Bmw - 320 :: 1999 - Fires Up For 30 Seconds Or So Then Cuts Out
Jan 8, 2012
My bmw started fine.then as i was driving it cut out. it took 5 minutes to get it started.now it fires up for 30 seconds or so then cuts out.
today it wouldnt start at all and i cant hear the fuel pump priming when I turn the ignition on ... 1991 bmw 320sei ....
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My 99 jeep grand Cherokee 4.7 v8 4x4 will not start after 2 to 3 short trips. it starts up fine in the morning when the engine is cold but driving for a while while and I stop somewhere and shut the engine down for a few minutes it will not restart.. after I wait 10 to 15 min it start up ok.. Next when I'm driving on the highway, after 10-20 mins of driving, the engine stalls for 5-10 secs. and fires back up..I inspected all connections and the starter which were ok but I did find that the starter is soaked with oil dripping from the valve covers.. Could the oil be the problem..? Even causing the stalling out on the highway..?
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So I had a reman 7.3 and 4r100 dropped in my 03 excursion.. since then the engine fires up every single time.. ONLY when the truck sits for 2 days i have this issue where the truck fires right up, runs for 4 or 5 seconds then stalls out.. It starts back up on first try and idles rough 10 seconds then it runs great.. If it only sits 1 day i dont have the issue if it sits 1.5 days it will try to stall out and catches itself from stall out and doesn't stall about 3/4 of the time. The mechanic who is a reputable diesel mechanic cant figure it out.. they called swamps and they also were unsure.
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Just had the timing belt done and water pump installed last week and just now noticed this oil leak. I can't figure out where it would be coming from . 10 seconds after I fired up the car it starts coming out.
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My 96 Town and Country won't start. It turns over and fires for about 1-2 seconds max. After that it only turns over, no fire. The key sign/symptom is that the odometer and PRNL do not light up. This is very sporadic. Sometimes months and months apart. I unhook the battery in an effort to reset the computer. Sometimes it works in 1/2 hr. Sometimes several hours. So I don't think it resets but I still do it anyway. I have replaced the computer but no luck. Could it somehow be the dash cluster?
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Alright I thought changing a fuel filter was fool proof but I changed the fuel filter in my 2001 escape v6. awd and now for some reason it wont start right up like it used too before the filter change. It cranks for a few seconds then fires up and runs perfectly fine it sits for a few hours same issue where as before the filter change it fired up fine every time, what did I do wrong. 2001 ford escape...
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So it often just cranks for 15 seconds before it fires. I put the fuel pressure guage on it and you turn the key on but don't engage the starter it goes to 30 psi then back to 0 in a 2 second time frame. It then stays at zero. when you engage the starter pressure slowly goes up and it starts running while running its a consistent 60 psi.
I presume its the fuel regulator but why does it not go up to 60 psi and why does it just stop with the KOEO? Is it reasonable to just replace the regulator? or should I be replacing the fuel pump to at the same time? I will be doing this from under the truck since there is a lot of hard mounted equipment in the bed.
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I have the notorious PO171 and PO174 codes on my 2003 5.4L that come back whenever I erase them. I cannot figure out the problem. Whenever I start the truck it cranks for 3-4 seconds before it finally fires, then rpm's are very low, then they finally pick up. I have noticed a loss in power as well. I have completed a full tune-up (spark plugs, coils, boots, filters, etc.)
I have checked the vacuum and PCV lines numerous times, I have yet to find a leak. MAF appears clean. I am running a K&N CAI setup. O2 sensors a good, replaced the gas cap. The only other problem I can see is a bad PCV valve? I hope it isn't a manifold gasket. The truck has been very well maintained and still looks brand-new throughout at 250,000 miles.
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I have my VRT to the point where it should be able to be started and run but it just cuts off after about 2 seconds.
Here are a few videos I took while trying to start it. To me or sounds like an immobilizer issue but I don't know for sure.
Please ignore my mess of an engine bay... that's only temporary while it try to get this thing running.
[URL] ....
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I have a 2001 Plymouth neon and the coolant fan cuts on and off about every 30 seconds .
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I have a 2003 Pontiac Vibe that was new to me in 2011. Pushing 180k+ miles. It was subject to the airbag recall last summer and has been repaired by the GM guys. But last fall I was driving at around 70mph with the cruise on and came up to a speed change so I tapped the brakes to end the cruise and EVERYTHING went dark in the car- radio, dashboard, a/c, the electrical charging plug- EVERYTHING for about 5-7 seconds. Then everything came back on and I continued as normal. My mechanic was dumbfounded. Figured one time freak thing so no worries.
No issues since until this morning. On the drive to work I had the high beams on as it was 5:15 in the morning on a state highway in the country. Came up on a red light so flipped high beams off. EVERYTHING goes dark for 5-7 seconds, comes back on, and I continue as normal. Obviously I'm getting a little concerned at the randomness, not to mention that losing power at 70mph is a little disconcerting. Mechanic is dumbfounded but willing to tear up the dash and steering column and see if he can't recreate the issue.
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My beloved Hyundai Santa Fe,2006 model's engine light came up. The engine starts and than about 10 seconds after cuts out straight away. What to do. I have always taken care of this car and being serviced well.
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My 2007 Hyundai will randomly after being parked for 3+ hours will stall (engine shakes for two seconds then cuts off) when attempting to reverse. This only happens when the car is turned on then trying to reverse. It will NOT do this when driving and later putting the vehicle into reverse. Additionally when the weather is extremely cold or hot this becomes more frequent. If the car can be shifted into reverse without stalling within 5 seconds it will NOT stall. To solve the problem I have to either keep trying to turn on the car and shifting to reverse until it doesn't stall out (sometimes 3 tries or more) or putting the car into neutral and pushing. I have to stress this only happens after having the vehicle sit for more than several hours even a day and is random. One day no matter how many times I tried turning the car on and trying to reverse and repeating it would not stop stalling out. I had to wait till the parallel parked car in front of me moved so I could get out of my spot. What is wrong with my car? I have taken it to Porter Hyundai TWICE and they cannot determine the problem even after scanning for codes.
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When trying to drive my car out of the garage this weekend, it started backing up and then it stopped. It would also not do anything when I put it in drive. Next, the engine cut out. It would only stay on for a few seconds when starting it up again. It continued to do this. I had the car brought to my local mechanic who specializes in foreign cars. He called me today and said my car will not talk to the computer. He stated it must be the hybrid battery. He told me I need to take it to a Toyota dealer. My question is how to know if this battery is truly out and there is not another problem? I have a 2001 Prius.
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I drive a 2006 Lincoln Mark LT and recently had a new heater core installed, but now when I try to drive it, it cuts off on me once I get out of the driveway. It starts back up fine, but then cuts again seconds after I try to drive. When I start the car it idles fine. I could have it idling for 10 minutes plus and have no issues, but once I shift it into gear and begin to back out of the drive way it shuts down again.
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Just installed a new jvc kd-s48 stereo and it cuts out for a half a second every couple seconds. Kind of like a scratched cd but it's with the tuner and mp3. The sound "stumbles" and then it very quickly raises back up. it sort of seems like if I wiggle the wires in the back it'll stop. I will check all connections, I use female and male spade connectors and then shrink wrap over each connection. Could it be a faulty deck?
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My brother (deceased ) had a girlfriend (very manipulative person ) who has left a 99 Metro 3 cyl sitting since 2012 ,now it wont run ,it will fire if you pour gas into the throttle body How hard is it to get to the fuel pump on that thing ?
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My 1999 F550 7.3L has been hard to start when it's cold outside since I got it with about 150k on it (it has 200k on it now). Last year we tested the glow plugs and sure enough 5 of 8 were bad. So they are all new now. It worked a little with the hard start, but not much.
When it's cold out the engine will crank forever amongst clouds of smoke and the smell of unburnt diesel fuel and sometimes eventually start, followed by smoke and sputtering until the cylinders clear out. However, what I have noticed recently is that it will sometimes start in the first few revolutions. It seems like the best way to start cold is as follows:
1. Let the glow plugs heat up for a minute or two,
2. Crank engine for 10 or 15 seconds and stop,
3. Crank engine again, but stop if it doesn't catch in the first couple of revolutions,
4. Repeat step 3 until engine starts.
When it starts using this method, it's immediate and it's running smoothly immediately with minimal smoke. This is making me think there's a computer or sensor issue, but I have no codes.
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This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
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I got a friend of mine that owns a 2000 F350 7.3 with around 280,000 miles. He said that the past 2 days its been turning over longer then normal before it fires. Once started, engine runs same as it always has. No sputtering or hesitations, idles fine, etc. However today, he drove to work, shut it off, then went to start it back up 10 or so mins later and now it will only turn over. Said he's getting fuel and compression is good. Unfortunately i dont know much about Diesel engines.
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My 2011 f-350 6.2l cold starts hard, it cranks through 2 cycles sometimes before it fires, then it might stall. Sometimes it stalls if I put it into drive or reverse before its warmed up. It has also misfired on one or several cylinders during startup. It has also misfired while driving. It has never stalled when driving. I have replaced the canister purge valve, I have done a full tune up with all factory plugs. All with no change to how it starts. My next step is a Pcv valve, I have one coming from ford today.
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