!) Could an "on-and-off" metallic sounding rattle underneath the car mean the catalytic converter is going "bad?" 2) Could an after market replacement work as well as the factory made part?3) If so...any recommended manufacturers or suppliers?4) Would it be totally stupid to consider a salvaged CC?5)
View 5 RepliesI have just finished changing head gasket. I started up the engine works fine. But I hear a little clik sound form the converter. I put it in gear, but it can't move either forward or backward. It ran 2-3 liters of oil out of the converter when I took the engine out. I have filled new oil in the gearbox but not in the converter, dosnt it came form the gearbox into the converter?Is there air in the converter or what's wrong?
it is a F150 4x4 4.6 1997 automatic.
My wife and I have a 1997 Honda Accord, roughly 260k miles. A few months back the Check Engine light came on, diagnostic came back with P0420, typically indicating the catalytic converter is shot. Who am I to argue, it was an factory part. So we replaced that with an inexpensive Magnaflow converter. (don't have the part number on me); this was 5 days ago. Today my wife takes the car in for inspection. Check Engine is still on with the same code. The guy at the testing station begins laughing at my wife when she says we only spent about 200 in parts and labour on the new converter. I'm inclined to think that since we already replaced the converter that I should be looking somewhere else (O2 sensor maybe). But I also don't want to just start throwing parts at it. Do I have a case here? I would really prefer not to spend $1000 on a car that old with that many miles on it just to pass inspection.
View 4 RepliesI have a 97 F-150 Supercab XLT, 4X4, 4.6L W, 4r70W with electronic Overdrive, manual shift transfer case. I need to remove and replace the Torque Converter. My question is: Would it be easier to drop the transmission and transfer case or pull the engine loose and move it forward to get at the torque converter?
It is shifting in and out of overdrive to third, and then back into OD, and back into third erratically and for no apparent reason. It is also slipping intermittently in first from a dead stop and locking all at once, shifts hard then. When I first drive it the OD light does not flash and the OD off switch works, once it warms up good it starts shifting erratically and the OD off switch starts flashing, then the off switch does not work.
I did not get any codes returned on autozones little scanner and am taking it to the ford dealer for a full scan today to see if there might be any other damage or cause for this problem. The problems started when I blew a hose to the trans cooler in the radiator and lost fluid. I didn't notice the blown hose until it started slipping and pulled over, replaced the hose and fluid. Had problems ever since. I have cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the ABS sensor in the differential so far.
I have a 02' f150 v6 67,000 miles. When I come to a stop, the trans shudders abit like the converter is still locked up. It then goes to stall in a few seconds. this does not happen all the time, fluid is clean. I understand there is a simple fix for this, or is this normal?
View 1 RepliesThe wife's 1997 Mountaineer, 5.0 with all the bells and whistles, Every time she stops, wet, dry, snow, any type of surface, the ABS brakes activate just as she comes to a stop. Heavy pressure, light pressure, doesn't matter. She says it sounds like a cow mooo-ing. 138,000 miles. New pads and rotors were installed 40K miles ago (about 3 years ago) she doesn't drive much but the noise is aggravating. No check engine light, or ABS light. Seems to come on when it gets below 10mph consistently. The Engine light comes on occasionally with a catalytic converter fault, replaced the converters but still get the light. I don't think it is related.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2002 SuperCrew 4x4 that makes a squealing sound that starts at 3000 rpm and slowly goes away as it approaches 4000 rpm. It does this when you are in park or in gear. I believe the torque converter is going bad, but just want to make sure before I tear it all down.
View 1 RepliesI have a '99 F150 w/ the 5.4 and 4R70W, with 226K miles. I am experiencing what I believe is a TC shudder after the tranny shifts into OD between approximately 40-50mph. This sounds like a pretty common problem with this particular tranny, but some of what I've read describes the shudder as feeling akin to driving over rumblestrips, but what I'm experiencing is a very sharp, bucking. Is this how the TC shudder feels, or am I actually dealing with a misfire. Btw, I did completely change the tranny fluid with Mercon V, and added a friction modifier, but no change. I also read that the TC unlocks when the brake lights come on, so I tried lightly hitting the brakes when the bucking was occuring, but it continued.
View 14 RepliesI have an 4cyl 02 Camry LE and I'm getting an P0420 trouble code. I've changed Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor that comes off the front Cat Converter and the rear 02 Sensor that is off of the rear Cat and I'm still getting that code, so as a result I'm changing the front converter that comes off the exhaust manifold. Now my questions is:
#1. Do I have to put any type of compound or anti-sieze on the new gasket that goes over the cylinder head studs?
#2. Do I have to put any compound or anti-sieze on the O-Ring at the bottom of the front Cat. as well before I re-assemble everything?
I have a 1999 GA GT 3.4L with 70,000 miles on it and about 2 months ago I started to notice that the temp gauge was reading higher then it used to and when this happened the tranny would want to slip a little bit on me in Drive (but only when I would change from park to Drive or Reverse to Drive). I now am starting to notice that the engine wants to continue to heat up even after I turn the car off and acceleration seems down a little, all of this is making me think and has been suggested to me that my Cat Converter could be clogged up, not letting exhaust gasses escape as much as they need to.
View 14 RepliesI have just had my transmission rebuilt and torque converter replaced. Now the torque converter will not lock up. It turns 2700rpms @ 55 mph! The shop says it maybe my speedometer causing this because it is stuck at 20 mph. was this way before it went into the shop. I'm replacing the stepper motors next week when the parts get here.
View 14 RepliesI recently had my catalytic converter replaced with a non-OEM cat. The check engine light came on and a different shop (different from the shop that replaced the cat) said that it will keep coming on because I had the cat replaced with a non-OEM cat.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 VT GTI with 155K miles on it. It is in very good condition. I have loved the car except for the high maintenance costs that typically seem to be associated with VWs.
I found out this week after my check engine light came on that the car needs a new catalytic converter and a new new secondary air pump.
Let's assume that this diagnosis is correct and the repair is accurate for the sake of this posting (and I have no doubt it is). In other words, I don't want to get my question derailed on that issue.
The car has new Michelin tires on it and runs well. The problem is that it will fail the state emissions test I am required to take next December, and I will either be forced to have the car repaired or will not be able to get updated license tabs (isn't that sweet?!).
It seems that I have a few options:
1. Get the repair done (ouch) and keep driving the car for a few more years. Repair cost is about what the market value of the car is (from what I have seen).
2. Sell the car "as-is" between now and December and see what cash I can get out of it. Any buyer will discount the value of the vehicle based on the repairs needed. Of course, then I'll need a replacement vehicle of some sort.
Torque converter lock V6 vs. V8.
When O took my V8 in for service the dealer gave me a V6 as a loaner. I noticed right away that in 6th gear the torque converter locks up and stays locked until the gas is pushed way down, then, if I push further it shifts down to 5th. On my V8 it does not seem to lock at all and acts like 50's automatic.
It this normal? Can I change the setting at which the torque converter releases the lock? Clearly the 05' V6 has different programming. I have have drive a standard transmission all my life and this is my first automatic and I much rather have that connected feeling between engine and road!
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
How to Replace a Catalytic Converter
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Browse all: Air Intake and Exhaust Guides
I did a sub and amp install on a friends '14 SE with the upgraded stereo with DSP. I ran the line outs off the front channels, like I did with my standard stereo. Should I have ran the line out off the rear channels? I know that they cut off the bass signal to the rear speakers on the standard stereo, and that alters the signal going to the line out. Is the opposite true on the upgraded stereos? Do they cut the bass output on the front channels instead of the rear?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Lincoln Town Car with a single exhaust system, part of/attached to the frontal area of the exhaust "Y" pipe are two lumps with heat shields, the muffler is obvious in the mid-section of the car, but are those "lumps" the catalytic converters, and if so, why two when the older cars had only one?
View 2 RepliesSomeone put sugar in my gas tank so I had it worked on at the Dodge place they replaced my fuel pump..fuel filter cleaned the tank..flushed the lines cleaned my injectors and replaced the plugs..I went to pick it up I barely made it a mile down the road I had no power and a lady flagged me down to tell me to pull over because I had sparks coming from the bottom of my van I looked under the van and the catalytic converter was red like hit coals the Dodge place is telling me its my flex plate? I think they are misdiagnosing the issue because before the sugar issue I had no problems with my van?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 Toyota Prius that is currently in limp mode...
Took it to the dealer for diagnostics and they said the Catalytic Converter has failed...So I went online, bought a new one and replaced it. The symptoms prior the Cat replacement were still there...mpg loss, power loss, and exhaust air was not exiting the end of the pipe but actually leaking out the connection point where the Cat and the manifold met.
So this morning (Kind of Cold) I went out site and started my car. I heard some noise under the car and I noticed that the noise bad been coming from the Catalytic Converter area and there was water dripping off of it.
My guess is that it was just warming up and the water was from the cold. Is it normal?
I have a GLX V6 ...
I own a 2004 Acura RSX that I purchased new nearly 10 years ago. The car currently has 182,000 miles on it. Two years ago (approx. 130,000 miles), I had to replace the catalytic converter and both O2 sensors. This lightened my wallet to the tune of $1,200 (aftermarket franchise, OEM replacement). A few weeks ago, the "check engine" light came on. I used my scanner, and got the dreaded P0420 code, and had it verified by another shop. O2 sensors were OK. What REALLY shocked me was that replacement catalytic converters are only warranted for 5 years/25,000 miles (50k in CA). The first replacement piece lasted 52,000 miles (less than half the miles/years of the original part)
Here are THE QUESTIONS: What killed this catalytic converter? What can I do to prolong the life of this part? My car has the base powertrain that (according to the owner's manual) recommends 87 octane fuel. That's all I've ever used. The mechanic suggested moving up to mid-grade fuel, though he admitted that he wasn't sure.