Bmw - 323 :: Intermittent Start Usually Occurs When Restart Within 5 To 10 Minutes After Turning It Off
Sep 12, 2011
I have a 2000 BMW 323i with 140,000 miles on it, which has intermittent starting problems. This usually occurs after trying to restart the car within 5 to 10 minutes after turning it off. After several attempts and 10 to 15 minutes, the car does always restart. When the problem occurs, the engine does not turn over at all, but the electrical system seems to work. The dealer has been unable to duplicate the problem.
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So yesterday car did not start after 15 min from turning off .... Waited about 45 min. And it started(during the time it would not start i checked battery and its connections checked its voltage which was at 12.8 volts ... I had power in the car.
My headlights were as bright as ever and did not dim or flicker as i tried to turn on the car.. Did not start in those 45 min. to about 1 hour. Today happened again twice.
I banged on the starter both times and it worked like a charm both times ...... So I am thinking its gotta be the starter ... I run to autozone and ask them to test my starter and they said that it was good....
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I just recently purchased a 2011 RX 350 AWD SFP w/ ebony interior for the wife. She loves the car and it drives like a dream.
However lately there's been a weird single beep that occurs every 15 minutes or so. I've tried replacing the key fob battery, making sure no interior/exterior lights are on, and making sure all doors/sunroof are closed. I tried locking the door to see if it works as well but no dice. It doesn't affect anything in anyway as everything is operating as it should.
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I've been having an intermittent stall-out problem with my 2003 F250 5.4L (160k miles). The truck has been retired from DD to farm duty, hauling, and towing only. Over the past 9 months, the truck has stalled-out on me 3x while driving. I will be driving along sometimes at highway speed, sometime slower, and everything will die: no PS, lights go on all over the dashboard. It will not restart right away. I have to wait at least 20-30min to restart it and then everything is fine for several weeks and hundreds of miles.
There are no codes and I have been unable for reproduce it/cause it to happen purposely. My mechanic has changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor, and checked the fuel rail pressures. I also checked all the harnesses and fuses, cleaned the battery terminals, looked for vacuum leaks, and gave it a good look-over. The following are new: battery, IAC valve, fuel filter. After searching the forum I also pulled the fuse box and examined the integral fuel pump relay: it and the board looked perfect, no bulges, cracks, discoloration, etc.
My mechanic thinks this is more likely an ignition problem than a fuel delivery problem.
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Tis the first of "Squeaks and Creeks" from me. Not really the best thing to hear, sitting at ~24K miles. Anyways, until (if) i can get a sound clip, I have this metallic rattle that only occurs about 1-3 mins after i start the car. This just started happening yesterday, and nothing out of the ordinary happened.
I start the engine, hear a raspy rattle from what sounds like under the engine, and if i give it some throttle it increases some, but not to the point where it sounds like something is banging around. It goes away after a few minutes so it could be anything. Shifts are still smooth, driving and getting on the gas does not fix nor make it worse, either in neutral or actually rolling. It simply goes away with 3 minutes time or so. It seems to have a limit for how much 'rattle' it gives off, and its something I can accept.
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Started my 2005 f250 powerstroke, idle about 15 min and died like I turned key off. Hooked up scan guage had no flp, fmp or syc ipr and icp was good. Checked ficm relay and fuses and all checked good. Next morning went out and it started flp, fmp, sycall good. Idled about 1 hr and died again same bad readings. Messed with relays and wiring to ficm, it started and died after 2 min. No start again, next morning still no flp, fmp. Went out again in afternoon and everything was good again, I did nothing to it from am to pm, was loading my pistol they shoot horses don't they. I have new batterys, I changed the ficm power card last summer for low fmp. When it is running everything looks and sounds good no miss.
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For about a year and a half I have had an "undiagnosable" noise that started as an intermittent metallic buzzing and has evolved into a constant whirring/grinding noise. The tempo of the noise increases when accelerating; occurs at all speeds and at idle. People say they know when I am approaching they can hear my car from about two blocks away. My regular 20 year mechanic checked transmission, replaced timing belt (at 65K; now have about 74K); all idler pulleys; checked alternator; He thinks is is the AC drive pulley on the compressor; Hyundai dealership did not know what it is; laymen have suggested is is a power steering pump, reservoir issue. Power steering fluid level is fine. Otherwise, the performance of the car is fine.
Engine is 3.5L V6; 2004, about 74+K
See more at: [URL] ....
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I have Jeep Liberty 2002 with 100300 miles. I having starter problem and the starter was replaced with a new one. Still I am having the same problem, the car can only re-start 30 minutes or more after I shut it off. The mechanic stated that he does not know what it is causing the problem.
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I get a double warning beep that only occurs when turning onto a new street. This is a different beep than the lane departure beeps, blind spot monitoring beeps and the forward collision beeps. All of these are uniquely different beeps from sound and number. This double beep that occurs when turning onto a new street does not have any associated warning message that is displayed when it occurs.
2015 Azera Limited
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I have a 94 Sonoma SLS, V6/auto that has a weird problem of not restarting after I stop for fuel or at the house for a few minutes. The engine will crank normally but acts like it isn't getting fuel. I have had the fuel pump replaced already and I just replaced the fuel pump relay. I additionally replaced the coolant sensor(long shot there) when I replaced the radiator due to a leak.
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My 1986 B2000 problems started when the engine would run for a few minutes and not restart. After it sat a while, it would restart.
Through out the process of seeking a fix, I have replaced the fuel pump, coil, distributor cap, rotor, pick-up coil in the distributor, condenser, and spark plug wires and coli wire.
Currently, there is no spark out of the coil wire feeding the distribute.There are 12 volts at the positive and negative side of the coil terminals when the key is in the “run” position.There is about 10 volts to each coil terminal when the engine is cranking over.
I have tried using the old coil and the old pick-up coil in the distributor, but with no luck.
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My 2005 Chevy Impala is taking a long time to crank. Now after 10 minutes or so of either idiling or driving, the car stalls out. I am able to restart it. Replaced the battery and no change. Lights are not getting dim in any way so I figure it's not the alternator. Could it be a bad starter?
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2006 Chrysler Sebring Convertible. This car is driving me crazy. Last summer, we drove it from Denver to San Diego. The trip was perfect but within minutes after we arrived the car would not restart. It has been towed to mechanics 5 times and had the starter replaced twice, the battery, pndlr switch each replaced and of course they always find various other things that are needed that don't have anything to do with starting the car. It will work for awhile and then not start again. The last 2 times, we sent it to the mechanic, they jumped it and could not duplicate the situation after several days trying and sent it home. We thought it might be the radio that was installed a few years ago so we removed it, but now the car won't start again.
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My 1999 Yukon will start up, run for about 5 minutes at idle then die. Then it will not start again till the next day.
I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel line at the fuel filter. It started up, and the pressure gauge went up to 54. I gave it some gas and pressure goes up to about 60 then back to 54 at idle. I sat and watched it for a bit then it died after about 5 minutes and the gauge went below 50 to about 48. I immediately tried to start again and the pressure actually drops a little while cranking to 45 and stayed there.
Whats weird is when I first started it up, I can hear the pump come on and it kicked the pressure up from 0 to 54. Then after dieing, I don't think I can hear the pump come on, and the pressure does not go up at all. I have a feeling tomorrow it will do the same thing, start up after sitting for awhile, then die after 5 minutes.
Does this sound like a fuel pump going bad? or does it sound like an electrical issue with the fuel pump?
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I drive a 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix. Yesterday, I drove to the store about 5 minutes away. When I went back to my car 10 minutes later, it wouldn't start. Wouldn't turn over, no clicking, just silence. Finally had to leave it there. When I came back 1 1/2 hours later, it started fine. Same thing happened to me this morning. Drove it 5 minutes, now it won't start. What could it be?
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I've got a 2000 VW Lupo 1.4 automatic (essentially a small version of a VW Polo, sold in Europe). It's got 65000miles on it. The car starts up just fine the first time, summer or winter. If you shut off the motor after a short time, 5 or 10 minutes, restarting it can be a problem. If this happens a third time, starting will be even more difficult. If you drive for awhile restarting is no problem, the pattern starts over again. I've replaced the battery, plugs, gas filter, had the distributor looked at. Restarting became marginally better.
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96 teg 1.8 non vtech after a while it will lose spark some times it runs for a few days then loses spark but will start up with in 10 min sometimes it just just stalls out and loses spark but restarts with in 10 minutes.
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when car dies driving or idle- will not start for appx 30min after- cranks over immediately like it wants to, but will not actually start for about 30minutes... is this a sensor?
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Fuel injected 429 (same as 460). Will run for 10-30 minutes then stall and not restart until 5-60 minutes later. Has fuel pressure at rail.
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my daughter has a 91 volvo 240 with a 4cyl and auto. roughly 100000 miles. it starts and runs fine but after driving it, if it is shut off for less than 30 min, then she tries to start it again, it stalls immediately. she can keep her foot on the gas slightly and drive it the distance of a parking lot, the car will run fine and not stall. i was curious if a tune up would fix this or if there is a smaller fix such as a sensor.
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My sons car is a 96 accord. For some reason, it's developed a new problem. After 15 minutes of driving it will stall, and it will not restart. It seems to be if it's left to sit long enough, it will restart(it does crank, just not turnover). That period of time it needs to sit seems more then 10-15 minutes, but we are not exactly certain. After several hours, it seems to start and run fine. We had it towed to the mechanic, they where not able to reproduce it. It's not overheating, the temp gauge stays below half. No check engine light is on.
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