Bmw - 328 :: 2013 - Would Auto Start / Stop Reduce Starter Life?
Mar 13, 2013
My 2013 BMW 328i has a fuel-saving feature (as perhaps many other new cars): As soon as you stop at a stop sign or red light, the engine turns itself off automatically, and once you release the brake pedal, it starts again. In a traffic or city driving where you may stop, say, 30 times, the starter works on average 30 times more than a regular car. Of course, the fuel economy may become significant; the car stops running idle for a total of 20+ minutes in each commute. I am concerned that the savings in fuel (and emission) would cost lower life of the starter than a car without this feature. What do you think of this feature?
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I am considering chipping my 1.8T ATW 2000 Passat and was wondering if there is any downside on chipping the engine. like reducing the life of the engine or the turbo or less MPG,
Which company should I go for the best quality and if you wanna share a "best practice" prior and post chipping
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I wonder if having solar panel roof will reduce the life of the battery?
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Noticed auto high beams are coming on too often. When driving down the road, they will almost work and come on way too often. How to reduce this light sensitivity, that would be very useful.
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Just bought a 2013 ES300H after ten Acura's. My car is two and a half years old and wondering how long does the original battery last. On Acura's it is about three years. There was no warning when they went.
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Bought a 2013 Prius V with 3000 miles on it over 1 year. The car has only been driven 1000 miles in the last 7 months or so. I am worried this might not be a good thing for the battery(s)? Is there a Diagnostic test I could request that would determine strength of the batteries? Other hybrid parts?
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My ES 300h is not going to be driven for about 2 months. Will it start right up after that time or will the batteries be dead? How long can it sit idle and still start up again?
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I have a 2013 F350 SRW diesel. What is the expected life of the original batteries?
In the owners manual, (page 319) there is a long process to "reprogram" the computer after a battery replacement. It does mention "E85" and similar gas phrases. The diesel has no such discussion.
Is this reprogram for gas engines only or do I need to do it on my diesel as well?
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What the expected life cycle is for the fold in/out feature of the power mirrors? I garage my truck and need to fold mirrors when backing in and then unfold once out of the garage--looking at 2 in/out cycles per trip from the house. How long until the motor gasps and dies?
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Santa Fe 2013. I bought it a few months ago and soon after a strange issue appeared from time to time. When I push the start/stop button it spins the engine but it wont start no matter how much I wait. Usually it start fine for the second time. This happens sometimes and sometimes not. About 2 months ago it didn't want to start for about 5-10 minutes no matter what I tried (push the button with the tip of the key), so I decided to go to a service station.
There they connected the car to a computer to check if there were any error codes logged. But they haven't find anything, after the second time I visited the station they replaced the battery in the key, told that maybe that was the problem.
I really don't know much about cars but it was a strange idea as I would expect the same behaviour when the battery is low than when the key is not present: Car not doing anything but displaying a message that the key is not present.
Anyway, it kinda worked, or I was lucky. For more than a month everything was fine, not a single issue. And today morning it started again. I brought my car to a hand washing, and after they cleaned the outside with steam they wanted to park the car inside the building to clean the interior, and the same issue occurred. And after that it happened with me as well several times this day.
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I just recently purchased a 2013 Elantra Coupe, and the Engine Start Stop button will not light up anymore. The small LED above the "Engine Start Stop" lettering still lights up blue or amber if it's in ACC or ON mode, but the lettering itself no longer lights up.
I'm not sure if it's supposed to stay lit while driving, but I noticed it started to flicker at various rates, and then eventually it stayed lit. Now, it's not lighting up at all. I'm wondering if there's a fuse anywhere that could be associated with this or anything I could check myself before taking it to the dealer. I haven't had a single issue getting the car to start with the button, just wondering what could be causing the lettering on it to not light up any longer.
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When we first bought our white 2013 GT used (21K kms) it made a slight moaning sound when you would start off from a stop while engaging the clutch. Dealer was able to replicate and diagnosed it as a bad clutch release bearing. Replaced it and moaning sound was gone. Free under warranty. Been fine ever since and car is now at 75k kms.
I just drove our other GT (black 69k kms) for the first time in ages as normally another family member drives it. I immediately noticed the same moaning sound when starting from a stop and releasing the clutch. I'm betting it's the same bearing. Is this a common issue?
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I have a 1968 Beetle that has been sitting for a long time, after working through a list of items for the restart I put a new battery in and turned it over. Starter works fine and turns engine over but when I turn the key off starter will not stop until I disconnect the battery, When I reconnect battery everything is fine again until I try to start and starter keeps going until I disconnect battery again.
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Developed a problem that I'm trying to research a bit to see if there is a common problem. Haven't really seen too much info yet, other than a potential clutch switch that will continue to display "depress clutch!" That's not my problem.
I don't drive this thing more than once a month or so. But occasionally I'll drive it to work for week or less.
Basically, every once in a while I'll try to start the engine and the starter will engage and turn the engine for about 1/2 second and then stop. All lights on the dash stay on. I'll reset the key, and it will usually then start normally on the next try. Sometimes it does the same thing on the second attempt.
Battery is 100% topped up, as it stays on a battery tender. Battery load test shows great. Connections are tight and clean.
The other day I cleaned the main B+ terminal on the starter, made sure the terminal jamb nut was tight and cleaned; then assembled the terminal and torqued. Removed, cleaned and re-torqued the top bolt on the starter. Cleaned and re-tightened the main grounds. Also cleaned the solenoid connection and made sure it fit back on securely.
Was fine for about 6 starts then it did the same thing again.
The last work I did on the car was a clutch upgrade (myself)...literally almost a year ago. I've driven it about...500 or less miles since. So I'd have assumed bad starter connections, but I think I've ruled those out. I didn't drop the subframe, just the transmission. the problem did start pretty much immediately after that job and hadn't done it at all before that job.
So what other interconnects are in the system to control the starter? Relays, control modules, switches, sensors...I'm sure all of the above. Something is allowing the starter to turn for 1/2 second and then drops it.
Perhaps the battery is dropping below voltage while cranking and something is aborting the start?
I haven't really done much diagnosing other than a simple load test on the battery. I haven't taken voltage readings under cranking, voltage drops across wires or voltage readings at terminals yet. Ugh..I really just don't feel like it. Maybe I'll just dump the car into the Pasquotank River.
Not that it really matters, but I've also installed an APR K04, full exhaust, Carbino intake...I don't know what else. But it was all done quite a while ago, by me. This second clutch I've done seems to have been the thing that triggered this particular problem.
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I have a 2003 Honda CRV, 100,000 miles. Recently when I tried to start the car, maybe one out of every 10 times, the starter will "growl" and then stop. After a few attempts, eventually it will be to make a turn or two and the car will start. The other 9 times the starter will crank right away and the car starts, no problem. My wife took the car to the dealer, they tested the battery, the alternator and the starter and said can't find anything wrong. Charged $60 and sent my wife home. I did a test myself for battery (parasitic) drain and can't find anything there neither. During the time when it was hard to crank, the battery measures 12.5 volts. Two days ago the starter was silent when I tried to start the car. Did not even "growl". After ten attempts or so, I finally got it to turn and the car started. During this event, the battery measured 12.5 V and the head light was bright. Works fine since then for these last two days. Is there anything I should try before replacing the starter motor?
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I have 65" Pontiac Catalina, sometimes the ignition does not stop spinning the starter motor, I think it is because the switch is not springing back to run position. If i turn the key back to off it stops but engine stop running too. I am afraid of burning up the starter motor, what do you think could be wrong.also is it just replace the tumbler or the whole ignition housing as well.....
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I have a 2010 F150 with 39,000 miles. This morning the truck started fine. I ran in to get something came back out and the truck had died. I tried to restart it and nothing. When you turn the key forward the starter spins and wont stop until u turn the key off. The truck never tried to fire. The motor tuned over and over but nothing. is there a starter relay? A solenoid?
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Just realised the other day that the back door/seats lights for my car never turn on when i open the back doors. Been like that since i got the car. Owners manual says when the map and room light switch beside map light is in middle position, the lights turn on with doors opening. the map light turns on when i open front doors, but the room lights in the back only turn on if i hit the switch manually but they stay on.
If the back door/ seat lights are supposed to be auto on off with door opening, closing? Or is this a feature that did not come with my model.. I have a Canadian 2013 GLS GT with the panoramic roof so room lights are at the sides of roof.
*Also something completely unrelated, noticed in owners manual the maintenance schedule for replacing spark plugs is 168,000km for normal driving conditions and 'more frequently' for extreme conditions.
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Is there an option for Auto On Headlights for the 2013 GLS?
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I have a 13' GT with an automatic trans and 15,000 miles.
While getting onto the highway yesterday I was in D (not + -) and I was probably in 4th gear and hit the gas pedal maybe 60-70% down and my rpms shot straight to 6-7k but I didn't get any acceleration. I let the rpms drop and it drove fine after. Pretty sure I was smelling burnt clutch too (kind of unfamiliar with that scent, I've never slipped a clutch before).
I should probably take it to the dealer for them to look at it, but am worried it will be a 1-2 week thing and I'm not sure if I'd get a loaner.
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I noticed the heated seats won't turn off. Is that normal? If it's turned on and shows 3 bars it won't slowly go down to off.
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