My son owns a 2000 BMW 328i... sporadically, and without warning, the motor will speed up at idle, going from 600 rpm to 1200 rpm, then down to 700 rpm, then back to 600 rpm. This happens intermittently, when the motor is warmed up...
View 3 RepliesI have recently bought a 04 f250 6.0, and it has the intake thumping noise that varies speed with idle... I was told it could be a broken rocker, a bent push rod, or a broken roller... I am not that much experienced with diesels. I've spoken to the dealership, and they don't wanna fix it, they said it wouldnt hurt it to drive it like that, but the noise bothers the hell out of me, and everyone notices it. so i wanna get it fixed. I am hoping its just a rocker. if it is just a rocker how deep am i in? truck has 240xxx miles on it, and runs perfect other than that noise.
View 7 RepliesMy car is standard 5 speed transmission, when my car is running my idle varys between 800ish to 1500 intermittently within seconds and if I don't drive it after starting the car it will stall on me (in neutral) after the rpms go up and down about 9 times.
The thing I found is if I disconnect my idle air control valve attached to my throttle body it stops the jumps in rpm. I have tried replacing the valve with one of my friends control valve Hyundai accent 2004 that works and fits perfectly on his doesn't work on mine. Right now I have my idle air control valve disconnected at the moment but i want to fix this issue because my rpms are at 1300 at idle.
have a 98 rodeo, with a V6 & Auto trans. have an intermittent problem - as I am driving engine will occasionally drop to idle speed and then pick back up to driving speed. Engine keeps running smoothly, just at idle speed.
CEL does not come on / no codes
Replaced Throttle Position Sensor - and thought I had found the problem, but since it is so random, it just didn't happen again for 1 1/2 weeks.
I have determined that I most likely have a bad CV joint - a faint clicking sound while braking that varies with speed that happens with the car in drive, but not in neutral.
I've also found instructions here on how to remove/replace the axle, but I'm wondering if it can be done without separating the tie rod end and removing the ball joint. On other cars I've managed to do this by unbolting the strut, which allowed the hub assembly to flop out enough to be able to slide the axle out of it. Is this possible on the Prius? I have to replace my struts anyway so I was hoping to do it all at once and avoid dealing with potentially frozen suspension components.
I'm battling an odd suspension issue...over the last 5-7,000 miles, I've had a strange vibration issue surface that has varied in intensity depending on speed and road surface. I've had a damaged wheel trued, replaced all four tires and had all four wheels/tires RFV balanced. The vibration has changed but not quite gone away. Instead, it's been joined by an increased vagueness in directional stability (tendency to wander) at highway speed.
Last week, the tech balancing my tires said he felt my right hand front rear control arm bushing was worn. The more I've thought about this, the more I'm wondering if this is what might be the source of this mystery vibration issue. So, I really have two questions?
First, bad front CA rear bushing replaced under warranty? 15,000 miles does NOT seem like an acceptable service life for a suspension bushing? Do these bushings have a history of premature wear and failure, or am I just lucky?
Second, if I do have to replace one or both bushings (left and right pt. no. 5C407183A,) I'd like to ask if the solid bushing (pt. no. 1J0407181) from a Jetta or Beetle will work in a Passat control arm? If I do have to replace the bushing, it might be better to put a more solid piece of rubber in there instead of the flimsier original part.
My car is a 1998 Honda Civic. The left turn signal blinks at double speed when the headlights are off. When the headlights are on, it blinks at half speed. Should I replace the left-sided bulbs? Or the turn signal relay? Or something else? None of the bulbs are out in the front or rear.
One other fact: If the hazards are on with headlight OFF everything blinks in synchrony. If the hazards are on with the headlight ON the front blinkers flash alternating (left-right-left etc).
I picked up an 02' accent, 1.5l that i've been intending to use as a commuter car. Drove fairly well on the way back home, but it seems it's got some low oil pressure issues once it's good an hot. As the oil pressure light will occasionally flicker at idle, mind you the car is near dying too.
Or so I thought, it was also misfiring/stumbling fairly badly,
Pulled all connections, cleaned, dielectric grease on them, fixed some of it. And it turns out the fellow who did the timing belt last didn't exactly remember to put the bolts back on the fuel rail.... Okay, that's fixed now.
Put in a little heavier oil, and no more issues with the light coming on, but I do have some lifter noise it seems like.
As well, the car will not rev past 5k in neutral or under load. Air filter is new, and no obstructions through to the intake manifold.
I'd guess based on the missing bolts here and there, the guy was a bit of a hackjob mechanic and i'm guessing has the belt out a tooth or so.... I can't see anywhere to stick a timing light on to verify ignition timing, how to check the timing belt is straight up? It's a bit of a dog compared to the other accent i've been in. The power band is like 2000-3500 and it just won't climb anywhere past that.
I replaced the timing belt an waterpump at 262,000 miles and ever since the engine makes a loud low pitch noise that varies in pitch depending on the engine speed. I replaced the alternator and it didn't work. I don't know if the power steering pump, a/c compressor or something else is making this awful sound.
View 1 RepliesCamry 2000 CE 102,xxx miles. My car died in Jan 14, after have P0770 for while, only Reverse gear work. The mechanics said the tranny need to re-build. I had him bring the tranny to tranny shop to re-build ($1650), then the code still pop up. Brought it back, they said the ECU needs to be reset. I had the car next day then that code pop up again!
They replaced the Solenoid E. The code is still there. Brought the car back, they took the tranny to rebuild it again. Drive the car for a day, the darn code pop up again, now they blamed on the ECU. Ok my mechanic guy replaced it at my own cost for part ($150) but the code is still there. This time they blamed on the high idle rpm approx. 1600-1800. My mechanic tried to fix the high idle speed so the tranny stop blaming other causes. He cleaned IAC valve, replace O-rings (I don't remember the location of them) then he said whenever he inserted the new ones, they start to crack!
Sometimes I loose the idle speed and the engine stops when I stop the car but it could be started again with full throttle it doesn't happen always it happens from time to time > I changed the MAP, IS actuator and TPS .The fuel pump and filter is new .In rare cases engine stops during driving. How about flash programming the ECU
View 1 RepliesSince having my engine replaced with a newer used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
View 3 Replies1992 camry 4 cylinder ... Since having my engine replaced with a used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
View 4 RepliesI've got a 2000 Suburban 1500 4WD with the Auto 4WD. I'm running into a vibration at highway speeds along with a clicking sound at idle speed which speeds up and slows down with speed. I've discovered the u-joint on the front drive shaft where it connects with the transfer case is worn and has play in it. Could this cause the vibration?
Also, The front drive train spins any time the vehicle is motion, which is to say the front drive shaft spins as the truck goes down the road, correct?
Our Egg will occasionally surge at steady speeds - i.e it will jerk fore and aft with no change in accelerator pedal settings. This is an intermittent problem that seems worse when ambient temperatures are low. It isn't yet annoying enough to warrant a trip to the dealer (they seem clueless about this car anyway!).
View 12 RepliesI'm trying to diagnose a stumbling condition in a Hyundai Elantra 2008 with 84,000 miles. Occasionally when driving between 25-40 MPH, the car will shudder/stumble - almost like the engine is trying to shut off. However, it keeps on driving after a few seconds.
I cleaned the throttle body - it was quite dirty - but the problem continues to occur.
I didn't see anything related on several searches.
2003 hyundai santa fe 2.4l ... When driving on highway speeds of 65 miles hour, I take foot of the accelerator and I put it back on to gain speed , it starts jerking or bagging. Also in the city when I press accelerator seems to have no power. I have no codes or check engine light on, what could it be?
View 2 Replies2013 Elantra has occasionally high engine revs at low speed. No check engine light. Transmission is not slipping .... Just high engine revs in traffic at low speed ( under 40 mph).
View 10 RepliesOur 1999 automatic Rav 4 (157,000 mi) occasionally won't accelerate from a full stop or from a low, in-town speed. You step on the accelerator and the engine just flutters at low rpm, stuttering. If you drop it into neutral and start revving it will eventually "catch" and be fine. Very dangerous when entering roadways. We have a new timing belt, cleaned up throttle plate, new sparks, water pump, oxygen sensor.
View 1 RepliesRecently a couple issues have started with my car, and I'm wondering if they are known.
1) The footwell lights will sporadically switch to full bright for a few seconds. This is really annoying, especially when driving at night.
2) The wiper speed will occasionally slow down, and I'll have to turn them off and on again to fix them. (note, I mean the actually speed of the swipe, not the delay. on the normal speed, not fast, not intermittent, the wipers will physically slow down).
Both are annoying, and I'm hoping they aren't indicative of a larger problem.
I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee 2001 with about 150,000 miles. About every other day my car will shut off while I'm stopped at a light, stop sign, etc. The strange thing is that the radio and lights (stuff controlled by the battery I assume) does not turn off with the engine. It seems the frequency with which this happens has stayed about the same, and I haven't been too worried until yesterday when I went to start my car and it would not start. It just kept revving and seemed like it was very close to starting.
I opened the hood and saw a lot of corrosion on the battery and luckily I had a coke in the car. After pouring some coke and wiping away the corrosion, the car started up. I have had no problems since I did this yesterday. But like I said, my car engine seems to turn off without warning so it could happen next time I drive. If these two problems could be linked, that is the corrosion on the battery could have caused both the car not starting and the engine shutting off when the car is idling. I took to a mechanic about a month ago and they couldn't find anything wrong with it and, of course, it didn't shut off when they drove it.