Bmw - 325 :: 1995 - Getting EEP-2 Error At Start Up At Cold
Mar 20, 2011
I have a '95 bmw 325i. After leaving overnight, as the weather gets cooler (live in PA) on startup I get an EEP-2 error across my dash and none of my dash electronics work. My speedometer dial works only. It seems as the weather or the car warms up, upon restart all functions return. Needless to say it never works in winter but I drive it rarly then anyway. My local dealer wants $130 just to put on diagnostics machine then start charging or replacing my dash. Dash was replaced by that dealer 10K miles ago by previous owner. Dealer says (on phone message) he doesn't know what the error means. I used to write diagnostic code for jets and know somebody wrote that code for some error. That it works fine when warm and dry (kind of like me) makes me think a capacitor or relay is sticking (like every other contact has in this car). The internet crowd hasn't cracked it and most others have ended up spending $1000 or more to replace.
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1995 vw Jetta 110K miles.. My car has a hard time starting in the mornings or when it sits idly for a while (when I park overnight) . On any bright and sunny day, it's like the car is brand new - starts with no problems at all. Tried several mechanics and none of them have been able to diagnose the problem. To make it simple, cold outside - car will not start, warm/hot outside car will start.
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I have a '95 pontiac grand AM with about 208,000 miles on it. About a week ago, i noticed it was getting harder to start when the engine is cold. When the engine has warmed up, it starts up right away, however, the engine begins to sputter and sounds as if it is going to die. The engine still sputters while driving and the car begins to jolt back and forth. When I come to a stop, the car sounds as if its going to shut off. Today, I started the car and it was sputtering so I turned it off and then wasn't able to start it for about 40 mins. I let the car sit for about 20 mins and then tried it, started right up. What could be causing the sputtering and engine throbbing? What's wrong?
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I have cleaned the fuel injectors, put in new spark plugs and new spark plug wires. What else I can do. The only time it starts easily is when it's very hot. If I leave it off for just 5 minutes, it will start up quickly. And a few times, when it is dead cold it will start on the first turn. All other times I have to crank it for what seems like minutes. I'm killing batteries and starters on a regular basis.
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1995 Cadillac DeVille Base 8Cyl 4.9L - Transmissions & Drivetrains check vehicle soon, error code p039 TCC engagement Torque Converter Clutch. I looked up what error code p039. How to correct the problem.
The problem I think is the torqure converter sensor or pcm = Powertrain Control Module / prom = Programable Read Only Memory is not working or sending the single to the computer.
The trans does not slip and drives great. Is there a chip or module I can purchase if so where. How can I find out how to repair myself if possible.
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I have a 95 Ford mustang GT. When it is cold outside (Below 40 ish) it starts for about 1 second, dies abd the second time starts fine. has check engine light for lean exhaust. vacume pressure fine and been using injector cleaner but no improvement. replaced spark plug/ wires pcv valve.
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I own a 2008 Honda Fit 5sp manual with 95,000 miles and have had noticed that the car will stall in cold weather. When stopping, I push the clutch in and take my foot off the gas to apply the brake. When the car stops the rpms go to zero and the car stalls. It has no problem starting again but will do this consistently until the engine is hot. It has also stalled on particularly cold/rainy days while the car is moving (over 30mph).
I can prevent the car from stalling by revving the engine, but I would need a third foot to do this while stopping. The check engine light is off. I took it to the dealer who has not been able to reproduce the problem and says it's operator error that is causing the engine to stall.
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My 95 explorer heater only blows out cold air. I have topped off the antifreeze and just replaced the thermostat. The engine operating temperature is very cold, it won't even come up to the first mark. It is very cold here in Utah but I still can't imagine why the engine won't heat up.
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Recently, my 1995 Bonneville SSE randomly will stall. No hesitating, no surging, no rough running, just DIE. This happens while driving, stopped at traffic light, warm / cold, Whenever the mood stikes it!
It always (so far) starts right back up. So far it has not tripped a code or caused any service lights to stay on. I've cleaned the battery posts and don't know what else to do.
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95 Land Cruiser, air conditioner starts out cold, it has freon and then blows hot after the engine gets hot.
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I have a 95 ford f350 when u run it with the heat on the truck temp gauge says its overheating the heat will go from nice and hot to ice cold as soon as the temp gauge goes up to the red. I replaced the thermostat also checked for coolant leak cant find any but truck has strong anti freeze smell and the radiator keeps going low on coolant.
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My 1995 Toyota Corolla DX with 180,000 miles is missing. It was missing intermittently, especially when idling and cold, and especially when I drove short distances to run errands and then restarted it. It got to the point where it was missing even when warm, and would stall out when idling (always restarted eventually). I took it in to a shop, and they replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition coil (which was fried) and the distributor cap and rotor.
All of the low speed and idling problems are solved. However, it now misses intermittently when I drive on the highway, only when giving the car gas at speeds of 45 mph or higher. It doesn't miss when I am coasting, regardless of speed, and doesn't miss at all under 45 mph. This car drives too well under 45 to be headed to the scrap yard yet.
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We have owned a 95 Camry V6 for 20 years and it has always been reliable. However, several days ago, the car started to have its first engine performance issue. When we start the engine cold, there was rough idle/engine lope. If it was warmed up for about 5-10 minutes, the car was fine for the entire day. but during this rough idle, the car jerked slightly as well if i press on the gas.
Since the symptom began, I took it to local shop A and they replaced all the spark plugs, pcv valve and air filter which did not solve the rough idle/looping problem. The rough idle continued, and few days later, I was unable to start the engine though it cranks. (at least that's what I think it does). Had it towed to shop B and they've replaced oil pump, which they thought to be the problem. I took it home, and the next morning I found myself unable to start the car.
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My truck is a 1995 Explorer 4.0 150,000 miles, 5 speed.
Problem - Rough idle : when cold it's worse and will stall and choke a little. When warmed up it just has a rough idle but will not stall and stays at a pretty constant RPM. It's very tolerable when warmed up but still not right. It drives fine once off idle. No black smoke that I can see. Power may be just a little off but I would not bet on it. MPG seems about normal but haven't been on a long enough trip since problem started to tell for sure. Also longer than normal cranking on occasion.
Diagnostics so far : Fuel pressure is at 32 PSI, vacuum off regulator it's at 40 PSI. Not sure about key on only as I don't trust the autozone loaner gauges. You have to fiddle with it each time before it will read. Leak down after 30 minutes was about 4 PSI
No Check engine light ever. KOEO test shows no hard or on demand codes, I get the 111 pass. From CM I get 336 and 45.
336 is EGR related and my looks pretty rusty. I put a vacuum pump on it while running and the EGR held vacuum but had no effect at all on idle, I was expecting it to get worse as I opened the EGR so it may be stuck.
Searched high and low for vacuum leaks by ear, visual and with starting fluid all turned up nothing.
Actions so far : Replaced plugs, wires, IAC, and fuel filter. Cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body plus ran lucas fuel injector cleaner through it.
Next steps : I've got the EGR but it's so rusty I am sure I'll break the tube it bolts to plus I don't know it that alone will cause the rough idle. Will the DPFE sensor and/or EVR create a rough idle yet not turn on the CEL?
Thought about changing the fuel pump and/or regulator but the numbers are not terrible. Agree?
Thought about changing the intake gaskets but don't see any leaks.
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I have a 95 powerstroke as a daily so I realize the common oil leak issues and where to start. Today at work I came in to our 2002 7.3 with a puddle of oil underneath of it. It's a service truck I'm the mechanic and I honestly after filling it could not get it to leak I tried everything. A guy had come in and started it after sitting for the holiday and it sat and idled and leaked probably 2-3 quarts. They shut it down and I came in I added probably 1 1/2 gallons to get it full again. Has almost 300k after I had gotten there they had already warmed the truck up and it had cooled back down. It's coming from the driver side (axle frame rail and leaf spring) are all covered in oil but no obvious signs when shut off idling under load anything of an oil leak. I tried everything to get it to leak and not a drop.
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I have experienced ESP error when trying to start the car. When I turn the key, the engine does not crank, instead, the ESP error shows up on MFD. I have to wait for several minutes until the EPC light is on. Then I can start the car with the ESP and EPC light off.
Here is the video: [URL] ....
From the forums, I have already had my battery replaced and still the problem persists. I take my car to local garage which cannot troubleshoot the cause. They just say it might be the relay or even the ECU. So, wonder if there is any clue?
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I was trying to install my MDI in a parking lot where I could get some space. I thought the radio fuse was inside the panel by my drivers side door. I pulled those fuses out one by one, the I realized it was under the hood. I'm not done swapping pins, but I need to drive the car and it won't start. I didn't put the radio back in. My MFI says ESP error when I turn the car on. I have a micro can with me, but it's having a hard time finding the interface.
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1995 Mazda Protege 1.5 .... My car will not start sometimes. It is not all the time but I just wanted to know anything that it could be causing the problem. I cleaned the throttle body. that is all i have done to the car so far.
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I got a 95 geo metro with a 1.3 that i cant figure out whats wrong with it. I got gas to the lines leading to the throttle body, but theres no gas coming through injector. I cant hear the fuel pump kick over either, which makes me wonder if the pump isnt putting out proper pressure. What's going on?
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Why my 1995 740i only blows out cold on the drivers side and warm on the pass side? this happens when i put the a/c on.
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I had the two wiring harnesses replaced with used ones, by Volvo at Christmas time on my 1995 940 Turbo. Things were heavenly and reliable until a week ago. My wife phoned me to tell me she could not start the car. I went and tried. It would crank, but not catch. I tried holding the pedal to the floor, but no luck. I had it towed to Volvo, but on the Monday, it started and it did all week long.
I drove it Saturday morning on errands. It was fine. My son moved it out onto the street and I went to use it an hour later and it wouldn't start. After about five hours, I tried it and it started rough but with gas it normalized.
I've asked whoever uses it in the family to give it gas in Park, before moving to get everything working. As the car is only driven once or twice a week, now that winter is over, I haven't tested my theory.
I really like the car, but my wife and I have to have confidence that it will start when we need it to. We have always had the vehicle maintained. I have wondered if it has anything to do with fuel injectors, but readily admit to not knowing anything.
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