starts fine, but the car makes that noise every time i shift to Forward/Reverse. Neutral is fine. Tranny went out? The car wont move....
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Just put my car in for it's first year's service(20,000 km). I made an observation to the service tech that during warm weather, there is a noticeable rattling whirring sound.
During testing, they were able to compare my car with another and confirmed the noise to be from the air-con compressor.
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For many months now, I've heard what sounds like some kind of pumping noise. This happens after starting the car and may go from brief to a few minutes. Seems to happen after every cold start and often even when warmed up. Some starts are soundless. I only recently discovered that it's coming from under the hood beneath the relay/fuse box. I can't see where it seems to be coming from.
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A couple days ago my wife could not close the fuel door after pumping. What is the official name of the latch that keeps the fuel door closed? Or better yet, a part number?
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I drive a 2012 GTI w/ a stage 2 unitronic tune. My gas light came on today. Naturally I stopped to get gas. As soon as I began pumping the pump clicked off. It took me like 5 minutes to get one gallon of gas in and fuel started to spill out. What this might be ?
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